HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale

[Stuntflyer]

Matthias,

 

Areas of the figureheads lower back where removed in order to get it to sit close to the forward edge of the stem? The stem was left untouched. The cheeks and hair brackets were added to the model before any of the friezes were applied.

 

Mike

[Jorge Diaz O]

El 18/5/2021 a las 16:54, Stuntflyer dijo:

Los cáncamos y los anillos partidos para los baluartes y la cubierta del cañón están listos. ¡Chico! Me encanta hacerlos🤥Los hice lo más pequeños que pude. El diámetro interno de los pernos es de alrededor de .025 ", lo que se ajusta al alicate de punta redonda más pequeño que tengo. Solo lo suficiente para que pasen los anillos de calibre 24. Tenga cuidado de no perforar demasiado los baluartes contra los mamparos de madera contrachapada. difícil de romper un poco si lo hicieras.

 

 

Miguel

 

Hola, hermoso trabajo señor, serán  "scoppers", sería un gran detalle.

 

Edited June 26, 2021 by Jorge Diaz O

[Jorge Diaz O]

"scoppers" ( google traslator)

[Stuntflyer]

Nope! I won't be putting them on the Winnie. I see that your working on your own Winnie. Will we ever see photos of your progress?

 

Mike

[Jorge Diaz O]

18 minutes ago, Stuntflyer said:

¡No! No los pondré en el Winnie. Veo que estás trabajando en tu propia Winnie. ¿Veremos alguna vez fotos de tu progreso?

 

Miguel

 

Thanks for answering teacher. Very soon I will upload pictures of my work in this incredible project. I follow in his footsteps to make a great model. I hope so.

[Stuntflyer]

I've started work on some of the deck details starting first by painting the inside of the transom. When I airbrushed the bulwarks there was good control of the color depth and I was able to mask off as well. Not being able to easily mask off the transom area, I decided to use a flat 1/2" stroke brush instead. I started with W&N Crimson for several coats, followed by my usual 10:1 Crimson and Burnt Umber.  This gave me better control over the darker tone while making sure that the color didn't get too dark.

 

I removed all of the char from the Quarter Gallery beams except for the bottom edges. After fitting all of them in place they were numbered from 1-20. The last beam that goes against the transom had to be scratch built. The shape of my transom and the supplied laser cut beams didn't match up well and I wasn't going to try to edge bend them into shape.

 

I moved onto assembling the bulkhead at the great cabin. I decided to leave one door open. The three exposed edges of the door were painted to better match its overall color. I didn't paint to a perfectly even color. Instead I left the darker color showing through in places in order to simulate wear and tear that might occur during normal use. The top corner of the door is glued to the beam above to help keep it in open position.

 

 

I added the two gun port lids that will remain closed at the cabin. Also, I removed the rudder due to the pintel at the top breaking when I accidentally pushed the rudder too far. I was able to remove it without removing the top of the rudder trunk. Once it was off the ship it was easy to fix. I removed just enough off the top of the rudder in order to make it possible to push it up high enough to clear the pins. The top of the rudder still cannot be seen when it is in place. I will put the rudder on when I feel it is safe to do so. No harm done!

 

Mike

Edited July 5, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[FrankWouts]

On 6/25/2021 at 1:54 PM, Hubac's Historian said:

That is just picture perfect, Mike!

 

If I were building this model, one thing I would be tempted to experiment with would be to use the printed frieze as a template to overpaint with either an oil, or a full-bodied acrylic.  My objective would be to try and approximate the slight relief one sees on the original models.

 

As it is, the printed frieze looks fantastic, but it could be interesting to see whether hand-painting enhances or detracts.

 

Anyway, it is just a thought.  I really enjoy watching your progress, here, Mike.

Hi Hubac,

 

I was having the same thought. Though the printed freezes look awesome, how will they look in ten years from now?
Will they look fainted or perhaps there will be only a white printing paper on the freezes left?
Perhaps this risk will be less when letting it print at a professional printing shop with dito ink on high quality paper?

Is oil painting them a totally bad idea?

 

Frank.

