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HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...

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As the set of my etch parts is already with me and almost ready to be distributed, I am still trying out the last production samples just to make sure everything really fits and also refining my own skills and technics.


To prepare the locks I worked hard to cut off the small bit that fixes it to the frame. Also handling and positioning was quite difficult as the parts are tiny.


The first idea was to use this bit it as a connector pin :-) So a small hole drilled into position which makes positioning and glueing easier and the lock more stable afterwards. After breaking two 0,4 drills, I got the second idea: Why drilling? A needle does the job better and faster ...


... so a needle fixed in a tooth pick ...




... a small well positioned acupuncture and then using fine pliers instead of tweezers ...




... got it fast and safe on the spot. The fine pliers do not have the tendency to send things into the parallel universes as much as tweezers do :-)




Also tried out an alternative to the rings on the breech using etch rings instead of wire. Also a great way with the needle to prepare the fixing holes. Depending to the knowledge and skill of the modeler, the rings can be made a tad more even like this than using wire.






And also trying out other ways of working on difficult parts, here the back of a blade in a clamp for bending the bucket holders on the poop.





Edited by dafi
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So last night´s tinkering ...


... the spectecal plates of the rudder ...




... the new poop skylight with bending help in the back ...




... roof curved by rolling with a wooden stick over a soft surface ... 




... and especially round roof and right number of windows ;-).




The fighting top with lantern holder...




... and the stun´sail boom fittings.






Cheers, Daniel
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very nice photo etch Daniel.......I really like what your doing with it.   I was thinking the other day about the advances kits have made since the 60's and 70's.   through modeler's inputs......a lot of detail has been added,  that was otherwise unheard of back in the day.   I think they would do quite well,  in taking note on what your doing for future kits ;)

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Thank you Popeye,


but I think the etch and the new wealth of details is only one thing. More important is not to loose the soul of a model over all this tinkering.


Actually I prefere a well build oob with the right heart and soul over a overdetailed "supermodel" that is lacking the smell of the seaside.


Nether the less I try both, soul and interesting details, lets see which stories still will araise to be told.


Three cheers on modelmaking, Daniel

Edited by dafi
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So tinkertime goes on ...


... the funnel on the forecastle ...






... flaglocker, I opted for the closed one ...




... and the boom saddle and the rack for the pins on the mizzen :-)






The belaying pins stay hand-worked ;-)


Cheers, Daniel

Edited by dafi
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You prefer oob?

Sometimes I wonder......

You could have finished at least four well build (above average, I'm sure) oob's in all your tinkering time.


I have to say: I'm still wondering were this mega-project will lead us....



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The most tricky part so far, the boarding pikes holders:


First glueing two rings atop of each other, the needles making sure, that the holes of the upper ring will be lined properly ...




... while the one on the bottom has pocket holes.




Then putting both rings over the mast ...




... and cutting the same amount of holes on both rings away until the diameter fits properly. Taking a pike and sorting out the heights for that the beautiful point of the spear does not disappear in the ring. Then glueing first the inside of the upper ring onto the rubbing pouch and let dry well. Afterwards bend into place and fix it on the other side and in the back. 




Use one pike for the alinement of the two rings and fix the bottom ring also in two steps. Then take out the pike and bend carefully straight and horizontal and glue it to its final position ...




... and fill with the boarding pikes. 




With a tad of color and rope it could look like this :-)




As I always moan about the Prince of Wales´ feathers, it is time to sratch them off and replace them by a cute five piece crown - a pure dafinistique hypothesis :-) ...




... and fix some more stable lamp holders.




Amicalement, Daniel

Edited by dafi
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Those feathers were almost present at Trafalgar - being part of the stern decoration of the HMS Prince of Wales but at this moment on the way home with Calder on his own flagship to face court martial because of his tactics at Cape Finisterre,...


When the PoW was demolished in about 1822, those feathers were fixed afterwards onto the Vic and stayed there ever since.


This is well known, the only thing is, what was there before? The Livesay drawing not really define this place, but as todays side entries also present the coat of arms with a crown in the center, and as the figure had had the crown too, it seemed to me the most logical guess. 


Any other guesses or solutions always welcome to be discussed :-)



Edited by dafi
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I do not think it was empty, as there was something meant to be for heraldic reasons.


I my understanding is right, those three feathers are not just feathers, but a crown crowned with tree feathers. So they might have switched a plain crown by one with three feathers, which would go with the strict heraldic rules of those days.



Edited by dafi
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Just to show, not everything turned out perfect in the first go. Here a trial with open flag lockers: Too much space on the plate, too complicated in assembly and most importend: too little sex-appeal as it looks horrid!




