Bluenose by Retired guy - Model Shipways - scale 1:64

[KeithAug]

19 hours ago, Retired guy said:

Keith they are very nice, got them from Gesswein Canada but they are an American company

Thank you Richard. I had a good look round the internet but they don't seem to be available over this side of the pond - pity really.

[Retired guy]

2 hours ago, md1400cs said:

First try - May need to re-do my current ship upper deck railing details hmmmm?

seems to work just fine on a harder woods as well - need to go-back-and-forth several times of course

 

FYI: Don't know this site.  https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LATR7300

 

 

 

Thanks Michael wow looks like they work really good do they go by a scale I see 2 x 5  and 1 x 4 or is it what size of wood to go through 

 

2 hours ago, CPDDET said:

I believe I bought my set of Glardon Vallorbe escapement files at Rio Grande, a jeweler supply house. But it may pay to shop around.

 

Dave

 

Thanks Dave will look them up

 

19 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

Thank you Richard. I had a good look round the internet but they don't seem to be available over this side of the pond - pity really.

 

That a shame just wondering if you looked on a German site because they have made in Germany on them 🤔

 

Regards

Richard

[md1400cs]

1 hour ago, Retired guy said:

Thanks Michael wow looks like they work really good do they go by a scale I see 2 x 5  and 1 x 4 or is it what size of wood to go through 

 

 

Thanks Dave will look them up

 

 

That a shame just wondering if you looked on a German site because they have made in Germany on them 🤔

 

Regards

Richard

Wood in mm's 

[JeffK]

On 2/19/2020 at 4:29 PM, Retired guy said:

Hi Jeff thanks for looking in and commenting on my build, what fishing schooner are you building it would be nice to see your progress

It is “American Fishing Schooner by JeffK - Constructo U604...”. There isn’t much to see yet, and, at the rate I’m sorting through what i want to do, probably not much actual physical progress for several weeks.  

What I’m going to try to do will change much of the deck layout. I’m currently sketching (then 3D CAD) for most of the furniture on the deck.  The changes will be done using either a laser cutter, or a CNC wood milling machine.  Our local library has these available for use.  

 

[CPDDET]

Escapement files on sale:

https://www.ottofrei.com/Glardon-Vallorbe-Swiss-Escapement-Files-Set-Of-12-Cut-4-Fine

[Retired guy]

On 2/20/2020 at 2:42 PM, md1400cs said:

Wood in mm's 

Thanks Michael

On 2/20/2020 at 7:06 PM, JeffK said:

It is “American Fishing Schooner by JeffK - Constructo U604...”. There isn’t much to see yet, and, at the rate I’m sorting through what i want to do, probably not much actual physical progress for several weeks.  

What I’m going to try to do will change much of the deck layout. I’m currently sketching (then 3D CAD) for most of the furniture on the deck.  The changes will be done using either a laser cutter, or a CNC wood milling machine.  Our local library has these available for use.  

 

Will watch out for your build Jeff

6 hours ago, CPDDET said:

Escapement files on sale:

https://www.ottofrei.com/Glardon-Vallorbe-Swiss-Escapement-Files-Set-Of-12-Cut-4-Fine

Thanks Dave for the info they look a nice set of Swiss files

 

Regards

Richard

[Retired guy]

Started by making the cabin companionway out of Boxwood using the drawings cannot find a picture of this area on the web ( if someone has one from 1920 I would love to see it  ) started by making the step covering the coaming.

 

 

Then made the sides used a couple of spacers to hold in place.

 

 

Then made the hatch

 

 

 

So at this stage I decided to make the hatch slide open but if this was going to happen I should make the stairs going down into cabin, so removed more of the bulkheads and installed floor and sides then made the stairs.

 

 

 

 

Now made the sides of compaionway to match the stairs

 

 

Adding the grove to allow for the sliding hatch I machined a .020" x .020" deep slot in each side and then made a .020" piece of boxwood same length as bottom of hatch one way and adding .040" wider the other, this is so I can glue to the bottom of hatch.

 

 

And it worked how I envisioned. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not sure if this is the correct way to have the hatch slide, and I don't have any drawings or pictures, so I have used artistic license  

 

Regards

Richard

[The Lazy Saint]

Hi Richard, 

One of the things I find most amazing about your build is how crisp and sharp your woodwork edges and corners are. How do you manage it🤔 they are fantastic. Mine look like they have been chewed by an angry Beaver. Actually, you don't have to tell me how you manage it, l know, your woodworking skills are absolutely superb. Well done you. 

