HMS Hood by Old Collingwood - Flyhawk - 1/700 - PLASTIC - After her explosion.

[CDW]

Merry Christmas OC

[Old Collingwood]

19 minutes ago, CDW said:

Merry Christmas OC

Thank you mate,   same to you and the family.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,  not  and update  as Im pigging out watching tv with the Admiral,  but I thought I would show you the lovely supprise  prezzy my brother  go me for xmas  as a thank  you for my help.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Nice one, OC.

[Old Collingwood]

6 minutes ago, Canute said:

Nice one, OC.

Thanks Ken,  hope all is going well with you.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   hope everyone's  holidays are going well   - so I decided that one days  tv and couch  was enough  so I did a wee bit more  on Hood,  there was some more  ammo lockers and vents to be added  including some rather nice resin  vents, they will  receive a few coats of paint  next.

 

OC.

[RogerF]

Really excellent work OC.

It's a reminder of just how much detail there is in this kit and we need to remember that the pictures are 8 to 10 times bigger than in real life.

Amazing.

How do you intend painting the resin parts now they're fitted on the wood deck? By hand?

[Old Collingwood]

23 minutes ago, RogerF said:

Really excellent work OC.

It's a reminder of just how much detail there is in this kit and we need to remember that the pictures are 8 to 10 times bigger than in real life.

Amazing.

How do you intend painting the resin parts now they're fitted on the wood deck? By hand?

Thank you for the very nice comments   -  yep  I will get out my tiny brushes  to  paint  the small details, will probably do the same with the PE railings that still need to go on, as I can not airbrush them when on  and think the  paint will  be  dameged  from the handling  with tweezers  etc.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,  this evening was  taken up with  mini brush painting  of the boat deck  details I added  yesterday.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

4 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Evening all,  this evening was  taken up with  mini brush painting  of the boat deck  details I added  yesterday

Very neat painting OC. Its starting to look busy. Its going to be great.

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

11 minutes ago, king derelict said:

Very neat painting OC. Its starting to look busy. Its going to be great.

Alan

Thank you kindly Alan   - still have the rails to go on  that level  - they will be primed  then  painted  (again both layers by brush)

 

OC.

[king derelict]

On 12/25/2021 at 3:53 PM, Old Collingwood said:

Evening all,  not  and update  as Im pigging out watching tv with the Admiral,  but I thought I would show you the lovely supprise  prezzy my brother  go me for xmas  as a thank  you for my help.

Thats a very thoughtful gift OC. It should make a beautiful model. It will be interesting to see how much of the bonus stuff is really necessary. I got a new salt shaker😄

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

8 minutes ago, king derelict said:

Thats a very thoughtful gift OC. It should make a beautiful model. It will be interesting to see how much of the bonus stuff is really necessary. I got a new salt shaker😄

Alan

Thank  you Alan,  I see  she was  similar to the model you built of HMS Penelope.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   a bit more done this  eve  -  Two tiny  Triple  platforms  made from PE  and resin, then the kit Triple units  fitted,  I  dry fitted  a few of the assemblies  to check how they fit.

 

OC.

[Landlubber Mike]

Looks great OC.  Really coming together nicely with all those details.

[Old Collingwood]

4 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Looks great OC.  Really coming together nicely with all those details.

Thanks Mike.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Fighting an internal battle with myself  -  prime / paint / flat top coat the PE  frets,   or  un treat  attach  and prime / paint  by brush?    my worry is that handling the  rails on  the top  boat deck sections  (some need  bends)  after cutting then away  will lead to peeling away  / scuffing  etc from holding them while I twist them to shape and glue them in place.

Any ideas folks?

 

OC.

[RogerF]

6 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Fighting an internal battle with myself  -  prime / paint / flat top coat the PE  frets,   or  un treat  attach  and prime / paint  by brush?    my worry is that handling the  rails on  the top  boat deck sections  (some need  bends)  after cutting then away  will lead to peeling away  / scuffing  etc from holding them while I twist them to shape and glue them in place.

Any ideas folks?

 

OC.

For what it's worth, OC, I intend painting as much of the railings and stairways etc. with the airbrush as possible before bending and fitting. Which is what I did with the PE railings on my 1/144 U-Boat which had difficult compound bends.  I then touched up any areas where the paint had peeled off (it wasn't nearly as much as I'd anticipated) with a small paint brush. It also gave me 'random' areas of railing that I could weather, as rust or oily marking to cover the brass that had 'grinned through'. Looking at the main railings of Hood, they seem to be predominantly straight but those needing bending should be ok because the PE is so darn thin. I would suggest wrapping ordinary painter's masking tape around the tips of the tweezers you use to bend so there is some cushioning of the 'grip' you need when bending.

 

 

It's also a good idea to roughen the surface of the PE with sandpaper before painting to provide a good key for the primer. Applying several very thin coats of primer and top coat usually gives more strength to the layers of paint than if the paint is applied in one thicker coat that covers at the first 'pass' with the airbrush.

