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Posted

What is the size of these frames?  I know they are all laser-etched in the wood by CAF but can't tell dimensions. I'm guessing that each of these frames are 1/8" thick? And looks like 3/16" wide?

Posted

Frames are 3 mm thick and from 5 to 6 mm wide, depending of their positions in the hull. CAF is a Chinese company and as such uses the metric system.

 

Yves

Posted

Looks like a great kit Yves.  That berthing box is such a great idea!  Looking forward to following along!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

Wow. I'd never really thought about CAF until I saw this. It looks like an incredible kit. Will be following!

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - 

On Hold - HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

Posted
17 hours ago, Trussben said:

Did you do any fairing to that frame yet?
 

That frame may need pre-fairing on the outer sides so as to fit in the jig correctly, especially true around the far extremes fore and aft.

Very true. I have not done any "detailed" fairing yet. Yes, there will be a lot of sanding required on that kit. If you do not like sanding and adjusting, then this is not a kit for you 🙂

 

Yves

Posted (edited)

This past weekend I worked on the bow and got very confused at the beginning. The instructions are showing this:

 

Screenshot2024-11-18095628.jpg.143a0aa6c32ae9cc05f1fa1ae8db4224.jpg

 

I tried the assembly C1-C5 in all directions but it would not fit in the cradle or on the keel. Then I started looking into the Monograph and CAF plans:

 

PB180041.thumb.JPG.1bb3b621254f34cfbdabb69c348e8d4c.JPG

 

PB180039.thumb.JPG.985612ee0e6d0136b07f290e0bbccdbe.JPG

 

And it made much more sense. C1-C5 is just a jig and is not part of the ship. As a matter of fact, that jig is useless and if you glue carefully Frames A to H and 01, on top of each other, following carefully the laser marks, you end up with a very good result:

 

PB160032.thumb.JPG.d76fc79892c30c32b6227dadf12f1ce6.JPG

 

PB160033.thumb.JPG.75dc73d86aee60dedf03f4b1de8a0aca.JPG

 

Below, you can see the assembly with the jig inserted underneath:

 

PB160034.thumb.JPG.7610ea4e75e6635c334d5a5347a571a2.JPG

 

A lot (and I say a LOT) of sanding is required to come up with a decent shape that fits tightly in the keel and slide into the cradle accordingly.

 

PB180035.thumb.JPG.39a69c2e622e42663badf49b21c8e031.JPG

 

I like the slight separation of the frames, as it brings more depth and realism to the model. Most bows I have seen on the Internet look like a big block of wood perfectly shaped, which would not have been like the real ship.

 

PB180036.thumb.JPG.18dc4e1d44f66da0d56723713ace9e51.JPG

 

PB180037.thumb.JPG.f4b10622866bf97a28d431cc13e221d8.JPG

 

Inside fairing was also done to a certain extent:

 

PB180038.thumb.JPG.bd20c445e820dabb88de667e56ddb6f7.JPG

 

Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
Posted

Major point of no-return.... The bow assembly has been glued to the keel:

 

PB190034.thumb.JPG.ce799c71b20d8196fc0f98f8fee6f29d.JPG

 

PB190035.thumb.JPG.2d610874735e262d31467aff94af48ec.JPG

 

PB190037.thumb.JPG.0925085988db0d6da89b6922cdccf9c1.JPG

 

When reaching that stage, the only thing left is to place the keel/bow assembly in the cradle and start assembling the numerous frames:

 

Screenshot2024-11-19082901.jpg.340d87db39e4c2fd5a3ff67ca18d5646.jpg

 

PB190038.thumb.JPG.0a185ed55b6972f996fe9a2f65417653.JPG

 

PB190039.thumb.JPG.8f8c5915dac183d42eca48499946e56a.JPG

 

PB190040.thumb.JPG.7a5f7f9a1362181a504601597d805252.JPG

 

PB190041.thumb.JPG.62b5bdec53378112c476119fd71cebd5.JPG

 

At this stage, pulling out the keel is still very easy. Once the frames are installed and glued to the keel, it will be another story....

 

Yves

Posted (edited)

The tedious and repetitive assembly of the frames has started. I have decided to populate first, the "easy" frames located in the middle of the hull. These do not require any fairing, for the most part and are composed of only three parts. Bow and stern will be kept for the end as they are significantly more advanced and delicate.

 

Frames #30 to #40 are now completed and ....glued to the keel:

 

PB210034.thumb.JPG.67a21176c72b14dae883a16f4079a264.JPG

 

PB210035.thumb.JPG.b0ac9cc34be59c4fa0807d89d8c8e652.JPG

 

PB210036.thumb.JPG.caf8791b1cf20f943e52641e6ab83280.JPG

 

PB210037.thumb.JPG.8b98982023e7b7ec67fdaf73d80ee628.JPG

 

The next series will be #41 to #50. I have started using a DREMEL equipped with a round abrasive head, after loosing a good chunk of skin on my fingers....due to sand paper abrasion. It really helps.