Best wishes as always, 

The Lazy Saint. 

[Retired guy]

On 2/26/2020 at 11:00 PM, The Lazy Saint said:

Hi Richard, 

One of the things I find most amazing about your build is how crisp and sharp your woodwork edges and corners are. How do you manage it🤔 they are fantastic. Mine look like they have been chewed by an angry Beaver. Actually, you don't have to tell me how you manage it, l know, your woodworking skills are absolutely superb. Well done you. 

Best wishes as always, 

The Lazy Saint. 

 

Hi LS thanks again for your post do appreciate it and thanks to all who have added likes, you ask how I get my edges and corners crisp and sharp, I use Jim Byrnes disc sander a lot find it a fantastic machine and for corners use a files all different types and sandpaper on a block with 320 grit, what are you using to have it chewed like an angry beaver 🤔

 

 

 

 

 

Hope this helps

Regards

Richard

 

  

[CPDDET]

Your well defined edges and smooth wood finishes make me think your using something other than basswood.

[CPDDET]

As for getting a crisper / smoother look on basswood. I'm having some luck using a sanding sealer before painting. And using an airbrush, rather than a brush, on this sealed surface provides a decent look. 

 

As the deck housings will require staining, I'm going to experiment with wood conditioner before staining.

[Retired guy]

On 2/28/2020 at 6:34 PM, CPDDET said:

Your well defined edges and smooth wood finishes make me think your using something other than basswood.

 

Yes using Boxwood and cherry I have not used the supplied wood it is to soft but I do say so in each post 👍 

17 hours ago, CPDDET said:

As for getting a crisper / smoother look on basswood. I'm having some luck using a sanding sealer before painting. And using an airbrush, rather than a brush, on this sealed surface provides a decent look. 

 

As the deck housings will require staining, I'm going to experiment with wood conditioner before staining.

 

I will be seeing how boxwood will go when I add some stain

 

Regards

Richard

[CPDDET]

I'll be watching closely as my hope is to eventually move to scratch building with better wood. 

 

Thanks for sharing your work!

[CPDDET]

I've seen some very nice finishes using Watco Danish Oil. But the color choices are limited compared to traditional oil stains.

[Retired guy]

Made some very small hinges using .5mm O.D x .3mm I.D brass tube then soldering a strip of .003" thk brass to it, then cut off excess tube and filed off excess solder then did the same as the hinges I made for bands. 

 

 

 

 

 

Came out not the best but these where very fiddly, marked where they were going on the companionway and CA glued, at this time did make the doors out of Boxwood then machined a rectangle grove in each one.

 

 

 

 

Laid out and mounted the other part of hinge to doors, CA glued them and then cut four pieces off .010" brass wire (have to try and find some .013" wire) and mounted doors to the companionway using the .010" wire

 

 

 

Next was to make the compass housing, again used Boxwood using dimension on drawing made the front and back then top cut some strips and glued all around, made a bottom glued this to the cabin top and top fit nice and snug so when I get around to making compass I can put it in.

 

 

 

 

 

Still got to make latch for doors

 

Thanks to everyone for likes and comments

 

Regards

Richard

 

[md1400cs]

Richard,

"Came out not the best" really !! 🤔 (as most builders - we're much too critical of our own work)

 Brilliant scaling they look SO realistic - and your two sliding cover grooves are also superbly done.

 

Cheers,

[CPDDET]

You're being too hard on yourself, as most of us are. But it's what drives us to improve our work.

 

Very impressive workmanship!

 

Dave

[CPDDET]

I'm just starting my deck housings, begining with the wheelhouse. Will be stealing some ideas from you, although I'm attempting to do all my work with hand tools. So getting results even close to yours may prove to be difficult.

[Retired guy]

On 3/6/2020 at 5:54 AM, md1400cs said:

Richard,

"Came out not the best" really !! 🤔 (as most builders - we're much too critical of our own work)

 Brilliant scaling they look SO realistic - and your two sliding cover grooves are also superbly done.

 

Cheers,

 

Thanks for your post Michael totally agree with you, they are about as small as I want to go for hinges but did get them to work, the pins will be made again.

