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SMS Danzig 1851 by Gerhardvienna - Radio - 1:50 scale

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Hi to All

As I mentioned in my introduction thread, I`m building a model of the SMS DANZIG from the prussian navy. How did I get to this ship? I was on a search for a not too small paddleship, if possible a warship, and after a while of searching in the www. I saw what I was looking for. The original ship was about 76 Meters long, and had 2 steam-engines as well as full rigging as a corvette. But: there ae absoluley no plans to get, so I had to make a decision, how to do it. The only plan that comes close to the DANZIG is from the russian Vladimir, and by great luck i could get one set of them. The only smaller problem was, the russian ship is about 10 meters shorter than the prussian, so I had to stretch the plans. But things went well, the rest I have still to do, is to redraw some parts, as the wheel houses for example.

But now to the real build. The model will have two steam engines, the plans were drawn from Mr. Georg Held and me, here is a short video from the prototype:

an I will make the full rigging, as it was shown at a drawing from John Scott Russel, see the pic below.



I started with some accessories, as I always do, the first thing was the steering wheels.


As a first step to make the wheels, I printed a template on normal paper, cut that into triangles, and glued them to the wood, I used smoked oak wood for the wheels



The wood was then cut into triangles, and glued together as a octagon. This was set into the milling machine, and the holes for the spokes were drilled.



The octagons are then tightend into the lathe, and turned to round at the outside. Important: Always use a wooden shim as a rest for the octagons, they will break fast, if you forget that!



Then the center parts are turned on the lathe



The next step is not easy to do, the inner shape of the rim needs to be turned. ALWAYS glue some thin Plywood on both sides of the rims, this must be grinded away later. Turn this yery careful, the rings are tending to break, if you are too fast!



Now the finished rings need to be cut in halves, so the spokes and centers can be mounted, and glue the complete set together.




Will be continued................




PS.: As this is a review, there is a lot more to show, until we come to the presence!

Edited by Gerhardvienna
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Just take place folks!

There is much more to come, I have made until now almost 400 pics, next things will come tomorrow. It was a long way before I could start, I had a over 2 years time to spend for research. But its on the way now, and will continue. This project is planned as a long time project, not under 4 years of building. The engine was built by Hartmut, a close friend to Georg, I do have the full set of plans and will make my own set of two engines. Also the boilers will be drawn and built from me, there will be two boxed boilers with circa 1 liter volume each, and feeding pumps for extra long driving time. So there is a lot of work to do, get some time, coffee and a Sacher Torte :D 

Best regards


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Ready for a bit more??

Take your seats, no belts required! But food and drinks should be there, this will be a long way :D .............

You`r all welcome :)


One important step was to turn the spokes for the steering wheels, I did it with Archjofo`s trick. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1029-la-cr%C3%A9ole-by-archjofo-scale-148-french-corvette-of-1827-scratch-build/page-29and I have made a short video to this method. SORRY for the not so great quality, this is done with a very cheap camcorder from TV-commercial :(  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaSHWI8qp8s

And the steering stand was done as well, the wheels will follow the rudder when the ship turns! I will have to make some kind of mechanics! But that is for the future.......... 


The guiding tube, one cutout is measured for better understanding



All 16 spokes turned



The steering stand is made from 4 pieces of 6 x 5 mm oak wood. They were glued together in pairs, and turned in the lathe.




turned to round, and the slightley grinded with a file (sorry again for bad pic quality)




The turned stands, holds removed and axle holes drilled




The stand completed



See you soon, there is even more to show!

Best regards








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Hi Keith

You are welcome! But it will take some time until I can start with the engine build, but there is so much more I have finished at the moment, as I wrote above, there are almost 400 pics made from current stages, including the gun carriages, the cooks house,(it would take me weeks to write about everything). Before I start with the engines I will build the hull, and the full removable deck, masts and rigging. The gunbarrels will be casted from low-temperature metal, no part will be bought as as ready-to-assambly part. So i will have to learn a lot by doing things I`ve never done before, and also report some misfortune by times.




Edited by Gerhardvienna
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Back again for a bit more review

First of all, THANK YOU for your so many spended Likes :)

Next things to do were the gun carriages. The DANZIG had 12 pivot guns of three different weights on board, all in 20,4cm caliber. The weights were 95 - 60 - and 52 hundredweights.



First to build was the upper carriages, they are made from birch wood of 3mm thickness, milled as 4 pairs at once, and then glued together in a glueing form





After glueing this parts I drawed some photo etched parts and gave them to the etching fabric, all blue drawn parts are for that.



When the etched parts were ready, I had to bend some of them for mounting them to the carriages, most of the parts were for the largest upper carriages. They have lifters at the rear, and they even work in my model carriages. 






