mtaylor

Well done on the torp tubes. I guessing that painting is in their future? Although the brass looks nice.... hmm... paint it or polish it.. the Navy dilemma.

The decals make it pop... What Frank said goes for me too.

Looks good, Bill. Are you securing the keel to the drawing? The reason I ask is that in Jig10.jpg, it looks like the stern is off center.

Wow.. I didn't know they made a pure red stain. I think it was Hahn used to use RIT dye. Looks super impressive and better than paint in my opinion.

What Druxey said... What's the worst that can happen? Seriously? I just got done ripping off 4 strakes of planking because I grabbed the wrong width (wasn't paying attention) for the first strake and it threw the other 3 strakes way off... 1/16". Go for it...

Uh-oh... a new reality TV show... Pimp my Carronades!!! They do look super nice, Daniel. Congratulations.

Wonderful work, Nenad. For not having any patience, you did fantastic.

Anton, Have you considered just using brass rod and tubing and making some (without the threads)? They would be none functional, of course.

Scary? Yes it can be intimidating, frustrating, and nerve-wracking. Scary? Nah..... there's no monsters under the workbench. I think. I better check again.

Now that is a find looking carronade. The pivot would have a slide on it as I recall. The advantage of the piviot is field of fire. So this is secondary armament then?

I like that paint job. This little ship just jumps off the monitor.

Smoothing sailing all the way, Popeye. She's coming together very well.

I'll third it.... that's very good news.

Got my coffee and some popcorn... I'm here, too. You're off to a flying start.

Anton!!!! Welcome back. I thought this was you but wasn't sure. You're doing a beautiful build of this ship and I'm looking forward to following it.

You're off to a fine start and a log is the best way to get help and advice.

Andy, The PVA usually does not dry clear. If using the mix, you want the sawdust color to blend. Now if you're painting the whole hull... nevermind and just use filler and sand until smooth. It looks like you might be gluing plank to plank as your refence instead of plank to bulkhead. Hmmmm......

My sense is that Steve is right about a mix of guns. The privateers created a market for cannon of all shapes and sizes. As for your cannon questions... You might try asking it here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/15-discussion-for-a-ships-deck-furniture-guns-boats-and-other-fittings/ I'm not sure. Are those actual British cannon? or reproductions? Any markings on the trunnions or casabel area?

Matt, Measure the bore of the cannon at the fort. That will tell the size... 4 pdr = 3.0" 6 pdr = 3.4 9 pdr = 4" 12 pdr = 4.4" 18 pdr = 5.0" 24 pdr = 5.5" 32 pdr = 6.1"

Beautiful work, Jan. I am in awe....

Lon, How much weight are you using?

Keith, Is there a gap? If so, save the sawdust and make a slurry of 50/50 white (not PVA) school glue and water and the sawdust. Pack this into the gap and when it drys, sand. Repeat as necessary. If the gap isn't very big, brush some of that 50/50 mix into the gap and sand while wet. The sawdust will stick to the glue and the gap should disappear. However, repeat as needed.

]Andy, Let me see if I can help.... See the attached file....(not to scale). I've not built this vessel so there is somewhat of a guess here.... If I look at the other logs, the wales (they stand proud of the planking) seem to be single strips. So I'm assuming this is the first three strakes of planking. What I've done is overdrawn in red the way the wales (planks) should sit, I believe. 1) Don't worry about the step on the outside... that will disappear when you sand. 2) The inside of the plank should sit on the bulkhead with out any space (not always achievable, but we all try anyway). 3) The green arrows show where you need to bevel the planks Not much there. 4) IF a gap opens up when sanding the exterior, save the sawdust, mix sawdust with a 50/50 solution of white glue (not PVA) and water into a slurry. Fill the gap and when dry, continue sanding. Repeat as needed. There's two ways to do this, sand and bevel what's against the bulkhead or sand and bevel the plank such that it sits flush next to the first one (green arrow area). I think it's easier to lay the plank on the bulkhead and bevel the edges to fit the previously laid plank. There's 3 logs you probably should look at... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6794-pride-of-baltimore-ii-by-blue-pilot-model-shipways-scale-164/?hl=Baltimore http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6631-pride-of-baltimore-2-by-phebe-ms-scale-164/?hl=Baltimore http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1025-pride-of-baltimore-ii-by-jcoby-model-shipways-scale-164/?hl=Baltimore And also this (there's some good tutorials in there): http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php I'm attaching the cross-section from my current build. If you'll notice the inner and outer are roughly parallel but not completely as sanding the exterior changes that shape. The edges where they touch the next plank are not 90 degrees from the inside or outside of the plank. I hope this helps a bit.....

Popeye, You should be pleased. Very nicely done... I love the map! I guess you'll have tell the Admiral to keep pushing you....

I think breaking frames is part of the ritual.... :D Nicely fixed, I must say.