Stands and display cases

[RobMann79]

I am not selling anything, more seeing if there is a need from other builders for a custom stand or case. If there were enough people interested maybe something can be done for folks. If this is in the wrong spot on the forum I apologize , I am new to all this. 

[allanyed]

Hi Rob

There is a need but I am not sure how this could be done commercially on a relatively small scale.  Some of us build our own cases, some get them from a local cabinet maker.   There are a few on-line but not sure how well these work out, especially for large models.   A fully rigged model of a 1:48 scale ship can be in the neighborhood of 4 feet long, four feet high, and 2 feet wide.  Shipping the frame and panes or base with pre-assembled cover would require a full blown shipping crate.  Maybe display case kits in a few  dozen stock sizes would work.  I hope this winds up being a success for you as building cases is not my favorite pastime.

Allan

[RobMann79]

I'm not sure if my response to your post is the correct way, I'm new to forums. That being said, Thank you for your feedback Allan!🙂 I have looked at some modeling companies that offer cases for upwards of 500$ then you have to sand, stain, buy your own glass, and assemble. I don't want to get really big, more of a side gig. Was thinking stain and customer picks trim, ship disassembled, with plexi glass instead of glass,  same for bases pick your trim pattern stain color. I'm not looking to go back and forth on if it's a good idea or not, it seems that if i did create some kind of gig, people would be interested ,but don't expect to get rich is what I'm feeling from this. Now that I think about what has been said, there probably is a reason there are not a lot of them floating around these forums. Maybe just a daydream gone afloat, the more and more I think about what was said, it does sound like a logistical nightmare...Anyway thanks for all that have read this and responded.

[JKC27]

I was looking for a display case for my current build.  Want to protect it from dust, and my very curious cats.  Did some shopping locally (Windsor, Ontario) and was shocked at the prices for clear acrylic - chain craft store was going to charge upwards of $600 CDN for just the acrylic, then it was on me to build it, etc.  My case is going to be about 48" X 8" X 12" with a wood base, which I made with spare lumber I had around the garage.  Apparently glass is cheaper, but still a couple hundred, and then again...i would have assemble it.  BlueJacket has some really nice display cases they can build, but again the cost is high and then you have to factor in shipping.

 

Yes the need is there. 

 

After talking to my favourite local hobby shop, they directed me to a local industrial supply company that sells acrylic sheets or varying thicknesses.  Well, just like a carpet/flooring store....they have a cut remnants bin.  I was able to source 1/4" shatter proof, super clear acrylic in 4 pieces for $30.00 - all I had to do is put it on my table saw and cut to desired sizes (this stuff cuts great with a standard blade).  I have the adhesive I need and now just have to stick them together.  Hopefully it won't look too messy, but this glue is really thin and apparently fills any gaps easily.

 

I think the main issue is shipping costs.

[Bob Cleek]

Yes, the shipping costs for an assembled case of any size will be quite expensive and for that reason, I suppose that's why the store-bought cases for models are with few exceptions sold as knocked-down kits less the glass or acrylic.  If the case were built of glass and shipped assembled, not only would the weight occasion higher shipping costs, but a "bullet-proof" packing crate would have to be built, as well. When the cost of the glass or acrylic is considered, the case kits are really overpriced in my opinion if one has a table saw handy. (The average table saw blade easily forms a slot which holds the glazing stock.)

 

Acrylic glazing is lighter and for that reason alone might appear preferable, but I've found, in my area, at least, that the proper acrylic sheet material for the job, which is made for picture framing and so has UV shielding in it, can be more expensive than picture frame grade UV resistant glass. Given the time and effort invested in a model worthy of being cased, as most are, the cost of frame materials becomes a justifiable investment in presenting and preserving the model and the additional cost of UV protection is wise. Finding it the least expensive source, I now source my UV-shielded case glass from the picture-framing department of the my local craft outlet.  (Michael's.) I rip my own frame stock on my table saw, milling it when desired on the router table or with a milling head and cutters in the table saw, depending on the shape required and the cutter blades or router bits on hand. 

 

Recognizing that others' mileage may vary, it should be noted that acrylic glazing, even of the highest quality, is generally not used by most museums.  First is the concern about the material's acidic outgassing which can destroy the exhibited artifact. It also scratches easily unless sheathed an an expensive scratch-resisting sheathing. It lacks the strength of glass and large pieces tend to "sag." Significantly, from a cost-benefit analysis, aside from very expensive rare variants, the life-span of acrylic glazing is rated at no more than two years! (I've seen it last a lot longer, but this is the manufacturers' and curators' agreed lifespan.) 

