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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Bil, On the scarfs... simply put, strength and this orientation was found to work best. The false keel and the keelson will be oriented the other way.
  2. Jack, What Carl said.... those of us who are following will wait. Something are more important than a model... Did I just say that? :D
  3. Looks to be going well..... I just noticed, it looks like AL finally changed the cannon. They used to look like some sort of science fiction blaster or something other than a cannon.
  4. Betty, Outside of buildlogs and most are excellent, there's this: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ Third pinned post down, the one by Jack Nastyface might be some help. Maybe not right away but give you an idea of the shapes and reasoning for the blocks.
  5. I wish I could give this a 1,000 likes. Wonderful work... stunning... amazing... gotta' go dig out the thesaurus. And I agree with Augie.. a very fitting tribute to your dad. I'll add though that it's also a fitting tribute to you for sharing the stories and the journey that brought this sub to life for us.
  6. Let us hope that no builder gets hurt or killed in the sorting out of the "stuff".... I shudder to think about the amount of paperwork that would need to be filled out. You're tougher than she is...
  7. Beautiful work, Grant. Limited turning ability my foot... Those stanchions look great.
  8. My apologies, Michael. It looks like the bigger saws are way more expensive. If you don't get an answer from someone here, do a quick search on "proxxon scroll saw" (remove quotes) from the main page. I got a lot links to discussions about Proxxons and also build logs where the saw was mentioned.
  9. Thank you for the "likes" and the comments. I'm sorting out the planking plan. I do want to install the garboard next as that's a odd-sized bit of timber and will provide a reference point. So I'm kind of thinking the rest of this through on the fly... I looked over the Hahn build pics and I'm not sure he's wrong or right. There's some strakes the seem to go to a point.... From the black main wale down, 10 strakes of the wide planking. I'll measure it off at the midpoint of the hull and run a batten. These planks also decrease in thickness and I'll need to figure out how much and how fast the decrease needs to be. There's also the question in my mind about a (for lack of a better word) transition area where the counter meets the transom timbers. One plank comes into that area and appears to have a pretty sharp bend. From the garboard up.. measure from the midpoint of the hull and run probably one batten at the midpoint. The various ANCRE plans I've looked at and various French ships I've seen here on MSW and other places, show a diversity of techniques.. some us stealers and drop planks, others involve spiling. I guess I won't know which is best until I get there....
  10. Jay, I was thinking of the saw for cutting the laths off the slab after making the grooves. I know I've seen a couple of logs around here where the building made some using hand tools. Maybe a fallback position is needed.... ModelExpo (and other places) sell the grating strips in various widths..and then there's the Chuck Grates.
  11. Michael, I don't know what country you are in, but give some thought to buying a regular scroll saw from a hardware/home improvement type of store. They work as well and give you more flexibility as far as the size and type of materials you can cut.
  12. Dr. Per, I like the way you've interpreted this with the wood and stain/paint choices.
  13. Lovely work, Greg. I'm looking forward to the planking.
  14. Matt, Have a look here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Armaments/Building%20the%20Laser%20Cut%20Cannon%20Carriage%20Kit.pdf There's plans at the end for a 12 pdr and a 6 pdr. (and they're in 1:64) If you go here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-armaments-and-cannon.php there's plans for a 3, 6. and 9 pdr. (these plans are in 1:12). Model Expo shows that kit at 1:24.
  15. Jay, What are using for a saw to cut off the laths? If it's table saw, which blade?
  16. Nice work on the capstan, Sam. You might try drill a blind hole in a capstan drum head (a blank) that is the thickness of the final piece. Insert a dowel (glue), then turn the head using the dowel in the chuck with the head standing proud of the chuck. I found that works pretty well then you can file, sand, cut away and not have to worry about the chuck hitting you.. well.. not worry too much.
  17. George, I'm serious about critiques... part of having a log is for other sets of eyes who may see something the builder doesn't. For example, back on page 45, Gianpiero caught something that I missed. I knew the line needed shaping but there were other issues creating that problem. When I looked again, I found what caused the problem and it was where he pointed it out. I do appreciate all comments.
  18. Jay.. The width of the lath between the holes should equal the hole (opening) size. It's pretty much a rule of thumb as I understand it. Some ships had wider laths for strength but the hole (full-size) should be more than 2 1/2" square. Any bigger and the heel of shoe could get caught in it. Given Murphy's Law, that would naturally happen at the worst possible moment.
  19. Port side aft bulwark planked... I'm cleaning up the shop a bit and I'll start on the hull planking. Critiques, laughing out loud, pretty much anything you want to say about it is allowed, as always. I do notice that there's a couple of place that need a touch more sanding, but those places are on hold until after the rest of the hull is planked. Might as well get everything at once....
  20. Stu, Give ModelExpo a call. The corrected manual may be online.
  21. Did you sand the hull first? From my plastic car days, I recall we had to take some 400 grit paper to the body to give some 'tooth'. Otherwise the paint, even primer, flaked off.
  22. I'm thinking she's looking pretty good. I'm not sure about the Swift as I've never built that one, but generally, the deck from side to side is high in the middle and rounded to the sides (camber) and then from fore to aft, it sweeps down to about the middle and then back up (sheer). There's variations and there's also flat decks.
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