HMS Harpy 1796 by Blue Ensign – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Glenn-UK]

Hello Maurice

You hard work and attention to detail is paying off as the coppering looks great.

 

Thanks for a very informative post (once again).

 

Glenn (UK)

 

[Moonbug]

Great work, and as always - very well thought through before and during.

[glbarlow]

The two sides at once is a good idea, after coppering one side of Vanguard I stopped modelling for three years in avoidance of doing the other side. Haven’t coppered anything since. 
 

I like the square tuck.  Probably like you I’ve been fascinated by them ever since Cheerful. 

[hollowneck]

 

 

On 2/6/2025 at 12:28 PM, Glenn-UK said:

I have followed you lead with regards to the square tuck which looks great on your model.

 

I really like your solution for the stern's finishing pieces, well-done! Exposed end grain on planking is a shipwright's "no-no!"

[hollowneck]

On 2/3/2025 at 5:15 AM, Blue Ensign said:

I want the build to last a while so I'm not tempted by the next offering to  beguile me from the fertile mind of Mr Watton.😉

"Resistance Is Futile." The Borg, Star Trek

Maurice, have you started on that room addition to your home yet?

[hollowneck]

10 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Here I'm using a small pick-up stick that doesn't obscure the plate edges.

For picking-up and attaching small items like copper plates, I found that this dentists staple works really well. It features a waxy rounded tip that is extremely long-lived. I haven't encountered anything small (in our small scales) it can't reliably pick up. It works especially well to assist in applying thin laser cut or P/E decorative elements.

 

One source: Amazon (where else!) - Pulpdent Pic n Stic

[SaltyScot]

Well worth the effort I would say. Nicely done!

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Guys,

@ Glenn, UK – I suspect a few of those plates will be coming off again for re-setting once I’ve completed the whole thing.

 

@ Glenn (USA) – I’m glad I went down the route of coppering side and side about, it removes that sinking feeling of going thro’ the whole thing again. Even so, I’m glad I didn’t copper ‘Indy’.😉

It was Cheerful that gave me the info and example to follow on the Square Tuck, there’s so much in Chuck’s builds that are useful on any other projects.

 

@ Ron –  Ha , Ha; I’ve already got the largest room in the house, as my Office/studio/workroom, completed in 2016.  As I lurch towards decrepitude  I think that phase of my life is done with.🫤

Thanks for the heads up on the Pic n stic , Amazon UK don’t have them, maybe just as well given the price, but I think I will get by with my poor man’s tooth-pick.

 

Thanks Bug, and Mark for your supportive comments.👍

 

B.E

[Blue Ensign]

Post 33

Coppering cont’d.

0205

Sixth day and the cutwater is reached on the Port side at least.

0208

0211

0212

0213

Seventh day and the second sheet of plates has been used up, around 600. One sheet to go.

0210

The Port side has been completed, bar the cleaning up and  fettlin’ the waterline.

So far, so good, I don't dislike the colour, a sort of sea scoured pink, but my model preference is for flatter and browner, as in old penny.

 

B.E

11/02/2025

[wvdhee]

If I'd known it would be that time consuming... 😬

[hollowneck]

6 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

So far, so good, I don't dislike the colour, a sort of sea scoured pink, but my model preference is for flatter and browner, as in old penny.

Here is my old penny HMS Ardent's coppering after 11 years. When completed she too was an eye-watering, bright sea scoured pink.

Perseverance + Patience = Patina

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 34

Coppering cont’d

The eighth day sees the Starboard bow section completed.

Many small pieces require cutting to fill in at the water-line and stem, and these take a lot of time.

 

The cutwater is next plated.

I needed to think a little about the approach.

The facing plates of the cutwater run vertically and are folded over the horizontal plates that extend from the hull. These in turn are lipped over the hull plates by around 3” (1mm at scale).

The concern at model scale is that the effect does not look  over bulky.

The provided plates exceed the width of the stem by the line of the outer nails each side which allows for a very fine return around the stem.

With the horizontal plates fixed up to the edge of the stem, the vertical plates were started at the waterline.

0215

I scored a line down each reverse side of a plate which allowed a lip to be formed for the return around the stem.

0254

This eased the fitting and allowed the cyano to quickly bite.

 

The ninth day sees completion of the plating.

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0250

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On completion I have 237 plates unused, so Chris has included plenty to cover mishaps and miscuts.

0257

I had very few off-cuts left at the end.

 

Not quite the end as the water-line needs cleaning up, I have a couple of options for this.

Some plates to be replaced, and then there’s the final cleaning and deciding on the finish.

 

 

B.E.

13/02/2025

[wvdhee]

Looking marvellous! And thanks for the tutorial 😊😉

[aliluke]

Hi Maurice

That old penny colour can be naturally achieved...It's holding strong on my Fly and has improved further with age. (Must get back to it - finish that ship).

 

Your Harpy and the copper is looking very good.

[SaltyScot]

A job well done I must say. It looks fantastic, truly.

[Desertanimal]

Looking great! 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 35

A critical look at the coppering.

At this point I do a finger test of the plating. Any snags felt require additional gluing or replacing of the plates.

0258

Plates do remove easily once a scalpel blade is inserted beneath one corner.

Cleaning the plates with Acetone as they were applied has paid dividends in that the surface colour is even and without any indications of glue marring.

It is quite tricky to get a completely smooth and even line at the copper top line because inevitably small pieces are required to meet the marked waterline.

This is an area where use of copper tape makes life easier.

