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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. You might try to find something like these: http://www.micromark.com/4-piece-Center-Drill-Set,7952.html I'm not sure how small you want to go.... Have you tried center tapping using a small nail?
  2. Running the breeching rope through the cheeks similar to what the French used. I'm not sure why the quoin was stuck in there that way. On the French ships, the rope would have lying off to the sides and not pulled out the back.
  3. Contact ANCRE about that. If my Google Translate worked right, all you got was the words and no drawings? If you have the French version, youll have to go to that book for the drawings maybe? The English versions I got from them all had the plans and drawings.
  4. The figurehead is a marvelous addition to a marvelous build. Hat's off to both you and Janos.
  5. I blew it again. Ah the joys of research and being pointed in unknown directions... the 8-pdr frigates that didn't have a chase port did not have them added . The first port had a gun, no lid, and was smaller because of the location. Anchor handling was done from the forecastle, the platform, and 'hanging off the side'. Still digging through these materials. Better to have found it late than never but I'm at a good point in the build to resolve these kinds of finishing issues. Thanks for letting me think out loud....
  6. Have a good day with family, Nenad. Her majesty will understand and be patient.
  7. Hi Walt, I make the same wishes to you and Linda. I'm praying that 2015 will be better for all of us. Anyway, take your time and make yourself and your bride comfortable and happy. The ship isn't going anywhere and we'll be here.
  8. I think "Wow" says it all. Are you using miniature hardware or simulating it? I'm seeing nuts/bolts that just add to the detail.
  9. Are you pointing to the bar between the two davits? If so, that's a griping bar. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9027-puddened-gripes/ See Frankie's post near the bottom of the page.
  10. Thanks Robin. I'm thinking about getting that book. I've paused my build while I mill some planking wood and sort out some things.
  11. Thanks Robin. This is a great way to sort things out and get input from others. Pity we can't all meet and talk over coffee or tea. Thanks Gaetan. That's what I was thinking but needed another input.
  12. I'm going to steal Robin's (and others) titles for this.... put down some thoughts, confusion, observations, and see how they fly. First a bit of background: I've become tired of waiting on ANCRE for the translation of the Belle Poule monograph and am doing it myself. Which as I read leads me down other paths. Some good, some not so good. It was recommended that I use this monograph as a "guideline" for my Licorne since it's in the time period (they were together when they ran into Admiral Keppel's fleet and Belle Poule went on to much fame). I'm also Googling like crazy in the quest for information. Per my sources, Hahn had it wrong on the rig. The masting and yards might have the proper dimensions for Le Venus but the rig should be from Belle Poule. Le Venus has some (quite a bit actually) things that were not done at the time of Licorne and Belle Poule. I do have to be cautious as Belle Poule is "as built" but Licorne is "as captured" which was after a rebuild. Much is different from the "as captured" and "as built" when she was built in 1755. So... for the first of many questions and thoughts.... 1) The first port (chase or hunting port or as the English call it: bridle port). It wasn't until 1787 that this port had a gun fitted as standard practice. There was also a full size lid on it. The rest of the ports were open unless bad weather dictated installation of the covers. I'm going to follow this practice. 2) The NMM plans for HMS LIcorne are very clear on the cross-section about the wales and how they were done (they blend into the planking as they do down the hull). Belle Poule and other frigates of this period have them done that way. Originally Licorne had wales like the English ships. So.... would the thicker planking have continue upwards in the bow area like Belle Poule, Bonhomme Richard, and others? Or not? I'm leaning towards following those examples. See photo (I'm using Karl's photo. I hope he doesn't mind.) for what I think is right. It's the area highlighted in red : As I stumble through this, I'll add to it
  13. 1:64 isn't too bad, Alan. Some things do get really tiny, real fast, though. Have some fun and I hope to see some sawdust.
  14. One other concept from Keith that some of us using is an offset on the fence such that it ends just past the front of the blade. Some use wood, some use metal. Here's pics of what I use and with the right blade, I can strip off 1/32" strips :
  15. I have no working knowledge of the Byrnes Saw.. ok, that's the disclaimer but I had a similar issue on a different brand. Is the fence on straight to the blade? Is the wood going under the fence? Some folks have glue a piece of wood so it's flush to the table.
  16. Bob, I "liked" not because of the news but because you had news. The news does make me sad, though.
  17. Figuerres, I think you're thinking of the La Salle expedition. There's some good info here: http://nautarch.tamu.edu/academic/alum.htm Search on La Belle for info on the ship they have found. Around Tampa would have been heavily French and Spanish as the English were focused on the north part of the continent.
  18. Short answer Frankie: Sam designed the kit. Somewhere in the production, things when to hell in a handbasket apparently. Rafine was building an early version (see his log for specifics). Sam got ill. Someone else finished or was involved in the rework for production. In the middle of all this, ME had management issues. It's still unclear to me what the issues were and how they were resolved.
  19. Nicely done on the breeching ropes. You'll get faster since the first ones always take more time.
  20. Mark & Druxey, Thanks for that info. I'll do that next time I make cannons. I knew about the center bit and it works a treat but holding the darn cannon without damaging it is a trick. Doing it before turning would be best. Hmm... note to self, don't start turning cannons now.
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