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Blue Ensign
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Everything posted by Blue Ensign
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Re the Caps Bob, I think you may have picked up the wrong idea. The smaller hole is to fit over the mast head, the larger hole is for the Topmast. In the kits (Pegasus as well) Amati leave the hole round, but the mast head has a section reduced in size to fit this. More properly a tenon is formed on the topmast head to take the cap; the tenon is quite a bit smaller than the section of the masthead so the square hole that I formed to take the tenon is much smaller than the other round hole for the Topmast. Althought the section of the Topmast between the heeling and the cap is eight square the hole for the mast is round and is sufficiently large to allow the hounds at the top of the Topmast to slip thro' the cap so it may be seated atop the eight square section and fit on the Lower masthead tenon. It looks as tho' you have made the mortise in the cap to fit the full section of the masthead rather than forming a smaller tenon. I think you will also find that the forward hole to take the Topmast will need enlarging to allow passage of the topmast. Regards, B.E. -
That's a neat looking rail Russ, presumably you had to cut it out of sheet material and fine sand to finished proportions. Could you not fake the scarph joints by scribing. B.E.
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Great post Tony, an excellent explanation of how to produce blocks. I like the way you also include what didn't work. One small amendment you may wish to make:- Re-thinking the block size The correct size for rope going through the double blocks on the guns is 2.5mm diameter. I think you meant to write 0.25mm Cheers, B.E.
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Thanks Richard. Glad you found the site of interest Lukas. Hi Martin, I also have an optivisor but it irritates me to wear it too long, I prefer my extra strength prescription specs but I think they need upgrading now. Thanks for looking in Neal, this is how I did the base and water. The base is constructed out of cardboard with a wooden framework. The cardboard top has been sprayed with varnish to seal it, followed by coats of rattle can colours in blues and green. A 10mm wide strip of tape surrounds the top, this will form the boundary of the ‘sea’ and strips of limewood will be fitted later, as will the moulding strips for the sides. The wave pattern is then formed using a non silicone sealant working it into shape with a paintbrush handle, and then a wetted paintbrush to smooth and relax the waves a little. As the sealant dries out overnight it clears to show the base coat beneath. The 10mm x 2mm edging strips of Lime wood have now been sprayed (Regency Blue) and mitred around the edges; this will provide an even base for the acrylic case top to rest on. A Georgian style moulding surrounds the base which I think is in keeping with a period look. After testing various varnish finishes, pine, dark and mid oaks, I have settled on a light oak satin varnish. This I think provides a good contrast to the dark sea. I cannot completely finish the sea where it butts up to the ship until I am ready to set her in position, but a little application of sealant should then do the trick. The colour tonings were then played around with until I reached a look I was satisfied with. This was the final effect. At this stage there was a lot left to do on the model, but the base was complete. Regards, B.E.
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Hi hamilton, Nice work on the Transom, love the way it ties in with the Quarter galleries, and I like the round you have achieved on those galleries which so often come out as wedge shaped. Not quite so sure about the diamond pattern windows for period, here's a link to a fret supplier I have used for windows and the like, may be of use for future reference. http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Doors___Windows___Scale_1_76.html Regards, B.E.
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Cheers Martin, she is one of my favourite builds, and was probably the longest build I've done. Thanks Richard for looking in, the possibilities for plastic kits are now endless with styrene strip and brass etch, you've only got to look at Force 9's Constitution build and Dafi's Victory. The main key is having the information to make the changes; in my case Boudriots Volumes on the Seventy-four gun ship. I like the 1:150 scale size, fits nicely in a domestic setting and allows for good detailing. Although I struggle with my eyesight a bit now, I do still have the La Flore Frigate which I've always had a hanker to upgrade. Maybe one day.... B.E.
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Hi Lukas, I wish you luck with your exams and joy in continuing your build. My original and fully detailed build log which runs to some 196 pages with 550 photos would be some e-mail message. The good news is that it is available to view on another forum. http://pete-coleman.com/forum/index.php You need to register to view and you are welcome to copy all or any of it if it will be of help to you. On the original log the build is divided into separate sections which make it a little easier to locate specific areas. With regard to your question These are the sizes I used for the Standing rigging of the lower masts, the upper rigging and the running rigging is of much thinner line and in some cases wire, this is all detailed in the log. 1.00mm Ø line – Main stay 0.75mmØ line – Forestay 0.50mmØ line – Preventer stays 0.5mm Ø line – Mizen Stay 0.5mmØ line – Fore and Main lower shrouds. 0.25mmØ line – Mizen lower shrouds. These sizes have been rounded to suit available thread sizes, the main stay is fractionally over and the Mizen shrouds fractionally under true scale size, but in my opinion it is the relationship between the various stays that is important, everything has to fall in proportionally between the largest scale line selected, ( Main stay) and the smallest line (the ratlines) I used Amati 2mm deadeyes for the lower shrouds, but the upper ones were scratched from styrene rod or pressed from styrene sheet, again the details are in the log. Cheers, B.E.
