Dunbrody by Mahuna - FINISHED - 1:48 - Cross-Section - Irish Famine Ship

[Mahuna]

Looking great Frank.  Not much else to say!

 

On the stub mast, have you considered at all doing the full lower mast so that you could include the shrouds and other lower rigging details, or do you want to just leave this completely rigging free?

Hi Brian.  No, I'm only going to make a stub for the mast.  There may be some rigging fixtures like deadeyes, etc, but no lines (at least not for now). 

[Mahuna]

Hi Frank

 

Really nice! She's definitely getting there.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Thanks Patrick.

 

 

Real progress visually now, Frank. That is looking great!

 

Thanks Druxey.  Yes, now I feel like I'm making some progress.

[Mahuna]

Lovely work, Frank. Setting and holding an accurate deck beam centerline can be tricky.  The centering ruler is a neat idea.  In the 14th picture the ruler appears off center, but the string also appears off center.  Am I seeing it wrong.

 

Ed

Thanks Ed.  I think you're seeing the effect of parallax.  I hand held the camera and tried to get things properly lined up, but obviously didn't.  I will double-check, though, later today.

[Mahuna]

Part 30 – Accommodation Deck Hatches

 

The last work to be done on the interior sides of the ship was the lower clamp for the main deck on the port side, and all of the partial strakes on the starboard side.  The clamp on the port side, being a full-length strake with a hooked scarf joint, went fairly quickly.

 

                        

 

The starboard side, however, needed partial strakes in the 4 fore and 5 aft frames, and individual pieces on the seven frames that will (or may) be left in place after cutting the viewing ports.  This work consisted of 48 individual pieces that needed to be cut, drilled for bolt holes, bolts installed and blackened, and then the individual piece needed to be installed in place and glued.  After all the pieces were installed, they then needed to be trimmed using sanding sticks and/or files.  In all, this consumed an entire long day in the shop.

 

                        

 

When prepping the photos I noticed a couple of pieces that need to be re-seated but I’ll wait to see if the frame they’re on will survive (additional work needed on the frame may make the decision to keep or remove the frame easier).

 

So now the hull is completed up to the level of the main deck beams.

 

                        

 

Next up is finishing the hatches for the Accommodation Deck.  Since these hatches were not exposed to weather the coamings did not need to be as massive as they would be on the main deck.  Generally coamings on the tween decks were about 6 inches high and 6 to 8 inches wide, according to the Crothers book.  A consideration in making these hatches was the fact that the tables and benches used by the emigrants would be partially on these hatches.  In the replica ship there is an outline of a hatch on the accommodation deck, but the hatch cover is clearly flush with the deck planking. 

 

                        

 

This makes sense when thinking of the replica ship, since it wouldn’t be very good if the tourists were constantly tripping over the hatch covers.  I’m sure this wasn’t a consideration for the actual ship – the emigrants probably had to deal with this and many other issues (I don’t think they had funds for legal representation in case of an accident caused by deck hatches).  In any event, I decided to make the hatches approximately 1 and ½ inches higher than the deck.

 

The fore and aft hatch coamings needed a rabbet for keeping the hatch cover in place.  I used the setup in the following photo for milling the rabbet.  The small brass fixture in the front of the setup is designed to keep the stock pressed against the end mill.

 

                        

 

In use, I fed the stock from the left, and used a finger of my right hand to keep the stock pressed against the base of the fixture (the cutting action would otherwise cause the piece being milled to rise).

 

                        

 

I milled a few lengths of stock – more than I would need for the fore and aft coamings. 

 

                        

 

When the coaming was measured and fit for the opening it was then drilled for the installation of bolts.

 

                        

 

In actual practice the coamings needed to be flush with the sides of the hatch opening so that there were no obstructions that would cause any problems during loading.  I used straight edges that were clamped at the port and starboard edges of the hatch framing, and fit the fore and aft coamings between these devices.  The following photo shows a coaming being pinned and glued.

 

                        

 

After the forward and aft coamings were in place the sides could be added.

 

                         

 

                        

 

Another consideration in making these hatches was the nature of the cover to be used.  I decided to make a set of covering boards for each hatch.  Each board is approximately 12 inches wide (I used a scale measurement that brought me close to the 12 inches while not requiring any partial boards.

 

                        

 

                        

 

The hatch covers then needed bolting patterns, since there was a framework under the boards that formed the boards into a single hatch cover.

 

                        

 

                        

 

The astute viewer (GuntherMT) will probably notice that the hole pattern in the top board of the first photo is off.  This is because the boards were still loose and laid in place for the photo and I didn’t notice at the time that I had one board reversed.  This will be corrected in the final installation.

