Anchor Hoy c. 1825 by Maury S - FINISHED - 1:48 - Harbor craft - POF

[Roger Pellett]

Nice job!

 

Roger

[Nirvana]

Maury,

What a great idea using mono-filament as for simulated bolts.

How did you figure out the right amount of joints?

[Maury S]

Per, The joints are arranged on each spoke at the intersection of the ajacent spokes and gear and about half-way between spokes on the gear head.  The monofilament line idea comes from Ed Tosti's Naiad and Young America builds.  I've used two different sizes, depending on application.  They are dipped in CA, inserted, sliced off and wiped with acetone immediately.  Roger, thanks again for the mill reference.

Maury

[Maury S]

A bunch of little things.  The fore and aft below-deck platforms are completed and set in place (not glued yet).  The forward two sections of the water tank have been raised 15" since they do not interfere with the gear deck.  They now go up almost to the bottom of the main deck beams and raise the capacity of the two sections by about 35%. The added pieces still need to be oiled.

 

 

 

The gear deck beams and some planking have been laid down to check for clearance between the top of the gear and the bottom of the beams.  Just fits with about 1.5" to spare.

 

 

 

The capstans and partners will conceal some of the detail, but if Toni Levine can have a seaman lounging in hammocks on the lower deck of Atalanta, I can hide some work too.  Careful alignment of the gear-deck beams so the axle of the rear (small gear) does not interfere will be next.

Maury

[dgbot]

Very realistic Maury. How did you make it and what kind of wood?

David B

[Mike Y]

The new gear is super neat! Love the joints and their shapes. It is a piece of a pretty precision engineering!

[Maury S]

Thanks for the comments.  As I indicated earlier, I had Chuck Passaro cut the gears on his laser cutter from Box wood.  A fine job!  After comments about the weight and casting such a large piece, I was convinced the technology at the time supported a built-up wooden gear.  See the earlier post for the link to an English mill. (Thanks to Roger).  Think of mill wheels or wagon wheels.  It makes perfect sense.  Joints would have overlapped.   The gear turned out to be more interesting than a plain cast iron piece and since that's one of the big reasons for choosing this boat I am quite pleased with the decision to convert it to wood.

Maury

[Maury S]

While waiting on a few items, I've started drafting the spars.   I have the length of all spars, but no diameters.  "Scantlings of ...Navy Ships" by Yedlinsky has no details about spars.  I found some detail in "Merchant Sailing Ships 1775 - 1815" by MacGregor for a boat of similar length and breadth.  The Grice sketches show the main mast and bowsprit much beefier than those.  It's a sketch / drawing, not a lofted plan.  Any advise on interpreting? Do I compromise somewhere between those measurements considering the heavy duty purpose of the boat?  Tapering is another issue.  I've used TFFM mast info for the main.  Nothing about boom and gaff.  There must be ratios in some source, but I do not have a full version of Steel.

Maury

[EdT]

Maury, if you can get your hands on it, Steels Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging has the proportions of spars based on length, p. 49.  I won't copy it, but if you give me the spar list - I assume not too many - I will be glad to give you the proportions.

 

Crothers on Mastmaking also has the proportions.  Although the book covers a later period, the proportions did not change much and if I recall Crothers included Steel's proportions.

 

Ed

Edited December 2, 2016 by EdT

[Maury S]

Ed,

 Thanks, I sent you a PM.  I've ordered Crothers, but it's coming from the UK so it may be a while.

Maury

[Chuck]

try this

 

steele tables

 

Chuck

[Roger Pellett]

Maury,

 

I would like you to encourage to not use spar tables but to model the spars as shown on the drawings. There are two reasons for this:

 

First, the drawings are documentary evidence of the way this craft was intended to be built. They were carefully drawn, if not by Grice himself, than by a skilled marine draftsman who knew what he was doing. There is no reason that the rig and spar dimensions are any less accurate than other features shown on the drawings that you have incorporated into the model such as the gear arrangement or the hull lines.

 

Second, it is logical that the mast would be heavier than one shown in spar tables for a sloop of this size. Spars on an ordinary sailing vessel would be sized to support the sails. Thie mast on this vessel served as a derrick lifting very heavy loads like the anchor shown on the drawing. This would place a large bending moment on the spar. While the array of backstays was intended to counterbalance this, I believe that the mast would have been beefed up to resist these bending moments as well.

 

Roger

Edited December 3, 2016 by Roger Pellett

[Maury S]

Roger, Thanks.  I agree with your comments about the size of the main mast and intend to beef it up.  The main mast was not even used to support the main boom and sail.  The boat has a "Spencer mast" aft the main for that purpose.  Your insights are greatly appreciated and are being incorporated into my build. I think taper proportions would still apply.  Other elements of the drawings raise questions about the accuracy of the boat either as built or as planned.  An example is the diameter of the main capstan gear as shown in the profile sketch is larger than the internal breadth of the boat.  The bowsprit in the sketch seems grossly over-sized and that spar has no function in regard to the anchor hoisting...in fact, it was taken in when the great cat was in use.  This is turning out to be a more interesting project than I envisioned and I'm grateful for all the support and input I'm getting along the way.

Maury

[Maury S]

The water tank and the flat beams for the gear deck installed, with floor planking over, left open except where the race for the gear bearings goes.  Everything lines up so far.

