IJN Mikasa by CDW - Wave Models - 1:200 scale - PLASTIC

[CDW]

7 hours ago, Salty Dog said:

Thanks for the response. I also did some research and probably saw the same stuff you saw. I wish there were "attachment points" one could order.  I found a Northstar product of turnbuckles and eye bolts, but they are extinct.  They are also 1/350, but I think they'd be find for this purpose.  Going to have to figure out what to do.  Thanks again.

Here is something I often do for attachment points that's small, strong, and easily created yourself. Find some scrap computer component wire or other similar wire of small/fine gauge. Strip the insulation off the wire to use the fine strands to twist into loops like these (seen in the white paint pallet):

 

[Salty Dog]

I ended up using some "extra" parts that I found on the frets. They work well and the others I'm going to "fake". I'm well on the way!

Edited May 30, 2019 by Salty Dog

[CDW]

1 minute ago, Salty Dog said:

I ended up using some "extra" parts that I found on the frets. They work well and the others I'm going to "fake". I'm well on the way!

 

Looks great! I'll bet there are parts for rigging the torpedo nets on those frets as well. Pontos doesn't show where all the parts are to be used.

[Salty Dog]

Thanks man.  Pontos instructions suck! I had to completely tear down the main mast because it was assembled wrong and I couldn't tell by the pictures Pontos put in the manual. Lots and lots of errors and missing information.

[cog]

Now you know what directions we get to put together some of the parts

[Salty Dog]

Formast almost completely installed. Working on the mainmast. Rigging in this scale is crazy, but since the scale is so small, you can't really make any "legit" knots, like you must do in wooden ships.   Like ratlines and deadeyes.

 

Edited May 31, 2019 by Salty Dog

[cog]

Salty Dog, do you have your own buildlog of the Mikasa at MSW? I would like to see a bit more if possible

[RGL]

It’s really nice to see an unpainted PE build. 

[ccoyle]

8 hours ago, cog said:

Salty Dog, do you have your own buildlog of the Mikasa at MSW? I would like to see a bit more if possible

Yes, please start a new log for your model! Not only would our members like to see more of what you are building, but posting progress photos in someone else's log, sometimes referred to as "thread hijacking", is generally frowned upon.

 

Thanks!

[CDW]

11 hours ago, Salty Dog said:

Formast almost completely installed. Working on the mainmast. Rigging in this scale is crazy, but since the scale is so small, you can't really make any "legit" knots, like you must do in wooden ships.   Like ratlines and deadeyes.

 

The next time I build and rig a model the size of Mikasa, I am going to use the same technique to seize the rigging lines that I use for seizing the rigging of my WW1 model airplanes. I cut off a tiny piece of micro brass tubing, run the rigging line through it, then loop it back through the tubing to seize it (with a tiny dab of super glue). Knots wouldn't be appropriate for the rigging on ships from this period, or at least that's my best guess.

 

Here is a photograph of an Albatros biplane where I've seized the rigging using micro tubing:

 

[Salty Dog]

Hi everyone,

Last night as I'm falling asleep I thought "I'm hijacking CDW's (Craig?) build!  I'm going to start my own.  And voila, today a couple have suggested that.  So I will start my own with older pictures of my "build".  I didn't really make a formal build, but I did take a few pictures of the ship as a progressed.  I will upload them.

Craig, I thought about doing exactly what you're talking about to simulate turnbuckles, but I felt the scale would be wrong.  I'm not a scale freak.  Far from it, but every small tube I found seemed to big for this.  I plan on doing something different.  Haven't decided yet.

Anyway, on to my own log!

Thanks everyone.

[cog]

I'll trace you there!

[CDW]

10 minutes ago, Salty Dog said:

Craig, I thought about doing exactly what you're talking about to simulate turnbuckles, but I felt the scale would be wrong.  I'm not a scale freak.  Far from it, but every small tube I found seemed to big for this.  I plan on doing something different.  Haven't decided yet.