Hope this helps

[mikegr]

8 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Fighting an internal battle with myself  -  prime / paint / flat top coat the PE  frets,   or  un treat  attach  and prime / paint  by brush?    my worry is that handling the  rails on  the top  boat deck sections  (some need  bends)  after cutting then away  will lead to peeling away  / scuffing  etc from holding them while I twist them to shape and glue them in place.

Any ideas folks?

 

OC.

I have sold this problem by using high quality  autobody epoxy primer. But I use it on spray and even it has flow regulator needs careful handling and proper spraying distance as it may flood the tiny parts. Also it may cover the parts numbers on sprues.

[Old Collingwood]

Thank you kindly  @RogerF @mikegr    I will have to have a think, I think the PE  might be too delicate and thin to sand, another option would be  hand paint just the rails I need to add  for the boat deck, as the  Vallejo Surface Primer  is so good at going on even with a brush  - its shrinks down when it dries, and the AP507A  is  the Lifecolour  range and thin for airbrush work, then the top coat is very good.

 

OC.

[mikegr]

47 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thank you kindly  @RogerF @mikegr    I will have to have a think, I think the PE  might be too delicate and thin to sand, another option would be  hand paint just the rails I need to add  for the boat deck, as the  Vallejo Surface Primer  is so good at going on even with a brush  - its shrinks down when it dries, and the AP507A  is  the Lifecolour  range and thin for airbrush work, then the top coat is very good.

 

OC.

Traditional Humbrol enamel (01)has worked fine for me. I used it with brush only, no thinner. I have no experience with airbrush

Edited December 29, 2021 by mikegr

[Landlubber Mike]

For what it's worth, for most things, I attach the parts unpainted and then paint when I have the assembly completed.  First use primer (Mr. Surfacer) and then paint - Tamiya, Mr. Color, Vallejo, etc.

 

For parts I'm going to include at the very end after most of the model is already assembled (e.g., the railings where there is a linoleum or wood deck), I'll prime and paint them while on the fret, attach them, then hand paint to touch up.  It's fairly easy to do touch ups by brush, and I find there isn't too much to touch up.  Once attached, I'll spray a clear coat over the entire model.

[Old Collingwood]

4 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

For what it's worth, for most things, I attach the parts unpainted and then paint when I have the assembly completed.  First use primer (Mr. Surfacer) and then paint - Tamiya, Mr. Color, Vallejo, etc.

 

For parts I'm going to include at the very end after most of the model is already assembled (e.g., the railings where there is a linoleum or wood deck), I'll prime and paint them while on the fret, attach them, then hand paint to touch up.  It's fairly easy to do touch ups by brush, and I find there isn't too much to touch up.  Once attached, I'll spray a clear coat over the entire model.

Thanks Mike.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   bit more progress  (not sure you can call it that)  I decided to have a go  at priming my pieces of railing  I wanted to use  -  so I applied it with my brush, I put a few light coats on  drying between, anyway  I noticed the whole  fret had stuck to my mat - gently trying to free it  - Yep  it broke most of the rails  with only a few intact (bent but usable)   so  I went a head a cut them away  but most of the paint had stuck to the mat and not the rails, so I decided to scrape off the worst  back to metal  and try to fit Two sections  small  with a centre bend, they went down kind of Ok,   then I tried Two slightly longer ssections  (not massive long)  but how ever many times I tried to fit them  - no good.

I will be honest and say at this scale the railings are beyond me  and I do not have the full set now anyway  - so I am  going to build her  minus the railings.

 

OC.

[CDW]

An airbrush requires lots of practice to become proficient with it. Lots and lots of practice. This practice includes varying dilutions of paint to thinner ratios, air pressure, and distance from the tip of the airbrush to the thing being painted. An airbrush such as the one you own is meant to be a very precise way of applying paint. Once it's been mastered, applying very thin layers of paint precisely where it's needed will be a breeze. But there is a learning curve that only comes with time and practice. Painting a line not much wider than a pencil line will be possible with the equipment you own. 

Another area of expertise that requires practice is finding various ways of masking off the areas where you don't want paint from errant airbrush use. Lots of times this can be done by simply using a stiff sheet of paper to shield the areas to be protected. it doesn't always require masking tape.

All that being said, the most desirable way to paint the photo etch railings (in my opinion) is to paint them after they have been attached in place. This is not always possible, but many times it can be done quite readily. When painting them before assembly, doing it with the airbrush while attached to the photo etch fret is the next best option. Yes, you may get some cracking and peeling of the paint when you bend the rails later on, but it's a breeze to touch up those places with a brush after the fact.

