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Everything posted by jwvolz
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Messerschmitt bf 109G-6 by cog - Eduard - 1/48 - PLASTIC
jwvolz replied to cog's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice work on the paint scheme. I built this kit a few years ago, it really is nice. -
The problem with these boats is even if you manage to pull off the build, the shape is just horrible. They look nothing like any prototype. On my Cruizer I used one of Caldercraft's nice resin boats. I was painting it anyway, and it detailed up very nicely. Good luck with that ME boat.
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- ships lifeboat
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I do it that way. Especially helpful on the rock-hard plywood Model Expo uses. Do most of it before you install them on the false keel and finish with sanding blocks once installed.
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- first model
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Retrofitting back to WW II would be pretty tough, depending upon what is in the PE set. You're missing all of the 40mm and 20mm guns, as well as eight of the 5" guns. The antenna/radar array/masting will all be different too. There are many other smaller details that will matter as well, such as removal of the Tomahak and Harpoon luanchers, the rear flight deck vs. catapults for the Kingfishers in WW II,, ships boats etc... I'd personally wait to find a set that would work on the modern NJ. The Pontos set does look amazing. It wasn't around when I built the kit. I know it's a lot for what you get but the Gold Medal set is good and is available, and you're only out $20 at this point...
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Every Model Shipways kit I've built has had very tight fitting bulkheads, so nothing unusual there. Good work so far.
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I'm almost exclusively an acrylic guy myself, odor/VOCs being the reason. I still have some Floquil primer I use now and then, but let it dry at least ten days before anything goes over it. Dry to the touch means nothing with lacquer; you have to wait until there is no residual odor. Although I usually mostly Vallejo for flat, if I want a super dead flat finish I will use Testor's Dullcoat lacquer as my final finish, even over acrylics. It does work, but the only way to apply it safely that I have found is super light airbrush mist coats. I still generally try to avoid mixing systems and really find that there is generally nothing I can't do with just acrylics. For example, Model Masters acrylics come in a wide color range and availability, how ever their adhesion to bare styrene is abysmal. I've been burnt numerous times by them over the years, and now will only use them over primed plastic. For primer though I find I don't need anything more than whatever random light gray Tamiya acrylic I have handy. I've never had any paint come off with tape when doing that. Good luck OC.
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I can't recommend Granado enough Thomas. The Caldercraft kit is nice, with plenty of upgrade opportunities. It's a great looking model when finished, of something a bit different from the usual.
- 421 replies
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It's not you on the chainplates. I had to scratch build all the links for them on my Cruiser. If you place them at the correct angles the kit ones, all being the same length, won't work.
- 102 replies
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Quite possible, which would be the reverse of the Mustang, which has the red outboard. Hard to tell from the photo above. The foreground aircraft "VV" clearly shows a lighter color outboard of the (likely) red. It could be RAF Sand or it could be yellow. The port wing has the Dark Earth right up to the stripe forward of the aileron, but a hard cut-off and none outboard. I wonder... Sand and yellow would look very similar in black and white. This page shows all the variations: http://www.wwiiaircraftperformance.org/31st/31planes.html Here's the Mustang with the red outboard of the yellow.
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Kevin, The 31st Fighter Group had red and yellow ID bands on the outboard area of the wings certainly on their Mustangs. I've seen one picture with the Spitfire showing just the red (may have been colorized) and a few more with just the yellow. Most photos are of course black and white. Here's a picture showing the stripes in b&w. To me that doesn't look like it could possibly be yellow; too dark.
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