Anchor Hoy c. 1825 by Maury S - FINISHED - 1:48 - Harbor craft - POF

[Canute]

Try replacing the battery? Some of us need the bigger numbers.

[Maury S]

Over the last couple of days I've started making some sawdust.  For the rabbet on the keel, I started by making a .020 score with a slitting blade on my Byrnes Saw, then making a scraper from a safety razor blade (thanks Toni!) to finish it off.  I may deepen it just a bit.  The rising wood layout is glued to the 12 x 12 piece and again, using the Brynes saw and a sled, the notches cut (6" on top and 1.5" on the two sides).  The keel is 9" wide so the 1.5" side notches line up with the top of the keel.  Next the stem and stern posts.

Maury

Edited April 25, 2016 by Maurys

[Maury S]

Sternpost and inner sternpost are next.  Both are cut on the table saw and end-sanded using the 3.5 degree wedge to insure everything from the posts to the deadwood mate perfectly.  The inner post has a tenon that extends into a mortise in the keel.  The slots (for the filler transoms) in the inner post were made using the wedge so they align parallel with the keel.  The picture is of a discarded post since it was too short.  Second attempt was faster and cleaner.

Maury

[Maury S]

The stern posts and deadwood are attached to the keel as is the rising wood.  Rather than carve out shoulders on the deadwood for the half frames 13 - 16, I chose to build up with 1 1/2" (1/32") material.  The pattern was mirror-imaged in TurboCad (so both sides matched exactly), pasted to the 1/32" sheet and rough cut on the scroll saw.  The bottom and angled aft edge were sanded on the circular sander, held together in a vise and sanded / filed to the step pattern so they were identical.  They were then glued to the sides of the deadwood lining up with the top of keel and stern rabbet.  They will be pared down from the bearding line to the rabbets.  I don't see any draw-back to this technique as the deadwood thickness was sanded to accommodate the built-up steps before installation.  Total thickness with the shoulders matches the outside of the rising wood.

By the way, ever since I cut the slots in the rising wood, there has been a tendency for that piece to bend, so I've always clamped it and subsequently the whole keel structure to a flat surface and against a straight edge once I'm done working on it.  Once it's on the building board, that will no longer be an issue.  Now to the stem.

Maury

[mtaylor]

You're doing some nice work on stern, Maury.  I would think that laminating up rising wood and deadwood like you did would prevent bending/warping.   Thats a good way to make that area, In my opinion.  A lot less fiddly than chiseling.

[Maury S]

The stem has been assembled and is being clamped into the keel / rising wood.  The scarf joint at the upper end of the stem is barely visible even though it is glued with darkened glue. I have to clean up the rabbet at the joint.  The little extension at the bottom of the stem will disappear  when the false keel is added.

By the way, following EdT's glue "formula" I was not able to find artist powders so I bought the best acrylic color (paste-like) I could find, mixed with the Tite BondII and it was a disaster.  The mixture came out with tiny specks (think poppy seeds in a muffin) no matter how I mixed it.  Next step was to use red and green (makes brown) food coloring, mixing well and it came out great.  Chocolate milk colored while wet and dries darker.

The notches in the rising wood needed evening-out so I assembled a sanding jig to keep everything consistent.  A piece of 150 grit sandpaper on a 1/8" x 1/4" stock, glued to a scrap support piece to keep it parallel to the top of the rising wood.  The notches on the sides of the rising wood need some attention.

Maury

 

[mtaylor]

Maury,

 

I found some Williamsburg Dry Artist Pigment "Lamp Black" at a local art store.  Not Micheal's but one that specializes in paints, canvases, etc.

 

They do have a website: www.williamsburgoils.com   Phone:  607-847-8843

 

It works well using Elmer's Wood Glue per Ed's instructions on mixing.  