You're working at a scale that makes your debut into airbrushing much more challenging. Don't get discouraged, just make it a habit to practice a bit with your airbrush every chance you get, and don't practice on your best models 🙂. Practice on paper or old models. I've seen Flory use the same model to practice on for years. He calls the model, "Buster". 😄  

[Old Collingwood]

14 minutes ago, CDW said:

An airbrush requires lots of practice to become proficient with it. Lots and lots of practice. This practice includes varying dilutions of paint to thinner ratios, air pressure, and distance from the tip of the airbrush to the thing being painted. An airbrush such as the one you own is meant to be a very precise way of applying paint. Once it's been mastered, applying very thin layers of paint precisely where it's needed will be a breeze. But there is a learning curve that only comes with time and practice. Painting a line not much wider than a pencil line will be possible with the equipment you own. 

Another area of expertise that requires practice is finding various ways of masking off the areas where you don't want paint from errant airbrush use. Lots of times this can be done by simply using a stiff sheet of paper to shield the areas to be protected. it doesn't always require masking tape.

All that being said, the most desirable way to paint the photo etch railings (in my opinion) is to paint them after they have been attached in place. This is not always possible, but many times it can be done quite readily. When painting them before assembly, doing it with the airbrush while attached to the photo etch fret is the next best option. Yes, you may get some cracking and peeling of the paint when you bend the rails later on, but it's a breeze to touch up those places with a brush after the fact.

You're working at a scale that makes your debut into airbrushing much more challenging. Don't get discouraged, just make it a habit to practice a bit with your airbrush every chance you get, and don't practice on your best models 🙂. Practice on paper or old models. I've seen Flory use the same model to practice on for years. He calls the model, "Buster". 😄  

Thank you  kindly mate, if i'm  honest I was avoiding  getting the airbrush out as I have to  clear my table  and get the spray booth box down from upstairs  and try not to get acrylic paint fumes  flying about in the living room  - thats why I thought it would be easier to just brush paint the primer onto the  PE Fret  - but it turned out a  big  mistake.

I tried  Two methods for attaching the PE  I tried was first  using  my Gorilla  Super glue  - but its too thick  even dipping the bottom edge  into it gently while holding the rail with the tip of my tweezers, or even trying using Gorilla  PVA  by using some thin wire to lay a  narrow  line of PVA  and placing the rail into it  - both  just didn't want to play ball, mind you keeping my hand steady was a problem  as the PE is so fine and even the slightest of movement and the rail in knocked off before it can set.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

Railings scare me OC, but I think I'm improving. Craig, @CDW is my mentor and his tips have helped a lot. The two biggest improvements for me were.

- Working with short sections of railings, even for the straight sections. Getting the sections to join up on the model has been relatively easy once the previous section has dried.

- Using Gators Grip glue which I think is a PVA type instead of CA glue. It gives time to adjust and it's easier to clean up. I let it sit for a minute to tack up before placing the section.

 

The two items are kind of related. The shorter sections are easier for the glue to hold on place straight away. When I tried to install the railings in the lengths supplied I found it hard to place accurately along its length and then it would gracefully fold over at the deck edge because the glue couldn't hold it.

 

So far I've been airbrush painting the railings and touching the up after installation. At 1/700 they are a challenge to me. If you get heavy handed with the paint or glue its easy to fill in the spaces between railings. Fragile things indeet.

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

44 minutes ago, king derelict said:

Railings scare me OC, but I think I'm improving. Craig, @CDW is my mentor and his tips have helped a lot. The two biggest improvements for me were.

- Working with short sections of railings, even for the straight sections. Getting the sections to join up on the model has been relatively easy once the previous section has dried.

- Using Gators Grip glue which I think is a PVA type instead of CA glue. It gives time to adjust and it's easier to clean up. I let it sit for a minute to tack up before placing the section.

 

The two items are kind of related. The shorter sections are easier for the glue to hold on place straight away. When I tried to install the railings in the lengths supplied I found it hard to place accurately along its length and then it would gracefully fold over at the deck edge because the glue couldn't hold it.

 

So far I've been airbrush painting the railings and touching the up after installation. At 1/700 they are a challenge to me. If you get heavy handed with the paint or glue its easy to fill in the spaces between railings. Fragile things indeet.

Alan

Thanks  Alan,  I found myself getting frustrated and annoyed   as I was  finding it hard to pick the railing sections up  without my tweezers crushing them, and to get the right hold of them I had to try to  transfer the rail onto my finger  but they kept falling away, I was really getting frustrated with it  and I marred some of the paintwork a bit where the rail slipped down the side of the superstructure  and got some CA glue on it, I had to wait till it was dry then  carefully sand it  - kind of like getting a good paint job done then wrecking it trying to add the railings.

 

Give me my figures anyday.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Wonder if anyone can 3D print these railings  to match the PE ones?

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Just brought a jar of  this Acrylic Glue  for PE, it will be here next week,    thought I could give it a try  as Gaitor's Glue is no longer made as the owner had given up.

 

OC.

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