Stuntflyer

HM Cutter Cheerful - 1806 - 1:48 scale by Stuntflyer (Mike)

366 posts in this topic

Welcome to my build of Chuck's HM Cutter Cheerful. Most of the parts will be scratch built. Others like the false keel, windlass, rigging material and blocks will be purchased directly from Chuck. The wood for this project (all sheet stock) was purchased from Jason at Crown Timberyard. The quality of his wood is excellent and I am looking forward to working with it. As with my other builds, there will be many new things to learn and I will rely heavily on the knowledge base from MSW to help guide me through the process. So please don't hesitate to post your comments along the way. Thanks!.

alde, ZyXuz, Canute and 3 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The two halves of the false keel are joined using 1 hour epoxy.  A 1/8” x 1/16 rabbet strip is glued along center of the false keels edge. The false keel has been tapered from the bearding line to the rabbet strip.


 


post-8351-0-55737600-1430789043_thumb.jpg


rafine, qwerty2008, KenW and 8 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The completed stem post and keel assembly is now glued to the false keel. I used a # 4b pencil to darken the seams. Treenailing was done using Chuck's method as described in chapter one of his Cheerful practicum. Once completed, the stem post and keel were given a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The WOP was buffed immediately in order to prevent a gloss finish.

 

post-8351-0-54178800-1431030207_thumb.jpg

KenW, rafine, qwerty2008 and 10 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks quite good  :)  I would keep some blue painters tape on the bottom of the keel to protect it from getting nicked and scratched once the bulkheads are in position.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I completed all of the bulkhead and filler pieces today using PVA glue. Only one false keel slot had to be adjusted to allow for a 90° bulkhead fit. All of the laser cut bulkheads had just the right amount of slot clearance and no additional work was necessary. Very impressive since the false keel was .230" thick and the bulkheads slots had to be adjusted for this when the laser cutting was done, I think. The 3 piece port fillers call for an overall thickness of 3/4" so I added a 1/16" soft ply filler piece to make up the difference.

 

post-8351-0-48045000-1431376017_thumb.jpg

 

post-8351-0-94789100-1431374535_thumb.jpg

dadodude, KenW, Canute and 15 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats looking very good.  And yes.  I made all of the needed adjustments so the bulkheads would fit together nicely.   Its looking just as it should at this stage.

 

Chuck

Stuntflyer likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good, Mike! I'll probably be starting a Cheerful log in another couple of weeks, so it's nice to see how the build is going for others on MSW.

 

Cheers,

Jay

Stuntflyer likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After almost three days work the hull fairing is completed. The temporary battens run smoothly with no dips or rises and fall nicely into the stempost. Viewed from above they appear to have a symmetrical run from bow to stern.

 

post-8351-0-86112300-1431638055_thumb.jpg

 

post-8351-0-70953800-1431638064_thumb.jpg

 

post-8351-0-06755600-1431638073_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good, Mike! Did you use a curved sanding block or etc. to fair the bow? I'm currently thinking that's the way to go with the bow but am not sure about how well it will work.

 

Cheers,

Jay

Stuntflyer likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay,

 

I made 4 sanding blocks with different curves since the hull shape is not constant. Mine were made from some medium hard balsa. The ones for the bow and stern areas are shorter and span 3 bulkheads. The others, like those for sanding amidships, are longer and span 4-5 bulkheads. I think that using curved blocks will give you a more gradual shape from one bulkhead to another.

 

Mike

Canute and JMaitri like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike, thanks for sharing your approach for fairing your hull! I was thinking the same about curved blocks working better, but I wasn't thinking of using 4. What you said about using 4 blocks makes great sense, and I'll use at least 4 when I get to that step of the build--again, thanks for the tip! Am just starting on tapering to the bearding line.

 

Cheers,

Jay

Stuntflyer likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The port sills, port uprights and chase ports are now finished. I opened up the chase ports by 1/32" on each side so I could line them with 1/32" boxwood strip. I wanted to have a clean look and knew that this would achieve that. This should make it a lot easier to paint them when the time comes. With the final sanding of the sills and uprights completed I took another look at the hull fairing and did some more fine tuning. It seems like the more you look the more you find.

 

post-8351-0-92355300-1432046705_thumb.jpg

 

post-8351-0-30210700-1432046712_thumb.jpg

 

post-8351-0-70570600-1432046718_thumb.jpg

Chuck, SailorGreg, JMaitri and 14 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Using Chuck's bulkhead kit keeps everything lined up nicely.  I had quite a few adjustments to make by cutting them myself...particularly at the stern.  Looking good.