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A fine job you made of that windlass Richard, nice to see it can be done. I failed miserably to get it to look right and had to scratch one in the end. Well done B.E.
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A most interesting log Russ that clearly demonstrates your approach to the build, to the great benefit of us all. Beautiful hull lines you have achieved, I think your client will be well pleased. I find it's always a bad sign when those words I am going to live with it for a few days and then see what I think creep into my mind, more often than not I end up not being able to live with it. Needs careful consideration before action tho' presumably the starboard hawse hole is slightly larger than the Port, and there's always the risk of making things worse.Those lips look tricky little beggars to make. Regards, B.E.
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Hi Jason, I have looked at the framing on Pegasus, the ports sit between frames but there are filler frames below and above the ports some of which are extended to a timberhead, one being directly above the Bridle port, but there are also a couple further aft. The knightheads were intended to give lateral support to the bowsprit, and certainly on Pegasus sit close either side; the arrangement you show wouldn't fulfil this purpose so I think there may be some doubt as to the accuracy of their position. B.E.
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I like what you are doing with this kit David, you're doing a fine job. Cheers, B.E.
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Nice fix Peter, well done B.E.
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I just love your work Juergen, beautiful execution. B.E.
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Just love it Daniel,absolutely brilliant. ps. Grant, what do you think this is table service, nominate a messmate to collect the rations from the Galley, or else you'll all go hungry B.E.
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Hi Bob, those plans look very similar in layout to those of my Pegasus. The upper mast part, that area above the stop of the hounds,ie where the top of the cheeks and bibs are fitted is the masthead and should be square, or slightly broader athwartships than in the fore/aft direction (Steel) In the case of Pegasus the transition is from 8mm dia at the hounds, with the sides flatted off to take the cheeks, and with the head squared to 6mm to form the masthead. The square section is indicated on the plan. Is there perhaps a note in the kit narrative indicating the use of strip to build up the masthead to the full square section? B.E.
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I look forward to seeing the fruits of your labours Hamilton, whichever design you settle on. Re the tiles: my approach would be to cut them from paper or perhaps adhesive backed foils. The lead may well have been coloured with ochre to give the appearance of gilt, but on the Victory the lead sheeting has been left natural. When I built my Victory model I used exhaust repair tape coloured grey to represent the lead. B.E.
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Hi Hamilton nice work on the decks. Re the Quarter gallery. Drawing D4/2 is quite difficult to picture in 3d, I would imagine it is not quite as angular as it looks, but rather had a slight round to it. The little roof which would be slightly concave would possibly have been tiled in decorative shingles, using overlapping semi circular discs of lead. I’m a little puzzled by the broad timber running from the cill to the rail as the dotted line looks to be the transom line, and I’m struggling to see the relationship between that timber and the gallery. I think you initially need to make up the basic shape and see how it looks on the model, and think about the mouldings and decoration later. Had you considered using sculpey to form the lower finishing, I would imagine it would lend itself to forming those fancy shapes as shown in the drawings. One other thought drawing D4/1 shows a Quarter badge similar to Pegasus, it can be made either flat or canted as Andy (realworking sailor) has done on his build, and there you have how he went about the job. At least with that type you would have a reduced number of glazing bars for the lights. Certainly the flat version can be cut from thin sheet and the window frames made up on the base. Styrene strip could even be used to form the curves and glazing bars if they are to be painted. Cheers. B.E.
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I think I have used the four jaw chuck more than the three jaw simply because my topmasts have been made from square stock, and for round stock the collets take care of dowel up to 10mm dia. The four jaw is certainly more fiddly but I have found that by closing the jaws evenly and then opening by degrees to allow insertion of the workpiece off the lathe, I have better control. Final tightening is then done with the chuck screwed on. B.E.
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Great shots Chris, what a marvel that kit is going to be. B.,E.
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Those bijou carronades are an exercise in pure frustration, but that's the worst over now, you can relax and enjoy the rest of the build. You're right about the plating, Amati have the edge over Caldercraft by a long way on appearance, and if I were doing Pickle again, or any other Caldercraft kit for that matter, I would ditch their plates in favour of Amati. B.E.
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Sorry to see the Mizen has failed Peter, good luck with the replacement. Cheers, B.E.
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