Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - FINISHED - 1/32 - Fly

[DocRob]

It has been a while, since I was working on the Nachtigall, which I started 2019, but the kit, resting on the shelf was never forgotten. I need all my cojones to continue with it and after finishing some builds lately, I initially wanted to start the 1/32 HKM Do-335 B2, but then remembered the Arado. I love planes that may look quirky, but are so much ahead of their time engineering- and design wise, that they ultimately attract me, the more unusual the better. The Arado even beats the Pfeil in that subjective category and now, I hope I can pull the build through, having most of the difficult work already done.

 

If it's ok with the Admin's, I will copy the first post of my initial thread on Large Scale Modeler as an introduction, link the LSM-thread and continue it on both sites.

 

Cheers Rob

 

[DocRob]

Hola fellow Modelistas,
 

after some positive resonance in another thread, I will do a WIP about my build of the Fly Arado 234. I bought the kit some years ago and always had the itch to built it soon and as a nightfighter.B-2N version. Now, that ZM announced a new 234, I felt it is about time to build mine without being tempted to buy a new one. I call that, err, stash management .

I always had a soft spot for the sleek and slender silhouetted Arado jet. It's technical advantages, design and engineering makes it a standout. Generally I don't really much enjoy to build German subjects, but some are so fascinating, that I make an exception.
 

The kit looks great in the seemingly small box, the plastic is a little crude in spots and the amount of cleanup is a little higher, than with some of the usual suspects, but nothing to worry about. The resin parts are breathtaking in detail and seem to fit very good to the plastic. on some of the bigger parts it's not even necessary to remove the pouring stubs.

I will not bore you with a review, because James Hatch made a brilliant one on LSM. This is a different version of the 234, but all the main components are the same. 

1:32 Arado Ar 234B-2/S3 - Aircraft Reviews - Large Scale Modeller

 

There is not a lot of AM around and I will use the masks from Fly, seatbelts from HGW, a Neptun antler from Master and last but not least the Yahu Cockpit set, which is not a PE IP-board, but single bezels with dials. This is clever, as the kit provided ones are good and very visible and the different panels which consist of instruments are in various different places in the cockpit. The dials and bezels are printed in Colour and in a very shiny finish, and the manual recommends, that you cover some flat base on the bezels and keep the dials like they are in high gloss finish.
 

I also have the two Kagero monographs along, which show a lot of plans, renderings and pics, but unfortunately don't show the night fighter layout. An here is where the trouble starts. I have no idea, how the window of the operator in the back looks. Even the Fly box art of two different issues show a rectangle window on mine and a oval window on the actual version. If somebody can enlighten me, I will be pleased.
 

 

The Yahu set

 

Being a short run kit without locator pins test fitting is a lot and so I cleaned the mayor components and was positively surprise, be the seemingly good fit.

 

  

 

I decided to start with the surgery of the fuselage and canopy, because if I would have had a mayor fail here, there would have been no WIP.

First was the fuselage opening for the operator in the back. It is necessary to remove a rectangle part from the fuselage, to insert the provided clear part. I used dynotape for the borders and cut with a saw and scalpels.

After a little sanding it looks like this.

 

And here is a little preview of what's in the fuselage. The backward facing place of the operator is supplied in resin parts, which seem to fit without cutting and grinding, splendid.
I only cut the cast block of the backward bulkhead, only to get the opening in it into the fuselage.

 

The second area of surgery was the canopy and it proved to be not too easy. you have to drill elliptical holes for the struts which carry the Neptun radar. Boy, how I hate to drill, grind and cut into clear parts. I used the measurements in the manual and copied them onto Kabuki tape onto the canopy. Then I drilled and grinded. You have to be precise while doing it, anticipating the angle of the struts.

