HMS Harpy 1796 by Blue Ensign – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post 49

Roof boarding

The painted roof boards look attractive, but I suspect in reality they would have been tarred or sheathed in lead to prevent water ingress particularly for the starboard side Pantry.

I have decided to Lead the boarding as a contrast to the paintwork.

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The lead foil is patinated using Pewter Patination fluid following a dip in white vinegar.

0657

I trimmed the  boards a little to reduce the overhang at the front and longside.

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It proved quite tricky to secure the roof  and I had to get inventive with a clamping arrangement.

I did pre-bend the boards before gluing using pva. I didn’t want to use Cyano in case any got on the paintwork or lead.

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0664

It is useful at this point to check the fit of the stern davits that sit atop the capping rail.

 

While I was waiting for glue to dry I had a play around with naming Harpy.

The kit doesn’t include lettering for the stern, and it’s debateable whether these Brigs even had name plates.

0654

However, that’s no reason not to have a look; I used 5mm  stick on vinyl lettering  in the only practical place on the transom.

I do rather like a name on the stern even if it stretches credulity.

I’ll ponder it a while, but application of the name is best done before the outer transom piece is glued into place.

 

B.E.

05/03/2025

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 50

Fitting out continues

Looking at the stern area.

Overall I found this section difficult to get how I wanted it, and several dry fits, re-fits and decontructions were involved.

Stern board

This a tricky part to attach as it is awkward to clamp whilst ensuring the part is properly aligned.

0668

Again, I had to get inventive to secure the board in place.

0670

Having most of it glued, I separately re-clamped the lower quarter corners which were the most difficult to conform to the stern.

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Finally, the Capping rail to the Tafferal is glued into place. The Aft davits were used to ensure alignment.

 

Quarter pieces

These are represented by a two layer arrangement so that the finished look is of the Lower Quarter piece extending down to the Square tuck.

0675

I spent a fair bit of time fiddling with the set-up for these, and once fitted I thought they could use some beefing up on the aft side where they meet the lower counter and  the wale.

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An afternoon of tweaking to arrive at a look I was happy with.

 

The kit differs slightly from the Adm plans.

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0705

The kit has stern davits  with a crutch for the Boom placed centrally on the tafferal.

0706

The kit usefully includes laser cut patterns for the sheaves both top and bottom. They need to be carefully drilled thro’ (0.6mm drill) from both sides.

The Adm plan  does not show davits, instead the counter timbers are extended above the rails to provide port and starboard boom crutches.

It is more than likely that during her long career Harpy would have been fitted with stern davits, and for a model they do provide a feature of interest, particularly when fitted with one of the sweet little cutters supplied with the kit.

 

Waist rails

0682

Chris has designed a ‘string’ of rails that fit seamlessly between the ports. Finely cut with a  central groove to represent a moulding they are easy to attach using spots of cyano.

I had thought of making my own, scribing a profile, but I didn’t think I could get down to scale size, and the kit ones look fine to me, given the size and class of the vessel.

 

B.E.

08/03/2025

[chris watton]

I have little doubt vessels of this size were fitted with stern davits, and even later, quarter davits, especially one such as Harpy, which had such a long career spanning both the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars - wartime modifications would have come thick and fast, I think.

 

I got the inspiration for stern davits from a painting depicting Harpy and the ship sloop Fairy (Swan Class?) engaging the French Frigate Le Pallas off St Malo in 1800.

[Blue Ensign]

Don't  know about you Chris but I struggle to relate that painting of Harpy to the Adm Plans. but that doesn't  negate the use of stern davits on Brigs of the period.

There seems to be a lot of freeboard above the Gunports on that painting.

 

I like the look of your Harpy much better.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[SaltyScot]

Builds like this inspire me. I am a lot slower keeping up with the maritime vernacular, me being a newbie and all, but some of it is beginning to become familiar  

[Blue Ensign]

Post 51

The Rudder

This is a nicely made Pearwood item with outer veneers, also of Pear, marked with the appropriate engravings for those who don’t intend to copper the hull.

 

With the Copper plate set comes a rudder specific section of plates. These can be added as a unit rather than individual plates and are designed to fit the rudder profile. A separate strip fits to the aft rudder face.

For this kit Chris has supplied laser board versions of the straps and pintles, a far better option than pe for this purpose.

 

The pintles on the rudder are an integral part of the rudder formed in Pearwood. The Gudgeons are also part of the rudder structure represented by pegs that fit into slots on the Sternpost.

If the rudder is to be attached in ‘working’ mode attaching the Gudgeons to the sternpost would be necessary.

Altho’ I’ve  had working rudders on many of my builds, using Chuck’s Syren parts, I’m going with the kit arrangement on Harpy, with a few tweaks.

0712

A small modification I made to the rudder was to file a bearding line down the inner edges of the rudder which for practical purposes allow better movement and gives a more authentic look.

Strictly the copper plates should be folded inwards  on the inners side, and folded over by about a scale mm on the outboard side.

