Lady Nelson by vossiewulf - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64

[BANYAN]

Simply beautiful! ..... and functional.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[vossiewulf]

21 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

A beautiful gift!  Really kind of you.  

 

3 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Simply beautiful! ..... and functional.

 

Thanks Mike and Pat!

[Bob Cleek]

On ‎1‎/‎23‎/‎2019 at 11:52 PM, vossiewulf said:

I don't remember the rod the traveler traveled on having a name

"Sheet horse," I believe.

[Bob Cleek]

On ‎1‎/‎18‎/‎2019 at 11:56 PM, vossiewulf said:

One thing I've learned about ship modeling is that to be fully successful, you have to build the entire model down to every detail in your head before you build anything, including working out all the required processes and tools and materials. Assuming you will figure out something when you get there will result in the gods of ship modeling smiting you a good one.

Truer words were never spoken! You betcha.  It's an enjoyable pastime, too. One of the best things about "building it in your head" is that there's nothing to clean up afterwards, either.  

 

[vossiewulf]

2 hours ago, Dubz said:

Hej, you have the direction of your gratings mixed. All three should run like the one on the right before the windlass (green).

Good eye, unfortunately I didn't think of it at gluing time  They're stuck there, but I definitely won't forget the next time.

[vossiewulf]

And finally I get to start playing with rigging, starting with breeching ropes. I was going to put on the seizing in the middle of the loops that go around both parts of the rope, but decided you probably couldn't even see them if I did. Also I like this thread, but it appears a bit too white to me, what do you all think?

 

Plan is to put some glue on the top of the loop in the breeching rope and slice it there and install on the model that way. I saw no reasonable way of making them in situ.

[Rick01]

I made mine on the ring bolts then inserted them in the bulwarks - I'm not sure that was much easier than the way you're doing it however. Sorry I didn't mention this before 😢

 

Rick

[vossiewulf]

Oh I realized that after I put them in, but yes that might be a better way. The other one I didn't think of was the rings on the carriage- they're all installed but a pre-made breeching rope ain't going through those rings. I will probably have to yank them off the carriages, I don't see a good way to make the actual breeching rope in two halves.

[Rick01]

2 hours ago, vossiewulf said:

I don't see a good way to make the actual breeching rope in two halves.

Could you hide the join of the two halves where it's twisted round the knob on the base of the cannon. Bit fussy that way but may be a tad less traumatic than ripping out the rings on the carriage.

 

Rick 

[Landlubber Mike]

Yeah, I would definitely tie them to the ring bolts and then insert the ring bolts into the bulwarks.  Not sure I see doing it any other way.  Use the one you have now to test out lengths of the breaching rope to get to the proper length to have adequate sag, etc.

[Chuck]

Very nice work...the breech rope looks a bit heavy for those guns however.  You might want to try a smaller diameter and see what it looks like, at least as it wraps around the button.  But its very neatly done.

 

Chuck

[vossiewulf]

51 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Very nice work...the breech rope looks a bit heavy for those guns however.  You might want to try a smaller diameter and see what it looks like, at least as it wraps around the button.  But its very neatly done.

 

Chuck

Thanks Chuck. I was wondering about that, whether it was too heavy. Unfortunately if it is, I will have to order something else- no other natural color line in similar sizes.

 

Can you or someone explain why modelers make the breeching rope white? I would have assumed that white rope was a modern invention. And I've wondered why the rope would be a different color for the breeching rope than all other lines on deck.

[Chuck]

Yes I also agree that yours is way too white.  I would not go with that color at all.   If its a modelers convention,  it is one used by modelers who havent yet figured out that it shouldnt be white, LOL.  Never saw a contemporary model like that.  It just hits you and its hard to focus on the other wonderful items you built.

 

I prefer the natural look like on this contemporary model.

 

[vossiewulf]

10 hours ago, Rick01 said:

Could you hide the join of the two halves where it's twisted round the knob on the base of the cannon.

No, that would be the hardest place as the rope is being bent severely at that point, getting two parts to line up would be extremely difficult. The only place I can see cutting and gluing working is behind the breeching rings.

 

Mike, yes I think it will work. I will put some glue on the tip of the loops and bisect them there, that leaves a clean joint. I can then slide them on the breeching rings and glue them closed where the joint will be obscured by the breeching rings and eyebolts. That's my theory, at least, will see what happens.

 

 

[vossiewulf]

Another note before an eagle-eyed ship modeler notices: the cannon are upside down. They should be with the trunnions at the bottom, but I would have had to make significant modifications to white metal carriages to make that work, and they would have been too high in the ports as well - Chris designed the kit with the Amati 3 pounders sitting low. So I flipped them with the trunnions on top, it's not too noticeable. I hope.

[usedtosail]

Vossie, if you make the breach lines from a longer length of line, you can thread the line through the ring bolt and seize it to itself with a seizing that you can slide into position, at the same time adjusting the length of the breach line. I used this technique many times for seizings on the Constitution that I had to do in place.

