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It was interesting to find out that “The Peterboro Canoe” was named due to the association with Peterborough, Ontario. There was a time almost any wooden canoe In the traditional Canadian style, that is, one basically having the appearance of the woodland bark canoe of the North American Indian, could be referred to as “a Peterboro” certainly a rich history with these canoes. So here is a kit I purchased on eBay for less than $50, well worth the hours of entertainment.
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Well, I was gonna skip doing a build log for this project because I intended to just make a quick SIB for my niece as a gift. But I got a little nudge from @Keith Black and @Knocklouder to start one, so we’re going to jump into this thing in progress. I’m almost done building the ship but much work remains inside and outside the bottle. The Backstory Some time ago, my brother received a $200 bottle of scotch as a gift and just recently gave me the bottle. Of course, the bottle was empty just like the Kraken rum bottle I got from a friend last year 😠. I need to choose better friends and brothers I guess. My brother has a daughter named Jenny, so I thought it would be cool to find a ship named Jenny and make a SIB as a gift. I started looking around to see if there were any interesting ships named Jenny. The only one I could find was one called the "Ghost Ship Jenny". Of course that intrigued me right away. Ghost Ship Jenny The Jenny was an early 1800’s 3-masted English schooner. In 1822, she left her home port on the Isle of Wight in southern England for a journey to Callao, Peru on the western coast of South America. Late in the year, unbeknownst to anyone, she got trapped in ice on the return trip while navigating the Drake Passage between the southern tip of Chile and Antarctica. Seventeen years later (1839), a whaling boat named Hope was navigating the Drake passage and spotted a large schooner drifting among broken ice floes. The Hope’s captain and several crew members rowed over to the ship and boarded her. They discovered it was the long-lost Jenny. The entire crew was found dead with their bodies well preserved by the cold. Many of the forgotten crew were still lying in their hammocks. The Jenny’s captain was frozen at his desk hunched over his last log entry, “May 4, 1823. No food for 71 days. I am the only one left alive.” Real story or Fake News? Adding to the intrigue is the fact that there's a lot of uncertainty about whether the story is true or a just a chilling legend. Jenny’s tragic plight was written about in several periodicals during the 1840’s, but none of the publications cited specific sources that referenced either the Jenny or the Hope. There is also speculation that Jenny’s story was, perhaps, a retelling of another event that happened to a ship named Octavius that was found near Greenland 50 years earlier, both sharing remarkably similar circumstances, albeit in a different century and opposite end of the globe. Ghost Ship Jenny the SIB So I thought that was compelling enough for the subject of a SIB. There aren't any pictures of the Jenny to build from (since no one is certain she was even real) so I've got a lot of artistic license. There also don't appear to be a lot of 3-masted schooners from that time, but I did find a painting of what looks like an 1800s era 3-masted schooner as well as an early 1900s Dutch one called the Oosterschelde, both of which I am using as a guide for my Jenny. My idea is to show the Jenny inside the bottle trapped by small icebergs. I want her to looked like she's been stranded there for many years, so I’m shredding and smudging her sails to give them a tattered look as well as trying to figure out other ways to make her look ravaged by the cold and weather. Here’s a couple of pics I’m using as a rough idea for a ship trapped in ice and tattered sails. The penguins are feeling right at home and clamoring loudly to horn their way into this build. I've held them off for now, but not sure if I can for much longer...
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The Seguin From the BlueJacket website: “Historic wooden tugboat, 1884. Built in Bath, ME, the Seguin spent her first years towing wooden sailing vessels in the Kennebec River and towing cargo barges along the Atlantic coast. In the early 1900’s, she became a New York harbor tug, finally returning to an active career in Maine until retiring in 1967”. Why I picked this kit I’ve wanted to try my hand at a Radio-Controlled kit, and while there are far easier kits on the market for a RC first - timer I was really attracted by how good this boat looks, so that even if the RC side is a bust, it should still look nice on the shelf. Since this boat will be waterborne it will be a challenge to get her watertight so I will be leaping into fiberglass, or at least resin - I will have to decide that after the hull is planked. RC I will try to remember to put a green “RC” (like at the start of this paragraph) at the beginning of any paragraph dealing with RC or waterproofing related so that those not interested in those parts can eye-scroll past them. References: Build logs, websites and online forums Building the George W. Washburn: regroups.com>forums>boats>scale boats>building the George W. Washburn a decent build log of a Dumas POF steam tug similar to SEGUIN, has some decent waterproofing and RC info RC Deans marine.co.uk RC and waterproofing info scattered about RC Ship modelers.com>technical library RC info RC MSW build logs (not the SEGUIN) that have decent RC and/or fiberglassing info a. gjdale’s 1949 Chris Craft b.mtdoramike’s 1954 Chris Craft Build logs for the BlueJacket kit a. RC rcgroups.com>Seguin by ropanach b. Model Ship World, Seguin 1884 by RVCHIMA great log of a gorgeous build of this kit, if mine turns out half as good as his I will be happy c. shipsofscale.com >forums (note: anyone can view the site but the photos are thumbnails, if you register on the site you can click on them and blow them up to usable size) both of the logs below are useful for pointing out some problems to avoid 1) Seguin by anchorman 2) Bluejacket Seguin by pathfinder69 RC There is a ton of websites you can find by googling “rc boats” or “fiberglassing rc boats” of varied quality and usefulness but worth some time to look around and bookmark the ones you like. Books: RC in Model Boats by John Cundell. Has a photo of the Seguin on the cover (might be the old Laughing Whale kit) Decent book found on Amazon for about $8. About half the book is dedicated to less relevant things like the history of the hobby, how RC clubs work, high speed RC racing boats, etc but it helped give me a better understanding of what to think about when installing RC equipment What’s in the Box? The kit provides 2 large, clear sheets of plans and an instruction book There is an assortment of dowels, strip wood and name board stickers A set of paper flags A bag of Britannia metal fittings, some sheet brass and a little photo-etch brass There is a fair amount of laser-cut wood of various thicknesses and pre-scribed deck planking material There is also some very detailed laser cut wood of 2 different types of wood that give the deckhouse its unique look. Next post I will show the RC equipment I ordered for this build
