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Lady Nelson by Dave_E - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64


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Good Afternoon Everyone, 

 

Couple of photos on “Dave’s method for cannon rigging”. This Dave borrowed the idea from another Dave. 👍Thanks Dave. Then… I’d like opinions from those of you who have built the LN or any of the period cutters out there. Do I mount it now, or rig the anchors now? Get the rudder and tiller on? Does the tiller get in the way of rigging?

 

EC87BDAD-A795-4EB2-8835-19676DB09DF7.thumb.jpeg.26b873b5c4781a1f77bffa248b7615b7.jpegAC7C40CD-B1B1-4838-AD8F-D5035F2A43FC.thumb.jpeg.f50df847e8769689b7c92a0177d6b7a2.jpeg15254574-EF1F-4B79-8656-B798D3CC1AEE.thumb.jpeg.4cde1ae8a52d4c03a39bf605fac9b6de.jpeg

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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Hi Dave, everything is looking great. I would wait  a while before mounting the anchors and the rudder. 

Regards……..Paul 

 

Completed Builds   Glad Tidings Model Shipways. -   Nordland Boat. Billings Boats . -  HM Cutter Cheerful-1806  Syren Model Ship Company. 

 

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Hey Paul, 

I'm really going into uncharted territory now. Haven't done any rigging (except the cannons) since I built a few plastic sailing ships 43 years ago. 😳 I'm kind of nervous about doing anything right now. Mount and call it good? I'M KIDDING. 😆 Every step is an adventure. I did see something I forgot. I installed the belaying pin board, rack, structure?IMG_0005.thumb.JPG.75b9fe395c1dfd578dcc1f360ba49a19.JPG

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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 Dave, from experience i'd suggest doing the rigging last. Trying to add elements after rigging makes for lines being too easily snagged and damaged. One damaged line can lead to hours of redo. A rigged ship is a delicate and tender thing. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Actually you should mount it before starting rigging. 
 

Those out of scale fat belaying pins will make it harder to rig. Check out Crafty Sailor for a much better option. 

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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Monumental day in the shipyard! Never thought about the waterline and mounting, just painted it per drawing. 😐 It's OK. 🙂

IMG_2985.thumb.JPG.3d8b0e24b5bf9657fccd1d45d1b8ac9c.JPGe

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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 Dave, she's looking great! Your determination has resulted in a smart looking Lady Nelson. 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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35 minutes ago, drjeckl said:

I think the breeching line should have a connection to each of the side of the carriage, thru a ring-connected-to an-eyelet in the side of the carriage.

I agree with John.  The following is from Congreve's Treatise. 

Allan

1168646037_BreechingfromCongreve.thumb.JPG.764181a45b98b79e46d9dcde43838f47.JPG

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Thank you all for following and helping with the knowledge and techniques of the hobby. Yes, the breeching lines of the cannons should have gone through eyes on the carriage. I do not have a hobby drill press and decided to forgo any cannon carriage detail with this first build as I did not have the ability to drill the metal carriages supplied by Amati. Next build will have wooden carriages that will accept a pin drill and can mount any number of eyes. Thanks for the picture Allan, I’ve set that aside for the next build as a reference. 😀

Edited by Dave_E

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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Dave, Just as an FYI, for the next go around, according to Caruana's The History of English Sea Ordnance, Volume 2, page 386,  32 pounders and above normally had a double block and single block for the running out and training tackle.   For calibers below the 32pounders the running out tackle  and training tackle normally had two singles, not a double and single.

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Hi All,

 

Another serious noob question. Here I am at the rigging phase of construction. What do I do first?😊

Edited by Dave_E

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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Dave, it starts with research and looking at tons of build logs. You should have a rigging plan for the LN, correct? 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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1 hour ago, Keith Black said:

Dave, it starts with research and looking at tons of build logs. You should have a rigging plan for the LN, correct? 

Hey Keith,

 

If your referring to rigging on the plan sheets, yes I do. I just spent 2 hours studying the kit plans, the rigging book I mentioned above and one of our good members completed LN build. The Admiral came down to check on me because it was to quiet. 😆 I’ll start with the standing rigging I recon.