Anyway, on to my own log!

Thanks everyone.

The smallest brass tubing I have found is from Trumpeter. Not many shops carry it, you'll just have to do a google search to find a shop of your choosing who has it. Some of it is so small, you can't even pass ez line thread through it, so it can't be out of scale. 

Good luck with your endeavor, and oh, by the way, don't worry about highjacking my thread. I didn't feel you highjacked it at all. To the contrary, I enjoyed your photos and conversation. You're welcome back anytime.

Happy modeling

[Salty Dog]

16 minutes ago, CDW said:

The smallest brass tubing I have found is from Trumpeter. Not many shops carry it, you'll just have to do a google search to find a shop of your choosing who has it. Some of it is so small, you can't even pass ez line thread through it, so it can't be out of scale. 

Good luck with your endeavor, and oh, by the way, don't worry about highjacking my thread. I didn't feel you highjacked it at all. To the contrary, I enjoyed your photos and conversation. You're welcome back anytime.

Happy modeling

Thanks Craig!  I'll look for that tubing. I even looked at some of the "crimps" for jewelry making and they were too large.  I appreciate the info, and thanks very much for the kind words.  Take care.

[RGL]

Where do we find this micro tubing?

[CDW]

48 minutes ago, RGL said:

Where do we find this micro tubing?

Here is a picture of it Greg. Not sure where you might source it on your side of the planet, but I guess it wouldn't be hard to find. Maybe BNA Modelworld has it.

 

Set 1 comes with the smallest diameter tubes, set 2 just a little larger. Honestly, the tubes in set 1 are so small (inside diameter), I would advise set 2 as the most practical to use. 

 

The photo is in high definition, so you should be able to magnify it to see the details.

 

[Salty Dog]

Hey CDW, did you have any trouble with the main derrick?  Part number 18?  It's impossible to rig that thing without interfering with other rigging. You'd have to thread other rigging through its rigging and vice versa for there to be no interference, at least on the model. After rigging the smoke stacks, there's nowhere for the derrick to go without tangling with other rigging. Same as when rigging the life boats. Some attachment points are located where the rigging would touch the boats, sometimes drape over them.  I removed all the life boats to figure out how I"m going to place them so that they don't interfere with the rigging.  How did you do?

[cog]

8 hours ago, RGL said:

Where do we find this micro tubing?

Anywhere they sell model railroad materials, Greg. A lot of brass rods, and tubing is used in that. BNA Models downundah has them, just checked their site

[CDW]

10 hours ago, Salty Dog said:

Hey CDW, did you have any trouble with the main derrick?  Part number 18?  It's impossible to rig that thing without interfering with other rigging. You'd have to thread other rigging through its rigging and vice versa for there to be no interference, at least on the model. After rigging the smoke stacks, there's nowhere for the derrick to go without tangling with other rigging. Same as when rigging the life boats. Some attachment points are located where the rigging would touch the boats, sometimes drape over them.  I removed all the life boats to figure out how I"m going to place them so that they don't interfere with the rigging.  How did you do?

I had lots of problems with both issues. If I had it to do over again, I would change the rigging so the main derrick is in a raised position rather than lowered. Otherwise, I just positioned the boom in a fixed position, a location between rigging lines as I assume the way they used it was to raise and lower it as needed between rigging as there is no way the boom can swing between all those lines.

As for the rigging interfering with the ship's boats (or vice versa), I repositioned my rigging location points several times to find something that would work without interference. It's frustrating, I know. 

[Salty Dog]

I figured you might have run into problems. A BIG reason I don't like to try to be super accurate. Although these PE kits are fantastic, they often don't get things right. If you build the model as Trumpeter instructs you to, no problem. If you build it with Pontos, lots of problems. If you try to be accurate, lots and lots of problems. I've been looking at any pictures of the actual ship, and just about everywhere you look, it doesn't match up with the model. I realize there are different versions according to years, but still.