 

On 3/6/2020 at 7:40 AM, CPDDET said:

You're being too hard on yourself, as most of us are. But it's what drives us to improve our work.

 

Very impressive workmanship!

 

Dave

 

Thanks Dave do appreciate your comment

 

On 3/6/2020 at 7:44 AM, CPDDET said:

I'm just starting my deck housings, begining with the wheelhouse. Will be stealing some ideas from you, although I'm attempting to do all my work with hand tools. So getting results even close to yours may prove to be difficult.

 

Steal away this is why I am showing how I made my parts, you can make all items with hand tools as I see on this site, but I do like the machines I have, was taught how to use them in the 70's and love the results that come from them

 

Forgot to add did add the wide board along the entire edge P/S this was used for cutting bait while fishing.

 

Regards

Richard

 

[Retired guy]

Carrying on with the cabin I was looking at the drawing to see what smoke stack to use and I noticed it said the bent pipe may have been used when Bluenose was racing, so I look at another book I have bought which is for the Bluenose 11 by LB Jenson (great book) and in it there is a page for the original Bluenose which shows it with a Liverpool Head here is a picture if this is not allowed to be shown please delete so went on the web to see what a Liverpool head looks like.

 

 

 

 

I scale the drawing approx and here is my take on a Liverpool Head, started with smoke pipe and made connection plate to top of cabin

 

 

Then took a piece of tube three sizes bigger and machined four slots in the 0, 90, 180 and 270 deg then cut two small piece to fit inside the part I machined then two more to fit inside the small pieces to get the size all these parts were soldered together.

 

 

 

 

Got the gap I was looking for from the slot to the inside pipe

 

 

Then machined the head and cut two more thin pieces of tube to go on the outside of smoke stack and soldered all parts together

 

 

 

Will paint it sliver

 

 

 

 

Thanks everyone for your likes and again thanks to everyone who has commented.

 

Regards

Richard

 

Edited March 19, 2020 by Retired guy

[KeithAug]

Just catching up Richard. The woodwork continues to look impressive and the metalwork is excellent.

[Retired guy]

7 hours ago, KeithAug said:

Just catching up Richard. The woodwork continues to look impressive and the metalwork is excellent.

Thank you very much Keith I am really enjoying building this great schooner but trying to find more pictures is getting harder.

 

Regards

Richard

[Retired guy]

Wheel house was next, followed the drawings provided also found a picture on the web and in a book I bought showing the same as the drawing provided, date of pictures where of the Bluenose when she was sold  in 1946, again made all parts from Boxwood, pictures are to help with my build if not allowed please remove thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cut the four sides but before putting together machined a .030" ball for the groove should have done two small grooves but did not have a .10" mill, then I made the lid 

 

 

 

 

Made the coaming for the bottom and as the picture rounded the edge on the top, also put the chamfer on the front edges

 

 

 

Cut the slot for the wheel shaft and beveled the edges front and back to the lid, got to make those small hold clips  the groove is a little to close the the coaming but I will leave it as is. 

 

 

Here is a picture of the steering wheel which came with the kit, it didn't look the greatest so looking at the drawing supplied I decided to machine my own, drawing scale was 3/8" = 1'-0" and it gave a nice drawing of the shaft and linkage I thought why not have a go making all parts. found another picture on the web (of Bluenose 11) which gave me another view on how it went together.

 

 

 

 

Started by machining the rim (which in the real world was cast) in the lathe and machine the first face leaving some material so that once I parted off I could turn it around and machine the other side, then it was in the mill so that I could drill the holes for the spokes, drilled the holes bigger than the spoke so I could add tubing two times the size of the spoke, then parted it of in the mill with the table/chuck laying down 

 

 

 

The largest tubes I soldered to the rim

 

 

 

Machined the hub and drilled 8 holes, cut some small tube which will go on the hub, then made a jig so that I could solder all parts together without it moving, picture does not show the small tube by hub

 

 

Did make the shaft using small bolts and tube

 

 

Here it is after soldering needs to be cleaned up

 

 

 

Next up was to make the handles out of boxwood, I took a 1/4" tool steel and ground the shape

 

 

 

On the drawing by the steering house there was a unidentified round object so made that out of apple, made a lid to go on top

 

 

 

 

Thanks a lot for the comments and the likes 

 

Regards

Richard

Edited March 18, 2020 by Retired guy

[jwvolz]

Wheel looks great Richard, really nice work.