[vossiewulf]

Thanks Dirk and Tom

 

[Old Collingwood]

Your back

 

OC.

[Baker]

Yes, Welcome back 

 

Ps,

Great model.

[vossiewulf]

Round 2 with Syren light brown .018" rope. Color is much better, but it's a bit darker than what Chuck's web site is showing- since I ordered a bunch of light brown line for the running rigging, I'm waiting for Chuck to confirm whether he changed his colors at some point to decide whether I roll ahead now, or wait until that line order arrives. I don't want to make these up only to have to replace them for clashing with the other running rigging.

 

When I was a teenager I did a lot of fly tying, relying on that experience here.

 

 

Edited March 2, 2019 by vossiewulf

[vossiewulf]

For anyone interested in how I'm doing these breeching ropes, although it seems pretty straightforward to me. I'm using dark brown 14/0 unwaxed fly tying line for the small stuff to do the seizings, it's pretty close to correct for scale. I think. Actually I have no idea how you could do this without using fly tying line, trying to do seizings with the bigger stuff that comes in kits would be challenging.

 

As you see, I spent at least a good five minutes turning a couple of posts for my ball vise as a jig. It works well enough, but I need to add clips so I don't need to use tape.

 

I'm not entirely happy with using CA here, so I ordered some flexible fly tying head cement, it's a clear glue used to seal the heads of finished flies.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 4, 2019 by vossiewulf

[BANYAN]

Nice adaption using the vise Vossie.  What brand and model is the vise?  (sorry if you mentioned this earlier)

 

cheers

 

Pat

[src]

Nice work Vossie. For me at least I have found waxed fly tying thread works better, it doesn't catch on the tiny little bits of dry skin on my fingers and separate on me. How are you managing to keep unwaxed thread together? Perhaps it the brand I am using. I have been using Testers dull coat the same way you are using fly cement, I have wondered how it worked, looks like it does the job well, no glossiness that I can see from your pictures.

Sam

[vossiewulf]

Pat, the correct descriptive term is engraver's block, although many call it a ball vise, and mine is from GRS and it's their standard model (6"). Unfortunately they have become pretty stupid expensive. I would recommend looking on EBay either for a used GRS or a new Pepe brand.

 

Sam, I haven't received the fly head cement yet, I'm using CA here and dabbing it with a fingertip to prevent it from forming a gloss coat. However the result is quite stiff of course and that's not very helpful in most cases, so I'm going to try both a flexible CA and the flexible fly tying cement to see if either of those work better.

 

WRT waxed vs. unwaxed, the thread does have a tendency to come apart but not so much that it strays out of the width of the stripe I am winding about the line. So that's ok to me, I'm using unwaxed because I assume gluing the waxed version isn't going to work nearly as well, although I haven't tried it.

Edited March 5, 2019 by vossiewulf

[BANYAN]

Many thanks Vossie, you seem to have a good 'handle' on all things tools (for ship modelling)   You're right about the GRS prices (even on eBay - that is ridiculous)

 

cheers

 

Pat

[src]

Vossie, the waxed thread doesnt get along with water based glue in my opinion, that is why I went with the dull coat, it penetrates in. For me at least it seems to work and doesnt get stupid stiff like CA. Looking forward to your results with the fly cement.

Sam

[vossiewulf]

2 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Many thanks Vossie, you seem to have a good 'handle' on all things tools (for ship modelling)   You're right about the GRS prices (even on eBay - that is ridiculous)

Yeah when I bought mine about 12 years ago I had to do some serious internal rationalization to be willing to pay $350 for it. Now they're above $600 for no apparent reason and out of the range of anyone but professional jewelers. They're hardly complex devices, they have a vise plus to the two halves are joined by a big ball bearing, and then the bottom is filled with lead, so the Chinese shouldn't have a hard time making a decent one- if I didn't have one that is what I would do, look for one at $200 or so on EBay from China.

 

25 minutes ago, src said:

Vossie, the waxed thread doesnt get along with water based glue in my opinion, that is why I went with the dull coat, it penetrates in. For me at least it seems to work and doesnt get stupid stiff like CA. Looking forward to your results with the fly cement.

Sam

Thanks Sam, ok I will give it a try, I have waxed thread in my fly tying stuff too.

[Landlubber Mike]

I think there are already a lot of Chinese GRS knock-offs on eBay. 

[vossiewulf]

Can anyone tell me where to find good drawings/pics of how to rig an anchor on a cutter? What little I can find on anchor rigging mostly focuses on the individual knots and if a stowed anchor is shown, it's for a big ship where the anchors were lashed to the fore channels. The best I can find is one of Tony's contemporary model pics, but I'm unclear about the double block on the cathead and it doesn't show how the buoy would have been stowed. It also have a very odd-looking knot on the anchor cable, not being an anchor clinch or anchor bend that are supposed to be used.

 

 

[Rick01]

The model you've illustrated is similar to the photos I've got of a replica topsail schooner of similar dimensions, in this instance however lashed to the pinrail. I'm afraid I can't help with the knotting however.

 

Rick