Medway Longboat 1742 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Model Company - ½” scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post 35  - Oars.

As a small diversion I have been looking at the oars.

 

The kit provides ⅛” square stock in cedar plus oar blade blanks for the oar makings.

 

The oars require quite a bit of fettling to improve their authenticity.

The oars properly consist of a handle, loom, shank, and blade, each of which has a proportion relative to the overall length.

 

The kit oars have a scale length of 253mm which equates to a near 20’

 

When I built the 1:48 scale version of the Longboat I used the following formula to determine the oar length for double banked rowing.

Divide the span by 2, and then add 2 to this number. The result is called the “inboard loom length” of the oar. Multiply the loom length by 25, and then divide that number by 7. The result is the proper oar length in inches.

 

The span (breadth) between the tholes of the 1:24 scale boat is 130mm, scaling to 122.8”. Applying the above formula results in a figure of 226.50” =18.9’ overall length.

 

Using Steel’s tables for a 19’ oar I calculated the requirements for the individual sections.

Section         L    scale equiv          Thickness

Handle         10"      10.6mm          1.85mm Ø

 

Loom           60"      63.5mm         Thick:  4.1mm

                                                         Depth: 4.1mm

Shank          91"      95.25mm 

   

Blade           72"       76.2mm        Breadth.

                                                   Inner end: 3.2mm

                                                   Outer end: 6.35mm

                                                   Thickness

                                                   Inner end: 2.91mm

                                                   outer end: 0.92mm

 

These are the proportions and finished sizes I am using.

 mm          Handle    Loom      Shank          Blade

 

Length        10.5           50.8        95.3              72.0

Thickness    1.9mm ø    4.0       4–2.75mm      1.75 mm Inner

                                                                               0.90 mm Outer

                                                          Breadth         3.2 mm Inner         

                                                                                 6.4 mm Outer 

 

The wood lathe is required for the turning and the sections are marked along the length.

0345

I am using a combination of files and sanding papers, but a light touch is required given the length and flexibility of the Cedar section.

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I am aiming to show the subtle thickness of the loom before it runs into the shank.

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It helps to have a simple card gauge to check the sizes at the different points.

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The Blade

The kit provided blade blanks can’t be used with this arrangement they are too short.

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I remade the blades out some scrap 1.75mm Cedar. They are 72mm long with an inner breadth of 4mm (unfinished) and outer breadth of 6.4mm.

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The blades taper to a thickness of 0.9mm at the outer end, and

a shallow curve has been induced to the blade.

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The blades are glued into place before final shaping.

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Compared to the plan, the swelling of the Loom is subtle but evident, and the blade is significantly narrower at the shank end giving a more graceful line.

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Back to the main event.

 

B.E.

21/08/2024

 

[Ronald-V]

That looks really neat! 💫

[Thukydides]

Those oars look really nice. Also as usual I learned something. I always appreciate that you take the time to explain the why not just the what.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 36

A clean-up and further coats of w-o-p have been applied to the hull.

 

The thwarts have been lightly glued into place except for the one aft of the Mast thwart which will allow removal for easier fitting of the mast step.

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The thwart knees have been shaped and fitted as required.

Careful bevelling is required particularly for the Bow thwart knees.

 

Thole Pins.

Innocuous little sticks you may think, easy to make, but quite tricky to fit uniformly into the pristine cap rail. The spacing between the thole sets, each aft of the thwarts, and the line along the cap rail need careful attention.

 

There is no template for this, I think marking the positions on the plan drawing, would have been useful.

 

The tholes are marked on the elevations, and a line can be struck between the two elevation drawings to transfer the positions to the elevation showing the thwart positions in place.

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This results in the positions relative to the frames.

 

The tholes are placed ⅛” apart, which is the thickness of the Oar section.

The ‘master’ version.

I fitted the tholes by sight using the above and by reference to this photo from Chuck’s build.

 

Pins were cut to 15mm lengths for chucking  and allowing for a final fit of 5mm above the cap rail 3mm below.

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I used a length of ⅛” section cedar strip to provide both the space between the pins and a square line between the two sides.

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A couple of the pins required re-positioning but once I was happy, they were glued into place and levelled by means of a 5mm section drilled to fit over the pin.

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The capping rail inevitably takes some wear during the fitting and gluing process, but I mask it for the final sanding and rounding of the pins.

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I have at least for the present decided to leave the pins bright with an application of w-o-p.

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I have included the thole pins in the cockpit area as represented on the contemporary open frame model.

 

The boat is almost complete now, just a few bits and pieces to complete and tidy up.