 

I’ll add some lifting rings for the hatch covers at a later time.  The poor emigrants will need to be careful not to trip over those as well.

 

Now on to the deck planking and the borders for the companionways.  Once that’s completed I’ll start working on the actual ‘accommodations’ for the emigrants.

 

[GuntherMT]

Awesome.  If you are going to be home on Monday, maybe I'll swing by after work.

[Mahuna]

Awesome.  If you are going to be home on Monday, maybe I'll swing by after work.

Hi Brian.  That would be great.  I think I'll probably be in the shop.  

[Omega1234]

Hi Frank

 

I hope that you can take the time to stop, look at what you've achieved and say to yourself "I did that". So often we don't, or can't see what others can clearly see. In my case, I see a brilliantly executed ship. Precise, beautiful, and skilfully engineered.

 

Nice!!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[Canute]

Excellent work, Frank! Fit is terrific.

[Mahuna]

Hi Frank

 

I hope that you can take the time to stop, look at what you've achieved and say to yourself "I did that". So often we don't, or can't see what others can clearly see. In my case, I see a brilliantly executed ship. Precise, beautiful, and skilfully engineered.

 

Nice!!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Thanks Patrick.  I am pleased with the results thus far, and this has been a great learning experience.  

 

 

Excellent work, Frank! Fit is terrific.

 

Thanks Ken.

[captainbob]

What can I say other than she's beautiful.

 

Bob

[Mahuna]

What can I say other than she's beautiful.

 

Bob

Thanks Bob.  Have a great weekend.

[Mahuna]

Part 31 – Accommodation Deck Planking

 

Before starting the planking of the Accommodation Deck, the companionways needed to be framed out.  I decided to use timbers that were the same thickness as the planking would be, to avoid any additional changes in the surface of the deck.  I didn’t take any photos of this work, so the following photo includes some deck planking that was already under way.

 

                        

 

Deck Planking is pretty straightforward.  The maximum length of the planks that I allowed was 15 feet, but most planks did not reach that long since they terminated at the midpoint of a deck beam.  I measured and pre-drilled each plank before installation, so that the holes for the eventual treenails would be properly lined up.

 

           

 

The holes that I drilled allowed me to use a .0260 pin to secure the planks. 

 

                        

 

I used other methods of securing the planks in place, depending on circumstances. 

 

I used small wedges

 

                        

 

I often used spring clamps when they could reach the plank properly.

 

                        

 

I also used weights when needed.

 

                        

 

                        

 

Once all the planks had been installed I then needed to drill the holes for treenails.  The original holes were drilled with a #74 drill.  I used a #70 to enlarge the holes for the treenails.  In reality, the deck planks are not treenailed but instead are bolted or nailed and then a plug is inserted in the plank to blend with the wood of the plank, as in the following photo of Dunbrody’s Accommodation Deck.

 

                        

 

And yes, I think I need to make the mast coat with wedges – even on the Accommodation Deck.  In any event, I experimented  with a few methods of making the appearance of plugs, but wasn't happy with the results so I used treenails.  So I spent some time re-drilling all of the planks once they were in place.

 

                        

 

I dipped the treenail in diluted glue and inserted it in the pre-drilled hole.

 

                        

 

Then clipped the treenail

 

                        

 

And finally, washed off the glue residue.

 

                        

 

I didn’t plank the entire deck, since I want to show some of the framing.  I may decide to add a few more planks as work progresses and the need arises, so I haven’t applied any finish to the deck at this point.

 

                        

 

                        

 

I’ll probably work at several things next:  the temporary living arrangements for the emigrants, the beams for the main deck, and I’ll attempt a mast coat with wedges.  So there’s some fun items ahead.

 

Thanks again everyone.

 

 

[mtaylor]

Wonderful planking and treenailing, Frank.  The treenails look just right.. they don't stand out and they don't blend in to the point of invisible either.

[albert]

Beautiful work Frank.

[Omega1234]

Hi Frank

 

Truly, truly, truly very nice work! However..........somehow I predict that you can't and won't stop at this cross section. The rest of the ship beckons! Before you know it, you'll finish this midship section, then you'll start on the bow section and finish off with the stern section. Then, you'll put all three on the same display board, but slightly separated from each other so that the internal workmanship can be enjoyed.

 

Only dreaming, of course!!!

 

Can you tell that I enjoy your log as much as other's do?

 

All the best.

