scrubbyj427
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Everything posted by scrubbyj427
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The linseed oil brings out the most color but pics are deceiving. I used wop and was happy as well. Im kinda partial to copper as it will age nicely and look authentic. I used both though, mostly by mistake. Either route you take the cherry will look great just like Rusty’s build. -
Small progress update, I’ve been working through chapter 9, doing the final onboard planking and the caprails. I’ve have a few small issues with the caprails which all stem from my earlier planking and fairing in the beginning of the project but nothing serious. The worst is in the waist, I had to sand down the spirketting a little more than I wanted, to make it match the sheer, it won’t be too noticeable once the model is complete but I’ll know it’s there. Lesson learned. taking a week off from work and I plan to finish chapter 9 when I return. Thanks for stopping by! JJ
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Very nice deck planking! Will look great after you sand it.
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Ok I can see it now. The previous photo looked like the spirketting was way too inboard but it was because of the elevation and angle of the photo. Glad you’re on track! She looks good.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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She’s looking good. One thing I see but can’t tell for sure, because of the angle, is your spirketting in the very front of the bow, it may be too far back from your fairing guide. I would jump ahead to chapter nine and print out the cap rails in the monograph and check to make sure everything is going to fit right. If not, then now is definitely the time to make corrections.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Ver nice work Steve, off to a good start! I usually just use a dry brush to dust it off then wipe it on and wipe it off. Never had a problem and always looks good.
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I cut most of my wood thicker than 3/64, for almost the whole Winnie project and I did for the same reason, so I had lots of room to sand. It has bit me a few times but it’s helped more than hindered. It should produce a nice cabin floor when complete. I would recommend leaving the cabin floor just a bit high where the deck planks meet so you can sand it flush to the planks, or you could go the other way around and since you didn’t add paint like I did, you won’t have to worry about sanding too far.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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That looks really nice and crisp. Well done!
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- winchelsea
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Thank you Vladimir.
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Congratulations on 10 years Chuck. Your innovations and contributions to the ship modeling community go beyond measure, you have set the bar very high and created a whole new niche of products and a growing number of enthusiasts.
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Thanks Glenn. I’ve been experimenting with lighting. I’ve just been holding my work lamp above until it looks good. Trying to keep a dark background. My photography has been in need of improvement for awhile now lol. Thank you Gus! Thank you James! I’m enjoying watching your Winnie begin to progress.
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That looks really good Mike! Well done.
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- winchelsea
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And that concludes chapter 8, opening chapter 9 as I write this, forward progress will begin tomorrow. I did the same for 8 as chapter 7 with the deck beams and all the knees. Had to finagle the stove in so I could block sand all the beams down fair and make a gigantic mess but it all worked out. One more gun to rig for this chapter and then I’ll finish remaining four after chapter 9. And no more lights! Thanks for stopping by. JJ
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Looking good. Those planks are definitely a challenge that’s worth it. Great results!
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Thanks Gabe. I finally got them all installed and that design worked perfectly.
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Nicely done Matt! You’re moving along now. That whole pump assembly is quite a challenge with many moving parts… no pun intended. So many things need to line up for it to work. Looks good. You’re almost on chapter 8!
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Nice work Matt, the railing turned out excellent!
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Congratulations Jim, she looks great. The figures add a whole new layer to the model and the copper looks really good. The crew really gives perspective to the size of Winnie. Looking forward to seeing how you display her. JJ
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- winchelsea
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Very well done! The Q gallery’s look just perfect, along with the moulding profile! Impressive work.
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You definitely have gotten the hang of it. Looks very good Frank. Keep at it!
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You could also take sections through your butt lines and then offset each one to the thickness you want the frame (in profile view) and then proceed to build the new frames around those lines as a reference. Also as @Richard Dunn mentioned, offsetting by the outer surface of the frames and creating a solid from that would be beneficial. The issue is that the inner hull and outer hull are shaped differently. Have you tried to just offset your hull surface by itself and see how that results? For my model I just used offsets from the hull surface at the thickness I wanted for the frames and extruded solids so the tops of the frames are as fair as the outside. These were always taken from the higher side of the hull, for example, in the bow I would take the section from the fwd facing side and extrude aft and the opposite in the stern. This allows for proper sanding. In rhino you would do the same but run you spline that you would use to create planks, from the highest side of the frame to the next highest one, slicing right through the part that would be sanded… if that makes any sense.
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
scrubbyj427 replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Very nice work Ron, it’s coming along very well!- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
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