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FINISHED - Delahaye 135 - 1:24 Heller


CDW

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Coming along nicely, Craig.  Is that paint an acrylic or lacquer?

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Thank you, sir. Looks like a good color for some stainless passenger cars, too.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Take a look at the 2nd photo in my previous post. After I looked at the photo, I noticed something I had not noticed when I sprayed the model. There are a few small specks of something that go unnoticed until closer examination of the model. This is where I let the paint run out in my airbrush cup which caused it to spit. With metallic paints like the silver I am using here, these specks become very noticeable, particularly after a clear coat goes on top.

I know better than to let my paint cup run dry like that, as it's not the first time that's happened to me. But it's worth noting to my friends who may not have experienced this phenomenon before. Always keep your airbrush paint cup filled particularly when spraying metallic paints. 

At this point I will give it a second coat to try and hide the specks.

 

Publication1.thumb.jpg.bfc5496b9a763085dfd48199be8535eb.jpg

Edited by CDW
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Glad to see you back CDW!  Love the subject you're working on - cars from that period are amongst my favorite.  Sad looking out into the road and seeing cars completely stripped of all that cool style from back then.

 

Nice score on the display cabinet - that looks absolutely perfect!  I've been thinking about what I could get or build to store my upcoming models (assuming I get around to building them) and that one you showed couldn't be better.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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31 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Sad looking out into the road and seeing cars completely stripped of all that cool style from back then.

Amen to that, cars had bags of character and charm back then. 

Excellent work as always Craig !

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25

Providence whaleboat- 1:25     HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished    Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

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17 minutes ago, CDW said:

.....plus got a lot of projects done around the house.

So, in essence, you didn't stop modeling, you just chose a different scale....

 

Nice work by the way..... gonna be sharp when you polish that body......

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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23 minutes ago, CDW said:

Thanks guys. You know the old saying, absence makes the heart grow fonder. Sometimes it helps to step away from a hobby for a period of time and change up a routine. I used my swimming pool more this past summer than I've ever used it before, plus got a lot of projects done around the house. 

 

We have a  Pool, not an intentional one  - just lots of rain on the patio.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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That is looking Smart  and really tidy paintwork.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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3 hours ago, CDW said:

Mockup

Now that is very sharp!!!!

 

Another beautiful lady getting ready for an evening on the boulevard!!!!

 

Well done sir....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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that looks really snazzy  ;)    great job on the paint!   touching back on the battery arrangement.......I don't think twelve volt batteries were around then,  neither was the ability to regulate amperage as with later cars.  generators were the method for recharging the battery.......the plus here was that the battery could be removed once the engine was started.........can't really do that with an alternator.   early cars were also positive grounded systems.  later systems changed over to the negative ground systems.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Wow, that looks really amazing, nice paint job!

Edited by Landlubber Mike

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Thanks gentlemen. I'm struggling just a bit right now with a couple of pieces that go between the frame and the hood, parts numbers 5 and 6 on the instruction sheet. These parts make a fit between the hood, the grill, and the front fenders. The instructions are unclear on exactly how they fit, and they do not fit without some modifications and tweaking of the several parts to which they attach. The most critical part of it is to make sure the hood and grill fit properly once the parts are cemented in place. I've already glued and removed them for adjustments several times now. Maybe the third time will be a charm. We'll see in a bit.

 

1751393591_hoodparts.thumb.jpg.e8a6e5e5ba3fce9eb7d05c8c160594d7.jpg

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Craig,

 

I believe that those are the lower hood side panels, I would approach it by cementing them to the lower edge of the hood sides then adjusting them to fit the frame.... Front and rear location would be set by the streamlined grille which they abut in the front....

 

I would temporarily affix the grill to the hood using tape, using tube cement spot glue the panel parts to the hood sides, then test fit to the frame.....

 

All you would have to adjust, if needed would be the side heights to make sure the hood is level, again if needed....

 

Once fitted, remove the grille.... if they are part of the hood, permanently glue them to the hood, if they are part of the frame/body, permanently glue them to the frame then separate the hood....

 

From what I see, that would be my approach... yes the instructions are a bit less than completely clear....

 

Check your reference photos....

 

EG

 

Edit:

 

I found a reference.... I've got two shots...

 

36-delahaye-135-comp_dv-19-q_006-800.jpg.f327d237a2d1bbea6752a4cf1411a77c.jpg

You see the hood, grille and the lower panel, that sets the point of mating.... (all that left is to determine if they are body parts or hood parts....

 

Next pic...

 

36-delahaye-136-comp-dv-19-q-e01-800.jpg.b73904539371d0324abaabc049cfc37f.jpg

The lower body panel of the pic is the part your looking at, so they are body panels and need to be glued to the frame.... Knowing this, I would change my approach and use tape for all temp attachments and use the hood and grille as the locator for these parts, removing the grille before permanently gluing them to the frame.....

 

I hope this helps...

 

EG

Edited by Egilman

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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I think that is the safest approach brother....

 

She is going to be a beauty....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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Hood pieces and the lower hood pieces with the grill are all cemented together. Now I have to find a reliable way to attach the front fenders to the frame so the wheel wells line up properly. Unfortunately, the kit designers were asleep for this part of the kit as there is really nothing to make that happen except for doing it yourself with a method of your own choosing.

These photos are just a dry run and obviously not aligned.

 

IMG_0980.thumb.jpg.954d715afa27ab27d537970e2d1b7ca9.jpgIMG_0981.thumb.jpg.05e794cb844112c17cb042740f85e7b9.jpg

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The bodywork looks real sharp! Great job so far Craig 

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25

Providence whaleboat- 1:25     HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished    Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

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Wow! nice work.....

 

That fender and hood assembly is going to be a nightmare, doesn't appear to me to be any clear mounting points except the fender points on the body, the front fender seem to just float with no clear connection point.... (according to the instructions)

 

So my suggestion would be to follow the cowl/hood line, they have to match as they set the body lines-hood position, the rear fender points set the fender location, and devising a place/way to securely connect the front grille... A nightmare in reality....

 

An issue would be the tips of the fenders molded to the body, that joint has to be clean, almost perfect, and will still be the weak point.....

I would make sure their mating surfaces are square and clean on both the body and fender.... the two bumper mount holes in the fender part should line up with the ends of the frame rails if it is accurate....

This will locate the part vertically on the front end... with the bumper supports going thru should be a good locator for the fenders... But checking that the hood lines up with the cowl is where any inaccuracies will show....

 

A beautiful kit,  a real challenge in assembly....

 

I found a build log from 2015 that shows this problem on this exact kit..... (don't know if it is permissible to post such here, if it isn't please delete it)

https://skidsplace.forumotion.com/t2468-1935-delahaye-135-heller-1-24

 

Hope it helps Craig... 

 

EG

Edited by Egilman

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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Egilman

That was a great find on the Delahaye build thread. The poor guy went through the same thing I am going through right now with the front fenders.

I'm going to take the time to read through the whole thread, but I cheated ahead to see what he did with the fenders. Too bad the designers didn't spend the time to work this out. 

I do not recommend this kit for the casual modeler. It will give you a headache. 

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