 

Patrick

Edited July 10, 2016 by Omega1234

[druxey]

Nice progress, Frank. Those are really classy weights that you use! I merely use offcut chunks of brass....

[Mahuna]

Wonderful planking and treenailing, Frank.  The treenails look just right.. they don't stand out and they don't blend in to the point of invisible either.

Thanks Mark.  I haven't applied a finish to the deck yet.  I expect that when I do the treenails will be more visible, and I hope that still looks ok.

 

 

Beautiful work Frank.

 

Thank you Albert.

 

 

Hi Frank

 

Truly, truly, truly very nice work! However..........somehow I predict that you can't and won't stop at this cross section. The rest of the ship beckons! Before you know it, you'll finish this midship section, then you'll start on the bow section and finish off with the stern section. Then, you'll put all three on the same display board, but slightly separated from each other so that the internal workmanship can be enjoyed.

 

Only dreaming, of course!!!

 

Can you tell that I enjoy your log as much as other's do?

 

All the best.

 

Patrick

 

 

Dream on, Patrick.  There are too many other projects I want to start, so Dunbrody will remain a mid-section.  Glad you're enjoying the log.

 

 

Nice progress, Frank. Those are really classy weights that you use! I merely use offcut chunks of brass....

 

 

Thanks Druxey.  I got those weights from a jeweler friend when he closed his shop, and I've been looking for something to use them for.

[druxey]

I believe the Swiss one is a dapping block: could be a very useful forming tool! That was a very kind friend.

[HIPEXEC]

It gets better every day!

[Mahuna]

It gets better every day!

 

Thanks Rich!

[Mahuna]

Part 32 – Main Deck Beams and Hanging Knees

 

The Accommodation Deck still has a lot of details to be added: Sleeping Platforms, Bucket Lavatories, Tables and Benches, Companionways (ladders) to the hold, and safety railings around the companionways.  In addition to the Accommodation Deck details, the main deck beams and associated hanging knees and lodging knees have to be added.

 

This mix of work to be done leads to the question of what to install first:  If the Accommodation Deck details are constructed first, there will be very little room to work on the hanging knees.  If the main deck beams and hanging knees are constructed first, then it will be very difficult to install the Accommodation Deck details without risk of damaging knees or beams, or both.

 

In a discussion with Brian (GuntherMT), he suggested that an alternative would be to install the hanging knees without permanently installing the beams, then work on the Accommodation Deck details, and then install the beams when all is completed.  This made sense to me, so it’s the approach I’ll be using for fitting out all of the Accommodation Deck details. (Thanks, Brian!)

 

The Main Deck Beams have a slight camber on top but are flat on the bottom.  To construct the beams, lumber was milled to be slightly thicker than the moulded dimension of the crown of the deck.  I then glued a CAD-produced profile of the deck beam on the front and back of the billet I had produced. The camber for the top of the beams was then shaped by sanding the billet on the disk sander.

 

                          

 

Since the drawn profile of the deck beam also included a vertical line indicating where the crown of the deck is, this line was used to draw a centerline across the billet.  When the beams are parted off, each beam will then have its own centerline already drawn.

 

                        

 

The required number of main beams and second beams were parted off, leaving the width of each beam slightly larger than needed.  The beams were then run through the thickness sander until they were the required thickness.

 

                        

 

Some of the beams will actually be partial beams – for example at the sides of the main hatch.  These beams were cut as full length beams until they are used, and then the correct part of the beam will be used for the partial beam so that the correct camber will be maintained.

 

The beams were then dry-fit in place and marked to indicate which frame position the beam was for, and which side was port vs starboard.

 

                        

 

Making the hanging knees followed the same process previously described for the hanging knees of the Accommodation Deck Beams.  The appropriate Main Deck Beam was temporarily pinned in place to allow fitting of the hanging knees for that beam.

 

                        

 

The 10 pairs of hanging knees are now installed, and the rest of the Accommodation Deck details can now be worked on.  That will be the subject of the next few posts.

 

                      

 

 

 

[druxey]

Lovely work, as usual! Your sequence strategy is a good one.

[Mahuna]

Lovely work, as usual! Your sequence strategy is a good one.

Thanks Druxey.  The key was Brian's suggestion about installing the knees first.

[GuntherMT]

Glad I had an idea that was useful, although I imagine you would have found a way (possibly the same one) to get around the sequence issue at some point.  

 

I'm happy that I got to get a good look at this in person, it's a wonderful work of art.

 

The knees are looking great!

[EdT]

Gets better and better, Frank.