 

Edited July 5, 2021 by FrankWouts
I keep making typo's and writing bad English at first......

[FrankWouts]

Hi Mike,

That again looks so awesome and clean: beautiful inspiring work. That shine of the red paint on the inside of that  transom in the last picture looks so nice!
I specially like the aft gun port hinges: now I clearly understand how they open vertically as I always thought they would open under an angle...

Thanks for your always clear explanations and well thought through steps you took and describe so clearly, also with the little accident with your rudder, action you took to solve it and decision to place it back later when it's safe to do so...

This will not only be a reference but also a great help when we get to this point.

 

Frank.

[Stuntflyer]

Thank you, Frank! Well, for sure I'm no artist so painting the friezes would not be an option for me.

 

Mike

Edited July 5, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[Gahm]

Your model is really amazing - just outstanding craftsmanship!

 

Thomas

[Stuntflyer]

Thank you, Thomas and for all the "Likes"

 

Mike

[Tigersteve]

I’ve said it before. Mike’s projects make you elevate your own work. Just excellent! Thank you for raising the standard. 
Steve

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

gorgeous Mike. 

[Stuntflyer]

Before adding the forward bulkhead I needed to get the two guns which sit between the bulkheads installed. Here are some of the things I did when I made the carriages.

 

The laser char was removed with a sanding stick. Afterwards the diameter of each truck was measured and grouped according to size.

 

The axles were partially shaped with a pillar file and some sandpaper. Then I used a drilled hacksaw scraper to make the axle round. I did this with a push and turn motion while moving along the axle.

 

The mill was used to make the holes for the bolts

 

 

 

Sections of the carriages were assembled and spray painted with an airbrush.

 

By turning a round needle file, I was able to remove material from the carriage so that the eye bolts would sit deeper into the carriage side. The filed area was painted red before inserting the eye bolts.

 

 

 

 

After adding the two more gun port lids, I installed the two guns. All of the guns will be pinned to the deck with 28 gauge wire inserted into the rear trucks.

 

Then the forward bulkhead was completed along with some lodging knees.

 

Mike

 

Edited November 20, 2022 by Stuntflyer

[Hubac's Historian]

That is a nice touch to file a deeper relief so that they eyes snug into the carriage sides!  The photography is also excellent, per usual.  This is truly a model that will hold up to intense scrutiny 🔎

[Stuntflyer]

The only way to recess those eye bolts in boxwood is to remove some material. I understand that the Yellow Cedar is soft enough, where just a push on the eye bolt will recess it.

 

Mike

[druxey]

A tiny gouge, aka hypodermic needle, suitable ground and sharpened  does the trick.

[Stuntflyer]

Just a small update on the progress made over the last few days.

 

Mike

Edited July 20, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[Rustyj]

Outstanding Mike, as usual.

[Stuntflyer]

More progress. .

 

Mike

Edited August 19, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[TomShipModel]

Excellent work Mike.

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks, Tom!

[PRS]

I don't know how you get such precision in your work. It is excellent.

 

 

[Stuntflyer]

Paul, thank you for the kind words!

[Stuntflyer]

I forgot to add this in yesterdays post. Ready for paint. . .

Mike

[scrubbyj427]

Looks wonderful Mike! Stunning little mini kit, seems like It would Be hard to add paint To.

 

JJ

[Stuntflyer]

6 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

seems like It would Be hard to add paint To.

I thought that it would look better in red so I went with that. Brushing would have been iffy, at least for me. I used the airbrush with a coat of Dullcote on top.

Edited August 19, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[Thistle17]

Stopping in again Mike. Inspirational work. I am painting Cheerful gun carriages in box by hand with acrylic and I am not liking the results. I have tought of pulling out the air brush and having at it. I was a dedicated user of Floquil products and even have much of a gallon of their solvent left over. Indeed a gallon!

 

So my question is what are you using for your spray paints?

 

Thanks

 

Joe

[Stuntflyer]

I use Winsor & Newton or Grumbacher water based Acrylic paints in a tube.

Edited August 19, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[Thistle17]

Diluted to what ratio for spraying Mike?

Joe