0711

The provided set is too short to fully do this, but sufficient to follow and cover the bearding.

0715

For the rudder head straps rather than fiddle around with thin pieces of Laser board card I used heat shrink tubing.

Hanging the Rudder.

The rudder fits perfectly into the designated slots, nice and close to the stern post.

0718

The fit is so good I didn’t find it necessary to glue it into place

The straps to the Gudgeons can now be fitted to the hull.

0721

Where fitted over the copper plates I have painted the straps a Copper/Bronze colour to represent the cuprous alloy from which they were cast.

The bolt heads, barely noticed, are represented by spots of thick paint mix applied with the point of a  wooden cocktail stick.

The kit set-up for rudder hanging no doubt makes what can be a tricky exercise a simple operation, but there is a cost in authenticity.

Photo from  Build manual.

It caught my eye that there is an obvious disconnect between the gudgeon straps on the sternpost which end short of the gudgeon and the pintles that fit into them.

0717

Adm plan detail.

The difference can be seen here, the Gudgeons  stand proud of the sternpost and the Pintle cut-outs in the rudder allow the pintle to engage with the hole in the Gudgeon.

 

Once you see it the eye is drawn to it.

0729

The look can be enhanced to an extent by turning the Gudgeon straps around the sternpost, and using a spot of paint just below the Pintle straps in-line with the Pintles.

 

Still a couple of things to  finish, the Spectacle plate in particular, which should fit just below the Hance.

 

 

B.E.

09/03/2025

 

[SaltyScot]

That looks fantastic!! Your attention to detail is certainly inspiring, sir.

[ECK]

Very nice. Only issue is given the wood nature of the pintles. I banged it and broke the rudder off resulting in my gluing the rudder back on and taping it until the end to prevent another bump and brake

[Blue Ensign]

Even with the use of proper Gudgeons and  wire pintles the rudder remains vulnerable.

It's usually the Gudgeons that break away from the sternpost with that set-up.

Using a small bulldog clip to secure the rudder and keel helps.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 52

Little gem fittings (Part 1)

As a change of scene I have turned my attention to assembling the deck fittings, which are more time consuming than you may think, at least for me they are.

I start with the Winch.

0733

Tiny brass photo-etched parts that need blackening and which try to escape at every opportunity.

Pearwood  parts that require careful cleaning up before assembly and painting.

0734

The deck slots need checking for fit.

0742

The winch is conveniently assembled on the model following painting.

 

Capstan

Need to refer to the plan for assembly to ensure that the various sections are added in the right order.

0752

The Capstan is assembled on 6mm ø dowel which represents the spindle, and everything fits perfectly.

0753

The spindle extends down to the lower deck where the heel slots into a step. In reality the spindle tapered below deck but that’s a detail I haven’t followed on this build.

I  decided to bring out some of the detail on the drum head, by painting in the iron reinforcing ring.

0759

When adding the final topping piece to the Drumhead, the holes for the Capstan bar retaining pins should align with the bar mortises.

03576a

0374a

Having assembled it, I wasn’t too keen on the engraved Drumhead  patterns, so I reversed the cap to show the plain side.

 

B.E.

13/03/2025

 

[chris watton]

You can add domed pin heads into the holes arounf the top to really finish it off.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 53

Fittings (Part 2)

Companion Light

Immediately aft of the Companionway is the light which sits over what would be part of the Captains cabin area.

The kit item is of standard design at this period but I felt the glazed areas were little less than convincing with two small Georgian squares. These are provided without glazing so if that is desired, sections of thin acetate or perhaps one of the glazing stuff products will need to be obtained.

0485b

I chose to modify the glazing by reference to the Adm. plan which shows a run of four rectangular panes much in the style of the Cutter Cheerful.

0787

I removed the broad central pillar from the frames, added thin  acetate at the rear, and inserted  bars cut from 0.6mm pear fret.

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0797

 

Companionway

This cover over the aft ladderway is a common feature on smaller vessels, but is not shown on the Adm plan for Harpy, which doesn’t mean the absence of one during Harpy’s career.

It is a nicely detailed piece with hinged roof section and double doors. The sides are nicely panelled  but fitting those tiny pe hinges tested my eyesight  and dexterity to the limit.

The only puzzlement I have is what kept the lid open, it surely needed a support method which is absent from the kit.

I wanted the hatch open to give a view of the ladderway but felt that a lid at an angle without support looked odd.

0789

This arrangement taken from The Global Schooner by Marquardt is what I’m thinking of.

This book is also a valuable addition to the library of anyone interested in ship modelling.

 

I firstly added ledges to support the lid when closed using 1mm square section.

0804

Wire was used to represent the supports when the lid was open.

Finally the doors were fitted another  testy little exercise featuring tiny hinges. I did try Syren handles on the doors, but felt that ring latches suited better in this case.

03579a

When dry fitting it on deck it did strike me that this cover appears to present  a significant obstacle to working the Capstan. Perhaps that’s why the Adm. plan only shows  a ladderway that could be covered by boards or a grating.