So being eliminated with no hesitation for V2 and adding other more sexy goodies instead ...




... so, the bell can be rang :-)



Edited by dafi
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Very nice Mr. Dafi. But what is the craftsmanship behind adding photo-etched material to your ship? the twelve hours you stuck to your computer? The 30 seconds you feel like the pimp when showing it off here? I am sure we can afford: ....having the whole ship CNC milled and show it around. It will be more accurate and cleaner than anything you did and presented before. But is that the aim?  

I am sorry to say but i get bored to see how your glueing and presenting industry-produced pieces to your ship after having enjoyed to watch your ideas before for a long time. Everyone of us can order a photo- or whatever etched piece or whole ship somewhere in internet.

It`s nice of you that you show your self drawn and ordered bell holder to us. Mr. Saemann did a really need job. But it dissapoints me in a way........ to whom the bell tolls. I know it may be hard for you to take criticism, but...you lost a follower. 



Edited by Hyposphagma
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Sorry Harry I did not intend to bore you,


it is in a way the months of research behind and the joy of developing and sharing the parts. It came out naturally as result of all those trials I did all along my way :-)

It was a tad more then 12 hours and will provide some help to modelers who just want do do some modeling without to much research. Even though this is still the kit section, the most important in modelmaking is not just to glue things together, but even more important is  to give a soul to a model - and this no etch part can help the modeler.


Greetings, Daniel :-)

Edited by dafi
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So the before last part, and I keep the usual length, as always the showing how to was the important, not just showing the end results.


So here comes the revised binnacle.
Well chucked the grooves on the backside provide help in placing and bending :-)
Using a hard and crisp tool to bend ...
... loosened after the first step, a doubled paper being put underneath for a tad of extra height, retracted the paper and by rolling with a wooden rod the corners are subdued into perfection.
The most tricky is always the last bent. Here for I used Tesa double sided tape to fix the part on the table and inserted a 3 mm Plexi and bending the brass over it - I love when dafi´s well planned brainfarts work out well ;-)
Then using fine pliers to adjust the corner´s angles ...
... and we are awarded with a nice and crisp box :-)
The lid for the small funnel is formed using a center punch.
The inner table should not be too much of a problem after all this :-) Cutting out the binnacle´s top, stacking the layer cake compasses, and adding the needed extra parts: evergreen rod 2 mm for the lantern (a toothpick will be ok too), 1 mm Evergreen rod for the funnel, a 0,2 mm sheet for the inner base (cardboard will work also), 2 Rings for the bracing onto the deck and transparent film for the windows ...
... and just fixed :-)
Left the etch-binnacle Mark 1, in the middle the new one with now crisp drawers and right the also rivised rudder column, now with crisp lawrels :-)
All the best, Daniel
Edited by dafi
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Hello Davi

Forgive me if I missed this earlier somewhere in this build thread. I have looked it over and have to ask something about your photoetching. Are you planning to sell this photoetch as a set, or multiple sets to the public? Or is it all strictly for your own use? Your work is astounding, and I have been following it for a little while now, though I admit I am a latecomer to this thread. I have been building plastic ship models all my life, and am no amateur, but my friend, You have sent us all back to school!! Please tell me that you are selling this photoetch. I am currently working on a Vic for myself. That Poop Deck Skylight is wonderful, and I have been dreading having to try and assemble that plastic garbage for a while now. Thank you for inspiring me.

Best regards


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And by the way, what makes the Vic so interesting?


Very clear - maaaaaaaaaany biiiiiiig guns, very maaaaaaaaaacho ;-)


Therefor I ask for your forgiveness as I almost forgot the most biiiig, maaaaaaaaale and maaaaacho gun ....




... biiiiig things ...


... really big ...


... the dafi


... more soon :-)
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So the last part of the etch orgy: the channel chains.


Here the old mark 1 ...




... and as I believed that this was still too big here the refined mark 2.




And here some more details :-)


Either fixed on Heller´s deadeye-machine where the lanyards could be fixed before assembly ...




... or - as I personally prefere - the deadeyes being first build in and the lanyards being put later while rigging as on the original.




Deadeye with iron put into the slot and the lower parts hooked in.






Needels put into the Dremel and either ground by a file or the Double-Twin-Super-Drive-Technology to reduce the head in diameter and height ...




... left the original and the right the worked ones ...




... inserted half ...




... some cyano onto the needle and gentle pushed in.
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Some helping "shrouds" to straighten the parts ...




... and glue the irons into the slot.






The main channels got the missing iron support bracket - ok it is brass now - ...




... and the preventer chain plates are added on the bottom ...




... but aside this it is almost business as usual :-)








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