Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF

[popeye the sailor]

true......but you've found that it is doable,  and more pleasing to the eye.  are you thinking of redoing them?  to experiment at this scale must be a lot of fun........aye Michael

Edited March 9, 2014 by popeye the sailor

[michael mott]

Bedford, thanks for the support.

 

Denis, yes I will have to redo them now, at least there are only 6 that have been done that way.  Now I am thinking about how many lines there are that will need an eye. I'm just happy that this is not a three masted schooner with topsail's. I think I would be ready for the boys with the white jackets.

I have been working the lathe all day making stock for more shackles of various sizes. I found a good way to handle the small diameter that needed necking down in the centre. I used a cone cup centre and then made the ends of the stock the same angle as the centre drill that I used to make the cone cup.

 

The cone cup was very simple  length of 3/8 stock about 5 inches long and I turned down one end to 3/16 then drilled it with the centre drill, then polished it up hardened it and tempered it.

Then some toolmakers clamps on the bed of the lathe to give me repeatable stops The brass rod which I purchased from Home Depot I was good quality free machining so I was pleasantly surprised, it was much better than the KS engineering stock that I had on hand for machining, the KS stuff was a bit gummy likely just yellow brass.

 

Using the cone cup allowed me to have 80% of the length of the blanks for the shackles out away from the chuck, I will take some pictures tomorrow. In over 50 years of using a lathe today was the first time that I used a cone cup centre, and what a useful accessory it is, I had to keep it well lubricated because it is not a live centre, but it worked very well. One never stops learning when it come to machining it seems.

 

Michael

[captainbob]

"One never stops learning when it come to machining it seems."   You're right, and you're one of the teachers.

 

Bob

[DORIS]

Just amazing! There are no suitable words that can describe the highest level of this masterpiece. I can say only "WOW"!

Admirable realism, you are really excellent shipbuilder!

 

Best regards,

 

Doris

[michael mott]

Bob, Thank you for your compliment I really appreciate it.

 

Doris, thank you very much for your kindness I continue to draw some of my inspiration from the very high standards that you are setting.

 

Yesterday and today I spent most of the days working on some new shackles, I mentioned the cone cup centre, the first picture shows getting the blanks ready for necking down by machining the 60 degree bevel on both ends.

 

 

With the cone centre set in the tailstock and the blank clamped in the three jaw chuck the first step down is started in the middle of the 3/16 free machining brass blank and the form tool cuts down to the finished diameter in 2 passes the tool is prevented from running into the chuck by an adjustable stop that engages with the carriage.

 

 

The stock is removed from the three jaw and end for ended and re clamped in the three jaw without moving the cone centre, this ensures that the ends are machined to the same length (mostly)

 

 

 

the next picture shows the centre with one of the blanks after the first stage of the machining the outer ends are then shaped with the same form tool to round them off

 

 

After the second stage with the ends rounded

 

 

Next they set up on a heat sink so that both ends could be annealed prior to squashing flat.

 

 

The flattening was done with the Milling machine vice.

 

 

A pin was machined from the 1/8 hex stock threaded 2x56 and then flattened for the finger pad finally drilled and cleaned up with the wire wheel.

 

The bending was done in the same manner as the previous shackles with the round nosed pliers.

 

The next picture shows 3 slightly different sizes hung up ready for service,

 

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

[Sailor1234567890]

Once they're installed, you'll want to wire them shut. This means passing a thread of wire through the hole in the screw and taking a few turns around the leg of the shackle next to it. This will keep it from coming undone in use.  Google Mousing a shackle. You'll find something about it.

[usedtosail]

All I can say Michael is Wow!

[Mirabell61]

Michael,

 

those shackles look great !!

 

Nils

[michael mott]

Sailor I checked out the net , what a great bunch of images for shackles.

 

Used to sail, Thanks.

 

Nils thanks, I need quite a few it seems.

 

Today I did some work on the cockpit cap, I soaked some spruce for an hour or so while I made a former to bend the wood.

 

I will be using 5 strips to create the rough form once they are prepared I will glue them together.