Also the pivot carriages are "ready for use" on deck, when this is built, some brass parts are not etched, but handmade. All eyelets are made from 0,5mm brass sheet, or from 0,3mm brass wire. Every single part that is shown in the drawings is mounted to the carriages, so I can rig them in original way at the ship.




This was only shown in a very short form, requests and critics are always welcome!


Best regards








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Beautiful detail work. Thank you for sharing with us. Keep the post and pictures coming.


Hi Joe

That`s what i will do, some more explanations will follow, when my pics at. There are some tricks I used to keep the mechanics for the carriage-lifters working. This pictures will come in the next post, till then




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So well, here comes a bit more to watch

How did i keep the lifter mechanics work?  I use a small piece of baking paper between the brass parts, so I can avoid, that the parts I need to move free are solderd to the fixed things. But see the pics.............


One set for one lifter, just the wheel missing



Lifter mounting plate before soldering



All 8 plates soldered



Lever soldering to the axle, the axle is "invisible", it sits deep in the balsa wood plate



Soldering the lever to the lifter arms, use baking paper between arms and mounting plate!! Best to use double sided paper, no need to search for the "right" side!



Lifter completed for one side of carriage



Mounted lifter on gun carriage



Best regards






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Hi Joe

Thank You....

and thank you all for your likes :D


Today is a bit less pictures, just the recoil brakes for the upper carriages. They are made from photo-etched parts and M 0,6 hexnuts. I have ordered some 1 x 0,5mm brass stripes with around 25 mm of length, they were bend around  a piece of wood with 6 x 10mm. Then the brake bar was soldered to the frame, and as last step the hexnut soldered to the upper side. All breaks work fine,  they will be fitted to the carriages, when they are painted.


Braking bar soldering to frame




Hexnut M0,6 soldering to frame




24 brakes for 12guns



Mounted to upper carriage just for a test



Most important is at this work, to keep the threads clean. I use normal needles, and stick them as hard as possible into the threads. but even with that I ruined some of the nuts, maybe 5 or so. So; best to order some more than you think you need, you will use them...................


Best regards



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Hello again, and thank you for your nice likes!

Today I will continue with some of the fittings. The SMS Danzig had pivot-guns abord so there were a lot of fittings to make. The pivot bolts are turned in the  lathe, made fron 3mm diameter brass. The handles are made from 0,3mm coppered iron wire from christmas hooks :). So you can see, materials for our hobby are everywhere to find!


Pivot bolts in the lathe, first turn the shaft, then the heads





Then 2 grooves were filed into the heads, and the wire was bend



Sodering the wire to the bolts heads



Then the bolts were filed to their final shape




Also the pivot seats had to be made, I had ordered some photo etched plates, and took  a piece of brass tube 2 x 1mm, cut that to a lenght of around 10 mm, and soldered them together, see the pics.....


Photo etched plates and brass tube



Soldering the pivot seats, the lower silver part of the soldering form is made from aluminium, the thorn was made from stainless steel, this will not solder to the brass parts!



All seats are soldered, but OH MY GOD(!!!!! :o ) All of the small holes are closed now!



So I had to reopen all the holes, took a needle and had work for hours.................



Best regards









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All those little holes? That must have been very frustrating. Nice work, though.



Hi druxey


YES! ALL of this little holes. They are needed to mount the pivot seats to the deck, and I will do that the right way with handmade nails. But as this is just a review, we will see the production of the nails a bit later, when it comes to present times.


Hi Nils


Thank you :)

There are a lot more of mass production parts, must sort my pics out for the next posts. Just for the guns were around 200 photo etched parts drawn and ordered, see the drawing in post #10. All the blue marked parts were redrawn by me and ordered at http://www.0mobau.de/index.php?cPath=27&osCsid=6rqn4eikc62e5pqfpjgmc0q033. My lathe is an old Hobbymat from Eastern Germany, works well after about 20 years of use!




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As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.


The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through




The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat




Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape




As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.



Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.





back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............




Edited by Gerhardvienna
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Hi John


Thank you, until now I have only made the easy things, some more of that is still coming. I have at the time no possibility for the modelships, I`m doing my home improvement. The living room must be renovated, and my store also, so all i can show at the moment is done weeks and months ago. The "hard" stuff will follow, when improvement is finished, then I will start with the hull, deck, masts & rigging. Even the gun barrels must be made, so it`s alot to do still. But I have even more for the review, next things will follow tomorrow.




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As we go on with the review, here come the next few parts

First the eyelets on the bottom of the lower carriages, they are simple soldered brass parts.






Also the front wheels had to be made. The wheels are turned from 4mm brass rod, they measure 3,8mm diameter, and width of 3mm, the axels are 0,8 x 0,8 mm.



