HMS Hood by Old Collingwood - Flyhawk - 1/700 - PLASTIC - After her explosion.

[Old Collingwood]

11 minutes ago, king derelict said:

Looks very nice, tidy work

Alan

Thank you kindly  Alan,   that decking was a real pitta though   - as they are.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Turned out well, OC.  Nice and easy does it. 😁

[mtaylor]

Very neat and tidy and infinitely small, OC.

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, Canute said:

Turned out well, OC.  Nice and easy does it. 😁

Thank you kindly  Ken.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

Very neat and tidy and infinitely small, OC.

Thank you Mark,     yep   - deffo small, when I take my optovisor a glasses of I can't find  the thing.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

It was our Tenth  Anniversary   yesterday  the admiral and myself   (isn't that Silver),   any way  we had a quiet day in and I cooked us a Curry.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Amazing video of a Superb large scale model  - 

 

OC.

 

 

[yvesvidal]

13 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Amazing video of a Superb large scale model  - 

OC.

 

Not really a "scale model" per say, but Stefan D. is currently the Master at 3D rendering and has published a large number of absolute references and books on the subject of Battleships.

 

Yves

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   Next stage I decided to do  was one of the many sub assemblies  - namely the front funnel stack,  this sits on a square ventilation  unit  (assume thats what it is)   nice to see the funnels are one piece, mind you there is still a seam and the pips where its cut away still needed careful sanding/scraping,   I decided to limit the PE  on these as I did not see the need  or want to wreck the details by trying to bite off more than I can chew,  so  the only PE  on/in the funnels  was goung inside  - yep the  rounded walkway,  that was simply placed inside then a watered mix of PVA   brushed on.

I let it set then hand painted a couple of layers of Flat Back on the inside, I then  glued the funnel  down onto the sub assembly.

 

Next  considered the funnel top  - I looked at the PE  sections for it on the fret  - "No Way"  I compared it to the plastic  part and in fairness  there is not a lot in it  the Flyhawk plastic  rendition is really good - so that was glued in place,    next are a set of Five extrnal vents pipes  that sit in holes around the base of the funnel  - slightly fiddly as they need the taper on the ends angled outwards, with a tiny bit of glue added at there tops Two of them  done so far  were pushed  in place.

 

No pics as my battery was flat.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   more work continues  on the funnels  - I am doing the same to the  second funnel  just fitting the one piece of walkway PE inside  and using the kit  top,   both are dry fitted  and the second funnel awaiting Flat Black painted inside then closing up with the top.

 

OC.

[Landlubber Mike]

Very clean, crisp work there OC, nice job!

 

[Old Collingwood]

13 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Very clean, crisp work there OC, nice job!

 

Thank you Mike.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   more work on the funnels  contiunes  - these little sub assemblies  are  just about ready to prime and paint   still  dry fitted  to the deck.

 

OC.

[Landlubber Mike]

Those funnels are beautiful.  No PE needed, wow!

 

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Those funnels are beautiful.  No PE needed, wow!

 

Thanks Mike,   I am currently working on the tops  trying to thin the plastic  framework down a bit, it is quite fine as it is  (the close up exaggerates the pic and scale a bit)  uisng my sharp pointed blade  but will also try with  some  shaped narrow  sand paper, always the same how pics when zoomed in show  more work oyu need to do....

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all, I returned to the table  today and continued adding little tiny parts like  a boat cover over the cabin area  on one of the small launches,    then another smal block was added, I tried to zoom in to show some of the fine details  - and a wee bit of PE.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

I just found out by checking my pics I put on here  - the Carley floats have a upside/downside   - how cool is that at this scale, I never knew till I placed them and saw in the pics they  look different.

 

OC.

[mikegr]

On 12/4/2021 at 5:05 AM, Landlubber Mike said:

Those funnels are beautiful.  No PE needed, wow!

 

PE may look marginally better. What makes the difference between a nice model and a great one is that 5% extra detail. However i have to agree that this may not be an issue. There are many ways to overcome missing details or improve appearance. For example great paintwork can be critical. But can be of no importance at all

Take a look at this is fine artwork based on superb painting which is beyond critisism.

 

 

However looking at this handmade masterpiece it is easily understood that painting is of little if no importance. For me considering the fact that this is made only with basic tools in hand and not even putty for corrections, i believe painting would only damage the model

 

Edited December 6, 2021 by mikegr

[Kevin-the-lubber]

I've been casting around for a 'take a break from the victory' kit for a little while now and have to say, the small number of parts and angularity of a more modern ship is appealing. But 1:700? No way, not with these hands or eyes! You're a brave man OC, and making this look much larger than that scale. I read all the earlier stuff about taking the step into air-brushing; me too, earlier this year. I bought a cheap kit off amazon, chinese of course and perfectly fit for purpose, and am just starting to get the hang of the basics. I really like that, unlike rattle cans, you can lay down very fine layers which dry within minutes. I've only used vallejo model air paints and had a problem with yellow ochre, which kept clogging the tip in no time at all. Adding some vallejo flow improver fixed that completely. One micro lesson learned so far has been to premix the paint and improver in a small bottle so I can just top up the airbrush cup as I go. I also learned just this weekend that I could leave the paint in the cup for much longer than expected without the tip drying out and clogging; I probably went maybe 30 - 45 minutes between coats. So far I've been pretty religious about cleaning between colours and at the end of a session. In fact I spend more time cleaning than painting! But I do need to learn how to use the brush to paint fine detail and lines as, so far, I'm just body-shop spraying. Oh, another thing - the airbrush is handy for blowing off dust and stuff and, in my game, for speeding up the evaporation of IPA after washing resin prints.

