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Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century


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Thank you GL

 

Installing the cannon barrels.  As already explained. Various sizes and callibers.

The barrles are glued on the carriages with ca glue. Holes have been drilled above the ports.

IMG_20181211_134033.thumb.jpg.c95efa588ac5649b6407af368be68681.jpgIMG_20181211_134218.thumb.jpg.e3dff29661e86a7dbf5d70d881cafbab.jpgIMG_20181211_152643.thumb.jpg.193a32dc439fe4025ee113f2fa469ce0.jpg

 

Next step, deck planking (nothing glued yet).

IMG_20181214_182951.thumb.jpg.5fcf3f766c1d0bc5b554563196e442e1.jpg

 

Thanks for following and likes

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Hello,

 

Started with planking of the deck

General rules in 16th century deck planking :  there are no rules, use all your wooden planks that you have left ... and is the deck waterproof, then it is good.

some examples

IMG_20181222_141719.thumb.jpg.1f6c88b6fe29c931a56e1da3b992126f.jpg

 

I also made a ladder.

IMG_20181215_150017.thumb.jpg.3f8eb2c6d4bf5aa52a441a658fe43266.jpgIMG_20181217_164459.thumb.jpg.b4df4b55d87074ade5bdec57709282ae.jpgIMG_20181217_171237.thumb.jpg.90d5e8e6e5bbb0daf39348119a05a176.jpg
This will be glued on the model when the anchor cable is in place.


The original planks were probaly nailed and the head of the nail was caulced. 
Planks are provided with treenails ( the caulcing) in advance and have already been colored once before glueing on to the model.

IMG_20181215_134703.thumb.jpg.bc5d0b7bf9fbfcc311d7d4a4d213ac65.jpgIMG_20181217_170432.thumb.jpg.851f4124c73eabd20ff924d14fcea91a.jpg

 

Work in progress

IMG_20181217_171355.thumb.jpg.889f026c03ea51c123da90ffa343331f.jpgIMG_20181221_162621.thumb.jpg.611d97e7477e56bdbe2eeb008c68896d.jpgIMG_20181221_162708.thumb.jpg.3c0e7b5751d2d4cbd79576d0e3547615.jpg

 

The third box of toothpicks....

IMG_20181222_141906.thumb.jpg.6b8127b568a03c912d57a8afd4684133.jpg

 

Thanks for following and merry christmas

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Please accept a comment from an absolute novice:

 

I have often thought that the “16th century planking rule” you mention must have applied (except, perhaps, on the day they were launched) to nearly all wooden ships, especially warships, that went on multi-year voyages, far from home ports.  I find it hard to believe that after several years at sea, battling foul weather and reefs, not to mention cannonballs, and the lack of good timber remote from home or friendly ports, that given such conditions, planking rules other than the one you mention were the norm. 

 

Of course, all evidence of my theory probably rests at the bottom of the sea. 

 

Absolutely enjoy your wonderful build.

Steve

 

"If they suspect me of intelligence, I am sure it will soon blow over, ha, ha, ha!"

-- Jack Aubrey

 

Builds:

Yankee Hero, Fannie Gorham, We’re Here, Dapper Tom (x3), New Bedford Whaler, US Brig Lawrence (Niagara), Wyoming (half hull), Fra Berlanga (half hull), Gokstad Viking Ship, Kate Cory, Charles Morgan, Gjoa

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Thank you G.L.

There will certainly be enough toothpicks left for the holidays.

 

Steve,

Thanks for the comment

I certainly will not make a puzzle of it like the examples shown. The Golden Hind was probably not a real warship, but an armed merchantman.
Specially built or rebuilt for this trip. Nobody knows that.

Of course there will have been nicely planked decks then, and others will have been "less nicely".

 

With the intention of my saying, no rules. I want to say :
Nicely planked  or with all possible leftovers planked. No one can say what is right or wrong for this period. All evidence is indeed at the bottom of the sea.

