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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Beautiful work and that table is just great. Have a wonderful Christmas and I hope it's a great 2015 for you.
  2. mtaylor
    Looks great, Mark. I had thought about doing frames for the whole ship that way, but it is a pain and time consuming.
  3. mtaylor
    Alan, Seeing the look on his face made me smile too. Great job on her.
  4. mtaylor
    Fam, On the bending... apply heat. You can steam the planks, put them in hot water (boiling hot), or soak and use an electric plank bender or a curling iron. The thicker the wood, the more soaking and heating need to be applied.
  5. mtaylor
    Dr. Per, That one is the top top top of the line... I opted for cheap.... but it seems to do the job: http://www.lowes.com/pd_549708-20097-5872511_0__?productId=50159057&Ntt=shop+vacuums&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dshop%2Bvacuums&facetInfo=
  6. mtaylor
    Very well done, Magnus. Actually, correct that.... Amazing work.
  7. mtaylor
    Use as few or as many as you want or have. My heaviest used power tools are the table saw and scroll saw, followed by the mill (doubles as a drill press) and lathe (minimal... guns, some round stock, etc.) Most important tool... a good shop vac for dust control and clean-up as my shop is in a spare bedroom.
  8. mtaylor
    Depends on the thickness of the wood. Have a look here... I know it's for the Byrnes saw, but the blade selection and tips are worth the read: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php If you know the diameter and the hole size, try Thurston: http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html
  9. mtaylor
    Anthony, I've got one it's not a bad tool. It won't do production work or take a large amount of material off on one pass but for what it does, it does it well. I've thicknessed ebony, boxwood, cherry, and am currently running swiss pear through it. Depending on the wood, one might need to swap out sanding drums for a different grit. Mine's NOT bolted down as I move it about from bench to storage to outside, etc. As long as the wood isn't forced through, I've no problem. It takes a bit of practice to find the feed rate. I'm currently re-thicknessing some 1/16" (about 2mm) strips down to 1/32" (about 1 mm) with minor issues such as if the piece slips out of my hand on the output side, it gets pulled back into the sander and destroyed pretty quickly. I have it set, run the strip through to take it down and flip the wood over and do it again to smooth out that side also. Bigger pieces of wood haven't been a problem. A few suggestions... you'll need a pair of snap ring pliers for changing drums and belts and order some extra belts. And by all means run a shop vac on the outlet port. These things do dump out a huge amount of sawdust. A good comparison is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3393-thickness-sandersbyrnes-vs-micro-mart/
  10. mtaylor
    Charlie, ModelExpo used to but I'm not sure if they still do. You might also check Ages of Sail.
  11. mtaylor
    Thank you for the "likes" and comments even when I've done a bone-headed stunt like that. It keeps me honest and on my toes. Christian, The modified fence idea came from Grant and Danny and fences are just a bit of creative usage. So.. no... I stole all the ideas. Chuck, They go from the main wales up and there's one wide one for the garboard strake. Hopefully, I won't need a lot of sanding. I'll recheck the fairing after I'm done cutting as I've found one small area that needs a tweak in the fairing. I hope everyone has a great Holiday and in the meantime, I'll keep thicknessing and cutting for now.
  12. mtaylor
    A beautiful ship, Matija. You did her well. I love the details like painting/carving(?) on the tiller.
  13. mtaylor
    Looking super nice, Alan. Being on schedule is a big plus... Can't wait to see the final pictures.
  14. mtaylor
    You can try the fans. What someone (I think it's RustyJ's Winchelsea build) did was make a box with holes in it. The shop vac plugs into it and all sanding is done on top such that the sawdust is pulled into the box and then the vac. If your vac has an exit port that accepts a hose, run a hose out of the shop so the dust goes outside. Or, get a shop vac that uses a bag and a filter. I have one of those and work in the house. There's no dust going anywhere. I also set it up to suck up the dust if I'm doing massive sanding with frequent stops to vacuum up any that falls by the wayside the rest of the time.
  15. mtaylor
    George, I don't have a Jim Saw...those are from MicroMark as I have their saw. Hmm.. I'm wondering if it would save the cost of blades to run them backwards? :D
  16. mtaylor
    Adriaan, Are these online prices or have you checked any local home improvement stores? I got mine at a home improvement/hardware store for <$200 US. Hitachi with a 16" table and it takes both types of blades. I would hope you have something similar over there in Oz. BTW, no matter what saw you get, you'll need to make a zero-clearance plug to replace whatever the saw comes with. The holes in the plug from factory are always huge.
  17. mtaylor
    Oh crap... I just noticed I have the blade in backwards.....
  18. mtaylor
    Thanks for the "likes and" comments. Just a break from building here while dimensioning my Swiss Pear supply for this. For hull planking, I'm need 4 sizes of wood: 1/32" X 1/8", 3/32" X 3/16", 1/16" X 1/8" and 1/16" X 3/16". I have an ample supply of planking wood that is +1/16" X +1/8" and +3/32 X +3/16" that I'm converting down. I've been testing out my technique on this and sorting things out. For the first batch of 1/32" X 1/8", what I'll be doing is running it through the thicknesser to get it down to 1/32" (dead on exact) and then running it thought the table saw with a 230T blade to get the exact 1/8" I want.. For those on metric, 1/32" is equal to about 1mm. I give the raw dimensions as "+" because they're all a tad oversize and the oversize seems to be inconsistent. I'm attaching two pics of the saw with the wood being run through it. You can see that very little wood is being removed and also how I'm keeping my big paws away from the blade. I hope to have planking underway pretty soon. In fact, maybe tomorrow, I'll take a break from dimensioning and do the counter. Hmmm... I need some ebony for the stern above the lights so I'll have to do that also. Overall view: Close up of blade area:
  19. mtaylor
    Matti, I'm glad to hear the meds are working and I'm also loving the progress on Wasan.
  20. mtaylor
    Lovely planking, Mike. The anchor stocks look super neat.
  21. mtaylor
    Well done on the frame, Grant. It looks super sharp.
  22. mtaylor
    I'm always one clamp short, no matter how many I have.
  23. mtaylor
    What CaptainSteve said. I couldn't have said it better.
  24. mtaylor
    I quite agree with B.E. There's issues to be sure, but they are a great help when figuring things out.
  25. mtaylor
    thanks for all the comments and "likes". No need to buy more wood at this point. I have a nice stash. Fully planked, sir, but it won't come out of the jig until the exterior planking is finished and may leave it there while I do much of the internal work. It makes a nice way to hold it. Right now, it looks like these will be the woods... Ebony - wales (but not all main, only the top strake), rails, stern above the windows, the trim where the counter meets the hull. Quarter gallery trim. I'm also thinking the yards but that may change to something with an ebony stain. Swiss Pear - external planking. Boxwood - decking and carvings, trim strips on the stern above and below the windows and the window framing. Also, quarter galleries. Possibly the masts but that's subject to change. Also maybe gratings, not sure just yet. Pear - coamings, pin rails, bitts, head rails, capstans and possibly some on the galleries. Silver Maple - ceiling and inner bulwarks. Probably gratings, not sure. Holly - figurehead with hopefully ebony for hooves and eyes, as it is a unicorn. I'm undecided still on the gun carriages (maybe pear or swiss pear? I also have some nice walnut that might work.) Same goes for the Great Cabin... maybe boxwood or pear for the trim fittings. Need to think on what to put in there as furniture, if any and also things like buckets, gun handling items.... we'll see. Anyway back to figuring out what I need to mill and how much. And more importantly, how to do the milling.

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