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Well today is box opening day, I have peeked a few times thought. Lol. I chose this Amati Mayflower model because of wood work and overall look. Many of the Mayflowers I looked at are Mayflower ll, they seem to have a lot of colours on them, for me its a bit too flashy for my likes. I dont see any other Amati Mayflowers logs so this will be my attempt to build one. It is so good to know if I run into any problems MSW will have the answers, slowly and I mean slowly getting to know my computer and how it work here on MSW.. Thanks ever so much !!!!!! Well got to go set things up for the build wish me luck lol ,one thing I noticed was that there was two bags full of dead eyes LOL the fun never stops . This hobby is so much fun ,does everyone get excited on box opening day then build days then finishing day, then NEW kit day lol 😆 Again thanks MSW for steering me in the right direction so glad to be a small part, see you buddy's got ships to build
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HMS Indefatigable 1794 The Prologue. I find myself once again beguiled by that modeller’s honeypot known as Vanguard models and I finally succumbed to Chris’s latest offering, having mulled it over for several weeks. Why the wait, wots not to like, some may say, but this will be the largest project I have undertaken since Norske Løve way back in the 1980’s. Indefatigable is about the same hull size as Norske Løve, (1:70 scale) but not so tall. It will still demand a sizeable display area. As with my Sphinx build this will be Navy Board style, I’ve no room for masting and rigging, and I have developed an affection for the look. I opted for the basic kit as all the masting, rigging line, and block work will not be used, simply added to my ever-growing pile of discarded kit parts. If I decide to add stump masts my preferred material is Ramin. From a preliminary assessment I don’t think Chris has left me much to fiddle with. He has addressed the issue of realistic Quarter galleries, the provision of Lodging knees, and a properly fitted out Great Cabin, complete with Rudder housing. He has solved the issue of lower deck cannons coming adrift early in a build, and the stern decoration and Figure are wonderfully sculpted. In terms of authenticity this kit hits the spot and is what in the end persuaded me to go for it. As with Sphinx I will be taking a minimalist paint approach, and will look to represent the ochre band along the gunport line more subtly, using natural woods. It was the all-painted hull that also delayed my decision; authentic as it is, I prefer the natural beauty of wood on a model of this type, and I needed to have a clear idea of the approach in my mind. The makings are expected to arrive on Tuesday, and I will be working the initial stages of the build in conjunction with my current Medway project. B.E. 05/03/2023- 636 replies
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Building log for beam trawler Harvard 01 The beginning I am in the middle of a deep dive into the study of one our Boothbay Region shipyards, most often known as Rice Brothers. As part of that study, I will likely include three builds and this one is the second. The Rice brothers’ father started building smaller boats about 1892. As the three sons came of age, they dove into ship building and took over from Dad. They formed the firm of Rice Brothers by 1903 and with three brothers expanded quickly. One Brother Frank split away in 1906 and continued on the property with a lumber yard, small boats service, cars and several other ventures. By 1910 the main firm was making their own small motors. They also set up a production capability making multiple class boats, both sail and motor. The traditional Maine built schooner based workflow continued as well, and in 1912 they launched the B B Crowninshield designed aux schooner Adventuress that sails today out of Port Townsend, Washington. Let’s see what’s up. 01 here we see a 1903 panorama of East Boothbay, Me. On the left we start with Race point with a pier for the steamship Enterprise, next we have the properties that were changing hands from Murray to the Rice family starting in 1892. The small yard was on the far side but quickly took over the whole pier where the steamship landed. Next on the right is a mixed area of sail loft, mast/spar maker, another yard that had been active since 1840. Next is the framing of the 4 masted schooner, Eleanor F Bertram being built by W I Adams. In the foreground we have the Hodgdon yard where many schooners were being built at that time. 02 here we are looking south from the water to the large addition to the Rice brothers shop [light colored siding] built in 1910. This expansion allowed class boat and production line style of work. 03 here inside we see a whole fleet of 30-foot racing schooners being built. There are similar photos showing runs of their motor launches and other yacht club one designs being built as a fleet as well. 04 here is an opportunity right now on Marketplace to buy a 1901 Rice brothers engine made into a table. 05a &b here is a photo of Adventuress as she was launched in 1912 and a recent internet photo of her as a featured schooner in Washington state. In 1916 they got their first order to build in steel. The Lightship Poe. She was well along, and orders came in for Steel draggers too. There were ultimately 6 large steel hulls to build. 6 Here we see further expansion in 1916 and preparation as they won their first contracts to build in steel. Oh no a huge fire in the summer of 1917. The losses were terrible. More than 40 completed boats ready to deliver went up as they were stored inside. Outside the lightship Poe was totally ruined. 7. here looking across the smoldering hull we see the empty building frame. 8 look at the deformation cause by the intense heat. 9 from the shore it is clear a new start is needed. 10 we end this chapter on a good note as we see the following year the shop was rebuilt and work continues. All for now
