Lady Nelson by vossiewulf - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64

[gjdale]

Not bad Pat! 😉

[gjdale]

1 hour ago, vossiewulf said:

So many hours for "pretty good." Sigh 

Actually Vossie, 

 

I’d say your build looks as flash as a rat with a gold tooth!

[vossiewulf]

11 hours ago, Cabbie said:

Definitely a great looking build, another one of those builds where I would swear

that I was standing on the wharf looking down into a ship.

Thanks Chris! I was mostly teasing Pat but I appreciate the kind words.

 

10 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Sorry Vossie, you need to get used to us Aussies - our typical response to being asked 'how are you',  is "not half bad mate" - so 'pretty good' is a 'real compliment'    -  Glad I didn't say 'That's not bad mate' - I may have been run out of town

I know, was just having fun giving you a hard time

 

9 hours ago, gjdale said:

I’d say your build looks as flash as a rat with a gold tooth!

It's LIT m***********!

[vossiewulf]

Working on the not simple rigging of the anchor buoys. I've made up the rings and six lines (one line on each side will double over to form the loop at the ends) for one buoy, so should be able to finish one and mostly finish another tomorrow.

 

[Blue Ensign]

You're doing a fine job on your Lady Nelson Vossie, and those training tackles are very well done particularly as you're working at 1:64 scale. 👍

 

B.E.

 

[Rick01]

Looking great - you've gone way past anything I can help with anymore. At this point I'm now just watching and admiring all the little details as they develop.

 

Rick

[vossiewulf]

12 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

You're doing a fine job on your Lady Nelson Vossie, and those training tackles are very well done particularly as you're working at 1:64 scale. 👍

 

 

11 hours ago, Rick01 said:

Looking great - you've gone way past anything I can help with anymore. At this point I'm now just watching and admiring all the little details as they develop.

Thanks B.E. and Rick

 

[popeye the sailor]

it shows effort Vossie........that counts for much more     catching up on your project and I see your doing a spectacular job with the rigging...the cannons are nice 'n neat!  coming along in fine style   

[Landlubber Mike]

Those anchor buoys are looking awesome.  Not at all easy making that rope basket - I had a lot of choice words when trying to get them on the buoys for my Badger.

[BANYAN]

That serving on your lines for the buoy look great - very nice job. The serving is very tight and even.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited April 4, 2019 by BANYAN

[vossiewulf]

Thanks @popeye, @Landlubber Mike, and @BANYAN. Mike, I am having lots of choice words trying to get those baskets in the right place on the buoys, I thought making those baskets would be the hard part, noooooooo.

 

Pat, thanks, but I am taking advantage of using fly tying line, which at least lays flat when wrapped if not being flat coming off the bobbin. It's specifically designed to make it easy to do a smooth wrapping like that, fly tyers are at least as nutty about their things as ship modelers are about ships. If you find a place that needs small-scale serving, give it a spin, costs like $4USD a bobbin. I'm using 6/0 to do the basic serving of the line, and 14/0 for wrapping the loop splices, and I bought some 3/0 to serve larger things like stays.

[vossiewulf]

This was about as easy as trying to stuff a live octopus into a beer can. But that's partially because I was being stupid about how to hold the buoy, just at the end of an arduous battle with this one I facepalmed when I realized there was an easier way.

 

Also, I used .012" line as I thought .008" would be too thin. But in retrospect I was wrong, I should have used .008" for the buoy rigging and .012" for the buoy lines.

 

Edited April 7, 2019 by vossiewulf

[Tigersteve]

Looks fantastic. 

Steve

[vossiewulf]

8 hours ago, Tigersteve said:

Looks fantastic. 

Steve

Thanks Steve

 

[BANYAN]

Great result Vossie - so, don't leave us hanging   What was the easier way hold them (to stuff the octopus also!) :)?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[vossiewulf]

18 minutes ago, BANYAN said:

Great result Vossie - so, don't leave us hanging   What was the easier way hold them (to stuff the octopus also!) :)?

Oops, sorry, forgot to say. Easier way is drilling a hole in each end and mounting it on a mandrel first on one end, then the other. At least that seems a much better way, I'm about to try, or was until work called and now I have to join another weekend conference call for the next couple hours. Sigh.

[BANYAN]

Thanks Vossie

[vossiewulf]

For anyone who wanted to see the rest of the process of making these damnable things

 

Each hoop has two "short" lines and one long. The short lines go on opposite sides of the buoy from each other, run the length of the buoy and then are cut off at the end with the ends hidden by the seizing. The long line as you see, runs down one side, is made into a loop, and then back down the other side where it wraps around the hoop. Because of that you have to glue and seize that one in place; the rest were made on a post, soaked in glue at the top of the loop, cut at that point, inserted onto the hoop and then reglued. Way easier than doing it in place.

Run it under the hoop and bend it almost all the way around and glue it at that point at the top of where it bends around the hoop. Then soak the next bit of line in thin super glue.

Within a couple minutes, before that glue hardens fully, clip it at about a 60 degree angle, put a small drop of glue on the cut face, and press it down into the rope below. I've just done that here, the loop we're working on is at the top now.

Then wrap some 14/0 fly line under it and tack glue it in place.

Cut off one end of the fly line, then put thin super glue on the tip of the other end and then start fishing it around, tack gluing it every couple turns or even every turn. This is very squirrely to do so keep gluing as you go.

