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SHIPSCAT

IL Leudo by SHIPSCAT (Jolene) - Mamoli - scale 1:34

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2 hours ago, SHIPSCAT said:

I am sorry if I have offended anyone.

 

After spending 4 years in the USMC way back a beginning time (feels like it anyway) I daresay I've seen the air get far bluer than what most of population can spit out.    Cursing does seem to go with model ship building doesn't it?  Sometimes bouncing various bits off the wall and storming out of the workshop helps.

 

I would suggest that after spraying on a light first coat, let it dry completely per the instructions.  Then do additional light coats as needed. There's a learning curve to spray painting and I admit, I'm not very good at it so I don't paint.

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Posted (edited)

All part of the fun of modelling. ⚠️

 

A couple of questions.

What paint are you using ?

What masking tape are you using ?

 

For masking, I suggest using specific modelling tape, I use Tamiya personally but this video covers a range of different types.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPRIsrfukdU

 

The reason for this is domestic masking tape will frequently give the effect you experienced, the adhesive is too strong and pulls off the paint/varnish underneath.

 

I've found the 18mm Tamiya tape, half on the model, the other half on newspaper to cover the rest of the model works well for me.

 

Just remember, you learn far more from mistakes and errors. It's all a part of improving. And I think we've all experienced a wide range of 'issues' in our modelling. You'll sort it out.

 

This may help non australians imagine the language in your house. 

h605EC019

 

Edit: I'd also suggest using brushes rather than sprays. I've found the paint adheres better, you have more control over coverage, (a number of thin coats again).

There's also the point that that's how the originals were painted so bonus points for originality.

Edited by johnothanswift

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Posted (edited)

Mark loves to paint the sky, he is just modest ;) 

 

Jo, you've got the modelbuilder's attitude. You will get through, the first build is the hardest, it is often said. Well, lass, I find all my builds hard, and painting aint easy. Fortunately, I can spray layer upon layer, upon, layer, upon layer, until I changed the scale of my build to full size. As long as I learn something I don't mind. Try to find out what went wrong. When you pull off the paint with your masking tape, the adherence of your tape is to strong. Plastic builders often try to get a less sticky masking tape, or - this will sound odd - put the tape on their forhead, or on their trousers first before applying it to the build to diminish the initial strong stickiness, and hence, avoid pulling off the paint layer(s)

 

I use several brands of masking tape, however, lately I am using the blue or purple "home and garden" painters tape, as those seem to be less sticky than e.g. Tamiya (I use the latter on bare plastic)

 

Keep you spirits up, and go for it, I look forward to see the result of your renewed effort

 

slàinte

Edited by cog

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15 hours ago, johnothanswift said:

What paint are you using ?

What masking tape are you using ?

Hello Johnothan

First I taped the line up with Tamiya 5mm masking tape for curves (the white one), then masked the varnish part with Tamiya 18mm tape (yellow one).

Sanded the varnish down that had to be painted, then a coat of white primer.

Then a mist coat of green gloss spray can (Rust-Oleum 2x Ultra cover Paint and Primer) it says on the can it can be re-coated in 1 hour, I left it for just over 2 hours, then re coated it.

I then removed the tape, it was the white tape that pulled the varnish off.

 

I am going to repaint it again next week, the white I will hand paint with white gloss acrylic.

 

This may be a little setback but it is not going to beat me, I don't give up that easy.

 

Jo.

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I've never tried the white Tamiya tape, only the yellow so I'll watch that if I use the white.

 

Rust-oleum is a good brand, I've just painted a cane shelf unit for my partner with that although drying time is a bit slower in winter. I was giving it 1 day between coats but it's a bit colder here than it will be with you.

 

Keep up the good work, I'm enjoying watching your build and this log will be a big help for many builders. 

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Jo,

That look great, you have done very well indeed.

For masking many here like the Tamiya tape. there is also Frog tape, might be a different name in your land. probably gorF since you-all live upside down. Our scenic painters use a 3m tape found in automotive paint stores:

http://autops.co.nz/tape-masking-products/676-3m-233-3mm-masking-tape.html

That site is NZ not your world but you should be able to find it if interested. Another trick I see them use to stop bleed through is to apply some comparable clear before laying on the color. Try it on some scrap first to get a feel for it.