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Hello, I got this model for Christmas, stocking stuffer. Actually I got two this one and a Viking Iron star 1:100 scale but I think it's smaller lol. No glue, just needle nose pliers and side cutter. Which I thought would be different no glue , deadeyes , sails or BOTTLE LOL. You get two sheets of metal to take the peices off. After studying the plan a bit , it looked like I just had to follow along number by number..It shows you were to twist it on and were to fold the little tabs at a 90 degree angle. So away I go. First this is not a metal model it's tin foil lol. And did I mention tiny. Lol. After five pieces the deck and rigging were done . I used a paper towel tube to form the hull and snaped it on and called it a night. So I will finish tomorrow . This is a fun one lol
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A lovely package arrived from Vanguard Models arrived the other day. I have built ships boats and some of the deck furniture from Vanguard but this will be the first of Chris’s ship models that I have built and I was excited to get started. The box contains a comprehensive (70 page) photo-illustrated building manual, 11 sheets of plans and part diagrams as well as numerous sheets of mdf, pear-wood, PE brass, strip wood, dowels and stand on which to display the finished model. Andrew (AJohnson) has already posted photos of the contents of the box so I won't repeat it here. The build starts by making a cradle for the initial stages of building up the hull structure. It looks delicate but is more robust than it appeared when removed from the mdf sheet. The bulkheads drop nicely into the keel without any need for sanding. I found it easiest to begin the preliminary sanding of the bow section bulkheads with parts 15 and 16 fitted (but not glued) in place. Once bevelled parts 15 and 16 are put aside until later. Chris’s manual shows the bulkheads being bevelled using a Dremel. I’m not so brave but it doesn’t take long to sand them back by hand. The stern assembly is next up and once glued and sanded back, it required a little bit of easing to slot into the keel. The centre-line patterns are given as 14 in the book but are numbered as 23 on the parts themselves. I fitted and glued the lower deck (part 25). Belatedly, I then decided to put some strips of planking down the centre line. They probably won’t be visible when the final deck is in place but I may want to have some of the hatches open. Once the longitudinal bracing parts are slotted and glued in place the whole structure firms up nicely. I sanded and applied a couple of coats of matt varnish to the deck beams and ledges before gluing them in place. The stern frames are next to be added but first I sanded off the char from the parts that are later to be painted. Part 85 is the inner layer of the stern transom and the book advises that the design was changed to make it less delicate, however I still managed to crack it when I removed it from the sheet. Luckily it didn’t break in two so I was able to glue it and no harm done. The inner stern counter pattern is fitted next. I gave it a quick dip in water and clamped it in place and left it to take up the slight curve of the hull. Other builders of Vanguard kits have said how well they go together and HM Trial is no exception. The kit is very well thought out and goes together without any need to fiddle around sanding back bulkhead slots or worrying that everything is square and correctly fitted. The last couple of days have been a joy. David
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While working on my latest model, HM Cutter Trial from Vanguard Models, I realised that it would be a good idea to have some further practice in hull preparation and planking before embarking on another full ship project. I’m hoping that this project will teach me some new techniques and help me make a better job of planking than I have previously. I am using the suggested ¼” foam-board as a base on which to build and used spraymount to glue the body plan to it. Laying out the keel, keelson stem and stern, it is clear that some trimming and fitting of the bow keelson is needed The whole kit is made in basswood making it pretty easy to cut and sand. The risk is taking off too much so slow and easy is the rule. Once the stemson is cut to length and sanded to fit the keelson lines up pretty well with the drawing. I didn’t need to fettle any of the slots for the bulkhead on the main keelson but the bow keelson required a bit of a tickle with a sanding stick. The rabbet is marked up with a pair of compasses. I measured the thickness of the sheets provided for planking which varied between 0.85 and 0.99mm. I took 0.9 as a rough mean and marked the rabbet. I used a chisel to remove the rough, then a file and finally scraped it clean with a razor blade. The keel and keelson were straightforward as a simplified 45º angle was used for the whole length. The stem is a little more difficult to do with a changing angle as the rabbet rises up the the stem pieces. However the manual provided and Toni’s log Half Hull Planking Project - Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos - Model Ship World™ provide plenty of useful detail and photos to help work it out Once the rabbet is cut, the keel and stem pieces can be glued up. I have used minimal glue to fix the pieces to the board to make it easier to remove the model when completed. At this stage the deadwood and stern pieces are not glued . David