 

Yves

 

Edited by yvesvidal
Posted

I don't know if this would help, but 've been hearing on sites like this of people using foam blocks and even pool noodles as sanding blocks to assist as well as relieve hands. Keep up this beautiful model.

 

Brian D :)

Posted (edited)

I just completed frames #50 to #41. The ship is now equipped with all the "easy" frames.

 

PB240042.thumb.JPG.781f33875eb6e2976960c0a31c30ce88.JPG

 

My faithful and precious Dremel: priceless to remove all the charring on the parts:

 

PB240043.thumb.JPG.62d2faa7ddab649075a08cebf2d54cfe.JPG

 

#30 to #50 completed and glued in place, against the inner keel:

 

PB250044.thumb.JPG.62bccdfe806df680baad839583ed8902.JPG

 

PB250045.thumb.JPG.15ed9daf99553010468ebfddff0e466d.JPG

 

PB250046.thumb.JPG.6b5e8518458f4c6d1ae1b7aebcb6b088.JPG

 

The center of the ship:

 

Screenshot2024-11-25095330.jpg.53bf91fa931095503381e2fd54de4cc1.jpg

 

PB250047.thumb.JPG.bd28137f3b84779efb0d4f1b6e302f35.JPG

 

No more than 66 frames to go....

 

Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
Posted

I am now working on Frames #20 to #29. Most frames are made of 5 parts and the instructions below, explain what has to take place:

 

Screenshot2024-11-25095612.jpg.9914958c530fb4ac3492783735f1187d.jpg

 

When building the frames, one has to always keep in mind which way they are fitting on the keel, before fairing them. Easier said than done.

 

Screenshot2024-11-25095657.jpg.74a7ec22ad4bc4408ca2f186ec85ac3d.jpg

 

Yves

Posted

It really is such an extraordinary kit! I'm feeling very tempted to try but will finish what I have on the bench first.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - 

On Hold - HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

Posted

I also am tempted about this kit, once I finish the Eagle which will be a long way out. Interesting that having you sand the ribs off the building jig when I would think the board would be more protecting.  Would definitely have to proceed cautiously sanding those frail ribs.

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, bdgiantman2 said:

I also am tempted about this kit, once I finish the Eagle which will be a long way out. Interesting that having you sand the ribs off the building jig when I would think the board would be more protecting.  Would definitely have to proceed cautiously sanding those frail ribs.

You really have to sand the ribs as much as possible, before inserting them in the building jig. Multiple reasons for that:

  • Fairing internally and externally must be done ahead of time, because the internal planking will be glued when the hull is inside the jig.
  • For the frames to be extracted from the jig, they must be slightly smaller/less thick and well polished/sanded so that they can slide out without breaking.

I noticed that oiling and waxing them before gluing them, helps tremendously. I still suspect that extracting the spine and frames from the jig is going to be nerve wracking. I think I will insert some kind of crowbar from below and push up the keel very gently. Right now, with about 30 frames in, it is still possible to move it a tad.

 

Finally, the hull is not planked on the outside, with the exception of a plank or two. The goal is to show the skeleton of the ship.

I need to check with Tom, when is the ideal and safest step to take the hull out of the jig. This is not clear in the instructions.

 

Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
Posted (edited)

Since there were some interests and concerns about building the frames, here is the step by step approach I am taking.

Let's focus on Frame #15, which is one of the delicate and more complicated to build:

 

PB270037.thumb.JPG.384f8648153cbc04e7b01c2a5b768875.JPG

 

PB270038.thumb.JPG.e4ed65daef496fcae38a2ec7843ed71f.JPG

 

After removing the five pieces that make #15, the following central parts are glued:

 

PB270039.thumb.JPG.ef77f7b5bce6975f0b2cf8d816f03dec.JPG

 

The long ribs are then carefully sanded using a Dremel, a semi-round file and some sandpaper:

 

PB270040.thumb.JPG.c4baa71d6f75aa205e621cd78bd382b4.JPG

 

The center piece (there must be a technical term for that...) is not touched yet, besides sanding and opening the slot to make sure it fits on the keel, smoothly but tightly.

 

PB270041.thumb.JPG.0ea35609ab2f7291b2c746af7a237232.JPG

 

Fairing of the long ribs must be done on the external side and also on the internal side. Thinking and visualizing how the ribs will fit is paramount.

 

Then glue (Titebond will give you time to adjust the parts in situ) the two long ribs to the center piece and place it in the jig, on the keel:

 

PB270042.thumb.JPG.f64c190ea698a88f1d79ffeb51cafb33.JPG

 

PB270043.thumb.JPG.c7cee23e000070362ee83a9ddf4fccea.JPG

 

You can see that the fairing done on the outside, allows the frame to fit perfectly in the jig. Small clamps are used to hold the parts during drying.