 

I used a sheet of 6 mm aircraft ply to make the basic shape and bolted it to a sheet of 6mm plex

 

 

The sharp corners were not easy and I think that I will need to bend up a few more strips I did these first ones cold but I will use some hot pieces for the next strips I clamped them using some drop in pegs and wedges.

 

 

 

Michael

 

 

 

[Sailor1234567890]

Looking back at my last post here, I didn't even tell you how cool I thought those shackles you made are. Nice job. They are really jewels.

[popeye the sailor]

no,  I don't think you'll have any trouble with the men in the white coats........they'd see that your a modeler,  and think it all.....quite normal     wonderful work on the shackles..........your metal work is truly amazing!

[michael mott]

Thank you all for the "likes"

 

Sailor, thanks for the compliment.

 

Denis, Thanks, I really do enjoy working with Metal, although it does have its quirks.

 

today I unclamped the strips for the cockpit cap and began to think about the next steps which led me to cut a wider strip of a slightly thinner piece measuring .259 high x .040 inches thick which will be glued to the inside first to act as a lip for the top strips which are .190 x .050 inches. I did try using a curling iron but it was a bit too big in diameter, the Admiral was at work (shhh) I ended up plugging in the soldering station dialing back the temperature to about the half way point on the dial. slowly moved it back and forth whilst applying pressure to the strip to freehand the curves. It was then clamped into the cockpit to dry.

 

 

While it was drying I cut a short 2 1/2 inch section off the 3 inch diameter log of English Boxwood  Buxus sempervirens to make some larger blocks for the boom and the main sheet the top one will be a triple and the lower a double both 8 inches in scale. after squaring it up I cut some pieces which are 3/4 x 1/8 inches by 2 1/2 inches long laying out the ovals for the blocks, it occurred to me that I would end up with a larger more useful offcut if I drew the ovals at each end of the wood.

 

 

As I was fretting the ovals out it dawned on me that there were two cleats just hidden there waiting to be found, I think seeing Doris' wood cleats must have been lurking there in my subconscious.

 

 

I was happy to make this discovery and now I will have a few cleats to shape up as well.

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

[Bedford]

It really is amazing what we can find lurking in the wood isn't it?

[popeye the sailor]

...good way to utilize a piece of wood

[captainbob]

Nice.  I would probably have drawn the ovals closer together and missed out on such a find and all the fun.

 

Bob

[DSiemens]

Just when you think it can't be any more amazing you build some more.  Incredible metal work.

[michael mott]

Thanks for all the likes.

"It really is amazing what we can find lurking in the wood isn't it?"

 

Steve yes it happens when one is open to options.

 

Bob Had I been more conservative I would have cut a shorter piece of the end of the small log and would have also missed it.

 

Daniel, thanks.

 

Today was a good day for clamping.

 

The inside cover was glued first and now the task of adding the layers one piece at a time.

 

 

After the rest are glued up then I will shape the profile

 

 

 

Michael

[Senior ole salt]

Seeing the detail in this model, I expect to see turks heads on the tiller.  I know I will not be disappointed.

 

S.os

[druxey]

Now, that's a challenge! I'm sure Michael will be up for it.

[captainbob]

But right now it's the fun of making plywood.

 

Bob

[michael mott]

 

But right now it's the fun of making plywood.

Bob you are absolutely right,

 

I have already spent way too much time this morning reading and watching videos of how to make a Turks Head knot and its many variations.  I'm not going to pick up this gauntlet just yet, Mr Old Salt.  And you are not helping by encouraging him Mr. Druxey.

 

I still have not yet finished deciding on the final shape and design of the tiller, it will be interesting though when I get there. the current apple wood one is just a placeholder. I have not resolved the connection point to the rudder shaft yet.

 

Today I hope to get the rest of the cockpit cap rail glued up.

 

Every day there seems to be more and more work to do on this project, it will definitely help on the next cutter though, I can see that this type of modelwork is going to be fulfilling the rest of the foreseeable future.  I just wish there were more hours in the day;~)

 

Michael

Edited March 13, 2014 by michael mott

[newbuilder101]

"turks heads on the tiller" If you do decide to take up the gauntlet, I know it will be beautiful, just like the rest of your build!

