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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Mark, I believe the more time spent on getting the frames right and faired, the better. I found out the hard way which is why I'm on Version 2.0. Pictures are good because for some reason, things you don't see looking at the actual object really do stand out in a photo. Keep up the nice work.
  2. Steve. Looking very impressive. Here's a link... for $45 it's not a bad bit hardware: http://shipahoymodels.com/equipmentforsale.htm Near the bottom of the page. I have one and while it's not fancy or high-tech like Alexey's, it does a good job.
  3. Another amazing build, Patrick. Even more amazing when one realizes that this is lot smaller than the "normal" build.
  4. Good catch, Mark. I've discovered that also. It's best to take periodic measurements as the frames are set up and the spacers installed.
  5. Ah but Lextin has already been seduced to the Darkside... and also to S.I.B. He's becoming an Jedi knight at this.
  6. Hi Adam, Nice to hear that you're healthy enough to get back in the shop. I quite agree about drilling holes.. a white-knuckle trip for sure. I hope you have the holes already drilled in the keel .. or will you mount it some other way.
  7. Sweet work on the sails. I've seen the tutorial but not pictures. You've brought that all together in my mind. Thanks!
  8. Richard, Worst case if you can't find any is to get some 14 gauge wire, heat it with a touch and hammer away to flatten it. Might take several times with the torch and after it's flat enough, hit it again with the torch and let air cool to anneal it and make it softer for bending. Edit: Heat the copper till it's red...
  9. Sjors, The planks are scale size. Thus, a 1 foot (304.8 mm) wide plank in real life is 3/16" (4.7625 mm) wide on the model.
  10. Thanks for looking in and the "likes" and comments. Dan, I know you're right. I think I'm being stubborn again. I'll sand the pear to "close" to the ebony and finish with the scraping. Mike, Let's say ebony is interesting.... the dust is a bear to clean up, it kills blades very quickly and also discolors the tools from the oil. But!!! I love the way it looks. So it's a trade-off. As for using it again? I'm looking into alternatives. I tried some stain on some pear and it didn't take. It takes on boxwood well. Currently, I'm waiting on some Feibling's leather dye to come in. I want to try that using alcohol instead of water. Sjors, All scale planks in length, thickness, and width. If I look at the pictures of Hahn's build, I'm not sure he used scale planking but I'm giving it a try. I just need to be slow, patient, and careful.
  11. I agree with what David said. Also, your block on the fence is too far back. It should end just past the front edge of the blade. I reset my block depending on how high the blade is out of the saw. The blade should be about 1/16" above the top of the wood. What seems to be happening is the back of the blade is causing the plank to rise up and be thinned down after the cut. It's a trial and error process to find out what works best for you. Just make sure to keep your fingers away from the blade.. getting cut by them tosses blood everywhere and they hurt a lot. I found out the hard way during a moment's inattention.
  12. Thanks for looking in, everyone. Port side, first three strakes. Not too bad to my eye and I'm happy. The pics, though tell me that I'll have to do some sanding and shaping still around the joints and also to fair and smooth things out a bit. The big challenge here is the where the plank thickness changed and also where the hull shape changed due to the tumblehome. I'll fix things with some sanding and then finally scraping to get the ebony dust out of the Swiss pear grain. Onto the starboard side....
  13. Sweet work on the bitts and pumps. And the rope coils are a nice touch. Super nifty, my friend.
  14. I'm with Pat on this... very interesting concept. The only question in mind would be is that there should be a better way of securing the "windlass". These vessels were designed for ramming and I'd think that the hit would bow the keel slightly, maybe more then enough to shake that brace loose. I wouldn't want to be anywhere near that thing when the winding torque on the cable was suddenly released.
  15. I checked... all of us building French ships are way behind you. Though I think Gaetan has a 1:24th 74 finished but not masted.
  16. Well that's good that it's only a bar upstairs and not a bowling alley. Great looking LED's. With the stuff they're coming out with now, I'll have do some serious thinking on my next build. When I did my Constellation, the smallest LED's were 5mm.
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