HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768

[BANYAN]

Hi again all ands another small update.  i am heading off on holidays later this month so have put off starting on the yardarms. in the meantime I have started making some of the final fittings such as the swivel guns and Quarterbadge Window Shutters (separate post).

 

The swivel guns provided (see parts photo) were a single moulded soft metal part which while showing some detail were not up to scratch.  I purchased some small canon from Chuck which are real nice and I need to adapt these to be swivel guns including the cradle, post spigot and the training arms.  The following photos show progress to date where I have completed the saddle to the point of drilling for the trunnions which will be soldered in place using 1mm brass rod (stiffer than wire) to form the trunnions.  I have still to drill a hole in the bade to accept the post spigots.

 

To make the cradle (consistent shape and drilling) I hand shaped the cradle from the brass strip stock shown using parallel pliers with a mark on the sides for width and for the height of one of the arms.  this was then placed in a wooden template/jig that was of the required width of the cradle and marked for the position of the trunnion holes.  A notch in the end of this allowed the brass strip to be seated correctly and then secured in a vise.  I hand drilled the trunnion holes (with a few failures where I wandered off centre on the bottom hole (as shown in one of the photos).  The drilled strip was then cut to height on the other arm, placed in my hand-held vise and shaped using a needle file.

 

I will make the training arms from wire similar to the technique shown by Chuck.  The post spigot holes will be drilled next and all parts soldered as required to complete the assembly.  I will show these when I get to that part.

 

Photos - part 1:

 

     

 

   

 

cheers

 

Pat

[BANYAN]

Photos - part 2:  you can see the supplied less detailed part in photo three.  the drilled cradle shown is one of the 'rejected' parts (shown as the tree to the left in the collective photo).

 

   

 

   

 

The posts have been drilled to accept the spigots but I have yet to determine how high above the post the cradle was actually positioned.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited February 6, 2016 by BANYAN

[Cabbie]

Beautiful work Pat

I'm glad you lot are all in front of me, showing me what to do.

Cheers Chris

[BANYAN]

And now for the start of the quarter badge windows.  These are only 0.75mm thick and just over 5mm wide.  I have attempted to show the louvers by inscribing on both sides then preshading before painting them red.  these will be positioned in the open position.  The AOTS and some drawings show these as angles up on one side and down on the other but I believe this to be incorrect.  the angled positioning would be justified if the badge windows were  in a rounded housing/gallery, but these windows (on Endeavour) are relatively flat and would there for open outward flat or 90 degrees to the plane of the window.

 

Open to discussion here please

 

     

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

[RGL]

I went with the replica, but this does not man it's correct.

[mtaylor]

I like the way the badges turned out, Pat. I suspect you're right about the way the shutters were hung.  Any other way would put some added stress on the hardware.

 

Nice metal work on the guns.  I'm looking forward to seeing how they turn out.

[BANYAN]

Thanks Chris, you'll improve your skills as you go mate and end up showing me (and others) some new tricks also

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited February 7, 2016 by BANYAN

[BANYAN]

Thanks for the photos Greg and for looking in.  I know that like a gate, it sometimes sits at an awkward angle when open, but flat/parallel to the surface when closed.  But I am yet to be convinced this window was rounded and required such treatment.  That said though, if the replica has these, and they do appear to be working versions, I may have to reconsider?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited February 7, 2016 by BANYAN

[RGL]

It's a lot of work to reconsider, I had to file the metal to the angle, add bolsters, putty, sand flush. I used a Caldercraft etch for the window frame which was at that angle. I'd leave it be.

[BANYAN]

Thanks Greg, I'll stay with flat then

 

Makes you woonder though, that if you had to do all that work to get the 'jaunty' offset angles whether it was the actual practice?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited February 7, 2016 by BANYAN

[RGL]

I suppose the originals draughts?

[shipaholic]

Hi Pat

 

Here are pics of the badge window on the draughts of Earl of Pembroke before conversion to the Endeavour, and later draught showing same shape but less detail. They clearly show that the window was angled upwards, meaning that the shutters would swing open just like Parkinson sketched them. Those badges in the AL kit are wrong, sorry. I turfed mine when I built the AL and made wood ones the correct shape.

 

Cheers

Steve

[RGL]

Tick tick tick tick........ Will he, won't he? (Easy for me to say as I've finished!)

[BANYAN]

Thanks Steve, that explains a lot.  Just looking at your pics explained it straight away - the windows were angled and not square as per AL model and hence would swing as indicated/drawn.  I wish I had noticed this earlier (much earlier)

 

I will just have to live with it as removing these runs a serious risk of disturbing the second layer (veneer) hull planking - bugger!  Sorry to disappoint Greg

 

Thanks for the feed back Steve and Greg, I will have to pay a lot more attention to these sorts of details much earlier in my next builds.  At least the Vampire and HMCSS Victoria did not have these so one less thing to stress about.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[BANYAN]

Hi folks, a few updates.