[Maury S]

Working on the stem and the rabbet.  To quote David..."fiddy work".  I keep referring to TFFM and Young America books.  Ed Tosti is a great source of ideas for tools, jigs, etc.  See braces for the bow below.  The wood dowels are tapped and are epoxied to the threaded rod (6-60).  The hole through the 1/4" Plexiglas is tapped.  The units will be screwed to the building board near the front and are fully adjustable to keep the stem plumb throughout the build.  The assembly twisted a bit (1/16+") so heat (hair dryer) was applied while it was clamped flat and everything is now back to flat (or plumb when vertical).

Maury

Edited May 4, 2016 by Maurys

[EdT]

Lovely work, Maury and thanks for the plug.  But..... one 's' in Plexiglas please. (Still guarding the trademark like a good former employee.)

 

Ed

[Maury S]

Ed, Fixed!

M

[Maury S]

I caught a problem!  The notches in the rising wood are off slightly (1/32" - 1/16") from the frames when the keel assembly is laid over the profile plan sheet.  There is no acceptable way to adjust for this.  The rising wood will be removed and replaced with another piece(s).  Isopropyl!

Maury

[Maury S]

The rising wood has been re-built and replaced the original.  Regardless of how the photos look, all the slots in the RW line up perfectly with the frame plan.  A jig was made (a dummy frame floor) to assure a snug fit (square to the keel) of the frames into the slots and that they will bed well.   Next is adding the remaining stem fillers between frame "E" and "G".

Maury

[druxey]

Glad the re-make worked out for you, Maurys!

Edited May 11, 2016 by druxey

[Maury S]

Back from vacation and back to the project.  I was hoping to see the models of anchor hoys that the Oslo Maritime museum had, but they were not on display and no one seemed to know much about them.  They were referenced in Robert Cairo's series in NR Journal back in the early 1970s.

   I laid out the parts for for frames C thru H and glued them on one sheet of 1/8" x  2"x 24"  boxwood using dilute white paste.  There are 24 frames in total so if things work out, I'll have all of them on 3 boards.  I could have pushed the pieces closer, but I like to have a bit extra width at the ends of each piece so I can see the  proper mating angle and having the end lines longer makes it easier to line up on the disk sander.

Maury

[Maury S]

The frames pieces have been cut out and sanded close to the lines.  I epoxied the retaining nuts for the 4-40 bolts that pass thru the keel assembly.  Next is setting everything up on the building board.  Holes were drilled to match the keel.  Per Ed Tosti's latest layout, I used a piece of 1/4" x 1/4" Plexiglas screwed along side the keel to keep it straight.  See picture.  I have some plan work to do on the filler transoms before I set the wing transom on top of the stern post.  The slots in the rising wood line up with the plan sheet...camera distortion.

Maury

[Nirvana]

Looks like you have it prefect aligned with frame #5 in center for the picture.

Like the idea of  using  plexiglas for alignment.

[Maury S]

The keel assembly is mounted on the shipways (building board) showing the adjustable plumb alignment brackets in place.  Any time I remove the boat from the board, I can be sure to get it lined up perfectly vertical when replaced.  Loosen the screws and they swing out of the way if I need to access the stem or stern posts.  This thing is in there so solid!  Once again, thanks EdT for the idea.

Maury

[druxey]

"Ve haf vays of keeping you vertical..." Those supports look like instruments of persuasion! However, they obviously do the job well. Good stuff!

[Landlubber Mike]

Very cool project Maury - it's nice seeing other subjects besides the usual 18th century gun vessels on here (I'm one to talk, I know!).  I followed your Fair American and Longboat builds, so I only have the highest expectations for this one - no pressure now!

[Maury S]

Thanks for the likes and comments.  Mike, those and the Echo Section from Admiralty (David and Greg) gave me the confidence to strike out with a project like this.

Maury

[vaddoc]

Great project and very nice work Maury! I am working on a similar but much simpler boat and my concern has been that although CAD lofting may seem ok, still during the actual planking fairing problems or impossible angles will show up. 

I will be following with great interest. 

[Maury S]

Between chores, I made the jig to hold the transom frames in place.  There is a piece of ply glued vertically to the horizontal jig.  It is a bit longer so there is room to clamp it to the square building board frames at the proper height once the wing and filler transoms are in place  I don't have any idea how else the transom frames could be firmly held in place to the top of the wing transom while the glue dries.

