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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. Ebony is a bear to work with though - I prefer to dye pear with Fiebings Leather Shoe Dye to imitate it
  2. Frolichs method is a variation on the Belgian School - which exclusively uses Pear Wood. He uses Ebony for all black areas, Boxwood for Carvings/Moldings, and Maple for deck. He doesn't use stain or dye but relays on the beauty of these finished woods. Its not really painting wood per se - which tends use more colorful woods such as bloodwood for bulwarks and several other exotic species in a build but more of a three tone approach - Dark tone, Mid tone and Light tone - which I personally find very attractive. Heres a link http://modelisme.arsenal.free.fr/artdumodelisme/conf/confgb.pdf
  3. Thanks Mark and Ben - enjoying this Zin and looking at the 118 Commerce de Marseilles Monograph. Maybe its the Zin talking, Im so tempted to jump to this build in 1/48 after finishing Confederacy vs Le Gros Ventre. Im 44 - this 118 will take a decade at least if not two - maybe I should get started now - or at least next summer when I move to a house with a bigger workshop. Structurally its not much more complicated than LGV - just bigger and more repetitive. Sculptures are about the same in terms difficulty. And as far as I know - no model of her exists as L'Orient here in the US. Hopefully more pics of some nice completed cheeks tomorrow….
  4. Thanks Anja and Rusty ! Hoping to get some serious time in the shop tomorrow to try to the carve moldings in these cheeks - hoping this batch turns out better than the last rejects….
  5. Thanks Nigel - given the fact I'm building the 118 Gun L'Orient or the 74 Gun Ship after Le Gros Ventre - one of these might make sense !
  6. Thanks Nigel - I'm planning my first full frame Ancre build after Confederacy - I hear a lot of modelers on this forum mentioning mills. Frolich makes no mention of them in his book - so appreciate the info.
  7. What do you guys use these for ? - i think there is a thread somewhere - just being lazy.
  8. Hey Augie, Looking good - from the photo - the stern windows look off - I could be wrong - but if you plan on using kit supplied lights - you may have issues. If its any encouragement - I really enjoyed planking my Confederacy - and had no issues using a jig to bend a hard wood and did not have to spill planks. In fact i think the amount of drop planks and stealers I used was identical to Chucks which i followed exactly. I did take my time - my only suggestion vs Chucks method - I built up the two layers of the wales along with the black strake first (since I was dying them black) before advancing further with hull planking - that way I avoided masking - other than at the stem. Have fun, Chris
  9. I will say this Bill - both Confederacy and Syren have some of the most comprehensive instructions you will find today and are excellent/accurate designs by Chuck Passaro - who generously offers tech support. I'd go with these over the Mamoli or Corel kits. But then again, build what you passionate about. Look forward to seeing a build log ! Best, Chris
  10. Hi Bill, I'm currently scratch building the Confederacy using Chucks plans and instructions. I have built lets see Latinas Harvey, HMS Bounty, Panarts Royal Caroline, Corels Wappen Von Hamburg (unfinished) and Bob Hunts Fair American (also unfinished). With basic woodworking skills - all of these models are in the same range as far as difficulty - the main difference being length of build which can be a bear. Continued enthusiasm, dedication and effort towards a modeling subject in my opinion are the biggest challenges as far as ship modeling is concerned. Thats why there are so many unfinished builds (including two of my own staring at me in my office) Confederacy is clocking in as my longest build (4 years next month) - but then again I'm scratching it. As a kit should take less than half this amount of time. Hope this helps - good luck in your selection, Chris
  11. Hey Joe, I'm buying Volume 2 sooner rather than later and possibly the Le Gros Ventre plans enlarged to 1/36 for my next build. Chris
  12. I'm blown away by this book (and overwhelmed). This book totally helps me decipher the set of Boudriots 74 Gun Ship Plans in French I bought last year on this site. In conjunction with my recent purchases of the "Le Gros Ventre" and the "Commerce De Marseille" monographs (and the rumored purchase of Frolichs "Art of Ship Modeling" by my wife for my Bday next week) - I'm well on my way!
  13. Yeah thats also an option - I dont own a drill press and probably should.
  14. Actually looking at the Shop Fox Spindle Sander on Amazon - sells for around 140 dollars. Anyone use this one ? I think between a spindle and a Byrnes Sander should make assembling frames easier. (especially with my crappy scroll sawing skills)
  15. Hey Group, I want to pick up one of these - think it will come in handy when sanding the inside of frames - but am wondering if they are too powerful for this sort of use. Does one exist (maybe be another great tool for Jim Byrnes to develop) that would work for my purposes ? I also want to use this to sand/shape my headrails on Confederacy. Would I be better off just picking up on Ebay one of the Dremel drill press attachments for my variable speed Dremel and clamping it to my work bench ? Thanks, Chris
  16. Pear bends very easily - on my Confederacy - I built the wales and dyed them on the model - using a demarcation line and Tamiya tape - I was successful not having it bleed onto the stem. I then planked the rest of my model afterwards.
  17. Go with Fiebings Black Shoe dye on Swiss Pear for your wales - it takes the dye better than boxwood. I use 4 coats - they dry instantly then buff with an old t shirt. I then top coat with Watcos Danish Oil.
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