 

Anybody who is contemplating building a case for a model they hope will survive them for a generation or maybe three may find this article on "museum quality" archival cases helpful. It's focus is general display case archival "best practices" for  all types of museum exhibits and the hobbyist modeler will certainly find compromises from the "ultimate" standards appropriate, but if you consider your model "museum quality," it defines what a "museum quality" case for it should be.

 

 https://museumdisplaycase.com/

[Charles Green]

The material, fit and finish of a display case are all are on display as much as the model inside.  Good work can't come cheap.  Frame shops minimize cost by standardizing molding profiles, running long pieces for supply and cutting to length as a job requires.  The downside: this anticipates need and requires maintaining inventory. 

 

As for glazing: Tru Vue sells acrylic and glass sheets for archival display purposes.  They offer a variety of types covering a wide range of costs.   Take a look at their web site and click on the "Products" category.   In comparison to common acrylic, their "Optimum Museum Acrylic" is really amazing when viewed through.  It's also really expensive, but there is no way around it.  It has an indefinite lifespan, is anti-reflective, anti-static, scratch resistant, does not out-gas, UV blocking, it's flat - no ripple distortion - a problem lesser quality acrylic does not control, and it's thinner than standard acrylic.  This property minimizes refraction error while reducing weight.  I was told, by a third party, the scratch resistant coating will stand up to steel wool - It will not - But it will stand up to any common, non-abrasive cleaning method.  The anti-static property does lengthen the time between cleanings.  "Anti-reflective" vs "Anti-glare": Anti-glare is achieved by slightly frosting the panel's surface.  This will inhibit viewing of fine detail.  Not so with anti-reflective treatment. 

 

Applied surface treatments to inhibit scratching and reflectivity will not allow glue-joints unless the treatments are removed.  The surface adjacent to the glue joint must be masked off.  Then, the surface treatment on the area to be glued is removed with abrasive.    

  

[bear]

Ahoy Check out Modelers Workshop for Ricks custom made display cases. I have bought from Rick for over a decade, his cases are made to order and reasonably priced. 

 

Keith

[Cathead]

If you do try to sell cases, my advice would be not to under-price them. Not only does this not reward you for your skill and time, but it undercuts professionals who need to get a certain price for their work. Cheap work undercutting skilled work is already the bane of the model-selling world, no need to add to it with respect to cases.

[allanyed]

1 hour ago, bear said:

Ahoy Check out Modelers Workshop for Ricks custom made display cases

Do you have  his website address that you can post here?

Thanks

Allan

 

Edited September 2, 2022 by allanyed

[Roger Pellett]

Bob Cleek’s post is right on.  If your workshop includes a full sized table saw glass cases are not difficult to make.  I rip the wood from hardwood stock, my favorite is American Black Walnut.  I have a set of “vintage” Sears Molding cutters that fit on my table saw.  I have never had good results with a router. The glass groove is made with a regular table saw blade.  My cases are not works of art, joints are simple 45 degree miters.

 

Unlike Bob, I have not felt the need to use UV resistant glass, but I don’t live in sunny California😁.  I take careful measurements and let someone else cut the glass.  Cut single strength glass from Ace Hardware was inexpensive.

 

Roger

[Jim Rogers]

This case cost me over $600 in material. All of my cases are like this, I thought about selling them but the price would be to much, heck I wouldn’t buy them at the price I would charge. And as usual it is hit or miss if pictures will be right side up. This is the reason I quit posting. Just frustrating.

[mtaylor]

9 minutes ago, Jim Rogers said:

This case cost me over $600 in material. All of my cases are like this, I thought about selling them but the price would be to much, heck I wouldn’t buy them at the price I would charge. And as usual it is hit or miss if pictures will be right side up. This is the reason I quit posting. Just frustrating.

Just edit the photo in Paint or basically any drawing program.  Open it, make sure it right side (or rotate if needed) and then save it.  If it shows up right side up in the drawing program, still save it.   When done, upload the image.

 

By perchance are you using a smartphone for photos and uploading?   Seems to be a common problem with them.

[hollowneck]

Very nice casework. Love the wood choices and additional detailing. Your case presents your model beautifully.

