Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"

[Roger Pellett]

Wooden ships “work.”  As the ship travels through waves, the uneven buoyancy causes the hull to flex.  With conventionally framed construction the frames made no contribution to to the longitudinal strength of the hull.  In the Nineteenth Century the use of diagonal iron strapping was an attempt to add longitudinal strength to large hills but of course this was three hundred years or so prior to Mary Rose.

 

As ships aged these longitudinal bending stresses affected planking fasteners allowing individual planks to slide relative to each other, working the caulking loose.  The repair would have been to caulk the seam and to nail the batten atop.  This problem existed to some degree into modern times until advanced adhesives allowed monocoque construction of wooden hulls. 

 

Roger

[Baker]

14 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Wooden ships “work.”  As the ship travels through waves, the uneven buoyancy causes the hull to flex.  With conventionally framed construction the frames made no contribution to to the longitudinal strength of the hull.  In the Nineteenth Century the use of diagonal iron strapping was an attempt to add longitudinal strength to large hills but of course this was three hundred years or so prior to Mary Rose.

 

As ships aged these longitudinal bending stresses affected planking fasteners allowing individual planks to slide relative to each other, working the caulking loose.  The repair would have been to caulk the seam and to nail the batten atop.  This problem existed to some degree into modern times until advanced adhesives allowed monocoque construction of wooden hulls. 

 

Roger

Thanks Roger.

Indeed.

The Mary Rose builders (rebuilders) were also working on this problem

 

[Baker]

The rear castle.

 

Not much is left of the original. So from here on, most becomes guesswork. The frames of sections 6,8,10 and the stern are used as a basis

The first test isn't too bad.

The stern in the drawing has an unnatural bend (personal opinion). That's why I'm going to deviate a bit towards the outside.

The first 4 frames have been placed. They are still too high and probably too thick. But these 4 must be long and sturdy enough as a basis for the rest
The intention now is to first provide more frames on this side of the model.

[GrandpaPhil]

Looking good!

[BANYAN]

That looks really good Baker.  That hull looks pretty spot on despite having to use some 'guesswork'.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[mtaylor]

Looking good and I'll keep my fingers crossed the rest goes well.  As for the over long frames... better too long than end up too short.

[Baker]

Thanks for the positive comments and likes.

Further with the reconstruction of the rear castle.

 

Sawing "beams" 

Preparation.

The first frames.

Take into account the cannon ports of the upper deck.

All frames have been placed. The drawings of the Mary Rose were followed for the approximately correct position.

The chaotic inside has also been cleaned up a bit.  (not exactly the same as the original, you won't see much of it later anyway).

The plywood pieces are the basis for the cabins.

Result

Next: port side

 

 

 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  One can always cut or trim off extra wood as needed, but its often troublesome to add back on.

[BANYAN]

5 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

One can always cut or trim off extra wood as needed, but its often troublesome to add back on.

Oh so true!

 

cheers

 

Pat

[druxey]

You don't have a wood stretcher in your workshop? Pity. Neither do I.

[Baker]

10 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  One can always cut or trim off extra wood as needed, but its often troublesome to add back on.

 

5 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Oh so true!

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

4 hours ago, druxey said:

You don't have a wood stretcher in your workshop? Pity. Neither do I.

A long time ago I sawed a plank too short.
I sawed off another piece of this plank, and it was too short again....🤪
 
Lesson learned 🫣

Haha
 

[Ab Hoving]

A remarkable and inspiring project Patrick, a pleasure to follow (now and then) :-).

Ab

[Baker]

Thanks Ab, this is much appreciated.

 

The further build up of the rear castle

Frames 6, 8 and 10 are laid out using the laser

All frames are in place

Started with the cannon ports

And planking of the stern

Some filler pieces are  first atteched

sawing...

On almost all drawings of the Antony roll a beam (wale) can be seen just below the opening for the tiller

Follow the drawing as much as possible

Result

An oops moment. Where there should be a hole for a cannon are frames.

Time to bring out the isopropyl alcohol. Soak off the glue of the framing and do it right

Thanks for following

 

[Louie da fly]

This is such a beautiful build and very inspiring. Magnificent work, Patrick!

 

Steven

[Baker]

Further planking of the rear castle.

I started with the part that was planked according to the clinker build method. These planks were not sawn but made from tree trunks that were split. length of the planks no longer than 2.70 meters

The first of these planks was tapered.