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Ciao a tutti, Ho realizzato lo scaletto e sinceramente è stato abbastanza difficile essenzialmente per due motivi. Il primo motivo: l'utilizzo della linea del ponte per realizzare la dima di pontuale per i riferimenti delle coste e la seconda dima per il cassero sovrapposta alla precedente. Il secondo motivo: il disegno in pianta del ponte, questa misura non tiene conto del cavallino del ponte, quindi se avessi utilizzato questo disegno senza le dovute modifiche delle quote in lunghezza avrei ottenuto sulla dima di pontuale con una sagoma più corta di circa 5mm. Alcune foto dello scaletto. Se notate da una parte ho messo il disegno con la chiglia a pari e nell'altra foto si vede quanto il disegno è stato allungato. Hi everyone, I realized the ladder and honestly it was quite difficult essentially for two reasons. The first reason: the use of the bridge line to create the pontic template for the rib references and the second template for the formwork overlapping the previous one. The second reason: the plan drawing of the bridge, this measure does not take into account the pony of the bridge, so if I had used this design without the due changes in the dimensions in length I would have obtained on the pontual template with a shorter shape of about 5mm. Some photos of the ladder. If you notice on one side I put the design with the keel on the same level and in the other photo you can see how long the design has been stretched Dima di pontuale finita Scaletto Qui ho posizionato la dima del cassero Un Salutone a presto- 417 replies
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Welcome to my first building log! Over a year ago i started building Lady Nelson from Amati. It is my second attempt to build wooden ship. Bit late but anyway I decided to share building progress with You. Unfortunately I haven't documented early stages of construction. First photos I made below. The hull is ready and painted. I like detail so first of them that I have made to this stage: rudder Maciek
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Hello all. It's my first post here so a little about myself. Like many here, I suspect, I returned to the model hobby in my late twenties after a hiatus of 15 yrs or so. Since then I have made a number of wooden vessels, from kits, and I also very much enjoy bringing plastic kits mechanically to life - which is the main theme of my Youtube channel 'Gonzo mechanic'. This current project was spurred by reading about the naval campaigns of World War Two. I was fascinated to find out that the Duke of York (Capt. Guy Russell) took on and destroyed the Scharnhorst at night, in an Arctic storm, with gunnery controlled entirely by radar. Before reading about this, I had not realised that such a thing was possible in this period of the war. Indeed, it turns out Russell specially trained his gunnery teams to fight at night having discovered weaknesses in night-time drill during his time on the Nelson. Unluckily for the crew of the Scharnhorst, the Royal Navy presented the right man with right ship in the right place at the right time. I had planned to convert the Tamiya Prince of Wales to show the Duke of York in her post '44 re-fit form as the amount of anti-aircraft weaponry was truly awe inspiring: 12 pom-pom mounts (!) 2 quadruple bofors mounts and eight or so twin powered oerlikon turrets plus numerous single emplacements for the same weapon. It almost seems a pity this was never tested. However, over time, I decided to do the more familiar 1943 look as this is a rare example of a paint scheme mainly intended for fighting fight in the dark of the Arctic winter when the Russia convoys tended to run. Having bought an addtional KGV kit to borrow the waist boat platform I decided to build this later and she will form a later posting. Sources So what did she actualy look like? I bought the KGV series book by Witold Koszela and a book of drawings of the DoY by the same author. I also found this site https://www.naval-history.net/xGM-Chrono-01BB-Duke of York.htm which turned out to be vital. Finally, there are the pictures from the IWM website of which the series taken at Rosyth 'from the 100 ton crane' are easily the most important. However, beware pictures from the IWM site. Several turned out to be mirror images which resulted in quite a lot of wasted time. Some aspects of the ship are 'handed' - like the roof of the cabin abaft the main director and the mysterious little tub thing on the stbd. side of the forward superstructure and these need to be checked. Also the date appears to be wrong because on the 1 November 1943 the DoY was in Scapa not Rosyth. The pictures more likely date from around January to March that year. The Koszela material is helpful in many ways but many details are wrong or missing. We'll come to those later. Finally the Pontos set while also hugely helpful is also missing a number of items and is also wrong in detail in some places. In other words this project has required careful synthesis from disparate and sometimes conflicting sources. Some aspects remain unresolved and it will be most interesting to see if others here can shed light on them. It is, then, a source of some surprise that is can be so hard to piece together a reasonably faithful image of one of the largest warships the UK has ever put to sea - even within living memory. First up: the hull This, like all my plastic projects, is going to be rc so it can be filmed. There are various conversion kits for other vessels available but I decided to use my 3D printer to make a motor and servo mount. Anything to do with rc has to be maintainable because the first law of sod is that anything inaccessible will break first. In addition, and without disrespect to the many very fine modellers who use them this way, I could not face having the wooden deck show up with a 'real-world' 10" step - so joined the plastic deck together and cut a rebate around the edge so that it, with the wooden deck added, would fit flush with the hull sides. Here you can see the 3d printed motor mount and dog bones. I inserted small brass washers where the dog-bones met the mount. Stern glands Rudder pintle On the right you can see, just about the rebate cut into the under edge of the deck. This was a tiresome process involving a mini-router. N.B. the hull on the left is for the KGV hence stern windows but is otherwise identical to my DoY Next up: alterations to the forward superstructure.- 24 replies
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Unfortunately I did not discover this fantastic community until I was almost finished with my CSS Alabama build (wow, there's some incredible talent out here). I am done now with my build but thought I'd post my pictures and comments from the 8 months of harrowing work. This was my first attempt at a wooden ship model. Not sure why I thought I could do this since the only other models I've ever attempted were Revell plastic car models when I was a kid 50 years ago. But how hard could it be, right? It's just a kit, right? All you gotta do is follow the instructions and glue the parts together, right? Right, noob (as my son would say). Even though I'm done now, I would appreciate any comments/tips/advice on what I could have done better as I'll be doing another one of these things soon.