As you can see,  I keep the planking as neat as possible.

IMG_20181223_160029.thumb.jpg.9c356d50f843014826eb726a3b49b0e1.jpg

 

Interesting topic

 

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Thank you Lawrence and Carl.

 

In the meantime, I found a solution to make the drains for the deck. One has been done as a test.
Source San Juan Whale ship.

IMG_20181224_112654.thumb.jpg.7e5b77eba718c24e5ce58ec93de008df.jpgIMG_20181224_112839.thumb.jpg.136609c7fa8408fb537b2aa2e0afda5b.jpgIMG_20181224_112814.thumb.jpg.252280036512cda99d5628affae0d8fb.jpg

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have finished planking the deck. This work took a while.
To prepare each plank separately before gluing on the model, takes more time. The advantage is that no more sanding has to be done on the model. So there will be no dust on the model itself.
The base for the whip staff has also been made.
It has not become a deck with a nice equal planking scheme. So, my apologies to everyone who does not like this.

 

Whip staff

IMG_20181229_124128.thumb.jpg.462a4fa9b6bffbef25b68b6558e961b1.jpgIMG_20181230_104005.thumb.jpg.94f41a4167f708e9809fe35ab384e0c7.jpg

 

deck

IMG_20190119_104733.thumb.jpg.f178ca6f89d2ecbe778aa735731eaa09.jpgIMG_20190119_104605.thumb.jpg.d0ba01a7f71d11d8d5c7d8dffee59981.jpgIMG_20190119_104424.thumb.jpg.34f318a745e52a333c17782d47aca305.jpgIMG_20190119_104439.thumb.jpg.8d3d4f8b7ad72a06db9c0a084f0539b0.jpgIMG_20190119_104455.thumb.jpg.21fe58a70848a350105f72c76541f609.jpgIMG_20190119_104517.thumb.jpg.874325e85b3c10af35aae57c9946a0e4.jpg

 

Thanks for following

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What's not to like?  It has an aura of the real thing knowing what we know about how they planked decks back then.  I do like the way it looks.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Patrick,you are making a very good model,very nice indeed.

 

I watched a programme yesterday on English television about this ship and Drake. There were many parts of the programme taken on board the replica in London. Not a lot of headroom below decks and extremely cramped living conditions. Hard to believe that the original ship circumnavigated the world.

 

BTW,the pivot point for the Whipstaff is called the Rowle.

 

Dave :dancetl6:

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I like the solid and purposeful look of the channels.

The decking pattern is very impressive, both the deck and channels give an insight into how these ships were built - with craftsmanship, but using what is available where necessary.

Good work, you have given me much to think about!

Completed Build --- Virginia 1819 - Artesania Latina

Other Models      --- German Armor plus others    Mastermind

 

Current Build --- Liveship Vivacia

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Patrick,

 

Just catching up - As always Brilliant indeed.

 

 

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, G.L. said:

What did you use to stain the planks

Diluted Tamiya dark sea grey XF-54 for the deck (1/3 Paint  2/3 isopropyl alcohol )

After drying, the deck is matte. Polish then with scoth brite (green color). The more you polish the more gloss on the deck.


Sides of the planks are painted with Tamiya German Grey XF-63 
Black as caulcing gives too strong a contrast in combination with the gray of the deck.
Then it looks like the wood is weathered, and the caulcing is not.

IMG_20190121_070524.thumb.jpg.63c8c30534a08856d1c6721cb2cb0782.jpg

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10 hours ago, davyboy said:

Patrick,you are making a very good model,very nice indeed.

 

I watched a programme yesterday on English television about this ship and Drake. There were many parts of the programme taken on board the replica in London. Not a lot of headroom below decks and extremely cramped living conditions. Hard to believe that the original ship circumnavigated the world.

 

BTW,the pivot point for the Whipstaff is called the Rowle.

 

Dave :dancetl6:

Thank you,

 

I read somewhere. 

