Beef Wellington
-
Posts
2,245 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Beef Wellington
-
Glad I stumbled onto your build Mike, very interesting to see how these 'scratch' kits are supplied. You're doing a great job, look forward to seeing more.- 939 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- hahn
- oliver cromwell
- (and 1 more)
-
Really nice progress Ben, I always marvel at the fully framed builds....
-
Looks fabulous Joe, good call on the bell and nice rework on the windlass.
- 302 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- granado
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Thats exactly how I'm planning to handle it Stergios
-
JPett - I think this is one of the more challenging areas of these builds, I probably going through similar pains with my 'Jason' stern. I've been thinking through the same problem long and hard. My suggestion would be to bite the bullet and try to cut a rabbet basing it on where the sternpost would be. It might be a bit trickier doing it now, but it is possible (I had to make some adjustments myself with bulkheads already on), and I suspect would make life easier in the long run.
-
I have a very high tech solution, I taped two large newspaper sheets together and then draped over the top of the masts like a tent. The air dusters work great as well as Jim points out.
-
Hi Mike - can't help at all, but can tell you you are not alone in your dilemma, I'm having similar challenges. I also have some pear for the coamings which seems nice to work with but I'm not sure I'm a huge fan of the 'pinkish' hue against other woods - you live and learn I suppose. I am tempted to stain or paint then black (which don't think was an uncommon practice) but I'm also will still be using paint as well on the the ship itself. A look that I do like is the almost monotone deck/coaming/grating look on admiralty models. Looking forward to seeing what you decide.
-
Mobbsie, Carl - I'm sorry to disappoint, but there really are no updates. I have looked in longingly to the shipyard for some weeks now but have been staring in longingly! I've completely blown my timeline I was hoping to have 'Jason' at least first planked by now and then move back to Snake to hopefully get her closer to completion over the Winter. Stergios - I'm sure you can manage it, think if you follow the plans you'll do just fine. Just as a suggestion you could get going with the standing rigging if you have the masts completed - that should give you plenty of time to think about your approach on the yards
- 800 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- snake
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Stergios - no hole was drilled for the sling cleats, the hole was for some wire in the back of the yard that will attach to the mast.
-
Looking sharp Jim!
-
The metal parts were all from the kit - I did use some styrene strips to replace the white metal ring around the yard as it seemed a little overscale to me. (All the rings are to some degree, but I was satisfied using the parts I did)
-
. I've seen a couple of isolated pics as well Mike, I would have to assume they are copyright infringements.
-
They are the sling cleats and yes, you do need to make these up yourself. Think I cute these from some spare 4x1mm planking.
-
Sjors - to be sure I understand your question, I think you are referring to the plates fixed on forward and after surfaces of the bow and sternpost (?), thats what I see in your photos. The only place I found a diagram of was in the AOTS book "HMS Pandora". This shows the horizontal copper plates bending round the faces. I did my Snake exactly the same as you, as the solution is the simplest, and it also give you a nice edge, I thought at the time that the copper plates were too thick to be able to give a sharp enough 90 degree bend. That could look good using thinner tape maybe.
-
Mike - I'm not sure that the planking terminating into the king plank is entirely period appropriate. The planks should curve, but terminate at the margin plan, not the king plank as per the photo which I think is a more modern configuration. I've also not seen a king plank used on the upper deck of a ship of this type/period. Would be happy to be contradicted by those more knowledgeable.
-
Petersson is excellent, I would also recommend "The young Sea Officer's sheet anchor" by Darcy Lever, both are the right time period for Snake - both a good value for money.
-
I like those photoetch quarter-irons Nils - they seem much more to scale appropriate than the Caldercraft white metal pieces. You did a very nice job on them.
-
Mr Vault-Tec is a good looking guy!
-
Mark, been a while since I checked in, wonderful to see what you are doing. Licorne makes a nice change to the usual suspects.
-
Caldercrafts Snake - Register For Updates?
Beef Wellington replied to Kitzilla's topic in Wood ship model kits
Kitzilla, hope you get a build log going. As Jim mentioned, there are a few of us building the Snake and more are always welcome. We'll provide as much insight as we can, it helps being familiar with a specific kit, so pretty confident one of us can answer any question you have on the parts or other foibles that all of the kits have. -
Cheers Alistair - honestly I went back a forth on this for a while, the instructions mention both methods. I'm hoping that planking off the ship will give me just a bit more elbow room to deal with some of the fiddly details (i.e. the margin plank which I'm still figuring out) which I think would be a real pain to do on the ship due to interference from the frames and 1/2 deck beams. I don't think that the planked deck should be too much of a problem to glue in place once complete as its still reasonably flexible. I'll definitely plank the quarterdeck and forecastle on the ship when I get there as there should be so much less in the way.
-
Small progress, I've at least committed to the approach I'll take on the deck planking. Nothing too exciting, but I will install a margin plank which I haven't done before,even though this will barely (if at all) be seen. I've decided to try planking off the ship to make this a little easier. Worst case, it will be good practice for the quarterdeck and forecastle, but I do hope to leave the option open to leave some of the fo'csle gratings off so a little more can be seen. I've used the placement of the deck beams per AOTS to determine where the planks terminate. The margin plank curve was estimated from laying a plank along the interior bulwark and tracing the shape on the false deck. Still early days, but no major hiccups yet...
-
Is there any reason that Caldercraft kits are not included in the database?
-
Stergios - you are correct. Think I posted a bit about this in my log, you may want to check the size of the PE "end caps" before determining the diameter at the end of the yard. I'm not sure they are really necessary though. Sorry, can't really provide much more info, you seem to be on the right track.
-
Robhvw, you got her. She was originally commissioned into the Royal Navy in February 1943 as HMS J-826, a minesweeper and assigned to active service in the Mediterranean Sea, based in Malta. Subsequently served as a ferry for a brief spell and was then significantly modified for undersea research by Jacques Cousteau where she became famous. Its hoped she will be refurbished and modernized, shes in a pretty sorry state after a collision with a barge in Singapore which caused her to sink.
Our Emblem ®