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Hi, I start the construction of a new model, it is the English frigate Euryalus, the scale that I adopt is 1:56, the usual 74 cannons🙂
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Hello colleagues Many modeler friends said to me that it would be nice to assemble a cardboard sailing ship, but rigging is generally too difficult. Therefore, a few years ago I asked Ab Hoving for an idea for a simple model with the simplest possible rigging, and I didn't have to wait long (2-3 hours) when a precise and immediately three-dimensional design of a "recreational yacht" appeared on my computer. ", i.e. "Speeljacht". This design is very similar to the commercially available plans drawn by Cor Emke. [url]https://www.modelbouwtekeningen.nl/nvm-1006017-speeljacht-volgens-nicolaas-witsen-167.html[/url] Recreation on the water was probably not an invention of the Dutch, because in the tomb of Tutankhamun an image of the pharaoh fishing on the Nile was found, which can be considered entertainment on the water. However, until the 17th century, sailing ships of various types fulfilled basically only commercial and war functions or were used for work, such as fishing. It was only when the trade in Asia enabled merchants to build great fortunes that yachts for entertainment appeared. Maybe it was then that "yachting" appeared as a way of spending time with family, friends or for business purposes. Not only did people relax by sailing for pleasure, but such expeditions were accompanied by delicious feasts, including plenty of drinks. Nicolaes Witsen even mentions a "beer house" under the aft deck. In addition to romantic trips, owning such a yacht meant prestige and/or wealth - a bit like modern billionaires and oligarchs. The decorations were chic, but not flashy. The Netherlands was a Calvinist country, so one had to be modest. There was usually a family coat of arms on the stern. A similar model was developed in wood by Kalderstock. And for the inquisitive and curious: the Clean2Anywhere Foundation has been experimentally recycling plastic for several years, building replicas of small historical yachts from it, including this speel yacht. Link to one of the videos where you can see the construction of a speel yacht: [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqrIHFulcZU&t=3s[/url] And how is my construction going? So quick and easy that I didn't take many photos, especially obvious stages like frame frames,... ...or "first - false planking" The retouched cardboard edges of decks has always "disgusted" me, so I experimented a bit and glued narrow strips on the visible edges, imitating the face of the boards. The stripe is 0.7 mm, my hand trembled a bit and it didn't turn out perfect, but I think it's a very good idea for the future. Since masking the edges like this has a future, I went ahead and played with the edges of the planks at the stern. There is also something to complain about, but that's my fault - I liked the idea itself. A large number of visible frames required tedious gluing and retouching, and initially I planned to glue them to the hull first and then continue covering them with the planks. Fortunately, before I started committing such stupidity, I changed my concept and built this component separately, finally gluing the finished one to the model. In total, in four stages: 2 amidships and 2 aft. The last layer of planks (in color) went very well, and of course the corrections were made on the edges that are covered with wales. This is how it turned out: Modest decorations (as I wrote at the beginning) will only be made of cardboard (no resin), so that the model is fully paper as standard. It was necessary to choose the coat of arms of some noble family. The final choice fell on the van Loon family, also because their "palace" still houses a popular museum.([url]https://www.museumvanloon.nl[/url]) That's it for now, only decorations, leeboards and very simple rigging remain. Regards Tomek
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This is my first build log on MSW , and second scratch built boat, both lockdown projects. Why Orca? It’s arguably the most iconic movie boat of all time, with all the associated romance of being a star in a huge film. It’s also a huge challenge, and a good test of the many modelling skills I have to learn to enable me to move on to more complex builds. Talking of romance, January 1st 1976 was the first date I had with my wife of 38 years – we went to the cinema – guess what we watched? So that’s why it has a special memories for me! The research for Orca has not been easy, despite there being a number of previous models built, with some excellent reference material available, and a fanatical fan base posting pictures. Her secrets are well hidden. As far as I can see there are no available plans of the original boat, Warlock, a Novi lobster boat typical of the Maine and Nova Scotia coasts, and only three photographs of her. Orca herself was sadly allowed to rot away, with only fragments remaining in the collection of fans, and in the memory of Joe Alves, the master production designer who transformed Warlock into Orca. The plans I’ve seen online for Orca are for an RC model, and whilst they are representative of Orca, they are not of the type of keel or hull nor accurate in the detail of the pilot house or foredeck when measured against stills of Orca from the film. I can find no images of Warlock or Orca’s keel, or shape below the waterline. The film images of Orca listing or sinking are of Orca II, a GRP copy, which had no keel, but a metal frame and barrels used to change the ballast as part of the effects. There are some differences between Orca I and II which can confuse, not least that Orca II’s mast is off-centre. So there is some detective work and guesssork involved. I have studied the plans of other lobster boats available, and there are some You Tube clips and galleries online of lobster boat construction. Orca has distinctive stem, straight to the