mtaylor

Instead of a model, having fun on a full scale house, are we? Been there.. I know the turmoil of doing it. I'm glad you're not giving but doing what you need to do to make things good. When you can.. keep us posted.

Jaw dropping work, Remco.

Row, Definitely check the runout. What was suggested to me was to put a coin at the "bottom" of the jaws and tighten the jaws. The coin should be small enough to allow the jaw "teeth" to be inside the circular opening. Then using the inside cutter, set the lathe spinning and just let the cutter kiss the jaw teeth. Move the cutter a very very small amount and cut a tiny bit off. The runout should be gone. You have to do the "kiss" with the cutter, slowly and carefully because if you try to move it too much at a time, you'll destroy the cutter and possible receive and injury from flying shrapnel.

Henry, Here's two links: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5781-thimble-help-needed/?hl=thimbles#entry166944 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/539-tiny-thimbles/?hl=thimbles You might also check out this post: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4679-the-kit-bashers-guide-to-the-galaxy/?p=281279 And also I've seen at least one in the Scratch Build area... Danny's Vulture Log.

Looking good, Mike. Tomorrow probably won't be a good day to sit outside if what I'm seeing on the weather for the east coast is correct.... It's hard to sand while wearing mittens. Don't ask how I know.

I almost missed this one.. Sweet work on the bezels. You're off to a great start, Grant.

Hi Brian, Welcome to MSW. That lantern looks great. If you hadn't said anyting, we wouldn't have known about it being "too tall". If you'll go to the database: here's a shortcut: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php There's a couple of articles on making flickering lights. If the light is too bright then consider putting a resistor in series to drop the voltage a bit. The LED will run cooler and last longer.

Nice work, Mobbsie. The nice thing about stepping outside the comfort zone is that if we do enough, it becomes part of the comfort zone. Well done!!!

Hi Jon, Welcome to MSW. I think I'll pull up a chair and watch if you don't mind.

Thanks for the feedback and the "likes". JPett, spiling is an option but at this point, I just use a file sometimes in place, other times, remove the plank, shape and re-fit. After I get these first two wales done, I'll mark off the hull and then have to do tapering, spiling, etc. As Michael says, we all do the dance... Between translating the Belle-Poule monograph and planking, I'm keeping fairly busy and somedays, its seems like I don't get much done. Interesting material in the Belle-Poule monograph. The rigging plan is radically different then Le Venus that Hahn used. I see I'll need some feed-through sheaves amongst other things.

<picks self up off floor><brushes off sawdust><low whistle> Wow... that is tiny and lovely at the same time.

Those chocks look perfect, Mark. They should jump right out with the finish. Keep up the nice work.

Thank you for showing how you did that beautiful work on the planking.

I agree with Druxey... beautiful work, Gaetan.

Your rigging is just as beautiful as the works in wood, Karl.

Thanks Tim for the comment and to everyone for the "likes". I do start with a longer plank and then bend it to shape. The ends that don't get bent get removed and the planked is checked for length, Carl. I think if they don't line up, one of two things will happen... I'll either shape the other side to match, or rip it off and have another go. I think you're right Denis. I'm beyond V1. Well into the Twilight Zone. Thanks Patrick. They're being ironed out as I go. I do find that I tend to post the "not good" stuff as well as the "good" stuff. I think it's part of the learning curve and finding pitfalls. The really nice thing... perhaps the biggest thing about MSW is that we all learn from each other. Back to planking...

Peaksol, I don't have a Proxxen but a Micromark which is similar. Here's my method: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9312-need-advice-with-byrnes-saw/?p=274646 It's repeatable and consistent. Just make sure that the blade doesn't get hot since it will distort.

I looked this book over and decided that Mondfeld covered the information better. Not as a detailed work, but only as a general reference. I still use it for guidance (such as terminology) to dig deeper.

A beautifully done bulkhead, Sjors. I see lots of progress there on the deck and beams... looks great.

Well done on the visor. Sometimes a heavy hand and desperation are our friends. And that ice maker... a 1953 Hotpoint? Has that look to it...

Mike, You might want to post this in the Books section and open a topic for the AOTS Endeavour book. I suspect that anyone who's not following along or a new builder might not see these logs.

Thanks for the "likes". Thanks Pat. I've still got my fingers crossed... Next ship won't be French so hopefully the planking will be easier. Thanks Augie. It is a challenge.. But, I wanted the wale's line to highlight their curve. Thanks George. It's the way the plank runs and twists. I am going to run a file over it and get it looking more even as well as sand everything since there's some unevenness in thickness due to the bends and twists. Since this is the first side, I may use it for the "wall side" as I'll do my experimentation here. :D

I'd say either Olson or the blades from Sawbird. I don't have a link as they dropped off my "Favorites" for some reason.....

Druxey, I would assume they had it figured out somehow.. maybe men below keeping the rope hanging down from tangling? I seriously doubt that cable reels (like power and telcos use) were available. I have a hard time just comprehending that they floated the masts to the ship and using manpower and sheers got the masts installed. Moving all that cordage out to the ship for rigging would have been an operation unto itself. I wish there was more historical info, it would be fascinating to know how the heck they did things like this.

Update.. we ain't dead in the water yet..!!! After milling my wood, I spent a fair amount of time sorting out how to put this together.. the wales. There's 12 strakes that start off a 3/32" thick and as they go down to the main hull planking, they thin to 1/16" which is the "normal" planking thickness. Above the main wales, the upper works planking is 1/32" thick. After much experimentation and sorting things out, my approach is below. First two pics are how I clamp things down... This one shows the actual planking... hang with me, there's issues that I know have to be resolved due to some gaps. 1) is the second strake of wales. Solid swiss pear. 2) is the underlayment of 1/32" thick Swiss Pear. This is for the top strake of wales. 3) is the first of the planking for the upper works. Forward of the first port will be heavier planking going from the wales upward (last photo which is from Karl's build of Bohomme Richard.) 4) Ebony for the top wale. It's 1/16" thick to make it easier to bend than the full thickness of the strake. The issues are the end of the ebony needs adjusting. For some reason it drooped while getting it into place. And there's piece near the stem on the second wale where pear split. I'm not overly concerned about it as the bolster for the hawse pipes goes over that. The whole thing will need sanding and smoothing but for now, I'm going to continue on and finish running these to the stern and then get the other side done. I'm also still sorting out clamps. Seems I broke two frames in the process of getting things glue up. I have to not put so much force on those clamps. As always, feel free to click on the pics to enlarge and criticism, different ideas, etc. are always welcome. I'm still learning this stuff.