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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Hi Dave

When David Lees wrote The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 Alan Villiers noted in the Foreward on page vi that this is a most useful book for the sailing ship modelmaker and for all students of such ships and their rigging.  To that end, Lees includes the order of dressing the masts and yards on page 158.   This includes standing rigging attached to the parts of the masts and rigging attached to the yards such as braces, lifts, footropes, &c. 


In addition, as can seen in most build logs here at MSW, it is pretty much a given that rigging the yards as much as possible before securing to the masts is preferable including the blocks to the trestle trees and yards followed by the foot ropes.

 

Lees does not give an order of dressing for the running rigging but working from inboard to outboard on the model seems to work for most modelers.  Perhaps your kit gives some guidance as well.  

 

Allan

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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 Dave, Allan. I found it helpful rigging for the first time that I first understood the mechanical workings of the running rigging. The stays are pretty self explanatory. A rigging plan will get someone from point A to point B but when done that someone may not fully understand what they just did. One has to know how blocks and line work in relationship with one another. As I said, when a rigging plan is available you can get there but as one branches out to scratch building and a rigging plan may not be available, it's essential that one understands mechanical advantages and what's taking place when a line is run. 

 

 Dave, that's why I suggested research being the first step. The better sense you have of rigging starting out, the better you'll be served later on. 

 

 The better you understand rigging, the less there is to fear. 

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Good Morning Guys,

 

Thank you both for the input. I’m thinking another book might be in order. I love the references available on the build logs, however it’s a chore to bookmark a page I think will be of great help or to print many pages and have available for references and of course the old memory “where did I see that”. Absolutely concur, once you understand what a line or piece of rigging does and how it works, it helps us with the how, and maybe when to get it installed. 

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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After setting the mast usually the shrouds first, then the bowsprit, then standing (black), finally running (tan). Work bottom up and middle out following the rigging plan for rope and block sizes and where things run. Other than the shrouds don’t permanently fix lines until you have them all run then go back and adjust as needed. Lines should be taunt not tight.
 

The LN model has very simple rigging, I used Peterson’s Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft book and even my similar Cheerful’s plans to add more to mine.  Many of the frequently cited references don’t apply to cutters, this particular book does. It has lots of nice easy to follow diagrams. Just be logical about what you can get to now and or won’t be able to fit fingers or tools later. There’s no magic, just a line at a time.  

 
Of course the many LN build logs are there as ready reference.

 

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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Thanks Glenn, I’ve had your LN on speed dial for some time and appreciate all the tips you’ve given me over the course of the build. 👍😊

 

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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Congratulations, Dave! A build milestone. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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May I suggest that you complete fitting the bowsprit, boom  and driver gaff before fitting any rigging. You'll find it much easier than trying to work round any existing rigging, particularly the boom and gaff. I have built this model although I don't have the build on this site.

 

Rick

Edited by Rick01
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Hi All,

Progress continues… Standing rigging complete less catwalks, will start that tomorrow perhaps. Lots of lessons learned. Broke just about every cannon loose, broke the rudder off (I believe someone told me not to put it on yet), and broke off one of the catheads. 😕 The scale rope that came with the kit was hairier than Harry Henderson and while I was using the lighter to burn off the hairs, I torched one, it went to flame and well, you know the rest. 😆 I know there are boo-boos regarding seizing. From 2 feet away it looks amazing. 😀

 

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Edited by Dave_E

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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 Dave, the rigging looks great but how in the heck did you break the rudder? There's no rigging back there, did you have LN in a headlock? :) 

 

 It seems most kit supplied cotton line stinks. On your next project you might consider getting line from Chuck or possibly laying up your own. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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I don't see the cleats on the lower section of the mast, did you forget them? It can also be a bit of a pain fitting the boom and gaff as attaching the parrel beads to the yoke jaws will be a bit more fiddly. Standing rigging itself does look good.

 

Rick

  

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Hi Keith,

 

I was turning the base around to work on the other side of the ship, hand touched something, heard a crunch… 😕
As I was using the LN supplied rope and the lighter, I was very impressed with both Syren’s rope as well as Ropes of Scale that I have purchased. Then I opened up the Rattlesnake box to look at the rope supplied by MS. Really impressed, no fuzz at all. Don’t know whether it’s cotton or polyester.

Dave

 

Current builds: Rattlesnake

Completed builds: Lady Nelson

On the shelf: NRG Half Hull Project, Various metal, plastic and paper models

 

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