Maury

[Maury S]

DISASTER discovered!  I assembled the most forward frame (H) to see how everything lined up.  It was too narrow and did not line up with the Plan View on building board.  Measuring and going back over everything, I find that I drew the frames on the profile by copying a line 6" forward and 6" aft of the station lines.  I should have used the station line as the wider measure on the aft side of the forward frames and the fore side of the aft frames).  Bummer!  How to fix this?  There is practically no taper to the side of the boat from Frame A back to Frame 9.  On the other frames, half of the frame pieces would be OK, but how do I re-loft the others?

I'm going to think about it for a bit.

  Maybe just shifting the positioning of the frames forward (B - H) and aft (10 - 16) by the half-frame thickness (6")?  That means changing the "Profile plan" and "Plan View" and a new rising wood, but that's easier than re-lofting and cutting all the frame pieces.  Only variation will be the "space" between frames where I make the two transitions (probably at the dead flat).  Live and learn.  Thoughts?

Maury

Update.  It was only the foremost (H) and two aft most frames to be adjusted.  I did it correctly originally and probably played around on those three frames.  Minor revisions...not the biggie I feared.

Edited July 5, 2016 by Maurys

[druxey]

Often 're-makes' give fewer headaches down the road than 'fix-ups'. Those station lines are good reference points for other structures, but if you shift some of the frames and not others, you'll end up confusing yourself. If I may advise, the re-make route is the better one.

[Maury S]

I started the frame assembly using the alignment system EdT described in the YA posts.  I had some trouble perfectly aligning the frame parts for drilling the holes, even pre-tapping with a very fine awl.  Using the old double-stick tape and aligning the pieces seemed easier. 

I assembled Frame 16 (aft-most), inserted the connecting bolts (25 pound Black monofilament fishing leader "Amnesia") glued in place with CA.  All the parts for the transoms (Wing and FIllers) along with Frame 16 are shown in the next photo.  There are blocks on the tops of the two filler transoms insuring they remain level and equally spaced.  The Wing Transom is rounded up to match the deck and a pilot hole connecting it to the top of the stern post is drilled.   The filler transoms are flat and notched to connect with the front of the inner stern post.  Everything is test fitted.  The Filler Transoms to the stern post first, then Frame 16, which is aligned plumb and level with the aid of the square building board pieces and my trusty digital level, and finally the wing Transom on top with the bottom of the two sides at equal heights from the floor.  Once I check around to see if something else needs doing, I'll glue all the parts to the keel assembly.

Maury

 

[Nirvana]

Maury,

I have been looking at the angle measuring tool from Mikro-Mark (think this is in their RR section) so with other words, it works?!

[Maury S]

Dr. Per,

Yes, it's a great little tool.  You can re-set to relative zero, so it does not matter how tilted your work table is.  Everything is then level with the building board.

Maury

[Maury S]

I've bit the bullet and glued up the wing transom , filler transoms and frame 16 to the sternpost.  

I have a lot of braces, squares and clamps all maneuvered into place so the stern post is plumb, the frame is plumb and level and the transoms are level.  Cleaned off excess glue with a water brush and now just let it set up for a while.  Back to assembling frames.

Maury

[Maury S]

After five or six frames assembled the old fashioned way on double stick tape, I thought I'd see if I could retry Ed Tosti's control pin approach.  This time I did not use the awl to tap the holes.  My old Dumore Jewelers drill can be quite accurate if used properly so frame 2 is being assembled with control pins.  Even if I do not use a pin in each hole (ever so slight misalignment) I think it will work out.  We'll see after a couple more.

 

One problem has arisen with the frame pieces.  Even though they were cut from the same plan as the underlying master page, the floors are more than a line's width too long when placed on the "master".  Maybe the act of gluing them with water-based school paste stretched them a tad.  A touch on the disk sander fixes it.  I'm just surprised and did not anticipate that.

Maury

[druxey]

Good that you noticed cumulative error before it bit back, Maurys. With this type of construction one needs to check measure EVERYTHING!