Maury

 

[Maury S]

Construction of the beams has begun.  First, there are 15 or so beams, all with the same shape (a rise of 1" in 20').  To simplify making exact copies, I had Syren Shipmodels  http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/ 

laser cut a full set.  Well worth the cost.  Since a width of 1 foot (1/4" in scale) was called for (from the Grice sketch), and the triangle shape of the laser beam might have an impact on the beam size of 1/4", I agreed to building up the beams from two 1/8" pieces.  They were easy to match up and glue together to make a 8" x 12" beam.  Laser char was sanded off and everything was trimmed to final size.  I did a test of using dark glue or un-colored Titebond to put the two pieces together.  The dark is just barely visible and the un-colored is not quite invisible.  "If you can't hide a joint, show it off", to I went with the dark.  The beams get thru-bolts and will be cut to size.

 

 

I now have to give a lot of thought to the order of the next steps.  Taking the boat off the building board to work on planking means risking anything sticking up thru deck beams (i.e. bowsprit bitts finish 2' 3" above the deck).  Placement of the beams to line-up with some frames and to allow proper spacing for partners all has to be checked. 

Maury

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up, Maury.  She's really looking 'the ants pants'.

 

John

[Maury S]

More work on the beams.  Through-bolts are installed.

 

 

Each beam will get lined up according to the beam plan, subject to any little positioning adjustments.  The bowsprit bitts go from the frame at the edge of the keel / keelson through the deck and terminate 2' 3" above the deck.  I installed a spacer to keep them parallel with the notches in the beam and did a test fit.  Keep in mind, the bowsprit is off-set from center because of the great cat occupying that position.

 

 

The bitts are the only things sticking out above the deck beams until I get to the deck furniture.  I think I can protect them when the boat is off the building board, so cutting and fitting knees comes next.

Maury

[michael mott]

Lovely rework of the gear to make it look like a wooden one Maury. one thing that you might want to think about is the lubrication of the bearings especially the bottom one under the big gear. Wood being what it is will have a tendency to swell, and the gear in this boat will no doubt be wet a good deal of the time. Perhaps a channel or some way to get tallow or fat down to the bottom to lubricate the gear in its bearing plate or block.

 

Michael

Edited December 9, 2016 by michael mott

[Maury S]

Michael,

There would be a "race" channel for the bearings to ride in.  Probably an iron slot.  Not sure how to represent it or if it would be visible if I put something in.  Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Maury

[michael mott]

Maury you show in this picture the "cabinet" for the bearing I wonder if a wooden channel that sloped up to the side for pouring in some lubricant would work.

 

Looking at the cross section again one could use a hollow shaft for the capstan

to pour in the oil. The other thought that crosses my mind is that oil floats on water

 

Or are these questions just my modern thoughts and were not considered for this vessel?

 

Michael

[druxey]

'Slush' i.e. tallow was probably used for lubrication, not oil. Bearings were generally pretty simple. I imagine the spindle or shaft end would simply ride in a cast iron cup. 18th century capstans were done this way. 

[Roger Pellett]

Don't forget, the weight of the gear and the bending loads from the capstan were in large part, resisted by the ball race below the gear. This very large and (early ?) example of a ball bearing would not needed to be lubricated.

 

Roger

[druxey]

Roger: this begs the question of when ball bearings and races were first introduced. Do you have a date for this?

[michael mott]

I have a drawing that was one by Leonardo of a ball bearing set up.

 

Michael

[Maury S]

Starting on the beams and bitts.   The gantry sets the position of the beam with a square set on top.  The beam is notched and the bitts for the great cat are test fitted.

 

 

After that beam and the bitts were glued in place I moved forward to the next beam where the bitts for the bowsprit line up from the keelson to the beam above.  Again, the square on the gantry lines up the beam and the bitts are clamped and glued.  All the knees have been rough cut on the jigsaw.  I think the hanging knees go on the beam first, then the ledges.  It's going to get tight in there.

 

 

Maury

 

[druxey]

Coming along nicely, Maury! That cat davit is massive.

 

Michael: just because da Vinci drew it, means the idea probably didn't catch on for a few more centuries. Look at his flying machines....

[Maury S]

I love the discussions.  So much knowledge here.  More work on the beams.  Since the great cat passes thru what would be the center of beam #2, carlings had to be installed to support the beam parts.  From work on my Echo Section, I learned a very effective way of creating mortices and tenons.  They are cut on an angle at the top as is the deck beam.

 

 

They then fit nicely into the angled slot on the beam.  Slight differences in elevation can be sanded off easily.  Notice the positions of the carlings are slightly different.  The starboard one is parallel to and directly above the side of the keelson.  The port one (shown below) is about 8" further to the side and passes between the two bowsprit bitts.

 

 

The same technique will be used to connect the beam pieces to the carlings.

Maury

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Maury,

 

fantastic. I like your log very much. Your model shows a small harbor vessel, where I don't have much knowledge. So it's very interesting to see, how your model grows.

[jud]

I have a drawing that was one by Leonardo of a ball bearing set up.

 

Michael

Looked it up michael. A drawing can be found in 'Leonardo da Vinci's Ball Bearing'. First filing for a patent of the modern bearing was by Phillip Vaughn in 1792 in England. Just had to look that up and spread it around.

jud

[druxey]

1792? Thank you for that factoid, Jud!