 

On posting photos, Mark's suggestion should work as he suggested: by first bringing the photos into an image editing program, saving them in the correct orientation and then uploading these image edited photos directly from your computer to the forum. Using a "smartphone" for photos is fine (assuming you're doing this). Just send them from your phone to your computer first, after editing them into your image editing software, upload to the forum.

 

I use my old and creaky iPhone 6 for all my shop WIP photos and I haven't had any problems uploading them to my build log here. 

[RobMann79]

Very nice work on the display cases shown! I do agree on not undercutting prices cause it does make the market cheap. Shipping does seem to be a problem. Also thank you to everyone that has given advice to products for builds. I'm new to this site but this is what makes it seem so great, is everyone gets together on advice and knowledge. 

[RobMann79]

1 hour ago, Jim Rogers said:

This case cost me over $600 in material. All of my cases are like this, I thought about selling them but the price would be to much, heck I wouldn’t buy them at the price I would charge. And as usual it is hit or miss if pictures will be right side up. This is the reason I quit posting. Just frustrating.

Beautiful work!

[Bob Cleek]

2 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Unlike Bob, I have not felt the need to use UV resistant glass, but I don’t live in sunny California😁.  I take careful measurements and let someone else cut the glass.  Cut single strength glass from Ace Hardware was inexpensive.

I have a set of those Craftsman molding cutters, too. I've found they work better than a router, too.  

 

I specify dimensions for the glass and have it on hand before I start to build the frame. It's a lot easier to cut the frame to fit the glass than to try to re-cut the glass to fit the frame! I  always keep models out of direct sunlight, but along the way I found that UV-shielded picture frame glass didn't cost a whole lot more than window glass.

 

[Roger Pellett]

I’m afraid in my workshop practices I’ve never lost the “beat to fit” mentality from building things as a teenager!  Cutting the glass ahead of time and then building the case to fit it is great idea.

 

Roger

[robert952]

20 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Just edit the photo in Paint or basically any drawing program.  Open it, make sure it right side (or rotate if needed) and then save it.  If it shows up right side up in the drawing program, still save it.   When done, upload the image.

 

By perchance are you using a smartphone for photos and uploading?   Seems to be a common problem with them.

Just as a few other 'options'... and a bit OT but hopefully useful.

 

Yep, images from a phone can do strange things when transferred to a PC hard drive.

 

However...

 

In File Manager (Windows - not sure if other operating systems to this), right click a photo icon (jpg, png, etc.) and you have  options in the drop down menu to rotate right or left (90 degrees per click) .  The file just rotates and 'overwrites' the original without having to specifically tell it to save the file.  

 

You can also use Windows Photo Viewer to open a photo file.  WPV doesn't require the computer overhead of larger photo editors.  Advantage of this software:  if you have several images in your directory which need rotation, you can use WPV to rotate a file (which is automagically saved in the new orientation as with above) then use the right or left button to move to the next image.  Rotate is the only 'editing function' here. 

 

AND...Windows includes an app called Snip and Sketch.  The main purpose of this app is to do a screen capture as an image (not a video).  But you can also open an existing file and rotate it.  Plus you can crop it to remove background stuff to focus on what you want to show.  You do have to do a file save.  That allows you to maintain the original image and have the edited image.  S&S has a few other tools that can be helpful in some very specific uses but not full fledged photo editor.

 

(And for those fluent in PowerPoint - there's actually some pretty decent photo editing tools there.  But I have hi-jacked this thread enough for one day.)

 

 

[BenD]

https://www.acrylicjob.com/ 

 

They are reasonably priced and come flat packed making the shipping easier and cheaper. Hard to beat that, however they are rather simple looking. 

 

@RobMann79 If you can match or exceed that quality I'm sure there would be a fair amount of interest from this site.

 

 

[RobMann79]

BenD that link you sent for that company, that's a tough one to beat. The more I look into all this it seems risky. The price of some wood alone is the whole price of the cases there. I think Im going to let this idea float on down the river.

[John Gummersall]

I have ordered several of my cases from Grandpa's Cabinets ( https://www.grandpascabinets.com/ ).     Bring you wallet,,, he is not giving them away by any means.    But to me the quality is fantastic.

[RobMann79]

Yeah they look amazing!

 

[RobMann79]

Here is a base I made for Benjamin Latham that I am currently working on. I chose a simple edge , its made from oak and tung oil for a finish.