I’m not thinking of masting and rigging the model  at this point but I do intend to make all the spars for inclusion with the display.

 

B.E.

 

22/08/2024

[Blue Ensign]

Post 37

Display stand.

Chuck has provided a handsome display stand for the Longboat, but an open framed version presents stability issues.

0450

The fore (lower) support sits ok beneath the fifth frame from the bow.

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The aft support fits best beneath the sixth frame from aft but requires some trimming to contact both the keel slot and the frame.

0451

Fairly easily done by siting the support behind the frame and marking the line. At this point the char has been removed but the

w-o-p finish will be deferred until the base is made.

As built by Chuck.

The provided base is nicely presented with a burr veneer top and engraved text.

I am keen to utilise this but as I wish to display the mast and spars with the model, I may need a longer sub- base to  accommodate them.

This can wait for the time being.

 

Grapnel 

The Longboat kit contains two grapnels which as with the Cheerful anchors  are supplied in wood.

 

I don’t have an issue with this and a realistic finish can be obtained with the use of weathering powders.

Even so the current trend is for Resin anchors, such as now supplied by Vanguard models, which will surely replace both metal and wooden versions in the fullness of time.

 

The Grapnel is nicely made but I did tweak it slightly adding a bevel down the shaft, a slight thinning of the arms, and a thinning of the palm edges.

 

A ring was made using 0.7mm wire chemically blackened.

 

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Vallejo Matt black paint was used for the colour followed by Dark Brown weathering powders.

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Moving onto the Masts and spars

 

B.E.

23/08/2024

 

 

 

 

[glbarlow]

I certainly know where to come for reference when I get around to my long boat. Well done!

[Blue Ensign]

Kind of you to say so Glenn, but I know your work remember, and I don't think you need any tips from me.

There are some quality builds for 'Medway' on here that have been well thumbed thro' by me.😊

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 38

Looking at Masting.

 

I am going to make up the mast and spars and even if I do not fit them on the boat, they will form part of the display.

I also quite enjoy making masts.

002

I begin with the Mast and I am using Boxwood cut from the same section as I used for the Windlass.

004

Something satisfying re-purposing old Boxwood, and seasoned English Box is hard to beat.

The first step is to mark up the stick for the start of the rounding process using the template kindly provided by Chuck.

 

This provides easy marking of the 7/10/7 ratio used for creating an initial octagon shape to ease subsequent rounding on the lathe.

007

I also make up a cradle board to support the stick during the cutting of the octagons.

009

The sheaves are transferred from the plan and drilled out on the mill.

012

Far easier to do with the stock still square, and now ready to form the octagon.

019

My Bullnose plane is my go to for the purpose, hand planing is such a very satisfying activity.

022

The actual process is fairly quick.

028

I have my Proxxon lathe permanently set up with the bed extension in place, just as well with this mast.

The distance between chuck and tailstock is 18½”

033

The diameter at the quarters up to the hounds is taken from the plan and marked on a gauge card to check progress as the turning progresses.

Time to make some dust.

035

Speaking of dust this fine Boxwood stuff is like gold, I always keep as much as I can, comes in very useful.

039

After around 2 hours the taper is becoming obvious, but still a way to go. I constantly re-mark and check the quarters.

048

Finishing off the Top section of the mast was a little fraught, I was concerned that as I tapered it towards the finish of 3.5mm ø it might break and given the length of the piece result in it whipping around on the lathe.

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I completed the finish off the lathe, and added the Truck.

 

B.E.

27/08/2024

[Blue Ensign]

Post 39

Making the display base

 

I had an initial look back in Post 37 but now seemed a good time to make up the base.

Assembly is straightforward after careful cleaning up of the char.

044

I did add three lateral wood strips beneath the base to counter any tendency for warp.

These also provide handy clamp points on the vice for the application of w-o-p.

041

The tricky part is the placing of the keel supports.

I made careful measurements with the boat in situ and marked these with Tamiya tape.

043

I decided to varnish the supports before fitting, and glue them into place before applying varnish to the veneer.

I was careful not to get any pva on the veneer surface.

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075

 

 

B.E. 

29/08/2024

[Blue Ensign]

Post 40

Thinking aloud - The question of rigging fittings, and what to do about the iron work.

 

I am thinking about whether to attach the rigging fittings to the boat in the absence of actually masting and rigging her.

 

We know that ships boats were all rigged for sailing as well as rowing, some with one, some with two masts, and a variety of sail plans.

 

The Medway Longboat is perhaps a rare exception of a contemporary model shown as rigged, most boat models and plans don’t have these details.

 

The fittings are quite simple, a couple of deadeye straps and ring supports for a bowsprit.

