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Sailor1234567890

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Everything posted by Sailor1234567890

  1. That being said, Gil's coils are great. They are even and look realistic. That is what I would go for. Coils of the same length no matter the diameter of the line. The bulk of coil being varied to account for the length of line needed for the line being represented and the thickness of the line. Make the coil fast to the pin in the same fashion for each line and you'll have a realistic looking ship model. Decide if you want locking turns over the pin or not and stick with it. I always use a single locking turn over the pin but in modeling it, I can't imagine the PITA it would be to put that locking turn over each coil. I might be inclined to skip the locking turn.
  2. JSGerson, I wouldn't bother trying to model those coils like that. They are purely decorative and no sailing ship would have them unless they had visitors coming aboard. Dignitaries, VIPs etc. They tend to keep moisture and rot the deck beneath them if they are left there. They are "yachty" and most sailors wouldn't have them on their boats. I wouldn't. I see that HMS Victory has them in that first picture but I also see things about how her lines are made fast that makes my spidey senses tingle. Those coils would not have been so different. Yes, there are different sizes and lengths of line meaning that there would have been bigger coils and smaller coils. Not longer, just bulkier. The Bosn and the 1st Lieutenant would have made sure that all coils were made the same way. There are many ways to make up a coil but usually they boil down to the right way, the wrong way, my way or the highway. "My way" was the 1st Lieutenants way and that's how the whole ship would have been done. That's my experience anyway. The lines in those pictures were clearly done by many different riggers on the job with little to no common oversight as to how they were done. In a working ship in the RN in those days, you can be assured that the coils would all have been the same length and made fast to the pin the same way. To add a locking turn or not is generally a matter of personal preference. I prefer to put one locking turn on over the coil rather than simply place the loose coild over the pin. The only difference you'd see being the thickness of the rope and length coiled to vary how much bulk of line there was on the pin. Each line needed to be free to run at a moment's notice so coils that have hitches around the coil would certainly never have been permitted. At least, certainly not if it was done "my way".
  3. Is it the lead of the line from one sheave to the next? Doesn't seem lined up to be fair for the line to avoid chafing against the corners involved.
  4. Bugra, Seems you are only the second individual I have ever heard of that actually enjoys sanding. I was incredulous at first when the other guy told me he liked it. I can't believe anyone could like it. I now know that he really does so I believe you. As unbelieveable as that may sound.
  5. I understand now. I'm happy of that mistake too then.
  6. I saw two drawings with the pintles inline and one where they appear not to be. I suspect he'll have to reconcile some views to make things work properly. She'll make a nice little boat when done though.
  7. That's an issue you would face in a full sized ship as well. If you haul the ratlines taught between each shroud, you'll tend to pull the masts out of alignment. If you leave them slack (as they should be) you shouldn't run into any trouble like that. If the shrouds are properly tensioned, you'll find that loose ratlines should not pull it out of alignment.
  8. Thanks, That's exactly what I was trying to see. I was looking for a clear shot of your cutwater. It looked like there were two, an inner and outer. Just wanted to see if that was the case. Why did you put two? Or was it just how the construction came out?
  9. Nenad, Could you take some closeups of the bow of your model? I'm curious how you did it. Thanks, Daniel
  10. OH, I must have missed that part. I saw you turning that one but wasn't sure if it was the same one that you showed later with the ring and eyebolt together. Thanks.
  11. Nicely done. How do you think you'll go about fixing that slightly bendy mast? Hot water?
  12. Would a ship's stove like that have carried small pots like you've got? I would have figured nothign smaller than a giant stock pot type pot since they're feeding hundreds...... The workmanship you've demonstrated is wonderful. I look forward to seeing more of it.
  13. Jakob, Do you know the boat? Or are you just interested in any cutter of that type?
  14. Those guns..... Incredible weapons. My neighbour served in a minesweeper clearing the beaches for the D day landings. I can't seem to get him to tell me much about his days at war but the sound of those truly big guns shooting overhead to bombard the beaches prior to the landings must have been just awesome.
  15. I am in awe of your craft. It's a whole other art to building in plastic or wood. Kudos on your work. I have a question about the ringbolts. You seem to have the bolt and eye attached. Without some David Copperfield trickery, how do you get the ring onto the bolt? Is it carved there or do you have to somehow close the eye of the bolt onto the ring after they are connected? I don't see any joint lines in the rings......
  16. What a beautiful hull shape she has.
  17. I wonder if you could put it in the research section on specific ships? Then we can all contribute to it. Maybe someone in Greenwich who happens to visit the ship can take a picture of an item that's missing or not shown. We could this way expand the collective knowledge of her as people find out more stuff. Of note, you have "scupper" in there but show pictures of an eyebolt at one point. The C plans have scuppers indicated though. Just something I noticed. Scuppers are holes for drainage (smaller than the 6 big square freeing ports each side).
  18. Could you place it on it's permanent stand after coppering so you don't damage her copper once it's done? I envision two turned posts between the keel and some sort of board. You'll want it big enough to support the model but also big enough to accept the glass case. No reason why it couldn't be smaller for now and replaced with a full sized one once you're done rigging her and ready to put her in a glass case.
  19. I have a boat boom on my Cutty Sark that needs some straightening as well. I think I'll try boiling it.
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