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Blue Ensign
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Everything posted by Blue Ensign
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You're in good company Daniel with our King Alfred, he had trouble with ovens A realistic result and a great solution, best I've seen. Cheers, M. -
Hello Nils, what a fascinating approach to building Pegasus working up the full frames from the Amati bulkhead drawings, no mean feat. What did you use as reference for the internal fittings which of course are not given in the Amati plans? but which add such interest to your build. I note that you have added metal rims to the trucks of your gun carriages and lifting bars (Dolphins) to the guns. You may of course be adopting a stylistic approach to aspects of your build, which is fine, but those features were not actually fitted to British naval guns of the period, if you are seeking an historical approach. An appealing build Nils, I will follow your progress with much interest. Regards, B.E.
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Beautiful work and a fine build log, love the headworks and stern decoration. Regards, B.E.
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Fine looking build Kester, I love the furled sail, great natural look to it. B.E.
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Hi Martin, an iron horse to me is an iron bar fixed at both ends and parallel to the deck to which the boom sheet is attached and allowed to travel along the length of the horse according to the trim of the sail. Sometimes the bar is attached to the taffrail of a vessel. Not sure abouit several lines being attached tho', which ones does it say are attached? perhaps a photo may help. ps thanks for the info about American machines and power differences, I hadn't thought about that. Cheers, B.E.
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Nice work on the head Michael, I think you have given your Wasa a great period look, a wonderful build. B.E.
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A neat solution Timmo, nicely executed. Cheers, B.E.
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Once you've sussed out the technique as you seem to have done Andy, it's just a matter of trial and error, frustrating as that may be. Not looking forward to those fiddly bits either. B.E.
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Hi hamilton I have to add my name to the list of those who think the bare twig look does not work. Scale link do a range of foliage frets which may work better, but before you give up and leave it plain, try painting a strip of paper of the required width with a series of scrolls and say acanthus leaves, you may surprise yourself. The book artwork gives a lead. Cheers, B.E.
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Thanks Jason, with a waterline setting and added sails it does give a very different look to a model. Thanks Michael it was my first attempt at water, and paper sails for that matter, there was no other option than to cover her but it doesn't detract too much from the view. Cheers, B.E.
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Neat job on those bijou carronades Richard I bet you're glad that bits over. I agree about the name colour, white just seems too stark for the model. Nice progress. Cheers, B.E.
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Looks a good result Jason, those pre- drilled bowsprit caps are a pain because as you say the cap should be in a vertical plane when viewed from the side and the hole for the jibboom needs to be angled to suit the stive of the bowsprit. To make it so the hole becomes too big. An additional problem on Pegasus was that there was no provision on the starboard side to take the Jack staff; I got around the problem by scratching a new cap and fixing angled inserts in the vice to give the correct stive for the hole before drilling. Enjoy your trip back home. Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Revier, thank you. The model has a plastic cover over it that fits inside the rim of the base. At 1:150 scale that is the only way to keep it clean. The good news is that with the small scale the overall case size is not too obtrusive. Cheers, B.E.
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Looking good Bob, I'm pleased you like the lathe, feel partly responsible for pushing you down that road. Not hinting or anything but the Proxxon Mill is great for squaring the heads out of dowel for the lower masts where the rest of the length is a slightly tapering round. Not so relevant for the topmasts where starting with square stock is the better option. Cheers, B.E.
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This question pops up from time to time, I think I answered a similar question not so long ago, but I can't recall where now, possibly lost in build log. This is what LG Carr-Laughton has to say in his book Old Ships Figureheads and Sterns. Red was from very early the regulation colour for inboard works, but during the French Revolutionary war it began to give way to yellow; and indeed other colours seemed to have been used ocasionally, for in the Thalia frigate in 1797 they painted the Quarterdeck and Foc'sle blue. It appears that in 1801, red being still the regulation colour both for the sides inboard and for gun carriages, the crews of ships were in the habit of repainting the gun carriages yellow when they received them from the officers of the Ordnance; and this implies that the inboard works were also yellow, of which there is other evidence. In August 1807, the Navy Board instructed the dockyard officers to paint the decks (by which it is meant the sides and the deck fittings, not the flat of the decks) yellow when requested to do so by Captains. Light yellow was usually chosen. It is likely that both at the Nile and Trafalgar most ships were yellow inboard, tho' probably a steadily decreasing number still kept to the old red. This looks like a case of Navy board Regulation catching up with accepted practice. Diana had a fairly long career so probably had both red and yellow inboard works, tho' I hasten to add not at the same time, that would look appalling and not at all in keeping with Georgian aesthetics. B.E.
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Your joinery is a joy to behold Gary, and that capstan is a fine piece of work. Regards, B.E.
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She looks absolutely wonderful Christian, if I was building Diana I would want her to turn out just like yours. Re the Figurehead, I also preferred a natural wood look on Pegasus, and used artists oils to achieve the result I wanted. Regards, B.E.
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Looking good in the photo Andy, I have been concerned that serving the shroud would make it look too bulky in relation to the others. What size thread did you use in realtion to the given scale diameter of the shroud? B.E.
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I agree with Augie JP, a natural finish would set her off a treat B.E.
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Looking good hamilton you're certainly making her special. Love the kevels, I know they are tricky little beasts to make. B..E
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Very nice work Ray, she is looking splendid, I'm impressed by your T&B deck planking, well done. B.E.
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Hi Martin re the thimbles; in the past I've used cuts off styrene, brass, and aluminium tubing to form a thimble around which I ca the line before seizing. I've also used tiny plastic seed beads flattened off. I used those for the bowlines on my 1:150 scale Seventy-four model. Thanks for reminding me about Shipahoy Models. I have their serving machine but I now see they also do a sander/thicknesser a fair bit cheaper than the Proxxon version I am trying to resist buying at the moment, a little more delving is required I think. Cheers, B.E.
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You've come a very long way since then Daniel................ M.
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Excellent work Thomas, what a beautiful model, and what a credit to Chuck's design. B.E.
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