002a

 

003

The contemporary unrigged model does not have these fittings, apart from the Bowsprit ring at the stem, and the mast support clamp on the thwart. There is no indication of the location points where they would otherwise be fitted.

 

003(1)a

 

The deadeye straps would need to be firmly fixed, how was this done; presumably bolted to the side thro’ the wale; were they left insitu when the boat was being rowed or fitted as required? in that case surely the fixing points would be apparent.

 

It begs the question whether the 18^th century modelmaker had simply left these things off, but why not the hole thro’ the forward thwart when you’ve bothered to show the stem ring.

 

I have found no other contemporary models of boats that show deadeye fixings, and none of the complement of boats set on HMS Victory have any indication of fixing points for rigging.

 

I think I will certainly add the stem ring but am less certain about the deadeye straps which may spoil the lines without the masting and rigging in place.

 

The aft Bowsprit support ring also may look odd without the Bowsprit in place. It could of course be made and placed across the forward thwart.

 

Enough of these musings, I need to do it to see it.

 

 

B.E.

31/08/2024

 

Edited August 31 by Blue Ensign

[bartley]

BE,

This rigged version is also in the NMM

 

and as you suspect it shows the deadeye straps mounted on the wales.

 

Regards,

 

John

 

 

 

Edited September 2 by bartley

[Blue Ensign]

That's the puzzlement John, the deadeye set simply hooks into the straps, in fact all the rigging is designed for a quick set-up /take down.

It seems to me that the straps would be left in place, maybe angled flush with the capping rail when not in use.

They do not feature on boats set-up for rowing, either in art or models as far as I can see.

 

B.E.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 41

Bowsprit fixings (Part One)

 

With the unrigged version I need to adopt a different approach to that used by Chuck.

002a

As can be seen the stem ring hangs loose so the use of tape to simulate the ring is not an option. I would in any case opt for heat shrink tubing for this item.

 

I will use a brass ring silver soldered to the stem bar for the purpose but I first need to make up the Bowsprit to gauge the fit of the rings.

0102

For speed I did the turning using 5mm ø Ramin dowel.

086

For the ring I used 7mm ø Brass tubing for the Bowsprit stem support.

089

1/16^th" wide slices were taken from the tube.

The support bars for the rings were cut from 1/16^th" square section brass rod.

094

A pin was filed into one end to fit a small hole drilled into the rings before cutting.

04a

I noticed looking closely at the contemporary model that the aft Bowsprit support is of rectangular section rather than round which makes better sense.

098

I remade a square section ring for the aft support.

This shot shows the items after silver soldering but before cleaning up.

 

0100

With the fit to the Bowsprit established I can move onto the fitting of the ‘ironwork’.

 

B.E.

02/09/2024

 

[bartley]

8 hours ago, bartley said:

BE,

This rigged version is also in the NMM

 

and as you suspect it shows the deadeye straps mounted on the wales.

 

Regards,

 

John

 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

That's the puzzlement John, the deadeye set simply hooks into the straps, in fact all the rigging is designed for a quick set-up /take down.

It seems to me that the straps would be left in place, maybe angled flush with the capping rail when not in use.

They do not feature on boats set-up for rowing, either in art or models as far as I can see.

 

B.E.

 

 

Yes I see what you mean now, BE,  The whole issue of the must is hard to fathom.  Its too big to carry on the lonboat.  It must have been held on the sister ship only only installed if there was sufficient wind.  As you say the deadeyes are simply hooked to the chainplate.  I have never seen this before either

[Blue Ensign]

Post 42

Bowsprit fixings (Part Two)

 

Now comes the tricky bit - getting the aft support in the correct position and correct length, because the forward thwart must be drilled.

 

l approach this job with Chuck’s warning you only have one shot at this seared into my mind.😬

 

I can almost sense that index finger 🫵 pointing from across the big water.

A scary thought as I have already glued the thwart and knees in place.

 

With the Bowsprit temporarily held in place adjustments are made by degrees to both length and position of the shaft on the thwart.

0113

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I used a short length of rod and tape to determine where the thwart hole is to be drilled.

0160

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Note that the Bowsprit does not sit flush with the capping rail but has a slight downward angle created by the height of the aft support.

If it followed the capping rail it would have an upward angle.

 

0216

Love the sheer line on this model.

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I have decided to leave the aft support in place.

 

Getting close to completion now but there are some cosmetic flaws to be attended to and a few bits to make.

 

B.E.

02/09/2024

[BobG]

Very nicely done, BE. I remember that step being tricky to get just right as well.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 43 

Finishings - bits and pieces.