Maury

Canute, Stuntflyer and Chuck like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When first reading chapter two I kept wondering how this was all going to come together smoothly. It's interesting to see how Chuck has put this to work in such a logical way thus making the process much easier than it looks.

 

Rather than cutting the stern frames individually, each frame X, Y and Z were stacked together and cut as one piece. Each of the two outer frames ZZ were stacked three together. A tiny amount of PVA was used to hold the parts together while cutting them with the jigsaw. I used Elmer's Washable School Glue to adhere the drawings to the parts. The disc sander and oscillating drum sander cleaned things up nicely afterwards. Given the accuracy of Jason's boxwood sheets and Chuck's laser cutting the fitting of the stern frames was a breeze with no sanding necessary. Frames ZZ were faired as Chuck describes in his practicum.

 

 

post-8351-0-59045400-1432318380_thumb.jpg

 

Though apparently simple, I found that the two stern ports were very challenging to make. They are awkward to hold and care must be taken while making adjustments to the angles. They should be positioned parallel to the waterline.

post-8351-0-85950400-1432318390_thumb.jpg

 

The square tuck piece was then added along with the filler pieces glued behind it. The photo shows the port side after being faired. A lot of material had to be removed in order to get a batten to run smoothly over the hull.

post-8351-0-50283500-1432320465_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Chuck,

 

What would be a good color for the red paint? I have tried Winsor and Newton and they seem to work well. I see that you used Crimson on the Winchelsea

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats what I use...I use Crimson right from the tube usually but sometimes I will add some raw sienna to tone it down on the brown side a bit.

 

Chuck

Chuck Seiler and Stuntflyer like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally, I am a 'red snob'.  I seldom like the red most people use...too bright in my opinion.  I like the barn red or caboose red type color for internal bulwarks and appropriate deck furniture. 

 

I am currently experimenting with artist acrylics.  Using "Windsor and Newton Galleria" paint, I mixed a large gob of crimson red and a wee dot of Mars Black...and alot of water.  I am going for the consistency of olive oil for right now.  I think I have the color I want.

 

   The secret (if, in fact, this works) is to start off with the gob or red and add VERY LITTLE dots of black until you get what you want...or what I want.

 

    Now, I will do a test paint to see what it looks like dry, on wood. 

Canute, Senior ole salt and mtaylor like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was able to complete the port painting after applying about 15 thinned coats of red over a dark pink base. The temporary battens marking the bottom edge of the wales were pinned evenly on both sides of the hull. For the most part the batten runs matched the reference lines along the bulkheads very closely.

 

 

post-8351-0-25975600-1432568211_thumb.jpg

 

post-8351-0-11951800-1432568223_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm now onto the hull planking starting with the first of the two wale layers. I made sure that each plank fit nicely into the stem to avoid as much sanding as possible. I don't have the clamp and glue technique sorted out yet so I just worked my way aft by hand and glued two or three bulkheads at a time. Although the wale location was previously marked, I did make some tiny adjustments as I went along. This was especially true where I had to ensure that both wales end up at the same location where the break of the counter and square tuck meet.

 

post-8351-0-05853900-1432774651_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Planking above the wales has proven to be a rather time consuming process as a lot of time was spent getting a good fit between the gun ports. At one point I realized that I had the wrong curve, aft of the last gun port, which required a more upward sweep. Rather than replacing the whole plank I just added a filler piece after the curve was corrected. The filler piece is small and will eventually be covered by the fashion piece.

 

Photo showing one side completed above the wales and the small filler piece at the stern.

 

post-8351-0-68914500-1433718362_thumb.jpg

rafine, KenW, Canute and 14 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike, your planking looks great, and nice catch/fix on that one plank!

 

Cheers,

Jay

Stuntflyer likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Planking of the port side above the wales is now completed. Both sides have had an initial sanding with 180 grit.

 

post-8351-0-56510300-1434076495_thumb.jpg

 

In preparation for the stern planking the outside stern frames were thinned to 1/16" in thickness. I'm looking forward to getting started on the planking so I can tighten up this area which is still somewhat fragile.

 

post-8351-0-24492300-1434078269.jpg

Jack12477, rafine, Rustyj and 16 others like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike, great to have met you yesterday and to have seen your Cheerful in person. It will make following along even more enjoyable.

 

Bob

Stuntflyer and Canute like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.