 

 Always more questions than answers….

 

B.E.

14/03/2025

[chris watton]

When the lid is closed, there is space for the capstan bars to go over, I checked when designing the companion - what is in your Harpy is the third iteration of that (Initially, I designed as per the plan, with not housing, just the coamings). There are numerous records of officers moaning about the fact that some deck fittings were too close to the capstan, or the ladderways being too restrictive, and suggesting they be moved...

 

ETA - I did purchase 4 plans for Harpy, with two for Diligence. My first plan was Harpy profiles, which showed stocks for swivel guns, so I assume this was one of the first drafts, just before 6-Pounder main battery with 12 x swivels were changed in favour of the much heavier broadside of 16 x 32-Pounder carronades and 2 x long gun chasers - as a later plan shows the swivel stocks removed, along with changes to the fore channel positions. (from what I remember when researching/designing this, at least...)

Edited Friday at 04:14 PM by chris watton

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Chris, can't help these things cropping up in my mind. There is around 9ft 6 inches of space available between the capstan and the wheel and that would mean stepping over the companion light on the aft side, unless of course the light was removed  and the ladderway boarded over during use of the Capstan. There is just about enough room on the forward side before the winch becomes an issue.

 

B.E.

[AON]

The drawing depicts a coaming with an inside lip as thought the companionway fits over it and might be removable, in which case a planked cover might have been put over the opening so men on the capstan didn't need to climb over the companion way or run around it.

 

What do you think?

[chris watton]

6 minutes ago, AON said:

The drawing depicts a coaming with an inside lip as thought the companionway fits over it and might be removable, in which case a planked cover might have been put over the opening so men on the capstan didn't need to climb over the companion way or run around it.

 

What do you think?

Could well be!

[Blue Ensign]

Post 54

Fittings (Part 3)

Wheel

As with other recent kits the wheel is a photo-etched assembly. Having cleaned the wheel parts it was assembled using cyano.

0782

It was then chemically blackened to give it some tooth, following which primer was applied.

I have been quite happy with Vanguard wheels and have not felt the desire to replace them with something more traditional.

If they have one weakness it is that the handles are invariably very fine, and susceptible to damage.

 

The stanchions for the wheel are a matched pair but given the rise in the deck towards the stern the aft stanchion should sit a tad lower to keep the barrel and wheel level.

This distinction is clearly shown on the Adm plan.

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0824

I took 1mm from the bottom of the aft stanchion to bring the wheel level.

0827

The wheel needs a lot of cleaning up but I wanted to get the set on the deck correct first.

 

Closely associated with the Wheel is the Binnacle.

In this case a single compass cabinet, pretty little thing, but a couple of questions do come to mind.🤔

 

There is a centrally located chimney, presumably relating to the internal lamp used to light compass cabinets at night, but where would the lantern be? Such lamps were usually in a separate compartment with a glazed  screen separating it from the compass.(s)

 

The placement of this Binnacle between wheel stanchion and skylight would effectively block any view of the compass by the Helmsman.

The kit arrangement shows the open section facing forward, a position that would also not afford the Helmsman a view.

0838

With a single compass cabinet it would make sense for the Binnacle to be offset to port or starboard. With smaller cabinets is it likely there would be two, one each side of the wheel.

0841

In assembling the cabinet I glazed the compass section using acetate, and re-made the top sans the chimney hole.

I do like this Bijou Binnacle but I would set it slightly outside of the wheel, glazed side facing the wheel.

With this set-up it would be nice if the kit had two binnacles.

 

Purely out of curiosity I ordered a Pearwood double Binnacle at the princely sum of £2.80 just to see if I preferred it.

0834

0835

A bit of basic fettlin’ – blocking off the central section where the lamp would be, glazing the compass compartments with acetate, and filling in the viewing panels on the forward side.

0832

Even with this arrangement the cabinet is so close to the wheel that there is barely a view of the compasses.

 

On balance I think I like the single cabinet look better, but would have preferred to have two.

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0851

This particular figure from the Vanguard collection does pass muster as a helmsman, and I may well use him as a scale indicator.

 

 

B.E.

15/03/2025

[Landlubber Mike]

Just caught up with your log BE, really well done as per your usual fine quality of work.  Looks like a fantastic kit!

[SaltyScot]

20 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Looks like a fantastic kit!

 

It most certainly does and BE, you are doing it justice sir.

[AON]

The contract of the Arrogant class 74's of the late 1700's reads:  "square at the head 1 feet 11 inches" ... "and from thence to begin its tapering to 0 feet 12-1/2 inches as before observed, that the main keel is to be wrought at that place".

 

They we very lax back then, posting the name and location of the whole fleet in the newspapers. They did stop putting the names on the sterns of the ships but I'm not certain when this was implemented.... 19th century?

 

 

Edited 9 hours ago by AON

[James H]

Just a  quick note. Fritzlindsay is another account that Allanyed set up after his banishment from here last year. He's now been restricted from posting.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks James, saved me the trouble of composing an answer.

 

B.E.