mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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No problem, Dave. I won't tell a soul.
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Converting a kit to a different scale...
mtaylor replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Wood ship model kits
Charlie, Basically, you enlarge the plans (or make them smaller. Then cut wood as needed for keel, bulkheads, etc. You'll basically be scratchbuilding. Nothing wrong with that and quite a few folks have build logs in the scratch area for doing this. The only thing really different is that parts need to be cut by you instead of the manufacturer. -
ShopMate Multi-system
mtaylor replied to bdgiantman2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Since you didn't get any answers here, I figured no one had one. It's good you got an answer. I think Shopmate has a forum on web as I recall my dad discovered it or one that had ShopMate discussions years ago. -
Nicely fixed, Juergen. I'm with Nigel on it being hidden.
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Rope making question
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
Thanks, Pat. I saw that article and it's food for thought and testing. Testing will have to wait though until after the 25th. -
Thank you for the "likes" and comments. So far, nothing I thought was "horrible' was. Easily fixable once I got over the shock of seeing it blown up. This is part that Hahn gives minimal help by "leaving it up the modeler to fit and finish". Last time, his recommended method didn't work for me. It involved running the deck clamp to the stern frames and then tying in a couple of vertical stringers. It just didn't look right nor was my craftsmanship good enough to get it consistant and proper. So here's the plan: Inside the red area is where I'll be focused next. I'm now going to cut a piece of 1/8" thick cherry to shape, thin it down to the thickness of the frame forward and taper to half thickness where it ties into the stern frame. It's pretty much a straight line according to the plans from above.. I'll finesse it in and then cut the doorway before mounting it. The top of the piece (green) is the cut line for when the ship is removed from the buildboard so that's the upper limit. It needs to be deep enough to catch the deck clamp as I'll need to add a beam on the gun deck as well as the clamp near the top for the quarterdeck. It should be a lot sturdier for planking the inside and the outside and strengthen that stern framing some. The doing should be a lot simpler than the describing. We shall see what we shall see on the 'morrow after I fair the inside of the stern timbers.
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Dragzz, I have the same slip from 10 or 12 years ago when I did mine. It was warped also. As I recall, that track is screwed down. I just soaked it, ran a line down the baseboard and screwed it down (and glued it) so the warp came out. It's sitting in my wood/tool storage area and is still straight.
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Rope making question
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
Gaetan, I would deeply appreciate that. I'll forward a copy to Chuck to have it put into the Article Database. -
Thanks for the likes and comments. I saw it.. fixed it. The macro has it's advantages sometimes. Thanks John. I think I needed that kick in the pants.
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I've often heard that that it's not about the destination but the journey that's important. I agree but this journey is currently being measured in inches and not miles. I added the timbers the taffrail will sit on and worked up and installed the two outer timbers for the counter. The whole stern area was then rough faired. Final fairing will be just before planking. The taffrail timber needs to be shaped after cutting loose the stern (the red curved line). I still have a lot of shaping to that curve and most can be done while it's in frame and on the build board but I need to set up the rest of the stern framing. This will be filling in the area between the final cant frame and the stern frames with framing for mounting the quarter galleries and the hatchway from the Great Cabin. I'm have some ideas on how to do this as this another area that Hahn is a little vague on how to do. Anyway enough out of me, here's the photos. Feel free to click on and enlarge them to see everything in horrible detail.
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Doc, It looks great. Beautiful work on everything. Just a minor point to keep in mind... on a wooden ship with a wooden deck, the trucks would not have been sheathed in metal as they would have torn the deck to shreds. The only time they were metal sheathed would have been in garrison on a stone fort or in the case of pivot guns using a metal track.
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Rope making question
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
Thanks Jerry. And thank you, Alexey. That goes a long way to help me sort some things out. -
Rope making question
mtaylor posted a topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
Well, the holiday season is upon us and my Admiral and were talking about things. She brought up the question/suggestion of my making my own rope. I can sense what's going to happen.... So a question. Is there a formula or table of what size threads to use to make rope of a given size? I figure I got to be prepared. -
After seeing this in your hand... As Dan said.. you are a true master.
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Druxey, This would mean than that the chains along with their cups, would have been exposed? Or do you think they just didn't include the tubes, etc. for simplicity's sake? I'm thinking that this type of stuff was the "common knowledge" that was never written down.
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Beautifully done and a another great tutorial, Karl.
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- bonhomme richard
- frigate
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New keyboard and mouse... nice framing.... what more can anyone ask?
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Careful there, we're all about to be sent to our rooms without dinner.... :D
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- bounty launch
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Nice cannon work, Augie. Use my philosophy... If they growl, hug them. If they scream and turn red in the face, run across the room to a safe place and throw chocolate at them. :D
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- confederacy
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Nice work on the bow, Sjors. It seems everyone has trouble with the stern and bow on this ship.... you've done well, sir.
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- caldercraft
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So first scratch build... you claim. Looks like you've doing this all your life. The frames and jig look great.
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- granado
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Daniel, On the Queen cross-section.... it looks like the lower pumps are chain pumps (cistern) and elm-trees. The lower chain pumps have square 'pipe' and the elm-trees have hexagon 'pipes'. Neither set of pumps has any detail such as dales or pump handles. The upper pumps are elm-trees... hexagon 'pipes'. The ones I think are elm-trees is due to their length above the deck and the hexagon shape. Note the number of, let's call them pipes) going up from the lowest deck and that they stop at two decks pump areas. Those hexagon things on the upper.... I have no idea.
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Dafi, You're not completely cleared yet.. get those grates to the hold!!!
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wq, The tiller was overhead along the beams. Hatches, knees, etc. were all part of the "normal" for them. You'd be wrong in your assumption of the guns not being installed. Maybe in times of peace as many ship were not completely fitted out with guns and crew. The ship I'm currently building even had cabins on the quarterdeck for the officers and higher ranks (it was French). It was common on other nations also and these cabins would be removed during time of war.
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Ouch on the wrong cut. I'm surprised the air didn't turn blue down this far south. That crank is just impressive. But since you told us, you can't get away with the old hot rodder's line of "I grooved the bearing journals and crank for improved oil flow."
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