Spanish prisoners found the living conditions below deck dark, cramped and unhealthy. They were right 

 

 

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5 hours ago, md1400cs said:

Patrick,

 

Just catching up - As always Brilliant indeed.

 

 

Thank you Michael

8 hours ago, nikbud said:

I like the solid and purposeful look of the channels.

The decking pattern is very impressive, both the deck and channels give an insight into how these ships were built - with craftsmanship, but using what is available where necessary.

Good work, you have given me much to think about!

Thank you

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1 hour ago, Backer said:

Diluted Tamiya dark sea grey XF-54 for the deck (1/3 Paint  2/3 isopropyl alcohol )

After drying, the deck is matte. Polish then with scoth brite (green color). The more you polish the more gloss on the deck.


Sides of the planks are painted with Tamiya German Grey XF-63 
Black as caulcing gives too strong a contrast in combination with the gray of the deck.
Then it looks like the wood is weathered, and the caulcing is not.

 

Thanks Patrick

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello,

Today i started with the installation of a waterway on this deck. With the following models as examples Batavia replica and the san Juan whaler.

 

First I paint the inside painting (had to do this much earlier, that would have worked easier)

IMG_20190210_091401.thumb.jpg.c26f8acddb894d832515cd44f0e2b9e5.jpg


All parts are first painted and detailed before assembling. Fillerblocks are used to make the horizontal parts easier to glue.

IMG_20190210_090322.thumb.jpg.2806afd076977ea8308523ed1e44e9a9.jpgIMG_20190210_091411.thumb.jpg.b710d7408afdaaaca1f7afdde6d0b7f4.jpgIMG_20190210_092106.thumb.jpg.1a95908afb5c960618732b9299903d44.jpgIMG_20190210_102656.thumb.jpg.ca06eb56b6290e23071a762a941a9c9d.jpgIMG_20190210_111744.thumb.jpg.af59fd1bcd3b6b2d23b745be5d11579a.jpgIMG_20190210_154657.thumb.jpg.63120505c87d1881c1b69b5e318c2a20.jpg

 

In the meantime, a second (plastic) shipyard has unexpectedly been started up. This is why this shipyard sometimes has a delay.

This was going to be something quick and easy. But has become something like a semi scratch.

 

IMG_20190210_162811.thumb.jpg.c2b3ac69a71f6eb45b990dc78701b8ad.jpg

 

Thanks for following

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update,

The inside is painted and the waterway is ready. This work me took more time than expected.

IMG_20190224_090257.thumb.jpg.59ba855c38b66abaa3dfd2a903a63b7b.jpgIMG_20190224_090320.thumb.jpg.a6dc35eb9df7e73d45df814cf3c8a944.jpgIMG_20190224_090351.thumb.jpg.a92e81b9195fd5762de717e67f38a116.jpg

Thanks for following.

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Thanks for the comments,

 

The forecastle.
What looked simple was actually a bit complicated. Where to place the doors ? Where to place the ladders? The height of the deck ?

The hatch to the lower deck is in the way. It was not smart of me to provide this hatch at this place.

IMG_20190226_183604.thumb.jpg.7692b4becce98c098bdf25eca24e5927.jpg

 

First the height of the deck is determined. My assistant is very helpful in this.

IMG_20190225_190354.thumb.jpg.67007e0ea1ed46d0cc5d897f09cbbed3.jpgIMG_20190225_190518.thumb.jpg.02e2963da7fd2fd644bf8f1ac20f902c.jpg


Then the support beam (beamshelf?) Of the deck beams is placed.

IMG_20190226_190616.thumb.jpg.c19fe2c92e7966d66cd624259c39aeb3.jpg

 

The location of doors and ladders is now being studied.
2 doors or openings on the side is not an option, the block in the fore castle can not be operated with the capstan.

IMG_20190227_190530.thumb.jpg.714eaf9801243ceb95c36364914b7036.jpg

 

The only solution on this model is one large opening in the middle without doors. The block in the fore castle can be operated with the capstan.