 

To address this, tape is once again applied to the copper to  show any areas that require further trimming.

0261

A new scalpel blade does cut thro’ the copper plate, but care and a steady hand is required.

I took this series of photos to check how the line looked and if anything caught my eye.

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Doesn’t look too bad I think, but when I coppered Pegasus I added a batten along the copper top line.

Brian Lavery makes reference to this, and indicates use of a 3” elm strip, which equates to around 1mm at scale.

5390

5492

Use of a batten does cover any minor irregularities in the copper line.

I will have a play around and see if I prefer the look with or without a batten.

 

As an aside it is interesting to note that Harpy is slightly bigger overall than Pegasus. Heavier, broader, and only shorter by 1’7” on the gun-deck. She is also much more heavily armed, and with an official complement of only four less than Pegasus.

What she lacks is the aesthetic beauty of Pegasus.

Personally I prefer the more decorative vessels produced up to the last quarter of the 18^th century.

 

 

B.E

14/02/2025

 

[chris watton]

Swan class was only a foot longer along the gun deck, but Harpy was more stocky - in fact, it was this new class of more heavily armed flush decked brig-sloops that had made the likes of the Swan class obsolete.

Edited February 14 by chris watton

[ECK]

I think I will use your example and edge the copper line.

[Blue Ensign]

I did decide to fit a batten, spent today fitting it. It does neaten up the copper line.

 

B.E.

[AON]

That's what I was thinking... it looks quite smart and tiddley (finished) with the batten!

[Blue Ensign]

Post 36

The copper saga continues.

I decided to add a batten along the copper top line.

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For this I used 1.0.x 0.7mm Pearwood strip.

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A fairly easy process using cyano on dampened wood, working along the hull by degrees. Acetone was kept handy to clean as I went along.

Any tiny gaps were sealed with thick copper paint.

 

The next stage is clean-up, apply w-o-p to the woodwork between wale and copper.

Add the Outer Bulwark sheer rails, and remove the mdf bulkhead  ears to clear the deck for planking.

 

I will return to the copper sheathing in due course.

 

B.E.

15/02/2025

 

[SaltyScot]

It is amazing the difference that has made! It kind of just finishes that transition off nicely. Like it.

[hollowneck]

5 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I decided to add a batten along the copper top line.

 

Good call. The batten definitely helps the aesthetics. A 1.0 mm strip is all it takes.

I did the same with my old school Caldercraft 64 that has the golf ball sized bumps on her otherwise accurately-sized copper plates.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Mark and Ron.

@ Ron - Jotika/Caldercraft are still supplying those domed headed plates, difficult to understand why. They don't seem to have moved on very much in  their fittings, but I do like their sets of 0.3mm etched eyelets sold in sheets of 250.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 37

Back to the Construction

Three coats of W-o-P have been applied between Wale and Water-line, but I’m a tad disappointed.

0369

Despite my efforts to colour match the Pear strips, there is some striping evident.

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The mdf tabs have been removed in preparation for deck planking. The lower deck has been covered to prevent dust which may be tricky to completely clear.

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A second support cradle, has been re- purposed, from Cheerful I think, for working with the hull upright.

The supplied working cradle is good for some things but holding the hull steady ain’t one of them.

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The kit instructions now indicate use of the engraved deck section before adding the inner bulwarks. I am looking to plank the deck using Boxwood 3.4mm x 0.7mm strips, and I need to work out a plan before I begin.

 

B.E.

17/02/2025

[SaltyScot]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I need to work out a plan before I begin.

 

That sounds like the best way to go moving forward, B.E. She is looking so very good right now.

[Jim Lad]

Quote

Despite my efforts to colour match the Pear strips, there is some striping evident.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the 'striping'. Wood naturally comes in a range of colours and you hull looks really good!

 

John

[Blue Ensign]

Hi John, I was spoilt really by the beautifully matched Pear wood I obtained from Hobbymill E.U. that I used on my Sphinx and Indy builds. I thought I would get away with it on Harpy as  there was to be only a few strakes on view. I dare say I will grow to love it.🫤

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

Post 38

Thinking about Patina.

During the plating I had also been playing around with patina.

I set up a test sample of plates.

 

Day 1

0204

These were scoured using fine steel wool, followed by cleaning with acid dip and Isopropanol.

Having long been a fan of the copper finish achieved by Alistair (Aliluke) on his ‘Fly’ build.  I next tried his ‘natural’ approach.

Unusual maybe, but the chemical is widely available, free, and instantly on tap.

0278

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My own supply had no instant effect, but after several applications over several hours this is the result.

0284

Washed with clean water, and a comparison with the old penny look I am after. A way to go yet, I think.

0286

A further application and left overnight.

0287

Again, washed with clean water.

If I was looking for a weathered effect maybe, but not what I’m after.

 

Day 2

Fresh supplies and several more applications.

0288

Result after overnight.

0289

I am also applying the urine method to a sample of plates as supplied, without any cleaning beyond a wipe with isopropanol.

 

Day 3

0349

More fresh supplies, and several applications later, and result overnight.

Not a great deal of difference.

0353

Neither with the other sample.

 

Day 4

0382

Not much changed, and I’m not impressed with the look.

I prefer the look on the model as is rather than either the rather dirty looking treated plates, or a bright and shiny look that would result from the wire wool treatment.

 

Movin’ on…

 

B.E.

18/02/2025

 

 

[AON]

I wonder how they would look after sitting around untouched for a month or more?