German Military Car Typ 170 V Tourenwagen - Master Box - by CDW - 1:35 Scale

[Old Collingwood]

36 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

CDW,

Have a look at OC's Battle of Waterloo topic.  He does a great job of describing how he does figures.

Thanks Mark,    yes if you think they help  Craig  - have a look  (I know you do anyway).

 

Best tip's  are to to use washes to bring out the detail in the faces and hands  - lots of purpose made acrylic washes out there,  and with the uniforms  again use a wash for the shadows  and  dry brush for the highlights  (but very lightly)

Its all about practice as most of our hobby is mate.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

6 hours ago, CDW said:

In some fashion that has not yet been fully determined, will use the sets of figures pictured in this thread (see some of the earlier posts) to complete the vignette (or diorama if you will 😃). I’ll have plenty of time to decide as the figures will take a while to complete. Figure painting is not my forte. I know very little about it and have attempted it even less. Will follow some tutorials in the process and see how it shapes up. Always love learning new things.

 

This looks like it will be really interesting and a great setting for the car. The cars engine and running gear looks terrific, really like well used metal.

I look forward to seeing the figures being painted. I'm thinking of trying a few in the shadow of the experts.

Great Stuff

Alan

[CDW]

17 minutes ago, king derelict said:

This looks like it will be really interesting and a great setting for the car. The cars engine and running gear looks terrific, really like well used metal.

I look forward to seeing the figures being painted. I'm thinking of trying a few in the shadow of the experts.

Great Stuff

Alan

Thanks for the comments Alan.

Im not one of the expert figure painters, but have watched a lot of tutorials and am looking forward to trying out the tips and tricks. Make no promises but will give it a shot. 😄

[CDW]

Both sides of the car body have a slight sink mark where the rear doors meet the body. A dab of putty should solve the problem in short order.

 

[CDW]

The well detailed interior is detailed with separate brake, clutch, and accelerator pedals, parking brake lever, and a gear shifter that will be added after painting. 
 

[CDW]

2 hours ago, mtaylor said:

CDW,

Have a look at OC's Battle of Waterloo topic.  He does a great job of describing how he does figures.

By all means. OC’s work is fabulous!

[CDW]

For some reason, I thought German cars had the driver’s seated on the right. Is right hand driver seating only in the UK?

[Old Collingwood]

2 minutes ago, CDW said:

By all means. OC’s work is fabulous!

Thank you Craig, I think that is a rather generous compliment  - but thank you.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

26 minutes ago, CDW said:

For some reason, I thought German cars had the driver’s seated on the right. Is right hand driver seating only in the UK?

Yep. I think Sweden used to drive the same side as Britain but they switched in the 1960s I think which must have been a fun experience

Alan

[king derelict]

28 minutes ago, king derelict said:

Yep. I think Sweden used to drive the same side as Britain but they switched in the 1960s I think which must have been a fun experience

Alan

Sweden - September 3rd 1967

http://realscandinavia.com/files/2014/09/kungsgatan1967.jpg

[CDW]

Popped it in the dehydrator for 30 minutes at 113 degrees F and completely dried the acrylic putty then sanded it down. When finished, layer down a coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 primer. It’s now ready for painting.

 

[CDW]

I know I should make it a habit to wash the kit plastic trees in a mild solution of water with dishwashing liquid before beginning each build, but I don't. This time it almost reached out and bit me hard because this kit plastic had traces of mold release agent which in turn caused the primer paint to fish-eye. It's been a long time since I had a kit where that has happened, but this one is a prime example of why it's a good habit to pre wash and dry the plastic first.

 

Just putting this up here as a public service announcement. 🙂

[CDW]

A few years ago I bought this 2.5 liter ultrasonic cleaner. You just drop your plastic part trees or photo etch sheets in there, pour in enough water to cover the parts, add a couple of drops of dish washing liquid, then set your timer and turn it on while the washer does it’s thing. This one heats the water, too. Does a great job prepping photo etch for paint.

 

[Baker]

23 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Wouldn't supprise me if the put it underneath one of the Two front seats in a box like construction, can't find any reference to its actual location on the net.

 

OC.

 

This could be the battery  (I cut mine in half especially for this picture 😉)

Edited September 2, 2021 by Backer

[CDW]

27 minutes ago, Backer said:

 

This could be the battery  (I cut mine in half especially for this picture 😉)

 

Thanks for the sacrifice to help clear this up. 😀

[CDW]

Laid down some German gray paint tonight in four stages, modulation.

