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Blue Ensign
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Nice lines Mark, the results of all your hard work is clear to see. Useful thing to be able to flip the photos, helps the eye detect any discrepancies in the sheer line. Getting the wale line right is one of the crucial aspects of a build. Did the French use Top and Butt or Anchor stock planking on the wales, or have they made life more simple for you by using straight planks? B.E. -
Very nice Grant, well done B.E.
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Hi Bob according to Lees the corners of the caps were given a round up until 1820 this accords with the drawings by Steel in his 1794 book. Fine finish you have achieved on the 'bee lines' Bob, the last time I did a Victory model, it took months before I was satisfied with the position and width of the black lines, they are very tricky to get right. Cheers, B.E.
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belaying lines on knightheads...yes or no?
Blue Ensign replied to hamilton's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Knightheads usually had sheaves running tho' them two, sometimes three, and often with belaying pins horizontally thro' the top part. Lees shows lines attaching to knightheads in his rigging plans of ships of the first quarter of the 18th century. B.E. -
HMS SERAPIS by PMG - Aeropiccola
Blue Ensign replied to PMG's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
An attractive looking model Pierre, and I love the way you have completed the Quarter Galleries. I was moved to see what Rif Winfield had to say about Serapis in his reference work British Warships in the age of sail 1714 - 1792. Built by Randall & Co Rotherhithe. 44 gun 5th rate revived Roebuck Class As built 140ft 4" X 38ft 2" launched 1779. Captured by the Bonhomme Richard 23/09/1779 after fierce battle following which the Bonhomme Richard sank. She was transferred to the French Navy but was burnt by accident off Madagascar July 1781. The class name vessel Roebuck was commisssioned in 1775, 140ft x 37ft 10" she was armed with 20 x 18 pounders on the gun deck 22 x 9 pounders on the Upper deck (later 12 pounders) and 2 x 6 pounders on the Foc'sle. She has a long career being broken up in 1811. 19 revised Roebuck class ships were built, the name Serapis was re-issued to a new vessel of the class built in 1780. I look forward to seeing your build continue. Regards, B.E. -
Thoroughly enjoyed reading thro' your log Michael, what skill you have, and what a beautiful cutter you are building, a joy to behold. B.E.
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I tend to refer to 'Crowsfeet' Are those Futtock plates made of soft metal, if so you may be able to drill holes further up the plate by hand and then reduce the length. A job for later tho' once you can see what's involved. B.E.
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I marvel at your build each time you update the progress Augie, excellent work. B.E.
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That should do the trick Bob, I didn't realise that the cap came in halves on the kit, which incidently is how they were fixed certainly on larger ships at the time. As you say once they are painted up they will be fine. I don't know how you are planning to do your rigging, but if the shrouds are to be fitted on the model then it is better to not fix the cap until they are fitted. B.E
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You have been busy Martin, quite a bit of progress. I like your approach to checking out the relative sizes of rigging and associated tackle. A neat solution for the Euphroe, remember a groove needs to go around the outside edge to take the strop. With regard to the Futtock plates not much can be done with these until you are much further along in the build. The Futtock shrouds usually attach to the plates with small hooks but this can only be done once the lower shrouds are in place. You may then also wish to check the relative length of the plates which should hang around two scale feet below the top. Regards, B.E.
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Re the Caps Bob, I think you may have picked up the wrong idea. The smaller hole is to fit over the mast head, the larger hole is for the Topmast. In the kits (Pegasus as well) Amati leave the hole round, but the mast head has a section reduced in size to fit this. More properly a tenon is formed on the topmast head to take the cap; the tenon is quite a bit smaller than the section of the masthead so the square hole that I formed to take the tenon is much smaller than the other round hole for the Topmast. Althought the section of the Topmast between the heeling and the cap is eight square the hole for the mast is round and is sufficiently large to allow the hounds at the top of the Topmast to slip thro' the cap so it may be seated atop the eight square section and fit on the Lower masthead tenon. It looks as tho' you have made the mortise in the cap to fit the full section of the masthead rather than forming a smaller tenon. I think you will also find that the forward hole to take the Topmast will need enlarging to allow passage of the topmast. Regards, B.E.
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That's a neat looking rail Russ, presumably you had to cut it out of sheet material and fine sand to finished proportions. Could you not fake the scarph joints by scribing. B.E.
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Great post Tony, an excellent explanation of how to produce blocks. I like the way you also include what didn't work. One small amendment you may wish to make:- Re-thinking the block size The correct size for rope going through the double blocks on the guns is 2.5mm diameter. I think you meant to write 0.25mm Cheers, B.E.