[CPDDET]

Just amazed at your machines and your obvious skills in using them. Beautiful work!

[BETAQDAVE]

    While reviewing your log, I noticed a detail shown in these two photos in the bulwark between two stanchions that is unfamiliar to me. 

    It appears to be a horizontal piece of blocking with an oval shaped hole.  Is this a reinforcement of some kind for a mooring hole in the bulwark , and if so, would it have a metal lip similar to a hawse hole? 

    I am building the MS Phantom that shows a pair of similar holes in the bulwarks near the bow and stern opposite a pair of bollards.  My plans don't show a detail of it at all, so I am just assuming that this is the case in ships with open bulwarks.  I can't remember seeing a photo or drawing of this detail anywhere else either.

[Retired guy]

On 3/18/2020 at 4:45 AM, jwvolz said:

Wheel looks great Richard, really nice work.

 

Thank you Joe wheel came out just as I wanted it, kit supplied wheel wasn't going to cut it sorry to say.

 

On 3/18/2020 at 5:24 AM, CPDDET said:

Just amazed at your machines and your obvious skills in using them. Beautiful work!

 

Thanks Dave she is looking more like the beautiful schooner that she is 

On 3/18/2020 at 8:52 AM, BETAQDAVE said:

    While reviewing your log, I noticed a detail shown in these two photos in the bulwark between two stanchions that is unfamiliar to me. 

    It appears to be a horizontal piece of blocking with an oval shaped hole.  Is this a reinforcement of some kind for a mooring hole in the bulwark , and if so, would it have a metal lip similar to a hawse hole? 

    I am building the MS Phantom that shows a pair of similar holes in the bulwarks near the bow and stern opposite a pair of bollards.  My plans don't show a detail of it at all, so I am just assuming that this is the case in ships with open bulwarks.  I can't remember seeing a photo or drawing of this detail anywhere else either.

 

Hi Dave thanks for looking in and your question, if you look at post #83 you will see it is a mooring chock and did have a detail on the drawing to add, regarding if this should have a metal lip I cannot find any info, you will see I saw a lip on a picture and carved them out of boxwood and installed, I am sure these were for rope only and would have been used to then tie to the Quarter Bitts (bollards) but then you see in the picture they did not use the mooring chock. 

 

Here is the detail, still have to add the rings

 

Regards

Richard

 

Edited March 20, 2020 by Retired guy

[Retired guy]

Starting on making the steering linkage system, I pinned and glued a piece of rod to the rudder then drilled a hole through the deck, then cut it down to size as per drawing provided.

 

 

 

 

 

Made a jig so that I could build the linkage off the model, made the same size rod and glued it to the same angle

 

 

Started with the bracket which went on the rudder shaft, machined the collar then machined two half circles 180 deg apart so that I could solder two small tubes for the connection arms

 

 

 

Did not use the first shaft I made because the nuts were to big so threaded some brass with a 1/16"-60 Whit die, threaded both parts but I know one needed to be a left hand thread and I didn't have one.

 

 

 

Then made the top shaft connection bracket, started with a 1" long piece of round brass, then taking another piece of the same size brass machined one of the side connection with the step, filed so that it would fit the round brass, for the other side I drilled a hole and inserted a piece of brass rod then soldered both parts, put it in the lathe and drilled and then taped with the same size 1/16"-60 Whit after that I saw cut to the size as per drawing.

 

 

 

Arms for the lower part were up next used .010" brass sheared to size, drill holes then made a spacer and soldered together then carefully bent them to shape, made the bottom shaft connection same as top except there are two step side pieces and also I did not tap. 

 

 

 

 

Last thing was to make the top link arm using .010" brass, shear to size, drill and filing to shape and the back bracket

 

 

 

So now to put all pieces together

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like to see how parts work and then build them in miniature, it was fun to make next up will be to install onto the rudder shaft.

 

Regards

Richard  

 

 

 

 

[BETAQDAVE]

    Man, now that's what I call going to the extreme to detail the model!  WOW!!!  

[Fright]

Your woodworking and craftsmanship is outstanding on this schooner. She looks beautiful!