IMG_20190227_190233.thumb.jpg.6e977ee67e380e62d5706618cedc620b.jpg


The opening will be made wider than the example so that access to the fore castle is easier.

IMG_20190227_193423.thumb.jpg.4053f530067ef60a0db31617ddf330ac.jpg

I now know how to proceed. And looking at drawings from that time both solutions can be correct.

To be continued. Thanks for following.

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This looks good, Patrick. Apart from your own pragmatic reasons for having a single large opening for the forecastle, contemporary pictures of carracks (yes, I know, 50-100 years or so earlier) show them with large openings both under the main deck at the break of the aftercastle, and at the entry to the forecastle. I realise you're doing a galleon not a carrack, but I think you're on the right track with this.

 

And yes - the support beam for the deck beams is the beam shelf.

 

Steven

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4 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

This looks good, Patrick. Apart from your own pragmatic reasons for having a single large opening for the forecastle, contemporary pictures of carracks (yes, I know, 50-100 years or so earlier) show them with large openings both under the main deck at the break of the aftercastle, and at the entry to the forecastle. I realise you're doing a galleon not a carrack, but I think you're on the right track with this.

 

And yes - the support beam for the deck beams is the beam shelf.

 

Steven

Steven, 

I also do not find this a good solution. I expected (actually hoped) for this comment.
Early galleons had this opening (1540-1550), but after this period not.

 

For the time being I place only  the 2 beams. and think further about the what to do : 1 opening / 2 doors.
It is perhaps best to place 2 doors and ignore the problem between the block and the capstan.

The doors will always remain visible. The problem with the block not.

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Congratulations Patrick for your build,

I started following him now, ... better late than never, because it's really beautiful, and I'll definitely continue to follow him!

 

Fabio

called luponero

Lupo nero

_______________________________________

finished models  Carrack Santa Maria by luponero - scale 1/50 - diagrams of Adametz   

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19739-carrack-santa-maria-by-luponero-scale-150-diagrams-of-adametz-finished/

models under construction Athenian triere of the 5th century B.C  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25956-athenian-triere-of-the-5th-century-bc/ 

 

  San Giovanni Battista 1598 by luponero - Medicean galleon  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25930-san-giovanni-battista-1598-by-luponero-medicean-galleon/                                           

 

 

                       

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Thanks Fabio,

 

After searching through my documentation, I found that Steven is absolutely right. Going back to the beginning of this log I came across Matthew Baker's drawing. The sides of the fore castle must be as identical as possible all around. Wales, symbols, figures they have to go through in one line as much as possible.

IMG_20170405_191016.thumb.jpg.5d4e5a5e20b8573a7a043f2268cb9523.jpg

 

So first i need to remove some pieces.

IMG_20190228_153619.thumb.jpg.d07c1dcf7dee7b932d5c0cb6c9603bcc.jpg


And then start to  rebuild.
2 doors are provided with "sufficient" passage height. Parts are first pre-painted as much as possible. But, here and there some area's will have to be sanded and repainted.

IMG_20190228_194743.thumb.jpg.62c03be61b015513b8f5022378526f46.jpg

 

2 Dry fitted parts

IMG_20190301_193211.thumb.jpg.3845c8fe2ba85f7444736f7bc93b9e53.jpgIMG_20190301_193349.thumb.jpg.4db9f080872269e3f158f5e431184250.jpg

 

IMG_20190302_161512.thumb.jpg.2710bf2c657a3293b9d1f954ac5160e6.jpgIMG_20190302_171217.thumb.jpg.e380aaf0798865aa97af140105597f8f.jpgIMG_20190303_110335.thumb.jpg.da0c14286e8c5eb8a3621cb870bff102.jpgIMG_20190303_112320.thumb.jpg.bd061323e2a9b8026bc2e9ad92b612aa.jpg

 

IMG_20190303_115744.jpg

 

I think i am back on the right track. Thanks for following

Edited by Backer
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