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Thanks Richard. Glad you found the site of interest Lukas. Hi Martin, I also have an optivisor but it irritates me to wear it too long, I prefer my extra strength prescription specs but I think they need upgrading now. Thanks for looking in Neal, this is how I did the base and water. The base is constructed out of cardboard with a wooden framework. The cardboard top has been sprayed with varnish to seal it, followed by coats of rattle can colours in blues and green. A 10mm wide strip of tape surrounds the top, this will form the boundary of the ‘sea’ and strips of limewood will be fitted later, as will the moulding strips for the sides. The wave pattern is then formed using a non silicone sealant working it into shape with a paintbrush handle, and then a wetted paintbrush to smooth and relax the waves a little. As the sealant dries out overnight it clears to show the base coat beneath. The 10mm x 2mm edging strips of Lime wood have now been sprayed (Regency Blue) and mitred around the edges; this will provide an even base for the acrylic case top to rest on. A Georgian style moulding surrounds the base which I think is in keeping with a period look. After testing various varnish finishes, pine, dark and mid oaks, I have settled on a light oak satin varnish. This I think provides a good contrast to the dark sea. I cannot completely finish the sea where it butts up to the ship until I am ready to set her in position, but a little application of sealant should then do the trick. The colour tonings were then played around with until I reached a look I was satisfied with. This was the final effect. At this stage there was a lot left to do on the model, but the base was complete. Regards, B.E.
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Hi hamilton, Nice work on the Transom, love the way it ties in with the Quarter galleries, and I like the round you have achieved on those galleries which so often come out as wedge shaped. Not quite so sure about the diamond pattern windows for period, here's a link to a fret supplier I have used for windows and the like, may be of use for future reference. http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Doors___Windows___Scale_1_76.html Regards, B.E.
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Cheers Martin, she is one of my favourite builds, and was probably the longest build I've done. Thanks Richard for looking in, the possibilities for plastic kits are now endless with styrene strip and brass etch, you've only got to look at Force 9's Constitution build and Dafi's Victory. The main key is having the information to make the changes; in my case Boudriots Volumes on the Seventy-four gun ship. I like the 1:150 scale size, fits nicely in a domestic setting and allows for good detailing. Although I struggle with my eyesight a bit now, I do still have the La Flore Frigate which I've always had a hanker to upgrade. Maybe one day.... B.E.
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Hi Lukas, I wish you luck with your exams and joy in continuing your build. My original and fully detailed build log which runs to some 196 pages with 550 photos would be some e-mail message. The good news is that it is available to view on another forum. http://pete-coleman.com/forum/index.php You need to register to view and you are welcome to copy all or any of it if it will be of help to you. On the original log the build is divided into separate sections which make it a little easier to locate specific areas. With regard to your question These are the sizes I used for the Standing rigging of the lower masts, the upper rigging and the running rigging is of much thinner line and in some cases wire, this is all detailed in the log. 1.00mm Ø line – Main stay 0.75mmØ line – Forestay 0.50mmØ line – Preventer stays 0.5mm Ø line – Mizen Stay 0.5mmØ line – Fore and Main lower shrouds. 0.25mmØ line – Mizen lower shrouds. These sizes have been rounded to suit available thread sizes, the main stay is fractionally over and the Mizen shrouds fractionally under true scale size, but in my opinion it is the relationship between the various stays that is important, everything has to fall in proportionally between the largest scale line selected, ( Main stay) and the smallest line (the ratlines) I used Amati 2mm deadeyes for the lower shrouds, but the upper ones were scratched from styrene rod or pressed from styrene sheet, again the details are in the log. Cheers, B.E.
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A fine job you made of that windlass Richard, nice to see it can be done. I failed miserably to get it to look right and had to scratch one in the end. Well done B.E.
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A most interesting log Russ that clearly demonstrates your approach to the build, to the great benefit of us all. Beautiful hull lines you have achieved, I think your client will be well pleased. I find it's always a bad sign when those words I am going to live with it for a few days and then see what I think creep into my mind, more often than not I end up not being able to live with it. Needs careful consideration before action tho' presumably the starboard hawse hole is slightly larger than the Port, and there's always the risk of making things worse.Those lips look tricky little beggars to make. Regards, B.E.
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Hi Jason, I have looked at the framing on Pegasus, the ports sit between frames but there are filler frames below and above the ports some of which are extended to a timberhead, one being directly above the Bridle port, but there are also a couple further aft. The knightheads were intended to give lateral support to the bowsprit, and certainly on Pegasus sit close either side; the arrangement you show wouldn't fulfil this purpose so I think there may be some doubt as to the accuracy of their position. B.E.
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I like what you are doing with this kit David, you're doing a fine job. Cheers, B.E.
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Nice fix Peter, well done B.E.
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