Above the tapered plank it is marked how high the upper plank may be

Further planking

And then there was a week's holiday in the sun, which was put to good use doing research .

Back home and continue planking. The intention is to have 6 layers of clinker build, in total I should end up with 9. Above that there will be shields.

That's why I first have to place the 2 dales, which determine the correct location of the upper deck in the rear castle

English lesson :

Dale.. old English word. The intention of these two dales is to drain the pumped water from the hold outside.
And if you have to pee....Do it in the dale (so their 2nd name : pisdale... 😳)

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  'Love your working drawings !

[Louie da fly]

Superb work, Patrick!

 

Steven

[druxey]

Looking excellent, Patrick.

[Baker]

Thanks everyone for the nice comments and the likes 👍

[Baker]

The two dales

Each is made of 3 pieces as a base
(bad photo, sorry)

A finished dale

Making the holes in the same place on both sides was a challenge.

While the glue from the dales is drying, work continues on the inside.

The support under each dale is fictional, and later virtually invisible. This gives the dale (as support for the deck) a slight curve

And looking 5 steps further in the future.
Checking the relationship between the sides of the castle, channel, mast and the schrouds of the main mast.

Oops, I'm going to get in trouble if i go further this way...
Noticed it just in time

[Baker]

First. The schrouds problem

Fortunately, cherry wood is very flexible and this can be easily solved. By stretching the frames towards each other.
This is something for later, if I do this now I won't have enough space to work in the rear castle.

 

Continued with determining the position of the decks.
And the "gun wale". On this beam were the swivel guns placed on the first version of the Mary Rose, on the current version only 3 would have remained.

Memory aid. Where is what 

Adjustment of the stern

The position of the 3 swivel guns

further surgery of the stern

Upper deck and castle deck determined. Upper castle still to do

current status

Thaks for following

[druxey]

Coming along nicely! I've noticed that a framed model tends to spread at the toptimbers until things are tied together by deck beams, etc. Glad you spotted this early enough to correct.

Edited March 24 by druxey

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  The close up views inside the stern castle make one realize the size and depth of the ship from a crewman's viewpoint ... and I can imagine the horror of being trapped down inside when she sank that fateful day ... much like the Vasa.

[Baker]

Continued with the planking on the rear castle.
Frames 6, 8 and 10, which served as the basis for the rear castle, were too thick and were therefore made thinner. 
I used the easy way, put the saw in and start sawing.

the stern is provided with the necessary holes for the tiller, etc.

The frames were too wide at the top and would cause problems later with the schrouds.
The simple way, tighten with an iron wire.

1.8cm less wide at the top, and "schroud test" ok 👍

The rear castle is now temporaly on hold.

Sanding the clinker planking and the interior is for later (outside the house...)

[Baker]

Next,

The further finishing of the cannon deck. And start building the basis for the  waist and the fore castle.

There is also a cabin at the front. The crew of the (optional) cannon has a lot of space again...
The sloping side of the cabin will later serve as a basis for a staircase

I run out of wood supplies. So the men from the sawmill were put to work (me...)
There is material of 3,4,5,6,7,8 and 9mm thickness back in stock.

Thanks for following

[Louie da fly]

You usual superb work, Patrick. I am continually gobsmacked by the quality of your modelling.

 

Steven

[Baker]

On 4/6/2024 at 8:18 AM, Louie da fly said:

gobsmacked

Thanks Steven.

Gobsmacked, a new word for me.

 Is this "Australian" English ?

 

 

[Ab Hoving]

Fantastic project Patrick, very well done!

[Louie da fly]

21 hours ago, Baker said:

Is this "Australian" English ?

Not really - it really comes from England - there's not an Australian equivalent that I can think of (not any that are suitable for a family forum, anyway). But I liked the sound of it, so I've adopted it as an "honorary" Australian term.

 

It means astounded, amazed and often also impressed, or even shocked. Flabbergasted.

 

Steven

 

PS: Your gob is your mouth, so it's as though you've been smacked in the mouth, that's how amazed you are.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  I thought that flummoxed or discombobulated were similar ... in the U.S. there is  "thrown for a loop",  "knocked over with a feather",  "mind boggling",  "hit me like a ton of bricks",  awestruck,  "stopped me in my tracks",  "made speechless",  thunderstruck,  dumbfounded, "set back on my heels",  "took the wind out of my sails",  "totally blew me away" ... or a favorite of mine - "turned my head like a one eyed dog in a meat factory".