 

The result looks like this. The upper struts are a bit to much to the back, but I hope, I can arrange the struts properly, because filling and drilling again is no option. I did all these surgeries, before applying a coat of Future to the cockpit, which hopefully enhances the clearness and makes applying the provided decals trouble free. Like James, I firstly wanted to open the front and rear canopy, but after the drilling job, I'm not that sure anymore. While cutting the fuselage with the dynotape, I noticed black residues after removing the tape, a killer for a clear canopy. So for now, the bird will stay closed up.

That's where I am now, reading my books about the 234. Be warned, that will not be a fast build, because there are others in line and I will do it proper.

 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

If you followed me until this point, I may can interest you into the process of the build, which was not without difficulties and can be read here.

 

Arado 234 Nachtigall on Speed - LSM 1/35 and Larger Work In Progress - Large Scale Modeller

 

After evaluating, what I had done, re-reading my LSM thread to catch up, I wanted to close the canopy now and started to add detail to the cockpit and bezeled and wired the instrument panel with the Yahu PE parts, which are cleverly done. The manual calls for 1mm pre drilling, where the dials should go and the backside of the dials has a protrusion, to place them. The bezels have a little nub for aiding the placement, which has it's counterpart on the dial. This way, you can be sure, the instruments are orientated correct.

 

 

 

Cheers Rob

[ccoyle]

Interesting that there is a plastic kit company called Fly, seeing that there is also a Polish card model publisher going by the same name.

[Egilman]

5 hours ago, DocRob said:

I also have the two Kagero monographs along, which show a lot of plans, renderings and pics, but unfortunately don't show the night fighter layout. An here is where the trouble starts. I have no idea, how the window of the operator in the back looks. Even the Fly box art of two different issues show a rectangle window on mine and a oval window on the actual version. If somebody can enlighten me, I will be pleased.

Unfortunately brother, there is literally no period photos of that specific aircraft version much less pics of the radar operators compartment.... There are a few pics of the nose radar antenna's configuration though...

 

There is only one AR 234 in existence today in the Smithsonian's collection, (currently undergoing restoration) but it is a B2 bomber variant without the night fighter equipment... I will say this, the panel they removed for the radar operators canopy is square with radiused corners... I have seen a pic of this opening in one of the books on the 234 line... (an AR 234 B2 that was one of 4 that came to the US for flight testing and turned over to the Navy and eventually scrapped)

 

Most of the imagery of the aircraft are artists renditions... (do not know how much artists license was applied to them) and the model companies are all over the map on this particular detail... (the Revell 1/48 scale production doesn't even have the radar operators station nor its canopy)....

 

What I would say it is is probably square with rounded corners, the canopy would be made to fit the panel that they removed to install the station in the first place... but that is an educated guess as I have been unable to find any real proof of this...

 

Sorry...

 

Edited May 13, 2023 by Egilman

[DocRob]

14 hours ago, ccoyle said:

Interesting that there is a plastic kit company called Fly, seeing that there is also a Polish card model publisher going by the same name.

 

Fly is a Czech company producing a wide array of kits mostly in plastic, but with added resin and PE. Their models tend to be a bit off the trotten paths, which is very refreshing, but often not so easy to build with the short run technique used.

 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

10 hours ago, Egilman said:

Unfortunately brother, there is literally no period photos of that specific aircraft version much less pics of the radar operators compartment.... There are a few pics of the nose radar antenna's configuration though...

 

Thank you for your thoughts Egilman, I know the Nachtigall is almost as rare as the Caudron, I built with only a few being altered from -B2 to the -B2N version.

My sources leave me to think that four to five Nachtigall Arados were built and flight. The Kagero book states firstly there were two converted from the reconnaissance version. Later one of those crashed and three (more?) formed a unit which tried to hunt Mosquitos, but without success.
Generally the suitability to the nightfighter role was put into question by the pilots, because of lots of light refractions in the huge canopy and the lack of frontal armor.
The specific layout of these B2N are highly obscured and every kit and every illustration shows another interpretation of the bird. Questionable areas are mainly the rear station, the Naxos antennae, the radar and the gun pod.

