HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Jeff 1/48

[Zarkon]

Thank you Chuck,  I definitely placed sills 1 and 5 too low. I will have to take them off and redo them.  I did use the spacers but since the windows are too low, I will just need to start over with 1 and 5.  I will need to check 2 and 4 as well after I take 1 and 5 off.

 

Thanks for your help Chuck!  Luckily, you provided another set of sill for just such an occasion.  I wouldn't be surprised if this will be the first of many boo boos I make! Haha!

 

Jeff

[Zarkon]

I was able to remove the outermost sills, but then realized the sills 2 and 4 were too low as well.  Lastly, came to the realization that they all were a little too low and not positioned correctly. So I took them all out.

 

After taking them out, I put in the spacers again and realized I over sanded the stern pieces (especially where the windows will be).  If I keep the stern section pieces in, then the windows will look warped and jagged on the left and right sides of the window sills.

 

Ugh! What a disaster!  I might have to dissolve the glue on the stern pieces and replace them.  Thats 2 weeks of work that I will have to redo.  If anyone has ideas on how I might fix this, I would be very grateful.

 

Jeff

 

[Chuck]

Take the two weeks....that is your answer.  No quick fix here.   Those pieces need to be positioned correctly.  You need to place the filler spacers in and keep them in as guides while you position the sills and top pieces.   

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Jeff

i placed the center filler to high but did not wanted to remove it so I added a small peace uf wood at the bottom and filed down the top.

You could spot the change here.

I used diamond cover files a a small chisel closer tithe edges to keep the angles sharp

hope this helps.

G 

[Zarkon]

G, that's a great idea! After I replace the stern frames,  I will keep this in mind when I put the sills on again.

 

Your model looks fantastic!

 

Jeff

[Zarkon]

So I had to remove the stern frames ST-A and ST-B since all four of them were unusable after removing the window sill pieces.  Luckily, the outer stern pieces look alright.   So I haven't removed them for now.

 

Removing these frame pieces was much easier than I thought.   I took some rubbing alcohol and applied it using a straw to the joins to help disolve the glue.  I then waited and was able to pry them off with Hobbie knife without widening the slots.

 

I have to give a huge thank you to Chuck, who was able to send me a replacement set of laser cut stern frames!  This was very generous of him and recieving them honestly made my week a lot better!

 

I was able to glue on the new replacement stern frames and will be taking my sweet time making sure I place the sills in the correct spots.

 

Here is a pic of where I am now.

 

 

I will not be gluing anything until I am happy with the position of all the top window sill pieces.

 

If anything seems off, please let me know so I can correct it!

 

Jeff

[Trussben]

This is the type of thing I do using the plans and measurements from them to make sure those stern frames are in the correct place, you can do this with any part of the build to check your work accuracy, dimensions are in mm.

 

ben

[Rustyj]

Great information Ben. Thanks 

[Zarkon]

Thanks Ben!

 

I will definitely be using this for the rest of the build!  Thank you for sharing!

 

Thanks again to Chuck for mailing me one set of stern frames. That was a life saver!

 

I got them in position and here is how it looks:

 

 

I will be doing some tweeking. But I think this placement is better than what it was before.

 

I still need to finish gluing and sanding down the stern, but that will be saved for later this week.   If anyone has comments on their layout, please feel free to let me know!

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Jeff

[Chuck]

That looks so much better.  So well worth the effort.   Well done.

[Zarkon]

Thanks Chuck!

 

I am happy with the result! 

 

I finished the quarter gallery framing and sanded the outside smooth with the hull.

 

I did have an uh-oh moment because one of the tops of bulckhead 28 was cracked near the gun port frame.  I was actually not surprised because the top of frame 28 was super warped.   So when I tried to cut off the part of bulkhead 28, this happened.

 

I was actually glad it did that because that meant I could straighten up that part of the bulkhead using an extra bit of stop included with the chapter 1 package like so 

 

Not only is it straighter, but it released a lot of tension between the top of the bulkhead 28 and the small top of the gun port sill. (The top of the bulkhead was warped in 2 dimensions)

 

This is a pic with that side completed

 

 

And the other side

 

When placing those frame pieces,l made sure that they laid down on the frames without pushing on them.  It was mentioned to be careful not to change the stern frame angle.

 

The last things to do for chapter 1 are to add the strip pieces to the tops of the  quarter gallery  framing, adding the hance pieces, and the bollard timbers!

 

I am excited that I am close to completing chapter one!  My new table saw for milling the strips for chapter 2 arrives tomorrow and so I am super excited about that!

 

Thanks all!

