Sailor1234567890
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Everything posted by Sailor1234567890
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I'd say the beer as well. -
I sailed in Saskatoon and Moncton way back about 10 years ago for 6 weeks or so each time. I see from the flat bottom to the model, you won't be modelling her underbody will you? She has twin azipod thrusters and was fitted for but not with (means designed to have but we cheaped out) bow thruster. Very manoeuvrable little vessels but not as fast as we'd like.
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Just saw this now. A couple of points. First, the waterline by the bow is not pointed like you show it. It's very much rounded. Second, I'm living at CFB Esquimalt for a couple of months and could go take pictures of any of the west coast MCDVs for you if you need detailed shots of something. (Security concerns meaning I can't go photograph everything of course). Your model has 700 which is Kingston. We call them the Kingston class, MCDV, Reserve boats, McDivs and probably a few other names I can't think of right now. I haven't sailed in one in about 9 years now but I could probably help you with details of things like deck fittings and layout. What setup will you be rigging her in? Minesweeping? Training accommodations? With sweep gear?
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Sailor1234567890 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Looking good Nenad. -
Cutty Sark by NenadM
Sailor1234567890 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I think the left one in the pic of the two stuck in the foam is the nicer of the two. Great job Christopher Columbus. -
Another disadvantage to steel wool is that it can cause rust streaks. Bronze is the way to go I think. More costly but worth it IMHO.
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Wow, That's impressive. Looking forward to seeing more of this.
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Go easy on the staining and dirt on the sails. A ship at sea has her white cloth sails out in the bleaching sun all day long. It's often easy to tell who has been at sea a while and who's been alongside by how white the sails are on the ship that's been at sea. The royal navy was often able to tell if the ship on the horizon was french by the fact that here sails hadn't been bleached by the sun. Your ship looks magnificent though. The more I look at these projects you people are working on, the more I'm inclined to say that I haven't the patience for it, I should stick with 1:1 scale…...
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Beautiful.
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Interesting that they wouldn't address this in the kit.
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Motors? This unloading system won't have functioning parts will it?
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I look forward to seeing that cross section. I am in awe over your build so far.
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Looks like a fun project though. Enjoy it.
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You can also very easily see that garboard strake is very much triangular in shape, just as I mentioned in my last post here. It makes planking the hull up much easier. You can also see another facet of wooden ship/boat construction. The planking doesn't necessarily start at the bottom and work to the top or vice versa. You can start mid way and plank the hull in sections. In larger ships, this would allow several gangs of plankers to work at once. One gang might start at the top and work down, another at the bottom and work up. On particularly large ships, there may even be a third gang planking in the middle. They will meet part way and close up the last space with what is known as a "shutter plank". This was normally followed by a shutter plank party. Alcohol may be invovled. A modern builder prefers to use shutter planks everywhere so he builds by planking every second plank then putting "shutter planks" between each of the already installed planks. Sounds kind of odd to me but it works for him.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Sailor1234567890 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I was going to include the caveat that ships are not always built as the specifications call for but simply forgot as I composed the text. Lou is absolutely correct. We are lucky with this ship as we have her with us and can measure her to our heart's content. Thanks for clarifying Lou. -
It would appear he does have the qualifications.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Sailor1234567890 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Lubbock's book Log of the Cutty Sark has the original build contract included at the back. I know the dimensions of just about every structural part are included in there. Here's a copy online of the contract. I emailed Mr. Sankey before Christmas. He must be very old by now but he responded very quickly to my enquiries. http://web.ncf.ca/bf250/willis.html Hope this helps everyone.- 4,152 replies
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The crosshairs would not be visible from the lense up there. It would be painted on the lenses lower down in the periscope.
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One of the reasons I love sailing so much is the self sufficiency aspect of it. The reason I like to build my own boats is that if I'm stuck somehwere, damage of some sort, I know that because I built the boat, I can fix anything on it. That, to me, adds to the self sufficiency aspect of sailing. I am seeing more and more on this site that model builders have the same "I can fix anything" attitude and I really like it. Good job on the repair, I can't see it either.
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I know our shells have different identifying stripes painted on them. High explosive, fragmenting, dummy blanks etc. I'd presume that hers did as well. A bit of research would be in order I think.
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The plank shape was dependant in a great part on what the builder had available at the time of construction. He would lay out his planks to make best use of the material on hand. I know of one famous shipwright (Larry Pardey) who planked his boat (Taleisen) starting with a triangular garboard. The garboard he used was made of the widest board he had. It was a (relatively) short board and only went part of the length of the keel. (Small vessel of 30 feet) and the first broad (plank next to the garboard) was also build like this. In begining his planking in this fashion, he was able to thin the remaining planks at the after end of the boat to use the narrower boards he had. Made planking the rest of the boat easier as well. All this to say that lining off (deciding how each plank will go) when done well can make planking the hull much easier and allow the builder to better use the wood available to him. If he were building two identical boats, they may not be planked identically because wood isn't all identical. Lining off is an art. If well done, the boat looks great and the job goes well. When poorly done, the lines show up clearly and it can look pretty bad. Lapstrake construction will accentuate the poorly lined off hull. Your hull looks great to me. Keep at it. I'm loving the progress on her.
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The margin plank was not necessarily built of the same material as the deck. Decks were usually made of teak. That's no guarantee that Sherbourne's deck was teak but odds are. The margin plank served to add strength. It wasn't necessarily made of the same material as the deck. Often times it was of a thicker material than the deck. This provided extra strength. Strength was in issue in this area and the use of a stronger wood was often a way to provide that added strength required. Don't feel bad about the colour being different. Odds are it was different. It looks good, I'd continue with what you have. Keep it up. Looks great to me.
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Would the sheaves have been blackened? I think it's a step that could safely be skipped. The sheave is a working part, the line passes over it all the time. It's constantly "polished" by the line passing over it. I think it would be perfectly acceptable to keep it shiny in there. Would add a little something to the model instead of just blackening it and making it disappear in the shadows.... Just a thought. Looking great and enjoying your progress.
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Vivian, I don't know about 15th century latin vessels however I do know that lining up the deadeyes would be a point of pride in 19thC. Ships. They are set up then lined up and adjusted. It is a task that has to happen from time to time until the stretch is out of the shrouds. They way it was done was to bend one end of a handy billy (small protable block and tackle) to the end of the shroud and the other end part way up the shroud. Then by heaving on the purchase, you could tighten the shroud around the deadeye. Once it was adjusted to tension, the shroud was made fast such that the deadeye was lined up with the others in the gang of shrouds. Also, they used a sheer pole. I don't know if such a beast existed in the type of ship you are building but it served to help keep the deadeyes lined up as well as keeping them from twisting. Hope this helps. Great job you're doing there.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Sailor1234567890 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Sorry to hear that Nenad. Just keep your nose to the grindstone. You'll pull through.- 4,152 replies
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