[michael mott]

Sherry, thanks for those kind words.

 

While waiting for glue to dry on the cockpit.

 

 

I worked on the Boxwood blocks for the main sheet. the block parts were stuck to the block of poplar with some double sided carpet tape.

 

 

After drilling the 1/32 holes I dropped in some brass 1/32 rod to give the blocks a bit of assurance against the shear forces of the 5/32 end mill made from a snapped off (on purpose) drill bit.

 

 

The next task was one that I did have a little concern over because I did not use a centre drill to ensure that the start did not wander. The Boxwood has such a fine grain that I felt confident that the drilling would be Ok. I used 4 rods of 1/32 brass to assemble the stack of partsI was happy that they slid down nicely.

 

 

Because the wood is quite hard and fine I did not want to sand the excess off the assembly and opted to use the trusty jewelers saw , plus the off cuts can be used later on something else. the first task was to trace the shape from the elliptical pieces to the spacers with a sharp pencil.

 

 

 

 

 

Next I will drill the centre hole through the rest of the parts at the same time as the brass parts.

 

 

To be continued.

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

looking good Michael 

[dvm27]

Love your updates Michael. Looking at the ebony (?) sheave blank in the last photo reminds me why I seldom turn ebony anymore. Lots of chip-outs. 

[michael mott]

Denis, thanks.

 

 

Looking at the ebony (?) sheave blank in the last photo

Greg I am glad that the updates are well received, the sheave blank is Lignum Vitae, and the end that the chip outs occurred is for the same reason that Ebony tends to chip out as well, it is such tough stuff to season properly.This blank was machined originally from a small billet that was given to me as a gift when I left the University of Alberta as a technician in the Industrial Design and Sculpture Department in 1977, so 30 odd years later the stuff still checked a little after being re-sawn The Same goes for the Ebony that I have, it is even older around 40 years and there are a lot of microscopic checks in it too, so I have to be very selective in how I re-saw it.

 

Michael

Edited March 14, 2014 by michael mott

[michael mott]

I had a wonderful surprise this evening, I was looking through some family material looking for some information for my Brother who lives in BC when I found a letter that I had written to my mother and father in 1969 in it I was describing a boat that I was going to build, it was an interesting enough coincidence that I thought it worth sharing in this particular build log.

 

I was 21 years old at the time.

 

 

I definitely see a resemblance it has taken a while so far and it is a lot smaller than my original idea that i had completely forgotten, but it was obviously lurking there in the back of my mind somewhere.

 

Michael

[druxey]

Hah! You were doomed, Michael…. 

 

I had a similar experience. Some years ago, my mother was down-sizing and came across a construction paper booklet. It was a 'diary' that I had made in school when I was about six years old. On opening this, the first entry read, in a very childish hand, "I am building a ship model". Also doomed.

[Mirabell61]

Michael,

 

thats a a nice rememberance to your mind. The mainsheet block shall look great when its done

 

Nils

[michael mott]

Thanks for all the likes

 

Yes I'm definitely hooked.

 

Not wanting to clutter up Bob's Lettie build log, and needing to deal with the same basic issues of holes through the bulwark and because Bob was waiting for me to try this, I did here are my results for the holes in the cutter at least one side of the hole.

1 cut the holes then sand the angle and tubes the tubes have had the first annealing

 

 

2 the first forming using a spoon shaped modeling tool for working with sculpy (not the best)

 

 

3 after the second annealing and using some shaped steel rods, the point was trimmed with some flush cut side cutters.

 

 

4 The wood soft poplar snapped out but the wood block was still usable for forming here the end of the seel rod is almost hemispherical

 

 

5 next a slightly narrower tip followed by a third annealing

 

 

6 an even sharper tip used on the back side to flare out the tube a little more the block under it is hard Maple

 

 

7 a little polish with some steel wool

 

 

8a check with the eye laying on the cap rail above the hole that it will serve

 

 

 

So I will use this method for the rest of the holes both inside and out

 

Michael