 

I noticed this kit has some printed parts: it so lends itself to resin printing...

[Old Collingwood]

8 hours ago, mikegr said:

PE may look marginally better. What makes the difference between a nice model and a great one is that 5% extra detail. However i have to agree that this may not be an issue. There are many ways to overcome missing details or improve appearance. For example great paintwork can be critical. But can be of no importance at all

Take a look at this is fine artwork based on superb painting which is beyond critisism.

 

 

However looking at this handmade masterpiece it is easily understood that painting is of little if no importance. For me considering the fact that this is made only with basic tools in hand and not even putty for corrections, i believe painting would only damage the model

 

Some amazing builds out there  - and some astonishing   skill  levels that defy  belief.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

2 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

I've been casting around for a 'take a break from the victory' kit for a little while now and have to say, the small number of parts and angularity of a more modern ship is appealing. But 1:700? No way, not with these hands or eyes! You're a brave man OC, and making this look much larger than that scale. I read all the earlier stuff about taking the step into air-brushing; me too, earlier this year. I bought a cheap kit off amazon, chinese of course and perfectly fit for purpose, and am just starting to get the hang of the basics. I really like that, unlike rattle cans, you can lay down very fine layers which dry within minutes. I've only used vallejo model air paints and had a problem with yellow ochre, which kept clogging the tip in no time at all. Adding some vallejo flow improver fixed that completely. One micro lesson learned so far has been to premix the paint and improver in a small bottle so I can just top up the airbrush cup as I go. I also learned just this weekend that I could leave the paint in the cup for much longer than expected without the tip drying out and clogging; I probably went maybe 30 - 45 minutes between coats. So far I've been pretty religious about cleaning between colours and at the end of a session. In fact I spend more time cleaning than painting! But I do need to learn how to use the brush to paint fine detail and lines as, so far, I'm just body-shop spraying. Oh, another thing - the airbrush is handy for blowing off dust and stuff and, in my game, for speeding up the evaporation of IPA after washing resin prints.

 

I noticed this kit has some printed parts: it so lends itself to resin printing...

What a great idea  -  pre mixing the Vallejo flow improver  with the paint  and keeping in a bottle, I have a few empty vallejo bottles  might see if the nozzles pull out so I can  pre mix my  Lifecolour  AP507A  and some flow improver, what I have been doing  is  filling up the airbrush cup to about 3/4  full  then adding about 3/4  drops of flow improver then a quick mix with a brush  - then spraying, but I can see the advantage of it ready mixed.

 

With the scale 1/700   I think if you can do a reasonable job at this scale  - any other scale (larger)  just gets more achievable and dare I say  easier.

 

OC.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

27 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

any other scale (larger)  just gets more achievable and dare I say  easier

 Not feeling easier over here. Just more visible. Maybe it's easier to hide the sins at 1:700? 😝

 

Yes, I too was mixing it in the cup with the wrong end of a paintbrush. To be honest it worked fine but, as we we used to say in the trade, that's all very well in practice but no good in theory.

[mikegr]

1 hour ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

 Not feeling easier over here. Just more visible. Maybe it's easier to hide the sins at 1:700? 😝

 

Yes, I too was mixing it in the cup with the wrong end of a paintbrush. To be honest it worked fine but, as we we used to say in the trade, that's all very well in practice but no good in theory.

I bought my first airbrush too it comes with a mini compressor. Mostly for general painting and making shades on sea base. First attempt was white not the best color to start with. Will see how it goes.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   Bit of a step backwards  - or rather  not able to fit certain PE  on the kit,   I attempted to fit some very fiddly - bendy - delicate - thin  - hard to pick up Aerials,   some plan number two  - scrap them and dont fit them,   then while starting work on the  front lower conning tower, I noticed a plastic part that had to be fitted both sides at the rear of the weather deck had come away,   I found it and re glued it  but the area will need a wee bit of light sanding when dry.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   another couple of hours spent on little hood  -  I decided to attack that little block that is supposed to have some aerials attached to it - remember the PE versions was a disaster, so I decided to have a go with some wire I have, I drilled a hole both sides then cut the wire equal lengths and glued them in place with super glue,   when dry I bent the ends up.

I then cleaned up the end of the weather deck where that piece kept falling away.

 

I also started work on the lower section of the front conning tower, this had two small  supports  and the PE ladders fitted.

 

OC. 

[Old Collingwood]

I forgot to mention  the rather  untidy  look of some of it  is  because I zoomed in about 20x  to show the detail,  at normal viewing  you can hardly  see the ladders/aerials  etc, I will tidy  it up more before I paint the sub assemblies.

 

OC.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

It looks pretty darn tidy to me, especially at that scale. Model photography is a cruel mistress.

[king derelict]

I'm enjoying looking at the build on my big laptop screen. The detail is very good and your PE is very well done. Its starting to get busy and its going to be a spectacular model

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

30 minutes ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

It looks pretty darn tidy to me, especially at that scale. Model photography is a cruel mistress.

Thank you kindly.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

6 minutes ago, king derelict said:

I'm enjoying looking at the build on my big laptop screen. The detail is very good and your PE is very well done. Its starting to get busy and its going to be a spectacular model

Alan

Thank you so much  Alan,   its funny  looking at it with my glasses and optovisor (full strength glass unit)  or when zoomed in  with the photo  it looks scruffy  to me, but when I view it just with my normal reading glasses  - it doesn't look too bad.

 

OC.

Edited December 7, 2021 by Old Collingwood