Sailor1234567890

Beautiful.

Simply amazing. I think I'd resort to a 3D printer for that kind of thing. Does a 3D printer even print to that level of detail?

That connection you refer to at the keel is where these discussions of "rabbet" and "Garboard strake" come in. The rabbet is the groove cut in the keel, stem and sternpost to accept the garboard strake (or the butt ends on the stem and hood ends on the sternpost). That part where Nenad says you have to cut of the corner of the plank so that the plank fits smoothly.... Well in a real construction you would not cut off the planking. I think he mentions having a thin plank and difficult to pin becuase it's so thin. That is exactly why you cut a rabbet. Instead of removing the material from the plank, you remove it from the keel or stem/stern posts. The plank should remain square. The garboard strake is the first plank up against the keel followed by what are called the first board and second board. Those are the next two planking strakes in the hull. Here is a link to a page that shows how odd the shape of the keel and garboard planks are. They mesh together perfectly though so that each can be bolted together and kept tight. http://njscuba.net/artifacts/obj_hull_steel.html Here is a site with a cross section of our lady's keel. http://hnsa.org/conf2004/papers/davies.htm Scroll down and you'll see a cross section of her keel. It's quite clear how the keel rabbet works once you look at the pictures. As for the stem and stern rabbets..... Here is a page from Duck trap. They've got a lot of good stuff. If you take a look at the information on this page, you'll see that the stem rabbet transisions into the keel rabbet then into the stern rabbet. It's one long groove running from the top of the stempost down the stem, along the keel and back up the sternpost. Along the keel, the plank rests along it's length in the rabbet. On the stem and sternpost, the plank ends (known as hood and butt ends) rest in the rabbet. http://www.duck-trap.com/building.html In really high quality ship construction, Cutty Sark included, the ends of each individual plank were capped with a metal cap before being installed. This kept water out of the endgrain of the plank. I can't imagine anyone modeling these caps though. I hope this little tidbit of information has helped you understand exactly what it is you're doing. One last book that may help out is this one: http://www.amazon.ca/Wooden-Ship-Building-Charles-Desmond/dp/0911572376 It should clear up all wood ship construction questions anyone may have.

It goes very well by the looks of things. Look forward to all the remaining updates on this build.

You have two books that are excellent for her. As Nenad said, get George F. Campbell's plans from the museum gift shop. They'll ship them to you. They aren't very expensive. You get detailed drawings of just about everything you could possibly want to know about the ship's external features and much of her internal as well. POB construction means her internals will not really be very important to you anyway. Her rig, decorations, layout etc is all in those three precious peices of paper. There's a drawing by Max Millar I think of her showing from her stbd quarter somehwat above her with cutaway views into the hold. It's a pretty good drawing as well though not as much detail can be gleaned from it as from the Campbell drawings. Lou mentioned some drawings from out his way, I have yet to see them or order them. I intend on it though before I start another CS. (I think I'm sick, I only want to build CS....) Try to find a copy of Basil Lubbock's Log of the Cutty Sark. It's one of the best books out there about the ship. It is filled with all sorts of details about her construction and her time at sea during her career until she ended up as a training ship on the Thames at the nautical college. Of course the internet is good for research as well. Plus post here. We'll all do our best to answer any questions you may have about her.

Ditto, beautiful work.

That being said, Gil's coils are great. They are even and look realistic. That is what I would go for. Coils of the same length no matter the diameter of the line. The bulk of coil being varied to account for the length of line needed for the line being represented and the thickness of the line. Make the coil fast to the pin in the same fashion for each line and you'll have a realistic looking ship model. Decide if you want locking turns over the pin or not and stick with it. I always use a single locking turn over the pin but in modeling it, I can't imagine the PITA it would be to put that locking turn over each coil. I might be inclined to skip the locking turn.

JSGerson, I wouldn't bother trying to model those coils like that. They are purely decorative and no sailing ship would have them unless they had visitors coming aboard. Dignitaries, VIPs etc. They tend to keep moisture and rot the deck beneath them if they are left there. They are "yachty" and most sailors wouldn't have them on their boats. I wouldn't. I see that HMS Victory has them in that first picture but I also see things about how her lines are made fast that makes my spidey senses tingle. Those coils would not have been so different. Yes, there are different sizes and lengths of line meaning that there would have been bigger coils and smaller coils. Not longer, just bulkier. The Bosn and the 1st Lieutenant would have made sure that all coils were made the same way. There are many ways to make up a coil but usually they boil down to the right way, the wrong way, my way or the highway. "My way" was the 1st Lieutenants way and that's how the whole ship would have been done. That's my experience anyway. The lines in those pictures were clearly done by many different riggers on the job with little to no common oversight as to how they were done. In a working ship in the RN in those days, you can be assured that the coils would all have been the same length and made fast to the pin the same way. To add a locking turn or not is generally a matter of personal preference. I prefer to put one locking turn on over the coil rather than simply place the loose coild over the pin. The only difference you'd see being the thickness of the rope and length coiled to vary how much bulk of line there was on the pin. Each line needed to be free to run at a moment's notice so coils that have hitches around the coil would certainly never have been permitted. At least, certainly not if it was done "my way".

Is it the lead of the line from one sheave to the next? Doesn't seem lined up to be fair for the line to avoid chafing against the corners involved.

Bugra, Seems you are only the second individual I have ever heard of that actually enjoys sanding. I was incredulous at first when the other guy told me he liked it. I can't believe anyone could like it. I now know that he really does so I believe you. As unbelieveable as that may sound.

I understand now. I'm happy of that mistake too then.

I saw two drawings with the pintles inline and one where they appear not to be. I suspect he'll have to reconcile some views to make things work properly. She'll make a nice little boat when done though.

That's an issue you would face in a full sized ship as well. If you haul the ratlines taught between each shroud, you'll tend to pull the masts out of alignment. If you leave them slack (as they should be) you shouldn't run into any trouble like that. If the shrouds are properly tensioned, you'll find that loose ratlines should not pull it out of alignment.

Beautiful work.

Thanks, That's exactly what I was trying to see. I was looking for a clear shot of your cutwater. It looked like there were two, an inner and outer. Just wanted to see if that was the case. Why did you put two? Or was it just how the construction came out?

Awesome job. I hope I can do as well.

Nenad, Could you take some closeups of the bow of your model? I'm curious how you did it. Thanks, Daniel

OH, I must have missed that part. I saw you turning that one but wasn't sure if it was the same one that you showed later with the ring and eyebolt together. Thanks.

Nice work. Look forward to seeing more of it.

Charts in the chart room.... I like that idea....

Nicely done. How do you think you'll go about fixing that slightly bendy mast? Hot water?

Would a ship's stove like that have carried small pots like you've got? I would have figured nothign smaller than a giant stock pot type pot since they're feeding hundreds...... The workmanship you've demonstrated is wonderful. I look forward to seeing more of it.

Jakob, Do you know the boat? Or are you just interested in any cutter of that type?

Those guns..... Incredible weapons. My neighbour served in a minesweeper clearing the beaches for the D day landings. I can't seem to get him to tell me much about his days at war but the sound of those truly big guns shooting overhead to bombard the beaches prior to the landings must have been just awesome.

I am in awe of your craft. It's a whole other art to building in plastic or wood. Kudos on your work. I have a question about the ringbolts. You seem to have the bolt and eye attached. Without some David Copperfield trickery, how do you get the ring onto the bolt? Is it carved there or do you have to somehow close the eye of the bolt onto the ring after they are connected? I don't see any joint lines in the rings......