 

First a completed anchor ring:

 

 

 

cheers

 

Pat

[BANYAN]

Part 1 of the Swivel Gun production line

 

These show my soldering set-up and some of the tools I use.  Also the first stages in preparing and soldering the cradle for the gun - one photo shows the part in place with flux applied and bead of solder ready to for the heat. As you can see  a relatively clean joint with minimal clean-up required. Please note the part is only 1.25mm x 4mm long x 3mm high.  I have moved to Resistence Soldering as it enables me to really control the soldering heat and restrict the area that is intensely heated for the solder to flow.  The anchor ring above was soldered in-situ with the puddenning in place with no problems.  this will also allow me to solder chains, plates etc on the model if required; but some care is still required.  A lot better than putting a naked flame anywhere near these materials.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

   

 

   

 

 

[BANYAN]

Part 2 of the Swivel gun assembly process with some partially completed units in the last photo.  I still need to clean these up, blacken them and add the control arm knob/timber (not sure which way to go yet).

 

I am also looking foe pointers/advice on what to use or how to create a fixed circular pate about half the way down the spigot that would sit on the gun post and stop the spigot going further down the hole.  This then allowed to gun to rotate in the hole.  This will require a very small washer type part to be soldered in place which at about 1.5mm may be a tad small to achieve

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

   

 

   

[mtaylor]

Great looking guns, Pat.   The more I hear about it, the more I'm wondering if resistance soldering is the way to go?  Seems ideal for so many of the soldering jobs we have do on these things.

Edited February 15, 2016 by mtaylor

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up, Pat.  Good looking soldering setup, but isn't resistance soldering a tad expensive?

 

John

[RGL]

Nice work!

[BANYAN]

Thanks all for looking in and kind comments.

 

John, yep - that is the downside as it does cost significantly more to set up.  But I would argue that if doing a lot of soldering, and some of that may be on or very near the model at times (fixing breakages etc )  then it is still a WHOLE lot cheaper than rebuying/redoing the model if it catches fire

 

The real advantage though is that I can do several different joints in very close proximity without de-soldering the others to get a new one ion place.  if you can afford it, I would very highly recommend it.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

[Edit:  I should have been a little clearer that the gun barrels  are after-market - these are some of Chuck's excellent products.]

Edited February 15, 2016 by BANYAN

[RGL]

Regardless, great work both of you, I can't solder at all!

[DaveRow]

Thanks all for looking in and kind comments.

 

John, yep - that is the downside as it does cost significantly more to set up.  But I would argue that if doing a lot of soldering, and some of that may be on or very near the model at times (fixing breakages etc )  then it is still a WHOLE lot cheaper than rebuying/redoing the model if it catches fire

 

The real advantage though is that I can do several different joints in very close proximity without de-soldering the others to get a new one ion place.  if you can afford it, I would very highly recommend it.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

[Edit:  I should have been a little clearer that the gun barrels  are after-market - these are some of Chuck's excellent products.]

Hi Pat,

The swivel guns are taking a nice shape.

You could add/slide a timber handle onto those shafts ?

 

My AB resistance kit arrived today.

Cannot wait to get into some test welding, before parts for the boat.

 

Dave R

Edited February 15, 2016 by DaveRow

[Dan Vadas]

Hi Pat, nice soldering work .

 

I am also looking foe pointers/advice on what to use or how to create a fixed circular plate about half the way down the spigot that would sit on the gun post and stop the spigot going further down the hole.

 

 

Without knowing anything about the temperatures involved in Resistance Soldering (less heat than Silver Soldering???) I would have suggested that you silver solder the plates onto the pins BEFORE resistance soldering the pins to the guns. Maybe that's still possible if you can remove the pins again?

 

Otherwise - don't stress about using a plate at all. If you drill the holes in the Stanchions to the right depth the pin will bottom out at the right height .

 

Another alternative - CA or Epoxy the plates to the pins.

 

  Danny

[mikec]

Those guns are looking fantastic. You have captured the look of them really well.

[BANYAN]

Hi all,  a small update to the swivel guns.  This shows some of the completed items along with the kit part and some left over parts  (errors/badly made) bits left over, but give an idea of the process I followed.

 

Dan, the beauty of resistance soldering is that you have much more control of the heat and soldering the pins on later was not a problem.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

[popeye the sailor]

swivel guns look really good Pat.........you efforts have really paid off!  

[Chuck]

Thats looking excellent Pat.   Nicely done  Love the quarter badges!!!!

[BANYAN]

Hi all.  I was remiss in not advising that the barrels I used were some of the excellent products offered by Chuck through Syren.  makes a big difference to the level of detail.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[BANYAN]

Thanks everyone for looking in and all the likes - very motivating and rewarding to see the interest.

 

regards

 

Pat