 

First stage

 

 

second stage

 

 

third stage

 

 

fourth stage

 

 

will finish it off with some grime and a little rust here and there. Next will work on the interior.

[CDW]

Blue-gray interior color

 

[popeye the sailor]

WOW!  you've made some really good progress !   very nice indeed !     a couple of comments I'd like to add is that the fuel tank is where it is for a good reason.   fuel systems relied on suction for mechanical fuel pumps.......pressure for today's cars.  the early systems likely relied on gravity feed for  fuel delivery.....putting the tank over the engine would certainly accomplish that.   ....and yes.....most batteries were located under the driver's seat of floor board.  the master cylinder is probably there as well.  my brother knew a guy that had an old American staff car,  and that was how it was set up.....except it had a mechanical fuel pump...the tank was located in the rear undercarriage.  

 

good you held off on some of the rust and dirt....now that the body is in place,  you can go mental    but it does matter though on how long it's been out in the 'wild'   ....could have been a new addition to the pool.   great job......looking spectacular!

[Old Collingwood]

Loving the paintwork Craig  - those layers really make a difference.

 

OC.

[CDW]

You get two complete hoods in this kit. One is molded for the closed position, and the other for a folded or open position. I plan to display it closed, but am tempted to build and paint the folded open hood just for kicks. I like the engine bay detail and of course none of it can be seen with it displayed with a closed hood.

 

[CDW]

There are a lot of diorama possibilities in my shop. Got to practice.

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Some beauties there Craig  - so many options and as complicated as you want to go  - or space allows.

 

OC.

[king derelict]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

You get two complete hoods in this kit. One is molded for the closed position, and the other for a folded or open position. I plan to display it closed, but am tempted to build and paint the folded open hood just for kicks. I like the engine bay detail and of course none of it can be seen with it displayed with a closed hood.

 

Very impressive Craig. The paint finish is so smooth; its beautiful. I have been havering about the six wheel Mercedes staff car and this might nudge me over the edge; especially with the diorama possibilities. Great work

The pin up girls and the Hitler Youth are the obvious items for the diorama 😄

Alan

Alan

[Javlin]

I was wondering about the word modulation then the black base got it just got finished with a 1/48 Lagg-3 ICM winter did the same coverage was far from perfect on the Eastern Front looking good Craig but Pin-ups Brothel!!😄

[CDW]

Just now, Javlin said:

I was wondering about the word modulation then the black base got it just got finished with a 1/48 Lagg-3 ICM winter did the same coverage was far from perfect on the Eastern Front looking good Craig but Pin-ups Brothel!!😄

Mr Color has a few modulation sets that box four varying shades of paint, dark to light, in one set. One is for gray German vehicles (the one I'm using), one set for green Japanese aircraft, one set for sand-desert colored vehicles, and one set for Japanese navy.

So the idea is to lay down the darkest color first, then gradually lighten it with the next three lighter shades. This gives a 3D effect and shadows. 

It's easy enough to do the same thing by adding a varying percentage of lighter color to a dark base color of any paint brand, but I particularly like the Mr Color lacquer paints. They behave well out of the airbrush, plus I can thin them down quite a bit without getting runs in the paint. Gives me better paint flow control than I can get with acrylics.

 

Here is a Israeli tank I did with the desert yellow modulation set:

 

 

[CDW]

These two characters didn’t heed the warning and drowned in my pool today.

 

[mtaylor]

As I scrolled down the screen, it looked like the tank shot them.   LOL

[CDW]

I had not considered how tricky it might be to get the figures fitted into the model. 
Had to break away the clutch and brake pedals, then break away the steering wheel and column. A rough dry fit indicates I can get it to work. After painting the figure, will need glue the wheel into his hands then deal with the steering column. The clutch and brake pedals cannot stay, not enough space and you couldn’t see them anyway.

The remaining figures should fit much more easily. Nothing in the way.

 

[Edwardkenway]

Really nice smooth paintwork Craig,  the figures can only enhance an already great build!

 

15 hours ago, mtaylor said:

As I scrolled down the screen, it looked like the tank shot them.   LOL

I also thought the same! Shame to waste good H/E rounds on them when the MGs would have been sufficient!

[CDW]

1 hour ago, Edwardkenway said:

Really nice smooth paintwork Craig,  the figures can only enhance an already great build!

 

I also thought the same! Shame to waste good H/E rounds on them when the MGs would have been sufficient!

Thanks Edward. I'm not a figure painter but will give it my best shot. Been watching some techniques that I'll try out here for the first time, so will just have to see how it goes.