 

The kit supplies a clear part for the radar station of the aft cockpit, with an engraved oval opening. The hatch engraving is out of the middle and too small for an entry hatch to my eye.

 

If nobody knows the truth, you can go freestyling and that is what I did. I widened and squared the opening and after painting, I will add the hatch, which I assume would have been locked in place with some handles and without hinges.

 

 

The only picture of the real thing, which showed up during my build over on LSM, was a tiny facsimile of the rear hatch, which is very blurry. I was not able to find the publication, where it was published. I know, it's more oval than mine, but I can live with that.

 

Cheers Rob

[Egilman]

2 hours ago, DocRob said:

...formed a unit which tried to hunt Mosquitos, but without success.

Yeah they tried, but loaded down with the guns and radar equipment it couldn't get up the speed to do what night fighters did... Typhoons and Tempests could easily overtake it, Mustangs & Mosquito's could keep pace with it... As a bomber if the pilot was careful, they couldn't be touched...  The 4 engine "C" model was another subject altogether though, it could out fly the Me 262, easily....

 

It was the first jet bomber, as as such I guess it was a success, the first raid they went on was against one of the forward allied airbases, they all returned with only one receiving minor damage... The pilots attributed it to the speed of the aircraft... The ground gunners attributed it to their low altitude, sub 1,000 foot approach.... (which is the correct interpretation if you know the capabilities of the radar they were using) German bombers learned very quickly to stay away from US airdromes above a certain altitude, the radar guided, 90mm AA was absolutely murderous....

[Canute]

Interesting variant of this jet. The Radar Intercept Officer (RIO) really worked in a pit and flew backwards. That has to affect the RIO's visualization of an engagement. I'll tag along on this build.😄

[CDW]

Looking forward to this fascinating project aircraft.

[DocRob]

17 hours ago, Canute said:

Interesting variant of this jet. The Radar Intercept Officer (RIO) really worked in a pit and flew backwards. That has to affect the RIO's visualization of an engagement. I'll tag along on this build.😄

Good to have you here Ken. The backward facing operator was a common design with German night fighters, like it had been done in the He-219. With the Uhu, it might have been space issues, keeping the radar equipment behind the operator and not between pilot and operator. With the Arado, I don't know, why they have chosen this layout.

 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

5 hours ago, CDW said:

Looking forward to this fascinating project aircraft.

 

Thanks, the next steps will determine the fate of the build. Closing the canopy is very delicate with a lot of stuff going in. I also made an error, right in the beginning, drilling the holes for the FUG's antennae posts to far to the rear on the upper canopy half and I hope, I find a good antennae alignment, but not the correct one. There is no way of filling and re drilling in the clear part. If I ever build another Arado 234 (quite possible), it will be a one seater for sure.

 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

21 hours ago, Egilman said:

Yeah they tried, but loaded down with the guns and radar equipment it couldn't get up the speed to do what night fighters did... Typhoons and Tempests could easily overtake it, Mustangs & Mosquito's could keep pace with it... As a bomber if the pilot was careful, they couldn't be touched...  The 4 engine "C" model was another subject altogether though, it could out fly the Me 262, easily....

 

It was the first jet bomber, as as such I guess it was a success, the first raid they went on was against one of the forward allied airbases, they all returned with only one receiving minor damage... The pilots attributed it to the speed of the aircraft... The ground gunners attributed it to their low altitude, sub 1,000 foot approach.... (which is the correct interpretation if you know the capabilities of the radar they were using) German bombers learned very quickly to stay away from US airdromes above a certain altitude, the radar guided, 90mm AA was absolutely murderous....

 

Th Arado was also a great reconnaissance airplane, being able to fly very high and having less engine vibrations, than prop driven planes. It was a very steady camera base and delivered pictures of unmatched sharpness.