 

Jeff

[Chuck]

Very nice!!!  You will be catching up to me soon!!!

[Zarkon]

Thanks everyone for the likes!!

 

Haha! It will take me quite a while to catch up to you Chuck!

 

I have finished adding the strips of wood above the quarter deck along with the hance and forward hance pieces.

Now onto the bollard timbers!  

 

It says to reduce the stem and bulwarks inboard so they are all 5/32".  I marked what needed to be removed.  Is this correct?

 

I just shaded the inboard sections that need to be removed to thin it down to 5/32".  What is the best way to do this? Put some adhesive sandpaper on some scratch wood strips and sand down manually? 

 

I'm going to read and re-read how to make the bollard timbers before starting that.

 

Lastly,

 

I received my new Byrnes table saw!

 

I definitely won't be keeping it up here. I will move it somewhere else when I start using it.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but to mill the wood I nead, I should get some wood sheets slightly thicker than what I need the strips to be.  Then use a plainer to make the sheet the correct height.  Then rip the strips from that?  I will need to also get a plainer then!

[Chuck]

Not really....you should be able to buy sheets the correct width already.   If you buy an 1/8" thick sheet then it should be 1/8" thick.   Although some sizes may not be readily available.  If you cant find 5/32" sheets then yes you will have to thickness down from 3/16" thick.   

 

Chuck

[Zarkon]

Thanks everyone for the likes!

 

I ordered some sheets with the correct width so I hope to receive them soon.

 

Small update.  Been working on sanding down the stem and bulwarks near the bow to thin it down to allow the bollard timbers to fit correctly.  Here is a pic of my first attempt of making a bollard timber.

 

 

The top piece, the 1/64" strip, needs to be sanded down but I will do that tomorrow.   I also beveled the outer and inner sides.

 

Its a little hard to capture in a picture but I tried to match the curve that the planks will follow.

 

I will try to start working on the matching pair tomorrow.

 

Thanks!

 

Jeff

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Jeff:

That bollard timber looks good.

Measure the thickness of BS-1 to know how much you need to remove from the top part of BF-3.  That will correct the problem.

Hope this helps.

G  

[Zarkon]

Thanks G for the advice!

 

Also, thanks to everyone for your likes!

 

I was able to complete the other bollard timber and the spacer between.

 

 

Making the bollard timbers was actually one of the most fun parts of the build so far!

 

Other than some small adjustments, I have finished chapter one!

 

Wow what a journey. I have learned quite a lot from this chapter.  It has taken me 5 months to get this far.  I have really enjoyed the build so far and will continue that enthusiasm into Chapter 2.

 

 

Sorry for the bad lighting.  I do not have too much room!

 

My cherry wood sheets were shipped a few days ago.  So hopefully I will receive them this week and start making the strips needed for the hull planking.   It will be my first time doing this.  So I will be nervous and excited at the same time haha!

 

I'm actually going to read through chapter 2 a few times before starting!

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Jeff

 

[Rustyj]

Congrats on completing chapter 1. Looking really good!

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Looks great Jeff

I see you got the micrometer with your saw.  I have the exact one.  Set it to 5 (painted a dot for reference because it takes mor than 3 turns per plank) see bellow

then turn up tree full turns (3 times the dot) and the add two more stops until 15 (one full turn has stops at 5,10,15 and 20).  This gave me the required thickness plus a little more to account for sanding.  I used the recommended 3” diameter saw blade from previous posts and I got really good results.

I ripped 1 plank from each billet (10 billets = 10 planks) and re-adjusted a second time (3 full turns up on 15, and two stops more to stop 5). I rip a second plank from each billet again (10 more planks).  And so on. This way you only need to adjust the micrometer between plank rips.  I got 37 planks per billet; so I only did 37 adjustments in the micrometer to rip all my billets into 3/64 thick planks for a total of 370 planks.  When you are near 0 in the micrometer, reset it to 5 again after the last rip (don’t move the fence) readjust the position to touch the fence. Then start again from the beginning (above).

hope this makes sense,

G 

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Forgot to add, may saw blade is 0.036 inch thick.  If you use a wider blade you will need to adjust up.

G

[Zarkon]

Thanks G!!

 

I am going to re read your advice as I start to make the strips!

 

I have planked the lower counter and added the support strip to help with the lower planking.

 

 

I still need to do a little sanding on it.

 

I received my wood sheets!  They look very nice but there is one problem.  I asked for them to make some 7/32" but they are all 1/4" or slightly thicker.  It wouldn't be a problem if I had a planer, but I do not.  So I am not quite sure of what to do.