waterline, unlike many lobster boats which have a continuously curved stem. These images of Warlock show what I mean: The first decision therefore is whether the hull is built-down or skeg-built. The latter is found in traditional wooden lobster boats, creating a shallower flatter hull section. However this usually required the engine to be higher necessitating a box or step up platform in the pilot house. Warlock had (surprisingly) a 4-cylinder petrol (gas) engine, but no box – the pilot house floor was the same level as the aft deck, suggesting a built down hull… As lobster boats moved from sail to power the hull design changed from a true displacement to a longer wider semi-displacement shape. They had a flatter aft but retained the keel and skeg to protect the prop and rudder and allow them to come right up on a ledge at slow speed, for example: It’s unlikely that Warlock had the horsepower to get the hull beyond displacement speed, and certainly she did not have a flared bow, but a softer chine suggesting she did not cruise that fast, and the flatter after section will have kept her prop deeper in the water, helpful in a following sea. I have chosen therefore to make her as a semi displacement hull, with a skeg built after section. The engine is assumed to be small enough to be enclosed below the pilot house decking. I will attempt to use the same method of build as the real boat, that is to assemble the stem, keel, keelson, prop shaft and hook, then attach temporary frames and ribbands before fitting steam bent ribs, then carvel planking up from the keel before removing the frames and ribbands. The whole process being illustrated beautifully here: https://wlb3.smugmug.com/Maine/JBBC I will credit and draw on the large volume of research already available though other model builders logs, and also from the upcoming series of You Tube postings of Master Shipwright Louis Sauzedde who is planning to rebuild Orca in his workshop on Rhode Island see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-myybwQLeM&ab_channel=TipsfromaShipwright Of course much of this work will be hidden in the finished model, but authenticity is clearly important. I may well stand corrected, but I think If I manage this , it will be the first model of Orca built in this way. I would be very pleased to hear from makers of previous models on this methology. After the hull is planked, and deck fitted, the challenge is to reproduce the film prop complete with all the artifacts and weathering. Don’t expect to see much at first, I still have lots to research before I start. I hope this build will help others contemplating this build, and I encourage criticism from the many experts on this forum whose work is so inspiring! I have a small Delta band saw, scroll saw and hand power drills. Other than that this will be done by hand tools. All materials will be from wood and other stuff I have in my store, most of which is recyled. Finally no sharks will be harmed in the making of this Orca.
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Hi all, I’m 17 years old and this is my first ever model ship I’ve built. I thought I would share my progress. I wanted to build a model ship for a while but didn’t know where to start. I eventually settled on the Colonial Brig Perseverance 1807. It seemed like the right amount of difficulty while still being enjoyably challenging. I also bought the DVDs from modellers shipyard which have helped. I posted all these photos in one go up until I fitted the deck furniture. Up to that point it has taken 4 months. If there’s anything I’m doing wrong please let me know. Bulkheads glued, some of them were the wrong size so a bit of building up and shaping was needed. Fairing complete. Transom blocks glued. Shaping the transom blocks. Gluing upper transom blocks First plank being fitted. Temporarily clamping the plank in between the two planking bands for measurements. I just used the boiling water method for bending. First band complete. More planking. Second band completed. Commencing the third band of planking. First layer planking finished. It’s far from perfect, but I’m pretty happy with the result for the first time. planking all filled and sanded ready for second layer planking. Starting the deck planking, this is where I make my first big mistake. Somehow I forgot that the deck strips I was placing down were not lined up with the bulkheads. I only realised this after the deck was finished so I wasn’t going to remove them. I now know how to plank the deck properly on my next one. Starting second layer planking. I started off using PVA glue but it was too hard to hold while the glue set. I then moved to CA glue which was a pain to apply and also seeped through the grain making it stick more to your fingers than the ship, which pulls the plank away. I had a look at contact cement but seen too many bad reviews for model ships. So I just continued with CA glue but just adding a bit as I went. it also didn’t help that the mahogany was so brittle either. Any recommendations and/or tips would be much appreciated. Got there in the end. I definitely could do better as there are small gaps here and there but overall I thinks it’s ok. I definitely will not be using mahogany for planking ever again. Lightly sanding by hand. I applied 3 coats of sand-n-seal, then 5 coats of satin varnish. Transom cap steam bent and planked. It’s only planked on the inside for this moment. I didn’t know how to attach it other than nails. Once I glued it on I planked the outside. Gun whales and posts in place. Rudder attached. I made a mistake with the transom cap. I think it was supposed to be fitted at the same angle as the rudder post, if not it’ll hit the transom cap. I just added an extra piece to make it fit at a 90 degree angle. Figure head and transom decoration painted gold and fitted. Cargo ports cut and ready for frames. Cargo port frames installed. Bowsprit in place. Gluing most of the deck furniture. Cat heads in place. Anchors and cat head rigging finished. This is my progress so far.