I'm going to work on my HMS Hood next, and I'm just going to have fun! Might **** off a lot of people, but not all.

Here's early work on it.

 

[CDW]

Looks sweet! Love the WW2 British ships.

[lmagna]

Hers is a source for the tubing that ships to Australia;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRU09943-Trumpeter-Tools-20cm-Brass-Pipe-Set-2-0-7-0-8-0-9-1-0/323772754375?epid=1738945549&hash=item4b625c29c7:g:dMYAAOSwlYNcrWwh

 

This may be a better and quicker source for down under;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUMPETER-Model-Craft-Master-Tools-20cm-Brass-Pipe-Set-2-8pcs-09943-P9943/273339625231?epid=1494930026&hash=item3fa44faf0f:g:DTEAAOSwLgNaT5uU

 

Edited June 2, 2019 by lmagna

[CDW]

On 6/1/2019 at 3:45 PM, Salty Dog said:

I'm going to work on my HMS Hood next, and I'm just going to have fun! Might **** off a lot of people, but not all.

Here's early work on it.

Unless you're doing paid, commissioned work, the only one you need to please is yourself. That's why I have no desire to do paid, commissioned work. 😎

Then this great hobby of ours (that we love) might be a chore, not a joy.

[Salty Dog]

4 hours ago, CDW said:

Unless you're doing paid, commissioned work, the only one you need to please is yourself. That's why I have no desire to do paid, commissioned work. 😎

Then this great hobby of ours (that we love) might be a chore, not a joy.

I agree.  I've built several on commission and it was too stressful.  My biggest dilemma, is where the hell do you put them all when you're done?!

[CDW]

2 minutes ago, Salty Dog said:

I agree.  I've built several on commission and it was too stressful.  My biggest dilemma, is where the hell do you put them all when you're done?!

To be honest, I end up giving a lot of finished models away. My joy is in building them.

[Dr PR]

Try looking for hypodermic tubing - like is used to make needles. Several places on line sell it. It comes in diameters down to 0.006" outside diameter and 0.002" inside diameter. For comparison normal notebook paper is about 0.003" thickness. 24 lb printer paper is 0.004" thick.

 

Edited June 3, 2019 by Dr PR

[J11]

CDW, very impressive work on her! 

[CDW]

6 hours ago, Jonathan11 said:

CDW, very impressive work on her! 

Thanks for the kind words, Jonathan. One of these days, I'm going to drag out my CSS Alabama and USS Kearsarge kits from Revell and build them. I only hope I can do half as good a job on them as you've done on your CSS Alabama. 

My Kearsarge kit is so old, it's the one that came with the pre-painted copper clad hull back in those days. The kit box is practically falling apart. 

I've been thinking about buying the Cottage Industries update sets for both models, along with the wooden decks that are available nowadays.

[J11]

I highly recommend CI's upgrade kits for those. My stomps didn't turn out as straight as I wanted but kinda looks like battle damage so definitely get some better stomps than I did, nice you have both of the kits also. Never heard of that pre-painted hull one before, very interesting. I look forward to your future build blogs on them.

[CDW]

32 minutes ago, Jonathan11 said:

I highly recommend CI's upgrade kits for those. My stomps didn't turn out as straight as I wanted but kinda looks like battle damage so definitely get some better stomps than I did, nice you have both of the kits also. Never heard of that pre-painted hull one before, very interesting. I look forward to your future build blogs on them.

Yes, the very early Revell kits had pre painted copper hulls below the waterline. Darn good paint, too. It held up just fine after all these years in the box. Box is in tatters, but box art still visible. Will take the kits out for some pictures when I can get around to it. 

One time years ago, a fellow sent me a ton of great information and line drawings of the Kearsarge. I have looked and looked for that package he sent but cannot find it yet. It had everything I needed to make corrections.