 

I also need to take a little break from the ship.   Only because my wife and I need to decide where to put the table saw.  I also will need to get a sturdy table and a small shop vac to connect to the table saw.  This might take a few weeks or longer to do since we will need to clean some rooms out in our basement and need to save up for the table and shop vac.

 

Thanks everyone foe the likes!

 

Jeff

[Trussben]

Run them through the saw to get the thickness you want, then lay them flat and run them through again for the width you want. Just means two jobs instead of one - if they come the right thickness to start with you only have one operation to perform.

 

ben

[Zarkon]

Thanks everyone for the likes and tips!

 

I started getting used to my new table saw.  Since I have not used a table saw before,  it has taken me about 3 weeks, and very helpful tips and advice from G, Ben, and Chuck.

 

Like Ben said, I had to reduce the height of the sheets by a small amount.  I had to create some jigs to support the sheet as it goes through the saw.

 

Making the first strips was tough for me.  I have about 10 or so unusable strips.  But I learned more and more as I went on. I had chipped, burnt, too wide, not wide enough.. you name it! Advice from G, Ben, and Chuck really helped.

 

But, being safe, after 3 weeks of trial and error, I finally was able to make the first 3 usable strips!!!!  I would have made more, but I didn't have enough time.  I know it might sound like a small thing, but it is a big deal for me!

 

So, a few days later, I placed the the first part of the first plank on the hull.  I really didn't understand what the 'S' shape of the plank meant at the bow until I placed this first plank on.  I then finally  saw it.

 

Here is a small 2 pics of it.  I hope it looks alright! I am proud of it because I made that strip,  and I realized how much work went into getting this far.

 

 

Its really hard to see the S curve at the bow, but I know its there cause I had to bend it!

 

Thanks everyone for your help and support!

 

I hope to plank more this week.

 

Jeff

[Zarkon]

Thanks everyone for the likes!

 

Its been a little while, but I have been busy on the ship.  I am starting to get used to using the table saw as both a saw and a planer.  The first few times trying to get usable 7/32" strips yielded 4-5 strips since I have to plane the 1/4" sheets down first.  But slowly as I was getting more comfortable; this week, I was able to produce 15 strips at one time!  That really made me feel I'm starting to get used to the table saw.  I have enough 7/32" strips to finish the first layer of the wales and black strakes.

 

I am currently working on the black strake.

 

 

Sorry for the bad lighting. I need to get more light in my room.

 

Making the 1/4" strikes will be MUCH easier because I won't have to plane them before making the strips.  So I am excited about that.

 

Thanks!!!

 

Jeff

[Chuck]

Looking very good.  You may need a few 5/16” strips as well.  You might want to buy some 1/16” thick sheets and thickness that to 3/64” before you rip strips from it.  It will be easier to mill 5/16” strips from a thin sheets rather than a thick one.

[Zarkon]

Thanks everyone for the likes!

 

That makes a lot of sense Chuck.  I will order some 1/16" sheets later this week.

 

I noticed the sheer is too steep on  the port side stern. Way too steep.  And this would cause issues down the road.  The starboard side is good.  I then realized I didn't follow my guide lines correctly on the port side.  So I decided to remove the wale planks that were too steep.

 

 

I was able to clean it up quite a bit. I know the butt ends aren't correct, but this is the first planking of the wales, so it will be covered up anyway. I was able to keep my black strake intact so lucky me! I didn't have to replace that!

 

 

I'm not upset because I need to make sure the sheer is correct before continuing. It would be horrible to realize this later after planking up the the hull.

 

I will start to replace those strips tomorrow!

 

Thanks!

 

Jeff

[barkeater]

Good move to correct something you are not happy with early rather than waiting. Issues only compound themselves if left unresolved.

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Jeff:

Add the last of the 5 strikes in the other side you you could compare both sides.

Best,

G 

[Zarkon]

7 hours ago, Guillermo Eduardo Madico said:

Add the last of the 5 strikes in the other side you you could compare both sides.

Good idea.  I fitted the other side's black streak for reference and I'm making the adjustments now.  The position and sheer will be much more correct.  Having this correct is more important than getting the tightest seems for this layer since these wale planks will be planked over and painted anyway.

 

Thanks!

 

Jeff

[Zarkon]

I was able replace the strips I removed.  I had to remove a little more than the last pictures I posted to fix how the bottom wale streak flows down to the stern.

 

 

I think it turned out better than I thought!

 

Compared to the other side, it is off by 1mm.  It was off by almost 7/32".  So I feel that's much better.  The sheer going down the hull to the stern looks a lot better to me as well .

 

 

Thanks!

 

Jeff