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- Perseverance
- Modellers Shipyard
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Back in summer 2017 I scored a serious modelling injury - a deep cut in my left index finger that severed the nerves and nicked a tendon. The results were not only the immediate physical damage (despite surgery and physio I still have only very limited use of that finger and it still causes physical discomfort to bend the last knuckle), but also that my focus on modelling drifted in the extreme - a psychological barrier that I have found it much more difficult to overcome than the injury itself! My modelling hasn't stopped entirely, but the model I was working on when the injury happened has languished (I think I've spent maybe half a dozen days on it since the injury), and I have not been able to make much progress on the other project I have on the go - a 1:64 scale Bluenose scratch-built from the MS plans. I hope to finish both of these models one day, but I felt like I needed a smaller project just to get me back into the swing of modelling. I did not want to break open a new kit (I have quite a few on the shelf waiting) so I started looking for a good small project that I could dive into. Then last summer I stumbled across a site that I imagine some of the MSW crew are aware of - Off Centre Harbor out of Brooklin, Maine. OCH came up in a search for small boat kits (full size) and I discovered this great video series that follows the construction of a 14' rowing skiff, designed by Havilah Hawkins. The build was conducted by an OCH instructor and a group of what look like 7-12 year old kids. It was watching the kids build it that I think inspired me to have a go at modelling this and as an entry back into ship modelling. Here is a link to the first video in the series - the full set of videos is available only to OCH members - I joined and discovered quite a few useful and interesting resources, but am otherwise unaffiliated with them. https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/how-to-build-a-beautiful-skiff-part-1-introduction/ OCH makes the plans for this kit available at a reasonable price (40$) - and the 5 sheets (of varying scales but with all necessary offsets included) are accompanied by a wood list for the full scale boat that also serves as reference for modelling the skiff at scale. The video series shows an adaptation of the skiff for sail, but no plans for this are currently available. So in essence this build serves a couple of purposes - first (hopefully) to bootstrap me back into modelling and second to give a sense of how easy or difficult it might be to build one of these things full size at some point in the future. I'll be building the model at 1:12 (1" = 1') scale and following as much as possible, the process as outlined for the construction of the full sized boat - with some modifications. I'll close out this post with an image (cropped) of the profile and plan views of the skiff. Enjoy! hamilton
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The Fifie is a design of sailing boats that was a traditional fishing vessel used by Scottish fishermen from the 1850’s until well into the 1900’s. Their vertical stem and stern, long straight keel and wide beam made the Fifies very stable in the water. In the 1900’s many were converted to motorized craft. As and aside, this model will be the longest boat on my shelf when I am finished (at 27.5” long by 18.5” tall and 9.1” wide). As I progress in my boat building hobby, I am beginning to wonder where I will put all the boats I have built, and plan to build. I would like to know if you people are displaying all of your boats? I’m thinking my early creations will end up in a box in a closet, and my latest will be placed - . . . I don’t know where! . . . since I am running out of shelf space. The previous models are collecting dust, and I would like to continue building for many more years. I guess I will have to either buy enclosures or learn to build them. Still, the question stands - as to where I put them. Since the Fifie is larger than my previous boats, I need to determine my storage/display strategy very soon. I would like to know what all of you are doing with your boats! Back to the subject: the Kit itself looks like a quality set of components and instructions (so far).
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I'm back with a build log after a bit of an absence. I've had multiple health problems over the past year, which is in part why I didn't do a build log for my HMS Pegasus and why it took me so long to build it, being away from my shop for long periods of time. However, I seem to be in decent shape for the time being (touch wood) and am back at my workbench. In my hiatus I had been pondering what my next project would be when I stumbled across this model on the Billing website, and after a little bit more research I knew I had found it. This one appealed to me for several reasons: -I wanted something simpler than my last few builds had been -this one has almost no rigging! -it's a Canadian boat. I haven't seen any other one available as a model, apart from the Bluenose -it has a remarkable history - it's only the second boat to ever travel through the Northwest Passage and the first to make the trip twice - it's the first do make the voyage in under one year and it's the first to circumnavigate North America - it resides today at the Vancouver Maritime Museum, has been declared a National Historic Site and the great Stan Rogers recorded a song about it. -there are plenty of pictures and videos online to use as a reference -did I mention that it has almost no rigging? When I was in my 20's I built (very badly) a Billing model, but I don't recall if the quality of the kit was good or bad and I had no frame of reference in any case. So this is for all intents and purposes my first Billing kit and I have a mixed reaction to it. So far the good things are: -the laser cutting is very good and the bulkheads and centre keel fit together extremely well. They're as good as I have ever encountered. -there are quite few specialized brass fittings which are really nice and of good quality. -while the model is simplified, there are no glaring errors in its representation of the real boat. However, there are some negatives too: -there are too many poor quality plastic fittings which come on a sprue just like it was a plastic model car kit. -the hull and deck planking material is pretty rough and not very consistent in width. -while I did want a simpler model, there is too much simplification with this one. Built straight out of the box it would look like one of those gift shop ship models. At 1:72 it's large enough for the designer to have incorporated much more detail. -the plans are poorly drawn. The instruction book is all but useless, which is fine - I didn't expect it to be otherwise, but the plans are disappointing. They appear to be a 1:1 representation of the model, but they are very inaccurate. For example for some of the deck components there are discrepancies in size of up to 1/2" between the elevation and plan views. It's impossible to take measurements from the plan. Nevertheless, it's going to be lots of fun adding detail and upgrading many of the fittings. I currently have big orders in at BlueJacket and Cornwall. So far, I have the hull planked, in my usual "suitable for filler and paint" style. I'm a terrible planker, but I never worry about it because filler and paint are my best friends. I've used some planking from my stash, rather than the kit provided planking. I've made two improvements to the stern area. The kit instructions would have you just cut all of the planking off even at the last bulkhead before the stern. Then you add the two stern blocks and sand them even with the finished planking, leaving them unplanked, just to be painted. I chose to install the stern blocks first and plank over them in the usual way, however I found it to be quite a difficult stern to plank. Secondly, the kit provides for no opening to accept the rudder; it's meant to just butt up against the bottom of the hull. The real boat has a framed rectangular opening, so I added that detail. That's where I'm at! David
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- St. Roch
- Billing Boats
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A Ship-in-a-bottle has been on my “bucket list” for some time now. A little while ago, I was re-enthused about such a project when I saw Glen McGuire's excellent rendition of this kit. A heavy hint was dropped to my wife, who duly produced the kit for my birthday in November last year. Completion of another modelling project, the holiday season, and work on a new furniture project has kept me out of the shipyard until now. I will forgo the “unboxing” photos as there are several of these already on the forum. Suffice to say that the only item that immediately jumps out at me for replacement are the sails. These have heavy black lines drawn on them and they look nothing like the box art. I have asked the Admiral (an avid sewer) for some assistance in sourcing an appropriate replacement material. The Hull Building commences with the hull, which is assembled from a series of lifts. I have read in other build logs where some have found that these did not accurately match the 1:1 templates provided in the instructions, however I was pleased to find that in my kit at least, they were a very close match. These templates each have a couple of crosses on them, that I can only assume to be alignment marks. The instructions are silent on this point, and I do not recall reading in anyone else’s log where they have been put to use. The instructions simply invite you to assemble the lifts in numerical order, with no further guidance on alignment. I decided to make use of these marks to help align the lifts correctly. I scanned the 1:1 scale drawing, printed it and cut out the individual patterns. I then pasted these temporarily onto the lifts with a UHU glue stick and drilled a 0.8mm diameter hole through each of the reference marks. The paper templates were then peeled off, leaving the lifts ready to be assembled. I used two pieces of 0.8mm diameter brass rod to dry fit the lifts together. There are several more lifts to be added under the stern, but these will be fitted in two pieces to accommodate the keel. This seems to have been a reasonably successful process, so I will now go ahead and glue them up. It feels good to be back at the bench!