 

PB270044.thumb.JPG.7086eac6fdb93055d35a4768841fce97.JPG

 

PB270045.thumb.JPG.16a93e10f592b0aec6874470b1f14f09.JPG

 

Lots of verification to make sure that everything fits nicely. When dry, remove the frame from the jig:

 

PB280046.thumb.JPG.9c1ddf7f1ab1b4de9727ecddcdab361f.JPG

 

Now is the time to sand and polish the center part. When done, another verification in situ:

 

PB280047.thumb.JPG.7008865ac7dd5fbd1db1a5956fbc1a94.JPG

 

PB280048.thumb.JPG.9397f5dd4bfa3788857209707373ce08.JPG

 

The frame can now be oiled and waxed, using my favorite Howard mixture:

 

PB280049.thumb.JPG.5038a8abdf6df39aea5434e4019a2dc2.JPG

 

Once all the lints has been removed and when the part is dry, it can be inserted back into the jig, before the final gluing to the keel:

 

PB280050.thumb.JPG.2c2b59628ab300ed8dcaf6106eefc72e.JPG

 

PB280051.thumb.JPG.66dea09ac1ad7311258da8afa7bf8833.JPG

 

PB280052.thumb.JPG.69ad931ce641cf4f6cc4153e50bec84a.JPG

 

PB280053.thumb.JPG.c1f7eb2285a39f1fb867f5a2ae5dda68.JPG

 

Now, redo the same for Frame #14.

 

Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
Posted

Frames #10 to #19 are now completed:

 

PB290034.thumb.JPG.d22c98ea3c30b19e7c62e2468a3877ac.JPG

 

Dry-fitting first:

 

PB290035.thumb.JPG.464efaf75918186a3bbd8d77ed7256bc.JPG

 

PB290036.thumb.JPG.80531c1a519daf54de1ed027def9795e.JPG

 

One frame is not exactly aligned with the rest.... #17. It will comply later on....

 

PB290037.thumb.JPG.d77a8da851e9817dd9e63964b834b132.JPG

 

PB290038.thumb.JPG.52b0d1bc13b9f5cf6fa8c3d4de47316b.JPG

 

Finally, we pull the tube of glue (Titebond):

 

PB290039.thumb.JPG.a21e9a8fd3b2fe9a17be6bcbaf0d7655.JPG

 

PB290040.thumb.JPG.5f1e932dc2364f56a0bf12edd0b6a88b.JPG

 

PB290041.thumb.JPG.f95dd065d296390e21546ca3ccf2a1e5.JPG

 

Next will be Frames #9 to #1.... The most difficult ones !!!

 

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

 

Yves

Posted

Frames #2 to #9 have been built. They are by far, the most difficult and delicate to install. There is a lot of sanding that takes place to fair them externally and internally and the insertion on the keel requires a lot of delicate sanding and numerous attempts.

 

PC030026.thumb.JPG.368182f890334cacb223565cc117beb1.JPG

 

The CAF Model kit is very close to the Monograph and did not take the short cuts seen on the ZHL kits, which simply place each frame in a slot. The picture below shows what I mean:

 

PC030027.thumb.JPG.369d3777797aae1f18e3cb4a81ea3ca5.JPG

 

The frames are ready to install. Because of the severely restricted space, you need to build one frame at a time and make sure it fits perfectly. No gluing must take place at this stage.

 

PC030028.thumb.JPG.431a4c1619da33fe1a389674c205be05.JPG

 

Then, when all frames are ready, I find it easier to glue #2 first and go to #9, one at a time.

 

PC030029.thumb.JPG.fe30ff2fb4979d68eab090a41217538f.JPG

 

PC030030.thumb.JPG.66b2f44c4f61fac0ac50141b1c93d7a3.JPG

 

Above, Frames #2 and #3 have been glued. I use CA glue, since it is not practical to use Titebond at this location.

 

PC030031.thumb.JPG.5fa1bdb8a52e0abaf22d12ef1bad98c3.JPG

 

Above, three more frames to go..... And it is over for the front:

 

PC030032.thumb.JPG.e598ddaa8dec04e9cea0fb8be9de4d1e.JPG

 

PC030033.thumb.JPG.8a227e30337b35fd629ac19e0cb0e7af.JPG

 

At this stage, a good half of the frames have been installed (#1 to #50). We will encounter some difficult frames again, when moving to the stern.

 

PC030034.thumb.JPG.f4127e571202dc09a16f30eb6fba7d7d.JPG

 

Yves

 

Posted

A very cool looking model! And nice work, Yves!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

A little update, still working on the frames. It seems endless....