 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

I managed to get some of the hard stuff done. I'm never to keen about gluing parts into canopies, but here it's a bit more than the odd rearview mirror and it's a mix of materials, plastic, resin and PE. The canopy was bathed in Pledge before masking, a long time ago and my recent glue tests showed, that there is no fogging with my CA and Tamiya cement. I somehow fiddled in the IP and the IP framing, after I installed the base strips for the antler struts. It was not easy to align the parts without smearing glue somewhere on the inside of the canopy, but I think, I got it done. The IP got two shim parts made from styrene, where they meet the canopy for a larger gluing surface. 
Now I let that dry until tomorrow and then will attach the lower struts of the IP framing and make some touch ups.

 

Cheers Rob

 

[DocRob]

Slowly progressing with the cockpit. After finally gluing in the instrument panels struts, I added the struts for the FUG antennas and hope they are more or less correct aligned. Not an easy job, because the cockpit is slightly tilted to the front and you have only the curved canopy shapes for orientation. 
I finally made some touchups and let some Pledge run around the drilled holes in the clear cockpit parts. Next will be final masking and then the canopy will be glued in place, first the upper half, then stowing the cables and then the lower half.

 

Cheers Rob

 

 

[Javlin]

Oh the joys of masking!!

[DocRob]

15 hours ago, Javlin said:

Oh the joys of masking!!

 

The masking was done a long time ago and I have to say, it was maybe the easiest part of this build .

 

Cheers Rob

[DocRob]

I took all my guts and glued the canopy shut, first the lower half, followed bey the upper glasshouse. I used Tamiya cement and after the glue had settled, ran Revell Contacta Clear over the seams three times for filling and sealing. The radio operator compartment was closed as well and received the same treatment.

 

 

 

Cheers Rob

[CDW]

Very nice join there.

[CDW]

When you have the time to do it, go up on YouTube and look up "Greg's Models" channel. He's what I call an old-school modeler. Does some fantastic work IMO. His handling of canopy glass-work joins to his models is masterful. Also, there is a member of this forum whose name now escapes me, he too has a large number of YouTube videos on plastic modeling (as well as other types) where his handling of clear plastic is extraordinary. Both these fellows share a common trait, they both aggressively go after a near-perfect fit of the glass to fuselage with some careful buffing, polishing and masking at the end. Their instructional videos are very much worth watching. 

 

Greg's Models - YouTube

Edited May 17, 2023 by CDW

[DocRob]

21 hours ago, CDW said:

Very nice join there.

Thank you Craig, it's not the nicest of joins, but I guess painted and maybe decaled it will look ok. Decaled means, Fly provided strips of decal with bolt detail to apply over the canopy framing. I'm not finally decided, if  I use these.

 

I will look for the videos you recommended. Sometimes I watch modeling related footage during building sessions. I never spent so much time around clear parts with cutting, sanding, drilling, filling masking, gluing in parts of different materials, ... The cockpit is indeed the focal point of the Arado.

 

Cheers Rob

 

[DocRob]

The thing got wings finally and it's tail. Fit is good so far, but a little filling will be needed at the wingroots. The Arado is a big kite and one of the main goals until the finish is not to knock off the protruding FUG antenna posts. She will not be a tail sitter, my glued in weight was sufficient.

 

Cheers Rob

 

[Canute]

Coming along nicely, Rob.

[DocRob]

On 5/18/2023 at 1:05 PM, Canute said:

Coming along nicely, Rob.

 

Thank you Ken.
 

Meanwhile, there is some detail work to be done. I added the PE hinges to the wheel doors and the breaking parachute release mechanism to the fuselage, where I used 0,55 mm brass rod instead of the supplied thread.

 

Cheers Rob

 

[DocRob]

I masked wheel wells, engines and the canopy with sponges, tape and liquid mask and gave the Arado a rub with an alcohol soaked cloth. I paid a lot of attention to seal the canopy section air tight with liquid mask and with filling the gaps before with Revell Clear, because I hope to hinder the inside of the canopy from fogging due to thinner fumes.