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A bit of a departure, but I was at an IPMS show in Sanford ME this spring, and decided to build a model to enter next year. Not anything too complex, like Cutty Sark of Constitution. This kit seemed perfect, and with just a little kit-bashing should produce a good model.
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Hello Model Ship World members. I’m Reece and I'm a new boat modeler. I decided to start my start my journey with the Model Shipways Shipwright Series. The first build is the Lowell Grand Banks Dory. I don’t have all the pictures from this build but I have a fair amount and wanted to post this for those that may be looking for references in the future. I thought this was a great introduction to ship modelling and thoroughly enjoyed my time spent on the project. I definitely learned a thing or two and look forward to applying those to my next build in the series. Here are some of the steps I struggled with on this build and how I corrected them: I had trouble aligning the bottom/stem/transom assembly with the frames and building board. This is something I should have spent much more time on because it ultimately affected the outcome of the planking. I should have spent some more time getting the stem and transom holders securely placed. Some slop here caused the transom to not be exactly perpendicular to base of the building board and resulted in the planks being slight asymmetric when viewed from the bow. I ended up just sanding this as best I could and the planks are slightly uneven. Lesson learned for next time for sure. My seat risers were slightly off and had to be removed and reattached as it made the thwarts out of level. I tried to thread the beckets without applying CA to the tips first. This caused me to waste an entire section as it unraveled before my eyes. I was able to salvage this step with the remaining pieces by dividing the remaining rope in half and giving myself extra material to work with beyond the recommended 4" section. I think in the end the pieces ended being about 5 1/2" each. I had just enough and was able to trim the excess to match the pictures in the instructions. The oars. I was too heavy handed when sanding the oars and completely lost one when it snapped in my hands. Yikes. Luckily the kit includes an extra laser cut piece probably for this very reason. I ended up snapping the hand holds on several of the oars as well and had to glue some little pieces of balsa I had left over to make them look somewhat like the pictures. Not my finest moment but I’ve definitely learned a lesson here that I can use on future models. I’m not totally satisfied with the shape and look of the oars. I might try to revisit in the future if I’m looking for something to do. Other Notes: I found the section on the thole pins was slightly different. In the instructions it mentions using a 3/64" dowel and cutting the pins to length. I spent some time looking for this until I realized that a dowel was actually not provided but was replaced in the kit by a strip of 3/64" balsa. I ended up cutting this in half and shaping it on a drill press. I inserted the balsa half way into the chuck, set the speed on the lowest I had available (approx. 500 rpm), and then proceeded to very lightly apply sandpaper to the strip as it spun. I flipped the balsa piece in the chuck and repeated. It made short work of creating the dowel. Overall I had a great time with this kit and would definitely recommend anyone who’s curious about building it to give it a go. Its a great model to learn some basic ship modelling skills on. The completed Lowell Grand Banks Dory. Attaching the sheer plank. The Dory right side up and about to clean the frame tops. Gluing on the starboard gunwale. Attaching the cap rail after painting the model using the recommend Hull Yellow Occre and Bulwarks Dark Green. Close up of the bow after rebuilding the stem top so that it was aligned better with the cap rails. This was a result of poor original alignment of the bottom/stem/and building board before planking. Using the handle of a model knife to force the becket into place after applying the watered down PVA glue. Cutting and installing the thole pins. Attempting to fix the oar handles. Another shot of the completed Lowell Grand Banks Dory.
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- Model Shipways
- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
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I received a very nice delivery from UPS this morning. Yes the V2 kit has arrived. My plan with the V2 Sphinx kit build is to: a) take my time, making sure I am totally happy with everything before parts are finally assembled b) try to be much more careful with this build, my aim is to significantly reduce the number of silly mistakes I normally make c) try out some different ideas to improve my building skills, using the additional spare parts I've ordered. d) take note of the lessons learnt so far with my current build, which has become a practice build e) to have fun and to enjoy the V2 Sphinx kit build and to start and keep a build log charting my progress. f) to continue with the V1 kit build for the time being which is now being used as a practice build.
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- sphinx
- vanguard models
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