 

Ed

[captainbob]

Really coming along with such fine joinery.

 

Bob

[tlevine]

The model is stunning.  It's unusual to see four different Arizona modelers on the same page.  Now all you need is someone from Tucson and Flagstaff.

[Mahuna]

Glad I had an idea that was useful, although I imagine you would have found a way (possibly the same one) to get around the sequence issue at some point.  

 

I'm happy that I got to get a good look at this in person, it's a wonderful work of art.

 

The knees are looking great!

Thanks again Brian - our little chat helped me think through a lot of things about the work still to come.

 

 

Really coming along with such fine joinery.

 

Bob

 

Thanks Bob.  One of these days I'll get up there to see you again - probably in August, since we have a few weeks of vacation coming up.

 

 

The model is stunning.  It's unusual to see four different Arizona modelers on the same page.  Now all you need is someone from Tucson and Flagstaff.

 

Thanks Toni.  It's nice to have a few modelers here in the desert - we get together every so often.

[Mahuna]

Gets better and better, Frank.

 

Ed

Thanks Ed.  Hope your work on the book is progressing well.

[Mahuna]

Part 33 – Sleeping Platforms for Emigrants

 

Dunbrody has a total of 44 sleeping platforms, which provided primitive accommodations for the emigrants.  These platforms were 6 ft square and were designed to each house a family of four, for a total of 176 emigrants in the allotted space.  The platforms were rough-built for each trip, and I imagine they were discarded when the ship reached Canada.

 

The sectional model has enough room for 8 of these platforms, and I decided to use different woods so that they would appear to be different from the permanent parts of the ship.  I used cherry for the frames and beech for the planks that made up the floor of each platform.

 

Building these platforms was a complex task, and I tried several different approaches until I found one that I felt I could be successful with.

 

The side and end pieces are 3 inches thick and 8 inches high.  The vertical beams are 8.25 inches square, and vary in height depending on location.  The side and end pieces of the frame were mortised into the frame’s vertical beams.  The end beams had mortises on two sides, while the rest of the vertical beams had mortises on 3 sides.  I cut these mortises using a 1/16” end mill.

 

                        

 

                        

 

Each sleeping platform needed to be square and aligned with the adjoining platforms.  IThis required the use of jigs that would keep the pieces properly aligned while assembling the platforms.  The jig was simple – two parallel tracks that were the correct size to snugly hold the vertical beams and were the correct distance apart.

 

The following photo shows one of the jigs in use.

 

                        

 

I made 2 of these jigs to allow me to work on one platform when another one was being glued.

 

                        

 

I used these jigs for every mating and gluing process.

 

                        

 

                       

 

                        

 

                        

 

Completing the first platform confirmed the approach using the jigs.

 

                        

 

I installed the horizontal planks in the first platforms I made, but then continued by focusing only on completing the frames.

 

Placing the platforms also required some thought.  Since the interior walls of the hull followed the curve of the hull, a method of aligning the sleeping platforms so that they were in a straight line was needed.  I had developed a CAD drawing of the platforms in order to understand the dimensions required, and I used this drawing as a way to line up the platforms.  Once the drawing was in the correct alignment crepe draftsman’s tape was used to mark the boundaries of the platforms.

 

                        

 

The tape was left in place throughout the construction.

 

                        

 

Each vertical beam needed to be checked against the height of the nearest main deck beam, and the height of the vertical beam adjusted.

 

 

                      

 

The main deck beams were frequently put in place to check the layout of the sleeping platforms as they were built.

 

                        

 

A majority of the sleeping platform vertical beams were either under or adjacent to a main deck beam and were adjusted accordingly.  A few vertical beams are near but not touching a deck beam.  In these cases a chock will be used to attach the vertical beam to a deck beam.

 

                        

 

The first platforms that were completed were the four aftmost platforms.

 

                     

 

I then worked on the forward platforms, and when three were completed the final platform was created by joining the fore and aft sets.

 

                        

 

When this was set, I installed the horizontal planks in all of the platforms, and then applied a finish to the sleeping platforms.  The following photo shows the completed sleeping platforms.

 

                        

 

There is still some minor adjustment needed for the placement of the platforms.  The following photos show the platforms temporarily installed.

 

                        

 

                       

 

                        

 

From my perspective, completing the sleeping platforms is a major milestone.  These platforms are probably the one thing that influenced my decision to build the Dunbrody.  It’s hard to imagine sick and starving people living in these conditions during a transatlantic voyage.

 

Thanks everyone for following this build, and for all of your comments, encouragement, and ‘likes’.