Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale

[Chuck]

Once the jib and foresail halliards were done all I really had to do was rig the flag halliard.  This will complete the rigging.....once I add the rope coils to all belaying points.

 

The flag halliard (.018 light brown) Is run through the simulated sheave on the starboard side of the ball truck on top of the mast.    Both ends run down to the deadeyes where they are belayed.   One to each deadeye.   Then they are finished up with some rope coils so the belaying looks credible. 

 

I adjusted the tension on all lines and then finished every belaying point off with a nice neat rope coil.  The flag was made in teh usual way and you will get one with the rigging package.   This pretty much finishes off the model.  Here are some photos.  The only thing I have left to do is make a few oars.   I will get to that soon.   But the model is pretty much done.  

 

The grapnel was finished off with some .025 rope as well.

 

Let me know if you have any questions.  I will now try and catch up with the instructions so you guys can get this far too!!!

 

 

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

Well done Chuck. I hope mine looks half as good! 

[Nirvana]

Chuck, that is just amazing.

Crisp and clean. Beautiful!

[Richmond]

Wonderful

[shipshaper]

Absolutely beautiful, hope to be half that good someday. Thanks Chuck for sharing all this.

[Trussben]

Gorgeous Chuck, 

 

Do you still intend to add sails to the model?

 

 

Edited January 2, 2019 by Trussben

[Stuntflyer]

Excellent work as usual, Chuck. You certainly know your way around AYC. I'm still learning!

 

Mike

Edited January 3, 2019 by Stuntflyer

[Cricket]

Wow. A masterful work of model ship building.

[Landrotten Highlander]

Hi chuck,

will you let me know when you have stocked up on the kit, and when you are able to ship across the pond again?  I am now entering a very busy period with the Uni and might not have time to follow up on a day-to-day business - and I HATE to miss out on the kit for a 3rd time

[Chuck]

Sure thing!!!

[Maximilian]

March 3

At this point are plans-only available for scratch builders?

Thanks

Max

[Chuck]

No, plans are NOT available.  You must buy a kit.  They are just out of stock and should be restocked soon.  Waiting on some 1/32" cedar sheets to make another ten kits.  As soon as I get them I will finish them up.

 

I will announce here that they are available.

[SandyBay]

On 3/4/2019 at 12:54 AM, Chuck said:

No, plans are NOT available.  You must buy a kit.  They are just out of stock and should be restocked soon.  Waiting on some 1/32" cedar sheets to make another ten kits.  As soon as I get them I will finish them up.

 

I will announce here that they are available.

Ah, perhaps I should have read to the end of the thread BEFORE I emailed you asking if you intend to continue offering the kit. 🙂

[lili.marlene3945]

It is a very good job !  I like it so much and it gave me the taste to get back to the "Longboat Armed for War 1834" from the monography by Gérard Delacroix (from scratch) that I have began last year but I had failed to do the mould and I began a sailing boat, promising myself to do that longboat some day.

[BobG]

Chuck, I'm about to try and make the belaying pins. What is the length of the pins that you made for this boat? Thanks.

 

Bob

[Chuck]

Dont know off-hand but the easiest way to tell is measure from the plans.  I think they were around 11/16" 

[BobG]

Thanks Chuck. I went back to the plans and finally found the belay pin...it's easy to miss but it's there. Your guess of around 11/16 is right on...maybe a smidgen over.

[BobG]

On 12/16/2018 at 4:00 PM, Chuck said:

 

I added the horse under the tiller which is typical for the period and as has been discussed numerous times.  This not only follows the two contemporary models that are fully rigged but also contemporary rigging plans.  One great example can be found I believe on page 80 of mays book.

 

The horse was made from 1/16" brass rod (blackened).

Chuck, does the horse have a slight upward curve towards the center? I've seen it flat in some builds and yours looks like it has an upward curve. Does it also curve slightly back towards the transom in the middle? I can't really tell from the photo and it looks like you drilled the holes for it about 1/4" from the transom...? 

 

Thanks,

Bob

[Chuck]

I made it curve up just a little because I would avoid a completely straight horse.  Just for aesthetics.  There is no curve towards the transom.  It is always equal distance from the transom.

[EdT]

Beautiful work, Chuck!

 

Ed

[BobG]

On 12/31/2018 at 6:02 AM, Chuck said:

The shrouds, backstays and forestay were served but only where they are seized around the mast.  The area served extends about 1" below the where it was seized.   This is an optional detail.  You dont have to do this.  But it does look good.

Chuck, I ordered one of your serving machines and it should arrive within a week or so. I've never done any rigging or serving but I'm looking forward to learning to do it. Can you recommend a brand and size of thread to use with your serving machine? Also, does the size of the serving thread change with the size of the rope being served?

 

As always, many thanks,

Bob

[Chuck]

I just use gutteman polyester thread.  I get 100 weight thread the same color at any craft store.   For thinner ropes you can use fly tying thread.

[BobG]

On 12/16/2018 at 4:00 PM, Chuck said:

I added the horse under the tiller which is typical for the period and as has been discussed numerous times.  This not only follows the two contemporary models that are fully rigged but also contemporary rigging plans.

Chuck, I have a question about the actual operation of the horse and the main sheet. It looks like the main sheet and block would get in the way of the rudder handle when the boom was sheeted in or out and the boom moved from one side to the other because of where the traveler is located with the main sheet and block attached to it. How did the sailor steering the boat with the rudder avoid having the main sheet and block get in the way of the rudder handle?

 

Bob

[Chuck]

Yupp ....but it is still

correct.  This has been discussed to death.   It is the way it was done however....

[BobG]

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

Yupp ....but it is still

correct.  This has been discussed to death.   It is the way it was done however....

Thanks, Chuck. I haven't figured out how to use the search function to narrow the search down to something very specific. When I search for something I invariably end up with every word being searched for which results in tons of posts that are irrelevant.

 

I know that when I've sailed on my brother-in-laws boat we have to duck under the boom when coming about but the main sheet attaches to the boom much further towards the mast. It's hard to imagine why they did it the way they did on these longboats.

 

Bob

[BobG]

I'm making the belaying pins and was wondering if it is best to glue them in place or just leave them loose in  their holes?

 

Bob

[Chuck]

Just leave them loose.   I did.  No reason to glue them in.

[BobG]

On 12/17/2018 at 5:30 PM, Chuck said:

Making thimbles if you want to give it a try.  Just use a small punch to lightly tap both sides so they flare out.  Then blacken them.

I wasn't able to get evenly rounded edges on the thimbles I was trying to make using the Starret mini center punches that I have. What kind and brand of punch is that that you use for thimbles? Do you know where it can be purchased? Also, how do you hold the tiny sections of brass tubing while you are punching them? Thanks.

 

Bob

Edited March 4, 2020 by BobG

[Chuck]

Its a micro drill bit after the bit broke off.  They are perfect and conical to use for making thimbles.

[BobG]

6 hours ago, Chuck said:

Its a micro drill bit after the bit broke off.  They are perfect and conical to use for making thimbles.

Thanks, Chuck. I'm still not exactly sure what I'm looking at here in your photo though. Did you grind the top end of the shank on a micro drill bit to obtain that point and then add that tiny "washer" above it? Or...??? And, then did you cut off the fluted part of the broken drill bit so you could tap it with a small hammer?

 

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 4, 2020 by BobG