And BTW, my fingers dont bleed, Better Half does the house cleaning.....  I better go nor before I get hurt.

Sam

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3 hours ago, src said:

gorF

Hello Sam

Haha no I don't think they do gorF tape at my shop.

 

I will hand paint the white today and may start the deck planks.

I have been talking to my boss, will send you a PM.

 

So nice to see you back again.

 

Jo.

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Hello all.

 

Thank you all for your messages it is greatly appreciated.

 

There are some nice people out there and we don't realise it, my dancing partner on a Thursday nights has been around cooking my dinner for me and making cups of tea, he also had a go at cleaning the house for me bless his soul.

 

Again thank you all.

 

Will have a go at my build tomorrow all being well.

 

Jo.

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Hello shipmates.

 

Just a small up date.

I have started the planking of the deck, but as the frames are curved the edge of the planks are higher than the one before it.

I did sand part of it down and it feels Ok.

 

But now according to the book I have to cut the tops of some more frames off, I will then have to re-paint the white again.

 

Angry Jo 😡.

 

1871693577_ILLEUDO39_0010.thumb.jpg.9e80d1a123033b630574998d7148066e.jpg

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these types of fishing vessels do call for the bulwark posts to be removed.  I thought you mentioned earlier that you had done it.......I see the ones at the bow and stern have been removed.  hopefully you didn't cement the bulwark panels to them......it will be a clean cut.

 

I have only done a couple ships where I did this.  to me it gives a good cement point for the cap rails.  I have seen though that on some kits,  the existing posts aren't even or equal,  making the inner bulwark look shabby.  on one of my models I cut them off and used strip stock to replace them,  so they would look the same all the way back and still give me the ability to cement the cap rails on firmly.  on some ships of this type,  the instructions may have you do this after the deck is planked.  why....I have no idea.......it's not that hard to trim planks to fit the bulwarks.  read ahead in your instructions...it's the best way to avoid surprises ;) 

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Hello Popeye

 

The instruction book is so bad that I am now going on a video that I have on my PC.

He/she has cut all the tops off the frames apart from the two by the cabin.

 

If you are saying cut all of them off I will do so.

 

Thank you for your help and advice.

 

Jo.

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Hello Shipmates

 

Update, I have done what Popeye said and that was to cut off all the tops of the frames, I think he was correct as it looks a lot better now, thank you Popeye for your advice.

 

I have finished the deck planking, now started to sand the planks down with 80 grit then I will go over them again with 120 grit and finish with 320 grit, the planks are 1.5mm thick so I should be Ok with the sanding.

 

Next is I have to cut the hatch parts out, then a coat of sanding sealer I can then paint the white again.

After that I have a strip of wood that goes round the edge of the deck, on top of that are some vertical strips of wood then the handrail.

 

Thank you all for the advice on my log and also by PM's, also your likes that I do appreciate so much.

 

Jo.

 

1661261830_ILLEUDO40_0003.thumb.jpg.2d687e7095e983a0399521bab70e24a3.jpg167411628_ILLEUDO40_0007.thumb.jpg.a92a8a9d30522a1cb80246f899e9eac9.jpg

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your welcome.......before you paint the inner bulwarks,  be sure that they are smooth.   you did a great job planking the deck....another suggestion would be that in the future,  measure the planking around the holds,  so to limit the amount of trimming you'll need to do.  for now,  do be careful with the bulwarks....you don't want to crack them.  I'm not sure about the instructions,  but after you finish the deck,  you can either cut a bunch of posts to put back in place,  or run a strip along the top edge of the bulwarks.   from what I've seen of the model,  you should do both.   this may also be your box art as well

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.9e53ab7d67da9c1fa4c508f79baee064.jpg

from what I see here,  they ran a strip of 3/16 along the inner edge of the bulwarks,  and then added post under it for added strength.   the cap rails will have a good amount of surface to be cemented to.   I'm only guessing about the 3/16........measure the width of your cap rails and go 1/32 under that.....that will produce a nice lip around the inside rails.

    don't doubt yourself........your doing a fine job!  look ahead in your instructions,  so you can anticipate the next step and prep for it.  it will go much easier.......and when you run into a problem,  you'll be better able to come up with a solution.   don't fuss too much with the deck.......remember,  it is a work boat....it can look a little grungy ;)  

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Hello Popeye

 

I did the first plank down the centre line of the deck so that when I planked upto or just over the hatch holes the other planks should line up, so the first plank was just a guide plank (yes I know I put two on but I thought I was wasting my time and wood).

