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Blue Ensign
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Just love it Daniel,absolutely brilliant. ps. Grant, what do you think this is table service, nominate a messmate to collect the rations from the Galley, or else you'll all go hungry B.E. -
Hi Bob, those plans look very similar in layout to those of my Pegasus. The upper mast part, that area above the stop of the hounds,ie where the top of the cheeks and bibs are fitted is the masthead and should be square, or slightly broader athwartships than in the fore/aft direction (Steel) In the case of Pegasus the transition is from 8mm dia at the hounds, with the sides flatted off to take the cheeks, and with the head squared to 6mm to form the masthead. The square section is indicated on the plan. Is there perhaps a note in the kit narrative indicating the use of strip to build up the masthead to the full square section? B.E.
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I look forward to seeing the fruits of your labours Hamilton, whichever design you settle on. Re the tiles: my approach would be to cut them from paper or perhaps adhesive backed foils. The lead may well have been coloured with ochre to give the appearance of gilt, but on the Victory the lead sheeting has been left natural. When I built my Victory model I used exhaust repair tape coloured grey to represent the lead. B.E.
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Hi Hamilton nice work on the decks. Re the Quarter gallery. Drawing D4/2 is quite difficult to picture in 3d, I would imagine it is not quite as angular as it looks, but rather had a slight round to it. The little roof which would be slightly concave would possibly have been tiled in decorative shingles, using overlapping semi circular discs of lead. I’m a little puzzled by the broad timber running from the cill to the rail as the dotted line looks to be the transom line, and I’m struggling to see the relationship between that timber and the gallery. I think you initially need to make up the basic shape and see how it looks on the model, and think about the mouldings and decoration later. Had you considered using sculpey to form the lower finishing, I would imagine it would lend itself to forming those fancy shapes as shown in the drawings. One other thought drawing D4/1 shows a Quarter badge similar to Pegasus, it can be made either flat or canted as Andy (realworking sailor) has done on his build, and there you have how he went about the job. At least with that type you would have a reduced number of glazing bars for the lights. Certainly the flat version can be cut from thin sheet and the window frames made up on the base. Styrene strip could even be used to form the curves and glazing bars if they are to be painted. Cheers. B.E.
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I think I have used the four jaw chuck more than the three jaw simply because my topmasts have been made from square stock, and for round stock the collets take care of dowel up to 10mm dia. The four jaw is certainly more fiddly but I have found that by closing the jaws evenly and then opening by degrees to allow insertion of the workpiece off the lathe, I have better control. Final tightening is then done with the chuck screwed on. B.E.
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Great shots Chris, what a marvel that kit is going to be. B.,E.
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Those bijou carronades are an exercise in pure frustration, but that's the worst over now, you can relax and enjoy the rest of the build. You're right about the plating, Amati have the edge over Caldercraft by a long way on appearance, and if I were doing Pickle again, or any other Caldercraft kit for that matter, I would ditch their plates in favour of Amati. B.E.
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Sorry to see the Mizen has failed Peter, good luck with the replacement. Cheers, B.E.
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Nice work Tony, and a great instruction on how to achieve it; I would be really pleased to have produced that little gem. B.E.
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They look fine to me Jason, I also had to jigger with the chain lengths on Pegasus to get them to look right. Cheers, B.E.
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Neat work on the Mizen stay Andy. Lees (Masting & Rigging) indicates the use of deadeyes up to 1805, but Marquardt ( 18th century rigs and Rigging) qualifies this as relating to large ships. Antscherl has gone with 5" hearts (2mm at scale). I suspect Lees who was Senior Curator at the NMM based much of his work on the close inspection of contemporary models, but hearts or deadeyes are a minor point in the ovearall scheme of things. B.E.
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Nice 'how to' on framing the Launch Grant, excellent work. B.E.
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Only been away a few days but you have made great progress Timmo, love the last batch of shots, show off the cleaness of your work a treat. Cheers, B.E.
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Looking good Richard, B.E.
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A very nice job on those carronades Len, they are excellent B.E.
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Rigging sizes in relation to scale of model
Blue Ensign replied to HKC's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
That is more difficult because wire rigging sizes tended to be somewhat smaller than the equivalent rope sizes. Can the operators of the Danmark provide any information? or failing that The Cutty Sark also had wire rigging and that rigging information is available, and may not be too far out. B.E. -
The stay collar around the Mainmast looks good to me, at the scale involved making two eyes and a lashing around the back of the mast is a result in itself. Imagine the purists trying to do a Rose Lashing. One minor nod to accuracy which won't involve you in any trouble, the stay passes around the Masthead from Port to Starboard so you may wish to turn the stay so the eye is on the Starboard side. B.E.
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If you go down the toggle route Andy I would suggest you drill the slots for the strops before you fit the battens that radiate across the top. I had to remove and re-jig some of the battens because they cut across where the slots should be. The slots incidently fall behind the forward crosstrees and aft of the aft crosstrees. I found this quite a tricky exercise at 1:64 and I'm not sure how much will be apparent once all the top hamper is fitted. Still it satisfies the inner masochist I suppose. B.E.
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Looking very good Grant, I shall be following your progress with great interest; I may soon be having to try to replicate your excellent work. Regards, B.E.
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Hi Timmo , yes that is the sort of arrangement I had in mind. I see on the AoTS cover drawing that the rail is painted black in the centre of the moulding which picks up with the wale and the capping rails. I see what you mean about the blue section along the Foc'sle topsides, but you have an artists eye as evidenced by your work on the bulkhead and I'm sure whatever you eventually decide upon will look good. Regards, B.E.
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Tricky one that Timmo, I'm not quite sure, either way quite a tricky paint job but one I've no doubt you are up to. Had you considered a plain varnished affect for the rail with the centre picked out in the same blue as the bulkhead? B.E.
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Rigging sizes in relation to scale of model
Blue Ensign replied to HKC's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
It would help to know what model you are building; Anderson is good for 17th early 18th century period but Steel is better for mid 18th to early 19th century period. B.E.
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