Done, the one we just did is at the top.

Then seize the end loop.

Then repeat that process going the other direction. Once done, go over everything with Testor's Dullcote or some other flat varnish to hide the glue.

 

Edited April 11, 2019 by vossiewulf

[KeithAug]

Vossie - Pretty amazing - and how long did it take you?

[vossiewulf]

7 hours ago, KeithAug said:

Vossie - Pretty amazing - and how long did it take you?

Thanks Keith. Not sure, but it took me a couple evenings to work out a method that would work, and then a couple more to make all the lines, and gluing one set in place took several hours.

Edited April 11, 2019 by vossiewulf

[popeye the sailor]

nice process..........my word!  for a while there,  ya had me sneaking up to open a beer can......don't need no tentacle tickling my nose   great job on the buoys !

[vossiewulf]

Thanks @popeye the sailor 

 

I posted one pic in the thread on how to rig these anchors, but I should catch up progress here. I've made all the rigging for both anchors, and have rigged one but the other is in limbo while the experts determine if a cutter could operate two anchors at once, and if so, how. Since you can't engage or disengage the hawsers from the windlass without pulling all the cable up on deck and detaching it from the bitts, either they went through extreme anguish trying to operate two anchors, or you could loosen one set of wrappings selectively, and work on one anchor without affecting the other. There is a surprising (to me) amount of discussion on this point, considering the commonness of cutter models built and the consistency of their windlass/anchor arrangements.

 

If I'm allowed to wrap both hawsers on the windlass, I will hang the port anchor from the cathead. If not, I will stow it with no hawser.

 

As expected, starting with those 2mm blocks means that working with even a 1/8" block is all giggles and rainbows.

The catfall blocks with their hooks, which once again proved the axiom that no matter how many gauges of wire you have, you will never have the right size. These involved a fair amount of hand filing as what was needed fell between the two closest gauge sizes I have.

Anchor ready to be installed with hawser, catfall block, and buoy rope. I went with an anchor bend as the line was too thick to do the fisherman's bend recommended for small anchors, and an anchor clinch was only used on large ship anchors.

I had to flip her over to drill the holes for the catfall eyes in the underside of the catheads, which of course I didn't know I needed until now. While I was at it, I finished drilling holes for CF rod in the keel that will go in the pedestals.

And we get a probably last clear view of the planking.

Starboard anchor installed, but not finished. I need to put a small cleat on the top of each cathead where it sits on the rail for the catfall line. Also, if anyone is reading in enough detail, how does one finish a line belayed to a timberhead? I'm not sure what the line is called (the fully served one), but usually it goes from a belaying point on one side of the cathead to another on the other side, but since I didn't have two belaying points I went from the timberhead through the anchor and back to the same timberhead. So does the end of the line just stick out in space? Or did they go under other lines a few more times to completely hide it?

Another view, I seized a loop in one end of the fully-served line and that went over the timberhead first.

How I lashed the other end to a timberhead, and a good look at the buoy rope. In retrospect (AGAIN), I should have gone from timberhead to the shank of the anchor instead of the fluke. The way I have it, it would move. OTOH, if I went across the shank the lashings would be bearing on the buoy line, I don't know if that was considered a problem or not.

And the controversial windlass, with the starboard anchor hawser having turns around it. As noted, just waiting for final decision before mounting the other anchor. 

After I do that, I HAVE to stop doing other things and mount the rudder before the whole mess becomes too fragile.

 

 

 

[Tigersteve]

Looks really good!

Steve

[vossiewulf]

4 minutes ago, Tigersteve said:

Looks really good!

Thanks Steve

 

[src]

Really enjoying your attention to detail.

Sam

[Rick01]

Round the fluke does work but I can't help as far a finishing ropes at a timberhead.

 

 

Rick

[vossiewulf]

14 hours ago, src said:

Really enjoying your attention to detail.

Sam

I have said that to myself about your build

 

5 hours ago, Rick01 said:

Round the fluke does work but I can't help as far a finishing ropes at a timberhead.

Sigh. Now I have to figure out how to make a tiny brain knot or whatever that's called at the end of the fluke  Thanks, I think...

[Rick01]

"Monkey fist" I believe. It's only there because Aussie O H & S guys don't want some member of the public impaling themselves on it. 😉 

 

Rick

[Dowmer]

Vossiewulf,

Very nice job with your detailing of the anchors and seizings.  

 

As far as working two anchors at once, I can only give you advice from what I’ve read in numerous captain logs and also documented in “Seamanship in the Age of Sail” by John Harland. Page 263.

 

Working two anchors at the same time on one windlass would be too arduous and warping one cable at a time with a small crew on a Sloop or Cutter was taxing as it was.  So one cable would be worked, then belayed with stoppers or on the bitts, then the other cable would be worked if setting two anchors.

 

Below is a picture showing one of the cables being worked using a “Norman” in one of the pawl stops while the other cable is free of the windlass.  I hope this helps.  There is also a plethora of other information on securing the anchors etc.

 

 

[vossiewulf]

3 hours ago, Dowmer said:

As far as working two anchors at once, I can only give you advice from what I’ve read in numerous captain logs and also documented in “Seamanship in the Age of Sail” by John Harland. Page 263.

I thought I had read that section pretty closely but obviously not closely enough. Thanks, that makes logical sense now, if it was earlier in the build I would have added a cleat like that.