 

Frames #51 to #60 have been built. These frames are still part of what can be considered "easy frames" as they do not require very much of a fairing (inside and outside) and are composed of only three parts.

 

PC110028.thumb.JPG.b1ecd9209560b66ade021267115bf09b.JPG

 

At this point, Frames #1 to #60 have been installed and glued on the keel:

 

PC110029.thumb.JPG.a44701575cc726d85d291744c46e2bf9.JPG

 

PC110030.thumb.JPG.d94fb5aac5c40a133577e4c0f75077f6.JPG

 

PC110031.thumb.JPG.2b16fcfc40cd4fbef3069272b60c1d29.JPG

 

I also dry-fitted the keelson.

 

Yves

Posted

wow, sorry i missed the start of your build, will be following, and asking silly questions, - good luck

Posted

Frames #61 to #70 have been completed. These are a lot more difficult and do require to be taken as a little project, one at a time. Consulting the plan and the Monograph helps tremendously, as well as creating a routine and sticking to it. All frames are made of cherry wood and finely sanded, oiled and waxed.

 

PC130026.thumb.JPG.43dedd6e77451c908b25b1c4f7204ceb.JPG

 

The most delicate was #66, composed of 5 parts and rather difficult to fit it into the cradle:

 

PC130027.thumb.JPG.8265377d5f0f11d371beea4b578094ec.JPG

 

All the new frames are being dry fitted. No glue yet.

 

PC130028.thumb.JPG.730bc85a42c2692781925cbe8a6ccfc7.JPG

 

Just 18 more to go.....

 

PC130029.thumb.JPG.435f3bcc34468c3c22e8aba5b1a47ace.JPG

 

PC130030.thumb.JPG.c15bbd29e9b67f05674b2f769e64ac98.JPG

 

PC130031.thumb.JPG.6351fd285d9b621c32f11ed3a39d2074.JPG

 

PC130032.thumb.JPG.b9b8e13b7c5167c047f5c9b3ac6ca050.JPG

 

Last segment of the keelson is not glued yet.

 

Yves

 

 

Posted

You work with incredible speed, Yves! She's coming along nicely!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

Posted

After studying the instructions (there are none) and the plans mainly, I decided to steer my attention to the stern. Instead of building Frames #71 to #80, I concentrated on the very last frames indicated by the plan and the Monograph. The reason is the lack of space, if you decide to glue the frames located before #80. The reasoning and the same approach were also used for the bow.

 

There is a rather complex assembly taking place between Frame #84 and Frame #M. The three frames must be part of the same set and must fit perfectly on the stern keel.

 

PC160026.thumb.JPG.42a8307abc3fa99222f8b52d47055948.JPG

 

As usual, the first step is to fit the frame footing on the keel, after using my Dremel to start fairing the frame.

 

PC160027.thumb.JPG.6843b2ea3e01a8f9dbe4e6acbb4c2d4c.JPG

 

Verification that it fits well on the keel. Then the sides are glued in position, in the cradle. The same is done for the following Frame "J".

Finally, the intermediate parts are glued (after some fairing) and the two frames are positioned and glued together:

 

PC160029.thumb.JPG.7841f71f110c1b1c729f0968efe2a572.JPG

 

It is all extremely delicate and I am not even sure this assembly will look okay with the rest of the hull and frames.

 

The third frames "M" is glued as well without forgetting the intermediate parts and set in position as described above. We end up with something that looks like the picture below:

 

PC170030.thumb.JPG.117a080b6bd9a772147bb78f5883a959.JPG

 

It is all extremely delicate and the two openings for the guns must be carefully carved on each side.

 

PC170031.thumb.JPG.86a869a9409e46804056b7c9f4e7720d.JPG

 

PC170032.thumb.JPG.e0c3639bee7f398cbe80bba1f2bafda5.JPG

 

PC170033.thumb.JPG.ac2355d54a67cd7dd4983d15580f8ba5.JPG

 

PC170034.thumb.JPG.3847ed7e13fa857a2a6cd2cad9a9b169.JPG

 

The part is now finished and I will post more pictures soon.

 

Yves

 

 

 

Posted

I finalized Frames #71, 72 and 73. These have been glued and a segment of keelson installed to keep everything in place:

 

PC180026.thumb.JPG.519a88586529c98545b1d7cd99a175e4.JPG

 

PC180027.thumb.JPG.ec790e5f84e58782770e410a3057a8e8.JPG

 

And the usual perspective pictures:

 

PC180028.thumb.JPG.ac7dbff80e97e851c6a1740be464efcc.JPG

 

PC180029.thumb.JPG.9373eb845d871c9630af4ba7c9db314c.JPG

 

I am working on the #80's frames which are really delicate and require a ton of adjustment to fit correctly. By far, the most difficult part of the hull.

 

Yves

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