The rigged contemporary Longboat has an iron horse athwartships at the stern, along which the main sheet runs.

109crop

This sits below the Tiller which naturally begs the obvious question.

It is a question asked and discussed many times in this forum, but that is how the contemporary craftsman back in 1742 did it, so monkey see, monkey do.

The contemporary unrigged model does not include it, so I could dodge the issue and follow suit.

Still, I like such fittings on a model so I have included it.

A length of 1mm brass wire was used for the purpose.

0263

There is a slight round-up to the Horse.

 

The spar set is now complete.

The Boom is unusual in that it tapers from the centre both fore and aft. The taper is slightly less forward to a finished diameter of 4mm.

The Bowsprit and Gaff are straightforward to make turning and tapering on the wood lathe.

0252

I used Ramin dowel for the spars rather than the square stock Box I used for the mast.

0253

I will need to work out how to display the mast and spars off the model.

 

Mast step

Chuck has provided a pre-cut step as a simplification; one that I am happy to accept.

In practise the mast heel would have been located in the keelson.

I doubled up on the pieces as I thought it looked better than the single thickness.

0219

Positioning the step is another testy little exercise and I had left the thwart aft of the mast unfixed to aid this process.

I used a dummy mast stub to hold the step for position and I used tape to mark the lines and to prevent any glue spread.

0225

Small weights are used to ensure a good bond.

0239

The thwart aft of the mast is not properly positioned in this shot

 

As I’ve made the sticks might as well see how they look in position.

0234

It is very tempting to mast and rig her, but she does have quite a large footprint.

0233

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Not quite done yet.

  

B.E.

04/09/2024

[CiscoH]

Those are some nice close-up shots BE.  Looks just as good micro as macro.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Cisco, with w-i-p shots I just tend to use  my old Pentax Bridge, hand held, and not too  fussy about the light, as long as it shows clearly the detail I want to get over.

I take more care when setting up for the completion shots.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 44

A final fussing and faffing around the model, touch-ins here and there, and a final coat of w-o-p.

 

I have tried various combinations to display the mast and spars alongside the model but arrived at having the Mast and Boom on the display base, and the Bowsprit and Gaff onboard the boat.

This avoids having to have a wider display base which I don’t really want.

 

So, here are the completion photos.

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As with the Queen Ann Barge and Cheerful the ‘Medway’ Longboat has been a pleasure to build.

The combination of quality materials, excellent designs, and elements that test your ingenuity and skill provide a high level of build satisfaction.

 

Thank you, Chuck for the makings.

 

I do have a few more related photos that members may find of interest; I will add these in a separate post.

 

B.E.

06/09/2024.

[Chuck]

Lovely model. ....and a wonderful display.

[Thukydides]

Another wonderful model and as usual you present it very nicely.

[Blue Ensign]

And finally…..

Those familiar with my logs will know that I create a build photo book for my builds.

The one for the ‘Medway’ Longboat has just been received.

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Purely for my own satisfaction but it is nice to have a ‘hard copy’ recording one’s efforts.

 

One of the reasons I didn’t mast and rig her apart from space considerations is that I also have the Chuck designed Model Shipways Longboat at 1:48 scale, fully rigged.

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My eyes find it hard to believe the scale difference between 1:48 and 1:24 for basically the same boat, but I love the look of them both.

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I’m currently taking a break from ship modelling, for how long I don’t know.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

24/09/2024

 

[Ryland Craze]

Congratulations B.E. on finishing your Medway Longboat.  It turned out great.  The photos of the two different scale longboats are my favorites.  I have enjoyed following your build log.

[Ronald-V]

Congratulations on finishing! Another great build from your hands  

[Knocklouder]

Congratulations,  nicely done. And thank you so much for all your posts, your logs will inspire many new modelers, Thank you

 

Bob M.       

 

[gjdale]

Congratulations on yet another fine build B.E. I hope for our sake that your break from ship modelling isn’t too long!

[glbarlow]

Another great build. I’ve followed yours going back to Pegasus I think, they are all so wonderfully build and so fully documented. I really like the clever display for this one. I hope to see you back at it soon. 
 

 

[Freebird]

Awesome build and display B.E.! 
 

I also love that Corvette on the shelf behind you!

 

Best Regards …. Rick

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Guys,

Sitting in my office/workroom I am surrounded by eleven models (and there are another eight around the house)  not including those lying in ordinary in the loft.

This disjointed view around my office gives you the effect.

I can't imagine at the moment where I would put another, the desire is still there, but I will have to see how long that can be suppressed.🫤

 

Thanks again for the interest shown.

 

B.E.