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Posted

2 hours ... not bad. How do you apply your CA? I use a small piece of bass rod (0.5mm thick), the CA on a piece of plastic  (everything seems to be packed in plastic so that's the obvious choice) and dip the rod in the CA and apply it to the parts.

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

I think I wouldn't like the nossle with the stuff. When I see how my CA easily runs out of the bottle ... I would do a transparent paint job :o

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

when I buy the Testor's glue in the tubes,  I buy the pack that has the nozzles in it.   I have a bunch of them,  but what I use them for the most though,  is wood filler.  I cut the neck so I can fit a nozzle in the hole,  and I can extrude a fine line of filler wherever I need it.  I hardly use them for glue because they always tend to clog up.

 

your doing a great job so far.......definitely wouldn't class you as stupid ;) 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

"Took way longer than I thought to paint this." That's what they all say...

 

You have a very nice finish on those items, and I have to say your railings look very sharp!! The mast doesn't look bad at all, that is to say the rungs stand out quite well

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted (edited)

THANK YOU!  The top 4 rungs look solid. where it looks like the top of the ladder ends there's another 4 hidden rungs lol. but all in all I'm happy, it was waaaay worst before. Painting always takes long for me. after looking at what I had to paint I said to myself 15 drops of thinner and 30 drops of paint should do it. I ended up doing that 3 more times! I was way off! 

also I don't know if I should bother shading any of these pieces. maybe just the ladder on the mast?

Edited by semorebutts
Posted

Hi,

 

You have a beautiful build here.

 

I use a simple home made tool for precisely placing tiny drops of CA.  You take a needle and snip off about 1/2 the eye leaving you with a small “V” shaped end. Stick the pointy end into a dowel for a handle.  I then place a drop of CA onto a piece of foil and dip the tool into the drop.  The “V” will pick up some glue and when you place it where you want the glue to go, capillary action draws it from the needle.  When the end gets clogged with glue, take a lighter to it and it burns right off.

 

Best,

John

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

Posted

For Tamiya I use 1:1 paint:thinner

On Vallejo Air I use it straight from the flask, the others 2:1 1:1 paint:thinner ratio, it depends how it works out I have used 1:2 ratio for it's primer. It just depends on the weather/humidity temp, etc. It isn't an exact science you might say. I had to store my airbrush and paints, as night frosts are cooling the attic, and spraying gets rather difficult whit frozen paint ;)

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Put your paint pots in some warm water before loading your brush. And don't let the paint freeze. Shouldn't have much of a odor issue with the acrylics, so store then in your work-space.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Cog I have only ever done 2:1 ratio and only ever used tamiya. Seems to be working out ok so far. I had a horrible experience with lifecolor paints. Its to bad they have an entire kreigsmarine set with excellent colors.  I have the set but its awful to Airbrush.  I wonder which paint company has colors for the missouri? I dont think tamiya does but I'm scared to use anything else after the disaster with life color. 

Canute, warm water, thats a good idea! thanks for the tip. 

Posted

I know you can't, but when you know the colour code from lifeColor, you can get the corresponding colour from the chart. I've got a another chart somewhere which gives the mixtures for certain colours, but haven't found it yet

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Perhaps THIS LINK to Kriegsmarine colours may be of use to you. If you click on the "Return to Paint Chips" button it also has the US Navy colours and others.

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

Posted

That just looks fantastic. Weathered enough to look realistic but not overdone, and lovely detail. This has been really fun to follow.

Posted

Thank you Eric. It's been my pleasure as the advice I get here is great and plentyfull.  Im just relieved people actually watch my build. 

 

I was starting to install the catspult catwalks and paravane booms. Just as I was getting started I got an emergency call into work, but before I left I got one catwalk on. Sorry it's not much progress. 

IMG_1091.thumb.JPG.c1fdbfffacba27f8c45f101be2a45c61.JPG

 

Posted
On 19/11/2017 at 12:53 AM, semorebutts said:

Cog I have only ever done 2:1 ratio and only ever used tamiya. Seems to be working out ok so far. I had a horrible experience with lifecolor paints. Its to bad they have an entire kreigsmarine set with excellent colors.  I have the set but its awful to Airbrush.  I wonder which paint company has colors for the missouri? I dont think tamiya does but I'm scared to use anything else after the disaster with life color. 

Canute, warm water, thats a good idea! thanks for the tip. 

I use lifecolor  and had no problems  but also hand paint never spray,    at 1/350 scale the sub assemblies are small enouth to be painted by hand,   what I did/do find usefull is to keep the pots stired whils't working with them also to keep the tops of the pots/jars real clean from dried paint residue.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

THESE are the ones I got for my Bismarck. They would be the exact guns you're looking for :).

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

Posted

tuning in from my work week Scott....you've made some really nice progress!   the super structure looks really nice with the railings.....very good paint work as well.

    I've got three of the life color sets......haven't tried to use them yet.  I use enamels for all of my models,  although I have a few acrylic colors kick'in around.  the Testor thinner that I use comes with a secondary cap....a sort of plug to prevent leakage.   I use it though to measure out the amount of thinner to prep the paint.  since the EZ airbrush I use,  uses the 1/4 oz bottles as the siphon pot,  I just mix up the whole bottle......I get empty bottles by buying the 1/4 oz thinners.   I use Model Master as well,  for the flats,  but they come in 1/2 oz bottles,  so it's good to have the extra bottles.   look online for conversion charts.....they can also give reference to the difference brands and what to use.  for the particular model though.....I guess you'd have to see if anyone published that information.   it is out there though........your doing a really nice job!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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