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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Nice painting... the stern is shaping up very well.
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That looks to be a nice planking run that you'll have, John.
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Hmm...let me see if I can explain it better.... Look at the picture. For each line (in green) it would go from the sail, thorugh the blocks (red) to the next blocks (next to the mast) and then down to the deck. This set of lines would hold the foot of the sail in the proper position for use. Then, there's the blue lines... which are not on that drawing for some reason. They would run from the foot of the sail up to the blocks and then down to the deck. To furl the sails, the red would be loosened, and the blue would be pulled. Once up they would be furled by hand with crewmen on the footropes. I may not have the blocks for the blue lines in the correct position. They might be on the yard itself.
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Razor saw handle/miter box
mtaylor replied to qwerty2008's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nice work on the handle and miter box. That handle is work of art, Lextin. -
Tom, You're doing fine. When the first layer is completed, fill the low spots and sand the living daylights out of her until everything is smooth and fair. The second layer, go for the nice look. I made my own quarter galleries. But my log only has pictures as it's an executive summary of what was there back on MSW 1.0. It might give you some ideas on how to do the galleries.
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Jason, I think they are missing a block at the end of the yards. The line would go through the block instead of the hole. What these lines do is hold the foot of the sail out and spread. To furl or reef, the sheet line would be loosened and allow the sail to billow in the middle (if need be) or pulled up a furled.
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A bit more shaping... You're right Popeye. But not much and mostly inside. Alternately, I can plank the ceiling such that there's a wood trim strip (I'm using Belle Poule's plans as reference) so that it won't be that noticeable. Plus, being inside, it'll mostly be hidden. Funny, I just figured it out... Hahn didn't plank the whole Great Cabin. The transom/stern area is left "raw". I'll take some shortcuts but only on the lower decks much the way I planned it on Version 1.0 but not in the Great Cabin or the rest of the gundeck. Anyway... back to contemplation on the next step. I find I'm having more success by visualizing what needs to be done before I do it. One of the next areas is where the sternpost and rudder come up through the counter. I need to put in some support for to terminating the counter planks. Also, on another topic, there's a discussion about tapering the wales to fit the rabbet. I need to sort out if the French did that. Research, contemplation, more research and maybe the smell of sawdust soon.
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Thanks Omega. Not a promotion as such. I stepped down. I've was a moderator for too many years and needed to have more time to myself. BTW, "Special Contributor" is the title given to all former moderators now, even though we're just members.
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Sweet work, Matti. As I recall, the rigging at times was a rat's nest but it all comes together. You're doing a great job.
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Daniel, You and the guys who do ships in bottle make my eyes hurt at the amount of detail you do in such small scales. Just amazing framing.
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Bob, That was a fast move. Did you need to change employers also? Anyway, take of you and the things that need to be taken care of. I don't think MSW is moving anywhere. Particularly take care of yourself. Moves are stressful enough and even moreso when they have to be done quickly.
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I think I bagged it.... Fiddly work at best. I made some templates, changed them, cut some wood, fed the scrap box Then I got what I wanted. Since this is hidden by quarter galleries, I'll fair it in and tweak as needed before planking. The interior will need minimal as some is hidden by the clamps, deck beams and deck. The interior will get planked and probably some trim around the doorways with some nice doors. It would appear that the French played the "misdirection" game as well as the Brits. On the Brits Roebuck class, there's two rows of stern windows so that when seen by ship coming from astern it would appear bigger than it is. On Licorne, the top of the stern windows are also the beam for the quarterdeck. From inside, the bottom of the lights are about chest high. It gives the appearance when coming astern that the ship is taller than she really is and from a distance it could be mistaken for an 18 pdr frigate (my conjuncture). I think the galleries were designed with the same "look" in mind. Here's some more pics of her rear, and I'm off to the next bit which will either be setting up the deadlights or shaping the taffrail..
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Converting a kit to a different scale...
mtaylor replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Wood ship model kits
Tadeusz, Would you give some thought to posting your list here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/13-ships-plans-and-scratch-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/ ? I think it would be big help to those looking for plans. -
Converting a kit to a different scale...
mtaylor replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Wood ship model kits
Charlie, For the linking: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/760-how-to-add-a-build-log-link-to-your-signature/ True, scratch isn't much different from kits except normally there's no instructions. Kits do have a lot pre-cut and some things pre-made but they do have almost all of the parts you need. Scratching you just source or make your own. -
Thanks for the likes and comments. Dan and Augie, I think the doorway is canted like that due to the sheer of the deck. There was a discussion of the Great Cabin in English ships recently that showed doorways the same way. I am taking a hard look at the Belle Poule plans to see how her's were handled. To my eye, there's just not that much sheer to compensate for. Thanks Nigel, but that's already accounted for in the wood I'm using. Thanks Danny. I needed that.. and also a new keyboard.
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