Prime (er) time - I applied Mr. Surfacer 1200, which sprayed very well as always.

 

 

 

After drying, I sprayed the canopy section gloss black, to accept the riveted decal strips for the framing, if I decide to use them.

 

 

Now I have to check, where I have to further work on the surfaces, be it filling or scribing. Meanwhile I sprayed other parts like the Rato rockets and their parachutes, external fuel tanks and the parts for the landing gear, which will be detailed with chrome oleos and braking lines next.

 

Cheers Rob 

 

[DocRob]

While I'm still waiting for the 1ManArmy masks to arrive, I decided to do a little detail work and gave some love to the wheel struts. 
The oleos where covered with AK's chrome adhesive tape, but as this is a bit stiff, Bare Metal foil would have been the better choice. My Arado 234 Monographs show the braking lines partly yellow and black, so I used my braided 0,5 mm Anyz line for the purpose along with Anyz resin connectors. The yellow line was soaked in Pledge, because otherwise it would have been to bright and have spots, where the CA stuck.
The clamping strips were made from pre cut Bare Metal foil of 0,5 mm width, secured with some drops of Pledge. After drying, I will rub in some steel pigments and add some shadows and highlighting.
 

Cheers Rob

 

[DocRob]

Still no masks at hand, spring can be awful here. It's the worst weather of the year, normally and every second day is a holiday, so no working customs, no working mail.
Meanwhile, I painted the wheels with my usual workflow, spraying the hubs first, in this case semi matte black, then mask the hubs and spray the tires. Here I used Nato Black as a base and then sprayed the flanks with some drops of Field Blue in the Nato black. Last step are pigments in a concrete tone rubbed in for enhancing contrasts and simulating abrasion and dirt. Some details were picked out by brush on the hubs.
The kit wheels look especially good, it's strange, how different the quality of the plastic parts is in this kit.

 

 

Next were the parachute packs for the Ratos jets. I sprayed everything in RLM 22, masked the belts off and used Buff for the remainder. The ropes were painted by brush and then I rubbed in some concrete pigments.

 

 

Cheers Rob

[CDW]

47 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Still no masks at hand, spring can be awful here. It's the worst weather of the year, normally and every second day is a holiday, so no working customs, no working mail.
Meanwhile, I painted the wheels with my usual workflow, spraying the hubs first, in this case semi matte black, then mask the hubs and spray the tires. Here I used Nato Black as a base and then sprayed the flanks with some drops of Field Blue in the Nato black. Last step are pigments in a concrete tone rubbed in for enhancing contrasts and simulating abrasion and dirt. Some details were picked out by brush on the hubs.
The kit wheels look especially good, it's strange, how different the quality of the plastic parts is in this kit.

 

 

Next were the parachute packs for the Ratos jets. I sprayed everything in RLM 22, masked the belts off and used Buff for the remainder. The ropes were painted by brush and then I rubbed in some concrete pigments.

 

 

Cheers Rob

Outstanding. Small details carefully done as you've displayed here make all the difference in a finished model and help it "pop". Great work, Rob.

[DocRob]

3 hours ago, CDW said:

Outstanding. Small details carefully done as you've displayed here make all the difference in a finished model and help it "pop". Great work, Rob.

Thank you Craig, I think with the sleek and huge Arado, it's a good idea to enhance some detail areas, to let the eye wander. I guess, that's what you mean by 'pop'. I like to replicate materials out of the plastic, that don't look plastic anymore. It's one of the keys which drives me in modelling.

 

Cheers Rob

[CDW]

12 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Thank you Craig, I think with the sleek and huge Arado, it's a good idea to enhance some detail areas, to let the eye wander. I guess, that's what you mean by 'pop'. I like to replicate materials out of the plastic, that don't look plastic anymore. It's one of the keys which drives me in modelling.

 

Cheers Rob

Pop is an expression that means, to catch the eye and/or to call attention to detail. Yes, to make the eyes wander is a great way to put it.