 

The vertical posts are 2x3mm, I was going to varnish them so I will have white bulwarks and varnished post, do you think that it will look fussy, can you, Carl, Sam and Mark advise me please.

I have not sanded the deck down that much as you said Popeye it is a working boat, I will finish the deck in Danish Oil so it will look flat (Carl will be happy with me as I am using Danish Oil 🥰).

 

Jo.

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Jo,

 

Nice work!

 

The deck looks good. I had similar problems on my latest build with varying thickness of the deck planks. It just takes a lot of sanding to get them smooth. I finished with 0000 steel wool and a coat of clear lacquer.

 

How did you make the black grout lines between the planks? They look very good.

 

I second what Popeye said about being careful with the bulwarks. With the frame ribs removed they are vulnerable to cracking. If that happens it can be difficult to get the planks to align properly again - they will have minds of their own, like herding cats. I would put the replacement frames on as soon as possible to add strength. If they protrude above the bulwark a bit you can sand them down before adding the cap rail.

 

Also, having the frames in place and sanded to the proper angle will cause the cap rail to fit correctly. If you attach the cap rail first and then try to place the frames the cap rail might be at the wrong angle and it will be more trouble trying to cut each frame the proper length.

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Jo, you do gerat progress! 'thanksMany 'thanks, Madam, for sharing with your shipmates and the grumpy old rest ;)

 

I am learning a lot from your build and am going to ask some questions later, as I have glued at home's chair by reading your thread and am in a hurry now to come to work in time! 

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not so much that the bulwarks will go out of alignment Phil,  but it weakens then considerably.  the planks have been bent to shape and will keep the shape now that they've been cemented together.  I don't know how many times I had to repair the Sergal Thermopylae I'm building........I swore I'd never do it again.   if all the posts were not similar and equal.........it would be the only reason ;) 

 

it's your model Jo.......paint as you would like.   I also noted that they went with a painted deck,  rather than a wood grain deck.   that's your decision as well.....I think it looks good the way you have it  :)   any aspect about the model is your domain........keep in mind though not to stray from the subject concept and not to modify the fittings too much.   the two things to keep in mind is functionality and probability when adding realism.  think of the period in which this vessel was common.   you model shows your effort........I applaud that👍

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Posted (edited)

Hello Dr PR

 

Thank you and all of you also.

 

The pen I used for the lines is a,  ZIG (cartoonist) MANGAK A FLEXIBLE (medium), I got mine from the Art shop.

 

 

Jo.

Edited by SHIPSCAT

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Jo,

 

Did you "paint" the edges of the planks before putting them in place, or were the grout lines drawn on after the planks were on the deck?

 

Phil

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Hello Phil

 

I did the edge of the planks, both sides before they was glued on.

 

You use the side of the felt tip (not the tip of the pen) and just go over the edges of the plank till you are happy with the colour.

 

Just Google ZIG PENS.

Make sure you purchase the one with a hard or felt tip, don't purchase a brush tip one.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

Jo.

 

742856896_ZIGPENSMEDIUM.JPG.bc22a58afadab3f2d7a99955cbcb422f.JPG

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Hello all.

 

Just a wee update, I have sanded the deck down now and I have to say it was hard going, yes the blood came out of my finger tips again but hey I am not going to complain am I, no one told me I was going 10 rounds with some sandpaper, the judges said it was an unanimous decision, the sandpaper WON.

 

After recovering from the decision (that I thought was a bit bias) I coated the deck with some Danish oil, I will give it another two coats.

 

Jo.

 

784086273_ILLEUDO41_0002.thumb.jpg.f96413e965ed3733cef588497f4ecede.jpg1267676341_ILLEUDO41_0005.thumb.jpg.374718876f4c37719a78994a644044dc.jpg1041603062_ILLEUDO41_0007.thumb.jpg.e534f964fd22ccf9a5eb4d5aa87a0757.jpg

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