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HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...

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Some helping "shrouds" to straighten the parts ...




... and glue the irons into the slot.






The main channels got the missing iron support bracket - ok it is brass now - ...




... and the preventer chain plates are added on the bottom ...




... but aside this it is almost business as usual :-)








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So dinner is served, the official start is done, the sets are available:




Or straight from the source:


the parts:
to order:
Simply write an e-mail to
Enjoy it, Daniel
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Thanks Jan,


you know I treasure your critical eye :-)


But this is the difference that one step more in development can do. By now I have to say, that they became a great alternative for the builds to follow even to my self made ones  and are a gigantic time saver and are in some respects even more crisp in appearance.



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The glueing onto the test hull now was rather boring to me apart from the thrill if things will work out, but the developing and fiddling out the drawings and production was a too tempting task :-)


The even more exciting task is bringing life to them on the real build, looking forward to it.



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... today someone of a german forum contacted me to "my wonderful wooden model" ...




... wooden ...


... just to put the record straight and to jump back in time ...
... the starting phase, classical oob ...
...           ...
...           ...
...           ...
... plastique au goût du chef ...
PS: That was in 2004, I just glued in the lower battery deck ...
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I do believe not, as we did not bother, as I always say, no matter what material you use, if the model has a soul, nobody bothers anymore about the material :-)




PS: That is why I am thankful, that there is no separation of plastik and wood here in MSW as in some other places - it IS nonsense to me.

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Thank you Mark and Popeye!



Soemething small went ahead. 
That is why the etch orgy originally started: I could not find enough Xs and Vs ...
... still needs a touch of copper paint.
The upper ones prebent ...
... and used a new technic to fix them: Glue the parts face down onto tape and use spray glue for the back ...
... prefixed on place and finally fixed by applying extra liquid CA with a tooth pick.
Thanks to Bosco/Nicolas and his  Richelieu for this tip.
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that would have been great fore my Cutty Sark build........that's what got me to buy the decal maker program.   the only problem I faced was that ink jet printers don't do white.   if I could have found something like an ALPS printer.....all would have been right with the world.  they are around,  but the price is through the roof!



the decal sheet for the kit was no good,  so I ordered a new sheet from Revell........I got that and two of the three sail sheets.  when I went to use these decals,  I was dismayed to find that even those decals had micro cracked.   I tried to find a place to have them made,  but I got the brush-off instead.   that's when I found the Testor's  'basic'  decal maker kit.  in the kit was a can of decal bonder.......if I knew of this stuff ahead of time,  I could have saved the rest of the decals......especially the waterline markers.   to get those markers,  I printed off about six copies of the decal sheet  {clear film},  and traced over them with a white paint marker.   took about that many tries to get a passable set of markers.

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Oh year the Revell Cutty,


did this one too when I was twelve. I was proud like a pair of socks in those days because of the painting I did and which I found IMPACCABLE ...










... and some Vic-business from those glorious days ...


















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ahhhh.....memories....they bring you back,  don't it  :)   I have three ships that are still around since I picked the hobby back up.....before I got into wood kits.   I always say that they are the best barometer of your experience level.....I can see my paint has improved  :)


sometimes I miss plastic.......I have the United States,  that I need wood for,  and I have the Lindberg Jolly Rodgers.......I look forward to fooling around with these some day soon.........got to clear the smoke I created first though ;)


one of my biggest problems with the decal maker is the transparency issue.  I think I need to find a printer that will go over 600 DPI.  I have an HP deskjet F2480 w/ scanner.   I have the Testor's  'decal it'  decal maker standard edition {I sent out for it}.   the basic one will not allow you to import images into it.  the standard edition will allow you to do that.   I've been scanning all kinds of stuff....stencils and the like,  import them in,  and size them down.   it will even bend the text and you can change the font to anything you want......get some really fancy placards and stuff that a way ;)

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I think I will still have to come to the decals topic one day too - the fire buckets on the poop are still waiting ...


Something I did not show yet properly that could be beneficial too for other scales and ships are the plate of eyebolts and hooks ...





 ... and one with extra fine gratings for the launches ...




... the backside of course with the visible battens ;-)




Cheers Daniel

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Thank you Eddie your wish is my command :-)



In the meantime I did some more shots for the assembly instructions, that I don´t wont you to withhold from you ..
The flaglockers ...
... the new bucket holders with longer handles ...
... and the buckets in place.
The funnel has a better appearence by now ...
... as the new gratings have :-)
The gunport fittings were fixed with double sided tape onto the table. The fittings were glued on using the connection bit ...
... a needle pricks the hole  ...
... for the rings ...
... and here all versions with the required number of inside rings.
Interesting are the lids in the very front and back ...
... very tilted :-)
Holding the lid inside the port, sliding slightly downwards, using the needle to mark the holes, drill them with 0,5 mm, plug in ...
... and done :-)
The fittings need to be shortened on the top, but I needed it for the open versions.
And now the two top decks, once closed ...
... and once opened with the gun behind.
Have a good night, Daniel
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Great! These pictures are perfect to show the advantges of photo etched parts imo. Sure it's kinda different character compared to selfmade brass stuff (whats impossible in this scale) but it has it's own soul. Love it!





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Thanks Popeye, and Dirk


it is quite interesting and intriguing to see the difference on the gun port lid fittings as soon as you look closer.


That each lid has his own and unique form is quite well known: the curve of the deck, the cutting though the whales and the doubling of this planking in combination with the vertical frames.


Also the Navy-Board defined the size of the gun ports by the calibers. But just the intended ones while building so that a later change in ordonance was leading to inconsistencies in the caliber/size ratio.


Also the details are interesting. Todays Vic in P shows five different versions.


- The lower deck has the small build in vent scuttles. For practical reasons I do believe, that the hinge should point forwards, for that waves slamm this small lid close and no open. So we have a starboard and port version. Two lanyards and two eyebolts on the inside for good and secure lashing when shut

- The middle deck is much the same, with no vent scuttles: Also two lanyards and two eyebolts on the inside 

- The upper gun deck had much smaller ports, here we have two lanyards and just one eyebolt on the inside

- The Lids on the quarter deck cabins have two versions:

             - the classical lid with just one lanyard and also one eyebolt on the inside

             - and the half lids opening sideways in the area of the channels too protect the deadeyes from the fire (if I understood right)


Yes Dirk, thank you, no matter the material one uses, with a little bit of soul applied it could look like this:



Cheers, Daniel
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