Uper carriage prepared for wheel mounting, the upper holes are drilled a bit larger. This is necessary to set the holder plates at a correct angle.



Mounting setn for one side wheel mount: 2 holders, 2 screws & nuts M0,6, 1 roller. The small brass tube was used as a wrench. The tube was slightly flattened, then I use a really small amount of silicone for sanitary use inside the tube, and fixed the hexnut into it. This holds the nut as long as it is needed, and releases it when all is fixed.



Right side done.



Both front whhels mounted, all that was made for 12 gun carriages.................


Best regards, thank you for all your "likes", and comments :10_1_10:






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Hello Mark


Thank you!

This serial works must be done, but it`s never boring for me. It takes hours to produce all that stuff, but the original guns had it, so it must be there at the models.


And now to something completley different :o ...........................


Not only brass parts are done, some wodden things too are ready for the deck. First is the capstan, I used some "scrap" wood for that little thing. Spill 000 DANZIG.pdf Whoever wants to build it, please feel free to download the pdf file, it is in 1: 50 measure by printing out in original size.


Round turning of a piece of pear wood, also boxwood would be good for that.



After turning drill a hole over full length, I used a 3mm drill for that step, What the hole is needed for, will be shown a bit later.



All parts printed out from the pdf, and used as templates. The printouts were glude to wood in named thickness




All parts were cut out and grinded/sanded to their final shape




Lower parts assaebled




Thick upper disc mounted



The head disc with cutouts for inlay work, some of the inlays shown in second pic on right side




Inlays glued to disc, then sanded very careful. Inlays are just 1/10th mm thick




This was the first part for the capstan build, will be continued a bit later.............


Thanks for watching and your many likes :)






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I enjoy the walk through, keep the post and pictures coming. 


Just on the way.....................

Thank you all for watching, especially to Tadeus43: I plan to bring the model to Gdansk for the ships 170th anniversary, in late 2021, if I`m ready with the build! She MUST see "her own" water!


So, here comes the next parts of the capstan.


Head disc layed on top for a test



Now it comes to the center hole. A brass tube of 3 mm outer diameter is set into the hole, the tube must fit with strength, this is important for the next step! Upper end of the tube sits equal with head of the capstan without the head disc. No worry about the cleaves, they are hidden later with the head disc!




Capstan is clamped to the late`s chuck for a last grinding. This step gives the correct shape to the different discs, especially the lower disc must be a bit bevelled.




Now the head disc is glued to the capstan, the center hole is closed with a piece of  toothpick.



The next four pics show the former progress. I took stripes from black cardboard and glued them into the square holes






Also the iron rings around the head are made from cardboard.





Edited by Gerhardvienna
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Hi Paul


Thank you, and all others for your nice likes!


The inlay work was the first, I have ever made. It took me more than only one attempt, to make it, but it was worth that work. The gun carriages had so many small parts, even this took a lot of time, but they had it all on the original guns. Even the barrels will be detailed, more about that, when I will cast them.

Well, here comes the last part of the capstan, the spokes.


I used 2mm round toothpicks as basic material and cutted them to 60mm length



Then I glued small pieces of 2mm thick plywood to them



12 Spokes made



A little test, they fit!



As last step painted the square ends with black



Next to show is the cookhouse, a lot of pics...................




Edited by Gerhardvienna
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Hello once more..............

As I wrote above, here comes the first part of the cookhouse. This will take longer than the things before, it was the largest part I made for the SMS Danzig until now. As KOCH 1895 wrote, the ship had no deckhouses exept the cookhouse, see the yellow marked part at the page from "Beiträge zur Geschichte"


First thing to do was the stove. As I mentioned in the first post this thread, there are no plans to get, so I had to build the stove first, and then the house around it. Plans for stoves are to find at the danish Rigsarkivet https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/billedviser?epid=4782656#189070,31896806,around 130 different plans there! This includes also distillery ovens, for the preparing of "fresh" water out of sea (salt) water.


Started with a sheet of 0,3mm brass, marked the different cutouts, and drilled a lot of holes



The recangular cutouts were filed to their final size, and the different parts soldered together



The basic body of the stove, the plans from the Rigsarkivet above, not shure what plan I took...............

(Sorry for my short brains :rolleyes:!)



Different doors are soldered to the body




Baseplate and stands added



and finally all painted with black Revell paint, the paint was still wet as I took the picture, so it shines too much



Some pots and cans added, they are made from wood, the cans from boxwood, the rectangular pots from balsa. The handles are bended pieces from 0,3mm copper wire.



Regards & thanx for watching

Gerhard, have a nice day!






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