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Everything posted by mtaylor
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The bad thing about the camera is that it sees the flaws that we don't. It's also sometimes the good thing. I thought she was looked great and then you pointed out the issues. Well.. she still looks great and probably more like the original did. A garnish tray? Hmm... make it out of something water proof and you'll and you'll have a gravy boat.
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Thanks for the "likes" and the comments. As for the song... 1) Nope, I didn't get to play with the pencils. No bench and no pencils around. 2) No pictures, Grant, unless you have a seeing eye dog. Back to sorting out the stern.... and trying not to pull my hair out.
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Journeyman??? I'm just a mere apprentice still. After singing a chorus of "Alice's Restaurant" yesterday and a Thanksgiving meal that couldn't be beat... I got to spend time in the shipyard.. yippiee. I've cut, shaped, and installed two more timbers. Seems that all the curved timbers from port to starboard have different curves and one is canted at about 45 degree angle from the waterline. I'm not sure why. The two finally fitted are for the upper and lower sills for the lights. The top sill timber is also the last deck beam for the quarterdeck. The lower sill is hidden behind the planking. I still need to fair these two before I go much further. There's two more sets of timbers, one is for the counter and the other is for the taffrail to sit on. Anyway, here's the picture I took for my checking as the camera shows more than the human eye (to me anyway). I'm pleased with these two timbers and well turn to on fairing them in and trimming down the lower sill timber.
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Clare, Are these fore and aft pivot guns? If so, as I recall, there are four ring bolts. They would rotate the gun, then attach the tackle to two of the ringbolts to lock down the carriage. I did them as seized ropes, not in firing position. In firing postion, they had blocks. Yeah.. I fudged it royally on that as I didn't have small enough blocks. And that's a crying shame about having to stay in and work in the shipyard.
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Can you show what the seizings look like? I and I'm sure others aren't familiar with this method.
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She looks great in her case, Tony. I knew she was big but not THAT big.
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Nice work on the rudder and good for you on putting it away for now. I think you learned a good thing there on re-doing.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I'm sorry to hear that. I do hope tomorrow is a better day.- 4,151 replies
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Casting epoxies from Smooth-on
mtaylor replied to src's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Pat, Excellent article. Send it to Chuck. He has the access to do add it. -
Casting epoxies from Smooth-on
mtaylor replied to src's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Joe, I didn't use a heat setting on the hair dryer back then. I guess it could be called a pressure type of thing in that blowing the air across the epoxy caused the bubbles to come to the surface and break. -
Casting epoxies from Smooth-on
mtaylor replied to src's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sam, I have no idea of longevity. In a former life, I made clocks that used a clear epoxy (photo glued to wood and then epoxy the whole mess). I used a hair dryer on cool to degass and get rid of any bubbles. Might work for you. -
Casting epoxies from Smooth-on
mtaylor replied to src's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sam, If you go with the clear plastic, use canopy cement (the aircraft guys use this stuff) so the plastic doesn't craze. -
Casting epoxies from Smooth-on
mtaylor replied to src's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Alternately, use the MicroMark product: I haven't used it yet, but reports from other builders say it works very well. Gill Middleton used it on his Victory's lanterns. -
That's a pirated kit by one of the ZHL companies and fronted by a Russian for sales. See here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/181-banned-kit-manufacturers-on-msw/ If you look carefully at the kit pictures, the wood is burned by the laser cutting. They claim "Amati" kits but Amati doesn't package their kits in Chinese. If you buy it, you won't be allowed to do a build log as per the above link, MSW does not support piracy.
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That's a nice, clean, and impressive display in the armory, Augie.
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Nice framing indeed, John. It's good to see you getting some building time in.
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Thank you for the "likes" and the comments. I'm working on it, Augie. It softens both the glue to remove the glued pieces and also softens the brain of the shipwright. PM sent. Fiddly I think is an understatement, Sam.
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Deck clamps
mtaylor replied to butch's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Pete, Measure from the build board up is the easiest way. Mark on the frame (I go between the frames) then work from the inside using our marks as a reference. If you'll look at the plans, Hahn, shows the clamp as a line with the beams on it. Use that line for your measurement to locate the top of the clamp. I use a tool I copied from Ed T's Naiad log... here's my version: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=154262 -
If you hadn't told us and only shown the finished work, we might thought it was a POF. Very well done, Bob.
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